Speakers (Altec 604?) inside built-in cabinets?
- By streetcore
- Multi-Way
- 81 Replies
Hey everyone,
I moved back into my childhood home recently and I'm also getting back into audio after being away from it for a few years. My late father made some built-in cabinets with a fireplace in the living room as seen in the attached photo. Since my old man built them I don't want to alter them too much, but the cabinets and the position of the couch, which really can't go anywhere else, make speaker placement difficult.
As you can see in the photo, there are two large cupboards on both ends of the built-ins. The space inside is about 38" wide, 35" high, and 20" deep. So I've been wondering if I could put some speakers inside those cabinets, rather than on the floor in front like I'm doing now. I have a pair of JBL L166s now that I may experiment with, but I'm wondering if something even bigger might make better use of the space available.
I have a chance to buy some Altec Lansing 604-8k speakers in 620 cabinets at a reasonable price and I'm wondering if they might work. The 620 cabinets are too tall, but they would fit if I remove some trim around the cupboard doors. I'm also a pretty good woodworker and could easily build some smaller cabinets that would slide into the space available. I could replace the doors with custom grills too.
Does this sound like a good idea, or am I crazy for even thinking about it?
Any feedback would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Andy
A
I moved back into my childhood home recently and I'm also getting back into audio after being away from it for a few years. My late father made some built-in cabinets with a fireplace in the living room as seen in the attached photo. Since my old man built them I don't want to alter them too much, but the cabinets and the position of the couch, which really can't go anywhere else, make speaker placement difficult.
As you can see in the photo, there are two large cupboards on both ends of the built-ins. The space inside is about 38" wide, 35" high, and 20" deep. So I've been wondering if I could put some speakers inside those cabinets, rather than on the floor in front like I'm doing now. I have a pair of JBL L166s now that I may experiment with, but I'm wondering if something even bