50ohm traces?

So I want to have a oscilator driving a buffer/fanout IC to drive the SMB connections out to other components. 24.576MHz so not GHz but the design sheet recommends a trace designed for 50ohm impedance.

Do i simply layout and then adjust the thickness of the trace based on a calculation to adjust the trace width based on weight, thickness and length?

The only other way is to connect with a resistor in the way rather than trace (tune the wave guide?).

7119932F-0543-466D-BA4F-92A18AF750A3.jpeg

Newby question: What is grid current and how do I measure it?

Reading here I here people speak of this thing called "grid current". What is it? I understand its current and varies based on ohms law like any other current. It must be very small as the grid basically floats in the space charge right? It has no resistor across it to draw current. Maybe if a tube is gassy that might be like a resistor that would cause the grid to draw current?

Also on the breadboard how do I measure such a small thing as grid current without having the measuring instruments itself throw it all off? Certainly the sense resistor method wont work by measuring the voltage drop across a grid stopper, seems like it would be an impractical way to measure it, the resistor would have to have ultra-precision right? I have this 100 uA full scale analog microammeter, in bygone days would people measure grid current by simply hooking a microammeter in series with the grid? If so, should it be hooked up on the input or output side of the grid stopper? If so, what polarity to hook it up? If so, should I maybe pick up a 50 uA full scale microammeter for better accuracy? If so, Should I pick up a center needle 50 uA meter so I dont have to consider the polarity hooking it up?

If these are too-many stupid questions please set me straight on the practicalities of measuring grid current 🙂


100 uA Meter.jpg

Software DSP

Hello! I am trying to make a software DSP for WAVE PCM sound format (16 bit). The DSP will have the following functionality - change the signal level, add delays and change the frequency. I first started by changing the level by multiplying the bytes with constant, but that didn't work correctly. Here is a picture of what happened:



Update: I find the solution, i was using wrong type variables.

Regards!

Boston HD7 (HD5?) repair or cabinet salvaging

Hi,

Background
I've been given a pair of Boston HD7 in a not very decent condition. Tweeters (and maybe woofers) had been changed, don't know about the crossovers. See pics. Sounds better than expected but highs are metallic and sibilance + hissing are very prominent. Also not much bass (that might be already the case when new, since it's a small woofer). It is a sealed cabinet, external measurements are (aprox) W225 H 355 D 180 mm which is weird because it doesn't match the specs of the HD7 but the HD5. Thus the ? in the title.

Question
What can I do with these?
  1. Change drivers and XO. In that case, could I have some suggestions? I live in Europe (no Parts Express).
  2. Get rid of everything and get a new set of speakers, it will be difficult to find drivers for that "small" sealed enclosure
  3. Other
Thank you for any help
Sergi


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Various JBL professional horns

I have to sell various Jbl professional series horns:
n.1 Jbl 1217-1290 €.50
n.2 Jbl L91 lens €.400
n.2 Jbl 2329 adapters €.150
n.1 Jbl 2330 adapter €.50
n.1 Jbl 2365 €.90
Prices doesn't include shipping. Payment through Paypal

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Custom Built Speaker Cabinets

I built these cabinets to be used with Eminence 10" coax driver, BETA-10CX with Eminence F-110m-8 compression tweeter......But could be used with many other 10" woofers and cut in a separate tweeter. The cabinets have built in, two way crossover, PRV Passive Crossover !DF1800H / 1800hz with full controlls on back of cabinet. Extremely heavy construction, prewired with OFC wire. Can not ship. Must pick up south of Boston Massachusetts. $100 for the pair.......see them here: contact me at... rvb100 at comcast dot net Roy

https://public.fotki.com/Rbertalotto/hifi-stereo-stuff/10-custom-cabinet/

Searching for the best EMI/DC filter

Hello, im wondering if some of you guys compared EMI / DC Filters and can suggest some, im trying to build a diy power distributor for relatively cheap (but still trying to make it "high-end" in terms of components and filters)

i found these two which look quite High End and im wondering what "experts" think about it
https://www.thel-audioworld.de/module/Netzfilter/Netzfilter.htm
https://775mv.com/product/power-emi-filter-for-audio-12a/

also i have a question:
is it worthwhile to put 1 central DC Filter and 1 EMI Filter for each socket (and between each emi filter a ferrite choke) or would it be enough to make for example one "Rail" for analogue and one "Rail" for digital devices?

Bruno Putzey balanced pre pcbs full set, smd components pre solderdd

FS a full set of Bruno Putzey balanced pre pcbs all smd components pre soldered. Includes hypex regulators

Group buy and information in this thread

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/bruno-putzeys-balanced-preamp-group-buy.279981/

£80 plus shipping anywhere in the world

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Negative resistance better than current source for MOSFET follower amp?

Often in a source follower amp cct you put in a constant current cct to pull the signal the other half of the cycle. If the amp is driving into an open circuit "load" the output mosfet is very happy because the drain current stays constant for the whole of the cycle and so the source voltage tracks the gate voltage almost perfectly. Now if we attach (for simplicity) a resistive load then the load current varies durning the cycle and so the mosfet introduces some distortion because the now varying drain current means the source voltage doesn't perfectly follow the gate signal voltage any more.

Would it not be better to make the constant current circuit instead a negative resistance circuit (not very much difference) so that for example, as the signal swings positive and the load current is increasing the CC cct is decreasing at the same rate? So make the CC cct negative 8 ohms. That is, for every 8 volts increase across it make it decrease it's current by 1 amp and vice versa. This way the output fet sees a more or less constant current during the cycle and distortion would be very low. As the fet Vds reduces on signal peaks and it's ability to pull current is reducing, the negative resistance cct is easing up as well instead of holding on tight for no good reason. Of course, if all this was applied to a real world loudspeaker load, the wheels might fall off the whole idea. I don't know. What do you think?

GP.

For Sale THE WIRE Modules SE-SE, BAL-BAL, PSUs + SOA-2.V3 + extra parts

1x THE WIRE PSU 15V 15V
50.-€

1x THE WIRE PSU 12V 12V
50.-€

1x THE WIRE SE-SE (gain = 1)
40.-€


2x THE WIRE BAL-BAL (gain = 1)
50.-€ each

Some SMD resistors to change output voltage of PSU
105k 15x
162k 5x
1.24M 6x
1.5M 3x
If sold as a whole, the resistors are included

1x SOA-2.V3
A balancing amplifier with gain as an ideal addition to the BAL-BAL module.
https://funk-tonstudiotechnik.de/SOA-2.V3-neu.pdf
The document is only available in German.
50.-€

The above preferably as a complete package with discount.


16x LME49600
bunch only
45.-€

7x TPS7A33 regulator
bunch only
35.-€


All prices plus shipping from Germany

Regards Martin

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For Sale Esotar 2 & scanspeak tweeters

A pair Dynaudio Esotar 2 from C2, clean and mount round faceplate, 110mm Dia. - 800 USD + ship
Few pairs of Scanspeak OEM sharp nose tweeter, up to 40khz , 104mm , 4 ohms ,25w -155 usd pair include ship to general area

Paypal only.

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effect of power supply / ground loss on amplifier

Hi folks,

I like to discuss with you what happens to an amplifier in case either the positive or the negative power supply is lost or the ground is disconnected.

I recently figured out that my amplifier evaporates the magic smoke in case the negative power supply is disconnected and this is why I start the discussion.
After spending some time at the bench doing an autopsy, I went back to circuit simulation in order to figure out the root cause for some components destruction. I observed that once any power supply gets lost, my amplifier no longer works at all and operating points shift so that components get destroyed.

I don't like to bore you with my specific amplifier, but like to discuss amplifiers in general.
I need you to get my thinking straight, which went in confusing loops throughout the weekend.

Actually an audio amplifier is just a huge op-amp. Many op-amps support single supply operation and I believe an audio amplifier should support this, too. At least not burn down in case it happens (like a fuse blows). My expectation would be that ideally the output DC offset is half of the supply voltage and the signal is reproduced around this offset.

It believe it should be avoided that any unconnected power supply input is undefined floating around.
So my first idea was to connect diodes to ground so that there will be a path for the current (see ordinary diodes in the schematic).
This probably is a good idea.
In case either power supply gets lost, it will be clamped to a diode drop above or below ground.

Also, a pair of resistors in parallel to the diodes form a high impedance virtual ground in case of ground loss. May be good, too. However, this virtual ground would be a diode drop away from one of the power supplies in case of loss of the opposite power supply.

During the investigation I found out that in my amplifier all circuit blocks (CCS and current mirror) defining DC points are no longer functional once any supply or ground is lost.
This is partly because I was lazy connecting references to ground because having a ground plane makes this easy (case A in the schematic). bad idea obviously.

Most designers are using connection scheme B, which is independent of ground - far better than what I did.

Scheme C is also interesting, but has the disadvantage that power dissipation is doubled and components like transistors need to withstand twice the voltage.
However, I found out that this scheme is beneficial in some cases where scheme B would not work. It makes operation more independent of each other.

My observation so far is that some circuits may behave in a very unforeseen way.
The diodes avoiding floating supplies seem helpful, but still some circuits behave strangely.
For example the current mirror with EF helper transistor behaves strangely in my amp with only one power supply. This is having to do with the helper transistor. A plain CM or Wilson CM instead works well.
Also, the cascodes of the CCS no longer work as cascodes, but become diodes instead sometimes and all kind of other freaky things going on.

What do you think?
Do you consider power supply or ground disconnection in your designs?
How do you handle this?
What do you think about my observations and ideas?

Here is the example schematic showing some CCS I use to help me thinking:
power_supply_loss.png

LM1875 Amplifier - Change in Component values.

Hi I am building LM1875 amplifier, Transformer Will be 18-0-18V and source CD Player (Occassional Phono Pre). I understand lm1875 IC Datasheet has standard values for broad application. But I wanted to know in Chipamp.com BrianGT schematic (See pic attached) why values of
1) C4 and C6 values are 0.1uf and 47 uf instead of standard 100uf and 100uf*
2) Zobel network R5 and C7 are 2.7ohms and 0.1uf instead of 1 ohm and 0.22uf **
3) feedback resistor R4 is 22k instead of standard 20k.

*Powersupply will probably be with snubber capacitors and MUR860 diodes. Do suggest what type of capacitor will be good.
**my speaker wires will be short and speakers are not decided. Probably wideband.

power supply schematic also attached.
Thanks and regards

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Effect of harmonics' phase on perceived sound

Hi,

reading documents by Nelson Pass I've seen that most of the people like a negative phase for the 2nd harmonic, explaining it with the fact that it will counteract the inertia of the speaker, but... what about the phase of other harmonics? Need to be as close as possible to zero?

Anyone has direct experience on it or literature to link/attach?

Thank you in advance
Roberto

Hypex Modules NC502MP 2x350W + NC500MP 2x250W brand new.

Hi,

Having abandoned a multi-channel amplifier project, I am selling my Hypex Ncore Module NC502MP


Like new, tested with my DY Project.

  • Free Cables set
  • Shipment to Europe only


Hypex NCore NC502MP twin Channel Module
PSU SMPS integradted 1200W
Nord Switchable RCA-XLR input board
Auto sensing 100-240V mains input operation
0.5W standby operation
1.5KW Main PSU
47K Ohms Input Impedance, low output impedance
THD 0.0018%
S/N Ratio 116dB
26dB Voltage Gain
1X1200W 8 ohms bridged
2 x 350W 8 Ohms
2 x 500W 4 Ohms
2 x 450W 2 Ohms
Fully loaded flat frequency response
92% efficient

Silent transformers for use in preamp

Hello,

I currently have 4 Hammond 229C30 pcb transformers used in the PSU of the line amp. When the preamp is turned on, one can clearly hear the transformers humming.
- These transformers are 24VA each, load for each xfmr is about 10VA.
- See picture of how the assembly looks like. Bottom PCB is mounted to preamp chasssis used damped (rubber) distance holders.
- Downstream of the preamp is a mains filter with DC-blocker installed.

I'm looking for better alternatives than the Hammond 229 series. I've read on this forum that also other users of these 229 series experience mechanical humm.

Dual bobbin is proposed to be ideal in low power equipment, where toroidal's are not due to too good coupling between primary and secundary.

1. Block Low profile - FL series : https://www.block.eu/en_EN/products/transformers/pcb-transformers/
2. Toroidy Supreme audio toroidal: https://sklep.toroidy.pl/en_US/c/Toroidal-transformers-SUPREME-AUDIO-GRADE-V2/99
3. ??? other, better ideas?

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How to find any post by only the post number?

The new platform doesn't allow search just by the post #.
I have many posts (links) from the old platform saved by the post #, like:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1206887#post1206887
The links to these posts do not work:
1667578674582.png




Doing this through the "Advanced Search" is very laborious and not always productive. I think there must be an easy way...

DIY Servo driven Linear tonearm

I have been experimenting with LT tonearms over the past 6-8 months, and have built 2 different LTA's with 4 different carriages. During this process I have learnt that a short stiff carriage/armwand is what is needed.

LTA 1 - Built as a proof of concept. This was about as good as my reference arm a Technics EPA100. Bass response was better and noise floor slightly lower. It struggled with stock bearings to track the Stanton 881s so I increased the diameter of the wheels which made a huge difference. Changed to my Technics EPC205mk2 with a Jico SAS.

LTA 2 - This is a total rip off of the Clear Audio TT1 and Niffy's carriage (the FROG). What this does amazingly is lower LP surface noise to levels I have never experienced, detail and dynamics are fabulous. Its issue is tracking off centre pressings where the voice has a lot of energy, I can hear distortion in each channel as the carriage moves back and forth. I built another carriage this time 20g lighter. This new carriage still has distortion on very heavily modulated tracks on the test LP, but I haven't heard it on music yet. It sounds great, but does have higher surface noise.


The reason I started this thread is I am considering building a motor driven LTA and I'm looking for others thoughts and ideas.

Goal is to duplicate LTA 2's FROG performance without the distortion tracking off centre pressings. Is this even possible

First decision is either mechanical servo like the Rabco or use an Adrino robotic controller?

Arm will be split effective mass like the Dynavector DV505. Main arm to be large and rigid with horizontal bearing and secondary arm on the end with vertical pivot.

Technics SL1200 bearings can be used for both pivots.

Carriage will run on 2x 8m linear rails in brass/bronze bushes.

Drive will be toothed belt driven by O rings

Drive motor 12V geared run at lower voltage to keep noise low

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Rockford Fosgate Punch 45HD

I have more broken amps than working amps so it's time to try to fix them. I think this one might be the easiest to fix.

I can't remember what the symptoms were but it started obviously not sounding right. When I picked it up I heard a rattle. I opened it and a tiny cap was loose.

Anyway, on this small board these tiny caps (circled in red) have come off (this isn't my pic but I took it and highlighted the caps, as they are not there on mine).

The contact points on the board don't even look metal. I'm looking for guidance before I try anything because I don't want to screw this up. Can I just try to solder the caps back on? I'm not sure I can even do it, it's so tight in there. Thanks for any input you may have. I'd like to save this amp, if possible.

I went and took a pic of mine and attached it also.

edit: Just ran across a video and learned some new information. That board is the HBPIM board. Any idea where I could get a replacement of that?

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JBL E145 3-way with Audax and "help" up to 100 hz

Have a few pairs of old nice JBL laying around, 2215h, 2235h and E-145.

Also last year have build 6 peerlees xxls 830847 16 ohm in ca 100 liter each in paralel ( 3 each side), now is my stereo set-up.
Thinking of use the JBL E145 as mid-bass from 100-600 hz, and Audax HM130Z0 and Viawave SRT-7 as MTM.

Around 96 dB sensitivity.

Here is my xover in XSIM, anyone seeing something wrong or maby have a easyer way building the xover ?
JBL project.png


Best regards Jawen

48pcs Miller & Kreisel 17500 8Ω silk dome tweeters

I bought these probably 15 years ago for a line array project that never happened. Don't even remember what I paid for them. I think they were "working pulls", but they all look new except for some with misshapen gaskets on the back that just need massaging.

Some of these have recently sold on ebay for $26 a pair + postage. I don't want anything near that for them.

Make me an offer for the whole lot, US only.

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For Sale JVC RC-EZ51 (Shigaclone Donor) Complete with Remote - UK collection

A spare RC-EZ51 I did not use.
It was bought second-hand so has a few scrapes, but I just gave it a spin and all appears to be working (except cassette!) including the remote.

I don't want to extract the CD player parts as I did this to a previous one & it stopped working for some reason!

Asking a modest £15 for this, so someone local (Northants area) to collect would be ideal.

JVC RC-EZ51_Img1.jpg

FS SE 6.1K OPT Transformer Monolith Magnetics S15 new pair! perfect for tubes 45,PX4,2A3,AD1...

hi all, Selling the following:

- pair of SE 6.1K OPT Transformer Monolith Magnetics S15. Both transformers are heavy duty and new.

Version: Hi-B grain-oriented FeSi dual C-core, air gap for 55mA. perfect for tubes like 45,PX4,2A3,AD1....

Datasheet: https://www.monolithmagnetics.com/s...70 single ended output transformer prelim.pdf

Items are located in Germany and will ship in EU.

--850€-- shipping included

payment via paypal (pay for friends) or bank transfer

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Ian Canada Station PI with Power Management

Hello everyone,

I am currently running a Raspberry Pi with a Stereo Audiophonics ES 9038 DAC. The power comes from an Audiophonics power supply and is routed to the Raspberry via an Audiophonics power management module. This makes it possible to safely switch on and shut down the Raspberry like an ATX switch on a PC. The music is output to the speakers via a Marantz SR 8015 (dual mono). Now I would like to build a new device and have ordered the parts described in the picture. The power management module controls the raspberry via the GPIO pins 04, 17 and 22. Is it possible to do this when the raspberry is installed on the station Pi, e.g. via the GPIO bar J2 of the FifoPI.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Greetings from Bonn, Germany

Bodenplatte 2-page-001 (2).jpg

Shunt regulator design: shunt VS load current rule of thump

Hello,

Don't seem to find much info on this.

I'm currently using shunt regulators (in combination with serie regulators) as PSU for my preamp. As the dissipation is too high for me to feel comfortable I was wondering to maybe leave this out. According to LTspice, it has no added value in suppresion below 1Khz.
Shunt current is 75ma, load current is 160mA (with max ripple of 2mA).

As I have 4 of these shunt regulators, it saves me more than 8W on dissipation.

What is a good rule of thump of the factor between shunt and load current, to have decent added value of the shunt regulator?

Any references to read?

Thanks
Ben

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What happens when you run a driver at it’s resonance frequency

So can people please advise on the implications of running a driver be it woofer or mid or tweeter or compression driver at its resonant frequency


Just trying to learn further and understand so a few questions please

A driver Driven at its resonant frequency give or take +/-

1 Can or will damage be expected provided it receives low voltage and not overdriven in excess

2 if the driver been driven encounters higher dB feedback will an amplifier compensate re damping..?.

3 same question as number 1 and number 2 ..but if it was a compression driver would things be different as compression drivers can go low but with higher sensitivity ie 106db vs 85db etc

So in a nutshell can a sustained frequency be amplified without redress.

There’s got to be advantages or disadvantages of doing this thoughts please

4 Can the resonant frequency of any driver be found without parameters ie frequency sweep multimeter

YAMAHA B1 AMP 2SK77

HEY I got one of thoses old/rare YAMAHA B1 stereo natural sound amplifiers that I may want to get rid of. Of course the red overprotection light comes on and no sound comes out but the METERS sure are pretty (yes the UC-1 unit). It handled a lot of great gigs at all the big places in Hollywood back in the 70's....sound incredible and VERY QUITE when it comes to noise.
I'm about to take it over to the local YAMAHA wiz and see if he can find the problem or at least tell me if the VFETS ARE good.
Any help out there?

Something cool for Raspberry Pi/ODROID: I2S/DSD isolator HAT with native DSD decoder

IsolatorPi,something cool for Raspberry Pi/ODROID: I2S/DSD isolator with DoP decoder

I designed a Raspberry Pi I2S adapter a couple of month ago and shared many PCBs for free with this DIY community. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...mate-weapon-fight-jitter-371.html#post4429205
It was really nice. Community members and I were very happy with it. But I’m still worried about sharing noisy PC ground with audio system.

Another thing is that I'm very interested in playing native DSD music through Raspberry Pi. I’ve heard that the latest version of MPD already has native DSD support. But after downloading the software, I was very disappointed to find that the native DSD is only supported over USB interface. This has also been confirmed by Tim. It means the native DSD feature works only with a USB streamer for now. However that's not the way I use a PRi.

And the third thing is the ODROID. I bought a C1+ because a friend of mine recommended. It has a dedicated I2S port (which is incompatible with PRi). It also runs faster than RPi. I'm quite happy with it. The only issue is that none of the RPi audio gears will work with ODROID because of that I2S port.

So I came up with a new idea: An I2S/DSD isolator HAT with optional native DSD decoder for Raspberry Pi and ODROID.

It will have following functions:

1. To isolate ground and all other signals between RPi/ODROID and audio system.

2. Compatible with both RPi and OROID.

3. Supports native DSD playback by plugging in an optional DSD decoder daughter board. The daughter board will convert DoP stream back into native DSD stream bit-perfect at real-time. In this case, all current SD image such as Volumio, MoodeAudio, RuneAudio, and most others, will have native DSD play-back features.

4. Raspberry Pi DACs and other audio gears will work with ODROID (may need software support for configuration).

5. Has isolated I2C control bus for RPi DACs, as well as optional I2C EEPROM ID bus. It will work very well with all RPi DACs and other audio gears by flowing Raspberry Pi HAT design specification.

Since I'm working on multi-channel I2S/DSD FIFO PCB, hopefully I can place a bulk order.

Here is the block diagram. I will be finishing up this project soon.

Ian

IsolatorPiBlockDiagram
by Ian, on Flickr

A very simple "RONIN" amplifier

I want to offer you such an amplifier As a good replacement for the 3886 and 7293 microchips, which have become much more expensive. instead of 240/9240, you can use a very cheap 510/9510. In a differential cascade with a different correction, bipolar transistors can also be used, as cheaper and more accessible. In general, the spice model is below, pdf with a diagram and a *.Ley for ordering or reworking for yourself.
PS ^ I really want to know your opinion, it is dear to me.

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Mismatch between trafos- acceptable?

So i built a gainclone monoblocks with same exact everything between two units but one channel was humming through the speaker while the other was dead quiet. It turned out to be magnetic coupling of the trafo which i was able to solve by slowly rotating the trafo and my ear to the speaker until the hum went away. The trafos are vigortronix todoidal.
Heres where my gripe starts. As a test i also began rotating the trafo on the other channel and it too had a position where it could induce hum to the amp. But that position differs between trafos by about 40 degrees! Which means the windings between the two units are uneven, even tho they are of the same model and was bought together.

Are such deviations in their windings acceptable?

Displayport out to HDMI in for multichannel audio

Hi there,

So far I have been experimenting using EqAPO as a multichannel loudspeaker crossover on a laptop with HDMI out to a Marantz 7.1 Receiver with HDMI in. The laptop is aging, and could fall apart any day now. It looks asif more PC's and laptops use Displayport out instead of HDMI.
Could Displayport out also be used for 7.1 -filtered- audio channels out, or do I need some convertor?

Goldmund Studietto with T5 arm manual on hifiengine

Someone can download the manual for the Golmund Studietto with T5 arm for me on vinylengine please ?
I can no longer access my account or open another one on their site.
I have just recovered this vinyl turntable literally in pieces that a former customer bought on the internet and the seller sent the turntable as is without clamping it or securing it, so I will try to rebuild it, starting with the arm and the belt.
thank you in advance

A digital audio stream feeding 'almost' directly a Class-D driver & output stage?

Note to Readers: (added on the 31st, Oct 2022)
Please note, this thread should be considered as a discussion only. As it evolved it cannot give working ideas as to how to implement completely digital drives for Class-D.
--------------------------------------------

I do not know whether someone has already done this, but logically and technically, it seems possible.

Suppost a digital stream similar to that used to drive DACs is fed to an algorithm running on a microcontroller or small processor. The algorithm would use extrapolation to calculate the value of the instantaneous voltage at points which are not covered by the data from the stream. These calculated values/data would then be used to calculate the pulse width to feed the driver of the output stage. This would still result in an audio output, but without a DAC.

Learning Bookshelf+Subwoofer Pros and cons ?

Hi all,
comparatively ready 3 way speaker choices are limited (either expensive or one has to buy floorstander) So I was wondering...
1) what are technical disadvantages of having a bookshelf with subwoofer ?
2) If bookshelf measurements are available, can a passive crossover be made to match that bookshelf speaker with DIY passive subwoofer ?
3) (vague question) I know it depends on driver, speaker design and personal volume level preference, but what is very broad consensus on a typical 8 inch driver low end extension and levels achievable ?
thanks and regards.

MMats Hifi-6150D blown MOSFETs

Hello, I'm new here and this is the first amp I will try to fix. I have SMD soldering and development experience but this is my first time working on an amplifier. Here we have an MMats 6150D, it was working fine before but it let the magic smoke at random once. I opened it up and noticed this:

Clearly, a MOSFET died
SYdw0EG.jpg


I took out the clamps and noticed that 80% of the MOSFETS cracked or burnt on this rank of fets alone, all the other MOSFETS around the amp seem fine.
GIfR4rc.jpg


I cleaned out the smoke residue and noticed two resistors blew, I checked the diodes and they test out fine still. I also noticed the temperature sensor (?) on the upper left has its leads burnt, but I think that is due to the MOSFET nearby producing heat.
J2yal8P.jpg


So now to gather parts, as I understand when a MOSFET gives out, it takes its driver IC with it but I don't know which one is it
wi33D9I.jpg

QsmEARdl.jpg

QOviYvol.jpg

b2qEnYkl.jpg

ndI3GCjl.jpg

Yc1O2ojl.jpg


Questions:
  1. What's the best MOSFET to use? burnt ones are really faded out but I managed to make out "top line: IRF3205, middle line: I&R P12J, bottom line: 40 CZ"
  2. What resistors should I use? -markings have been burned out, the only clue I have is a nearby one that is the same physical size with margins "10RD" (or 10R0), everyother resistor is a smaller in physical size.
  3. What driver IC can I use?
  4. Anything else I'm missing before I go out and buy parts?
I want to try and fix this myself as MMats charges $250 to get this done, but if i must I will.

Thanks!

Troubleshooting PSB Gold i “quad amping”…

I finished to build 2 pairs of monoblocks (Dynaco MK3s from scratch with VTA boards). The amps do sound great! But I ran into an issue when attempting to biamp each speakers: i removed the jumpers between the speakers posts and wired one monoblock to the tweeter/mids and another one to the woofer. Turned the first one on, all good. But when I turned on the other connected to the woofer, I got a squeal which moves up in pitch as more current reach the output tubes.

Same thing happened with the other speaker. I triple checked everything, it’s not coming from the amps or the speaker cables. With only one amp connected to the woofer (nothing connected to the mid/tweeter), same result. If I put the jumper back on between the posts, everything is fine.

I did test the speakers with the jumper removed and no wires attached: on the woofer posts, I read 4 or 5 ohms and there is continuity while I can’t get a reading between the m/t posts (and there is no continuity). If I wire an amp to the m/t posts, then (and only then) I get a reading of 4 or 5 ohms. So I guess the issue is in the crossover… any idea what it could be and how to fix it? I found some threads online where people did biamp these speakers, so I guess it’s possible But since I’m using monoblocks, could this be the problem?

Some suggestions would be much appreciated!

Horns and waveguides 101

I saw a number of recent threads asking some pretty fundamental questions about horns and waveguides and how the various types differ.

The following is my attempt to provide some guidance.

There are fundamentally SIX types of horns that you can use, and they all have their pro’s and con’s.


1) VERY old school symmetrical round or square exponential/hypex horns. Examples of these would be the early WE ones and the ones still used in those Japanese Goto, Ale, etc. Installations. These horns (i) load the drivers well down to the horn’s cutoff, and (ii) equalize the compression driver’s natural high-frequency mass-induced roll-off at the high frequencies, resulting in pretty flat on axis, but they beam a lot. They also lead to some pretty serious reflections at the mouth, unless they are either used only above 2-3x cutoff, and/or are improved with some suitable additional round-over at the mouth. The axi-symmetric JMLC horns fall into this camp, and they are arguably the best at addressing the mouth reflection issue.

2) Old school exponential/hypex radial horns. Examples of these would be the old Altec “sectoral” horns, like the 511 and 811, or the Fostex radials (H420, H320, H220, H400, H300, etc.). These still achieve the same (i) and (ii) feats above, but they manage to also yield almost constant directivity on the Horizontal plane over much of their bandwidth (at the expense of vertical coverage, which is monotonically decreasing and even narrower overall). The more “classic” radials also have some issues with internal reflections and diffraction, because of the abrupt profile discontinuity at the throat. But, these latter issues can be mitigated by clever design improvements, as done in the Yuichi Arai horns, as well as in several other similar Japanese wooden horns like those by Yamamoto, Ta-On, GT Sound, etc. I PERSONALLY CONSIDER THESE TO BE THE BEST OVERALL COMPROMISE FOR HOME HI-FI, but of course I’m aware that it’s all a matter of picking one’s favourite trade-offs, and that others may disagree, and for very valid reasons.

3) Tractrix horns. These tend to be very similar to n. 1), but with reduced mouth reflections, and poorer driver loading towards the lower end of their bandwidth. The main problem I have with these is that the theory on which they are based is very shaky. In simple terms, the tractrix profile “looks” nice but there is no sound physical justification for it whatsoever. So I don’t consider it a very credible contender, especially given that the JMLC horns (see 1) tend to solve the same issues and offer improved loading.

4) Conical horns. These are essentially simple “funnels” with straight walls that simply constrain the driver’s radiation into a solid angle of choice. There are two BIG problems with them, though: (i) they do NOT load the drivers effectively at all, resulting in very poor low frequency extension even in the case of very large horns, and (ii) they present the worst possible abrupt discontinuities at the throat and at the mouth, resulting in awful reflections and diffraction. In other words, in my humble opinion, why bother?

5) Modern “constant directivity” horns. JBL and Altec were the first to develop these in the 70s/early 80s, with the aim of ensuring a more homogenous coverage of the venues served by PA systems in Pro sound applications. The main problem with these early efforts was that the profile was decomposed into two sections: a very short expo/hypex throat section, expanding in only one dimension, and feeding a second conical section through a diffraction slot. While this achieved the desired constant directivity, while also giving marginally better loading than a simple conical horn, there were serious drawbacks in terms of (i) diffraction, and (ii) still poor loading nonetheless. The JBL 2385 is a typical example of these horns. All the later JBL horns use in their home products such as the K2 S9800, S9900, etc. still essentially belong to this camp, but they backtracked a little on the diffraction slot, smoothening it to reduce the severity of the effect, and in so doing also giving up a bit of directivity control...

6) Even more modern “constant directivity” waveguides. These are the result of a radical re-thinking of the purpose of having horns in the first place. Basically, their rationale is that today power is cheap and we don’t really need efficiency and loading any more; all we should aim for is directivity control, AND the least possible amounts of diffraction. The best examples of these are Earl Geddes’ OS waveguides. They are essentially conical over most of their expansion, but with an ideal, mathematically-derived throat section that transitions from the planar wavefronts at the compression driver exit to the spherical wavefronts within the conical part of the waveguide. Loading is still very poor, but at least they are (very) good at something, I.e. diffraction minimization. To me, if you buy into the argument that directivity control is essentially all that matters, these are a much better proposition than the “constant directivity” designs at point 5) above.

So, there you have it. As I said many times already... pick your poison! ��

Marco

Tubes selection for SET output

I probably want to try to build a vacuum tube amplifier in nearby future. Let it be a medium powered (15-20W) SET amp. A significant part of existing designs is based on something like 300B or 2A3 which are just too expensive. I live in Eastern Europe where Soviet made tubes are readily available so I can search there. 6c33c is the obvious option. But what about more "classic" tubes like direct heated triodes? There is GM70 which is reasonably priced too but it means spending more on transformers. What other options do I have? With transistors for comparison it's quite simple, you have catalogs with parameters to choose from. Also they are more or less similar to each other in the same power handling group (especially BJTs and to a lesser degree FETs). But tubes... I'm just getting lost.

Magnat Traxx 660 no sound

I have this old amplifier that needed a bit of work.
The sound output was a bit crunchy on one channel and there was a of lot cold solder joints.
I decided to refresh it and make it reliable for everyday use so I resoldered cold joints and replaced all electrolyte capacitors

The problem is that the amp after resoldering does not play. There is no protection led, but I think it's in protection mode.
After that I replaced
- TL494
- TL072 (instead of ba4558)
- IRFZ44 as per schematic instead of 50n06 that were originally on the board
- rectifiers
- TIP41 and 42
Both BA4558N are ok, sound goes to the R153. After I think that is grounded as there is 1.12v on the pin 1 of the U1 optocoupler.
There is 1.8v measured between the supply ground and signal ground.
Square wave is ok, but the rail voltages are a different: +33.3v and -29.5v. 16v voltages are +16.6 are -13.6v.
Input voltage is 12v.
Output transistors are ok, 1n4148 diodes are ok. I checked many resistors and they are within the spec. There is no voltage on speaker terminals.

Here's the schematic diagram https://elektrotanya.com/magnat_traxx_660_sch.pdf/download.html

What should I do next?

What type of bypass caps for a DSP (adau1466)

Hi,

I study a PCB for a DSP adau1466 from Analog Device.

The datasheet proposes a layout implementation diagram as shown on page 200 of its datasheet. The layout diagram is attached.

A lot of capacitors are BYPASS caps and I would like to know what is the best type to use: MLCC ? Film (what type) ?

Thank you for your reply

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Amphion Bases DIY project

Hi, I am going to be making a pair of Amphion Bases type stereo subs (photo attached), to use with my Amphion One15s, and would like to ask you folks some questions:

1. I am going to be using Seas 10" drivers and passive radiators, there are to options, one with two layers (L26ROY) and one with four layers (L26RO4Y)
Which one would you recommend for this application?


2. I will probably be using two Hypex Fusionamps plate amps, going to choose between FA251 and FA501.
Which would you choose? is 250 watts enough for a single 10" in a large box, working all day with the subs behind the desk? or should I go for 500 watts? won´t need lots of SPL


3. Regarding Fusionamp DSP crossover, I want to integrate the One15s and the subs with the crossovers, but be able to bypass the subs and use the One15s in full range mode.
Is this easy to do with the software? I think you can´t control both amps at the same time, so it would be cumbersome to change the usb cable when going full range?


That´s all for now, thanks everybody!

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Genuine Toshiba 2sk170 BL - Matched Octet

TL,DR: matched octet of 2sk170 BL grade Transistors - € 50,- each octet + shipping costs - 30 slots available - GB closes on Sept. 30th. (or when 30 sets are gone) - items will be shipped between November and December

ships to U.S.A. and Canada using seaways, will take 30day plus, but is tracked, signed for and insured

Hey everyone,

the last group buy went pretty good, maybe too good because i did not have enough devices left after i shipped all the octets. Thats the main reason for the second round of this group buy. Some things will be different then last time. I will match 30 octets out of 600 devices, so matching will be tighter then before.

I will buy the stuff from the last known source for original Toshiba 2sk170 parts in sealed bags of 200 pieces in the whole wide world.
Buying in the US does come with some downsides. I will have to pay import tax and customs fees. Thats why the cost for a tight matched set of 8 transistors will be € 50,- plus shipping.

As I am located in Germany, shipping costs will be cheaper if you live in the EU rather then the US. I want to avoid shipping overseas due to corona troubles (US, NZ, AU) but i will do it at your own risk (international letter, tracked and signed for, no insurance possible, € 8,50).
Shipping costs for Europe are € 8,50 (DHL small parcel XS, tracked, signed for, insurance up to a worth of € 50,-)

I will buy three sealed bags of 200 transistors each and match them for Idss and Vp using this method.

I use to sort the values using a spreadsheet to get the best possible sets of matched jfets. I have some experience with this method and I know that it will produce reliable results.

When all 30 slots are gone I will ask you for payment. After payment i will order the transistors. It will take 10 to 14 days for them to reach me and some free weekends for me to match all those devices. After matching, all orders will be shipped as soon as possible.

You will get 2sk170 from the BL Range – so Idss could vary between 6 mA and 12 mA. But if you give me a hint which Idss range you need I will try to solve it.

Any questions: please ask.
Add your name to the group buy like this:

NAME QTY COUNTRY
AddiDub 1 Germany

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PS-x600 speed issue

Hello all, I recently got a Sony PS-x600 turntable.
Everything works except it has a lot of WOW ( unstable rotation speed) - it is very audible.
I checked the speed with my phone, and I got an average reading of 33,33 which is ok but the speed oscilates a lot.

I got the service manual and checked the quick measuring points, one being the speed sensor and the values are in limit ( around 30mV). I cleaned the speed adjustment pots and got no improvement. I measured all the caps around the power supply section and they are like new, I measured the diodes around the power section and they also read good.

What I find strange is that there should be +30V and -30V supplied to the motor control board, but I read -27V and +26V with the motor off. The +15V and -15V rail both measure 14,6V so I guess those 2 are ok.
But if I run the motor the +30V rail drops to around +22V with fluctuation and -30V rail drops to around -25V also with fluctuations - which I'm guessing is not ok and could cause the speed issue?

Also is it possible to measure the motor windings if they are ok?

Any help or ideas would be very welcome!

port area and driver Sd

There is something that I wish to understand.
The svs pb16 has 3 3.5" round ports which comes out to a cross area of 186.2cm^2
I don't know the sd of its 16" driver.
For a 15" driver like sw115-4 has an sd of 855 so the port area vs sd is 21%.
Would the svs pb16 chuffed at low frequency high spl? Would it need around 1/3? May be the 16" has a ridiculous sd?

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Alpair 10p vs MAOP-10

I now have my 10p enABL2 based Halcyon speakers working well and sounding pretty good. I do sense a bit of congestion when played loud in the upper end, which is dominated by the 10P. Mind you, they sound very good, and are pleasant to listen to. However, I wondering if the MAOP-10 or the metal 10m would solve my issues? I listen mostly to classical, Jazz, vocals, etc. No rock.

The extra cost of the MAOP-10 is not an issue as I have spent way more in the cabinets and crossovers (and the amp and dacs to drive them) then the costs of the original 10p driver by several times. I will have these speakers for a long time and am curious to know if I can squeeze the last bit of performance by the MAOP-10s. With the Halcyon Design, bass is not the issue as the bass duty it handled by a pair of SB acoustic woofers on summed transmission lines.

It is the mids and high end I hope to improve. I would appreciate any insight from anyone on the forum.

-david BTW

Buy or DIY PA style speakers to go with NX3000 & sub

1st thread so hello to all. Apologies in advance, i don't often post in forums so will try my best!

So as title, I want a pair of PA style speakers that will be mounted in two corners close to ceiling. They will be used for Karaoke, DJ sessions and small parties in a 62m3 room. I am hoping to make use of a spare NX3000 amp I have to power them and I also have a twin 10" DIY sub low passed @ 100hz, also powered by an NX3000. The sub is hooked up to my 5.1 Diamond 220 setup, Pioneer LX73 Receiver and does more than I need, for now!

Buy or DIY? Simpler to buy but from my experience always better and more satisfying to build.
Things to consider. Although no expert, i have basic wood working skills and tools such as, table saw, plunge saw, router etc and have already had a go at building 2 different sub boxes, so I feel comfortable enough to build myself and want to learn more anyway.

I've been looking over the "so you want to design your own speakers from scratch" thread and have taken notes on "determining basic needs". I will be honest a lot of it went over my head or may not apply to my situation. I am hoping that by answering them question here along with some notes, I could get some advice and recommendations.

Basic needs....
Space is not really an issue, the two corners are free to make use of, within reason of course.
How Loud? Based on the following i would say pretty loud lol. 1 : We already know what amp will be used, it is rated at 2 x 900w @ 4ohm or 2 x 1500w @ 2ohms so I will have plenty of power. 2 : They will be used in a party/dj environment and i already have a really good sub to back them up.

We listen to lots of fast paced dance music so need something that responds well. We will be using for karaoke (SM58) lol and listen to plenty of vocal music so we want something that's going to make vocals sound nice and bright. In this case i would say we were after something the opposite of flat speakers.

Boxes, as mentioned I will be building so no cost to consider other then materials, that I still have here and there 😉 They will be mounted and I need to work out how I am going to do that. One question here is do I need/want ports? From my understanding, loosely, a ported box take less power going down low vs sealed that requires more power but result is clearer bass tones. Although, seeing as I have a ported sub that's filling the room nicely and an amp with plenty of power ready, it makes me wonder if i am better off going with a sealed enclosure on this occasion as its more the clarity and detail i want from them anyway. Thoughts on this appreciated.

Tools, The one thing i may need here is "measuring equipment". I've got all the woodworking covered, I have a windows PC but what equipment do I need to start me off? I presume at the minimum a special microphone.

Crossover, At present I need to look into this a bit more. Designing on computer will be one thing but testing will be another. I am leaning towards passive crossover however.

Budget, 250 - 350 but maybe able to stretch a bit. This would be for speakers and crossover parts only. No labour cost and I'm not including the wood cost either, I have lots left over and its cheap for me around here.

Speaker type, 2 way and I'm thinking 12 to 15" driver unless 2 x smaller would be better for more detail in the midrange? I always see horns in PA speakers and this made my mind jump to them automatically. However I would appreciate any recommendations for my application, in the meantime I will be researching tweeter types as I have never, until now need to buy any.

Sorry if a long read guys 🙁 again I don't often post and have problems sometimes explaining myself.

I've looked over some really good guides and found some awesome material but unfortunately most of what I'm finding is related to 2 way or 3 way full range designs and mentions about adding a sub afterwards.
My situation is i have the sub covered first and i feel maybe wasting money and time buying speakers designed for sub 80hz and tuning the boxes as low as they go etc. When in fact the money and time maybe better spent!
I feel I don't know enough yet to make a better choice and the more I google around for drivers and start comparing spec/prices it all get a bit overwhelming tbh!

I am terrible with words and only hope that this makes sense. This is an ongoing project so I will be indeed researching as I go but appreciate any kind words you guys have to share 🙂

JLCPCB 3D Printing

Apparently JLCPCB has a 3D printing service now. Prices seem pretty low, and they're able to print some pretty big parts.

Only challenge is that when I try to upload the .STL file for the augerpro waveguide, the units are wrong with no obvious way to change it.

Anyone used this service or have an idea how to work around this? Their PCB fabrication is usually pretty painless and reliable, so I'm interested to see how their 3D printing capabilities are.

If it's cheap enough, this could be a huge deal.

Sansui AU-717

I have a Sansui AU-717 integrated that I bought new with paper route money in the mid-70’s (I’m 63 now). It’s in excellent condition and I still have the owners manual…wish I’d saved the box. The amp works perfectly but I suspect is overdue for caps/bias adjustment, cleaning, etc. The cover has never been off.

I do not have the knowledge or skill to attempt it myself. Looking for quality service recommendations ideally in the Atlanta area. I prefer not to ship it if possible. Appreciate any guidance.

-Mike (first post on DIY)
1EC0A572-DC27-47C3-B131-E8BF09A51C40.jpeg

Tips on how to create a chassis (sample image inside)

Thinking of something like this (see below)

But in my case
  • the front fascia is made of wood
  • the top, bottom and rear are made of aluminum plates
  • 2 heatsinks attached to an aluminum plate make up each of the side
  • L brackets to attach each piece to each other

Feedback? Perhaps you have a better idea?

thanks in advance

Screenshot_20220914-221830_AliExpress~2.jpg
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I don't know what to believe (Basta vs manuf data)

I'm trying to pick a bass driver for a "micro-Manzinita" and I can't make heads or tails of the data I'm getting from the manufacturer vs out of Basta. I'm looking at the Goldwood GW-212/4 (1.2 Qts, black on the charts) & 12PC-4 (~0.4 Qts, red on the charts).

Here's the manuf data overlaid (in a 10 cu ft box):
1666994582844.png


Here's Basta data in a big box:
1666994627392.png


And here's Basta data on the 0.5x0.5m open baffle I'm planning (I will high pass around 200Hz or so):
1666994757243.png


What am I missing about the manufacturer's data? I will prob just get the GW-212/4 and call it a day.

Altec 605B / Onken / Duelund

For sale:
A pair of Altec 605B speakers in Onken 360l cabinets with Duelund CAST crossover.

2x Altec 605B coaxiale drivers with AlNiCo magnets and Markus Klug wooden horns (original horns included). 97dB/1W/1m
2x Onken 360l cabinets in Nantex
2x crossovers with Duelund CAST capacitors and coils, Pathaudio resistors, ETI research speaker posts.
2x Duelund CAST inductor 2.2mH
2x Duelund CAST PP 20uF + 0,01uf silver bypass capacitor
2x Duelund CAST Copper 12uF
2x Duelund CAST Copper 1uF
4x PathAudio resistors All cabling (crossover+internal) Duelund DCA16GA

High efficient speaker set, that's equally at home in small and larger rooms.

SOLD

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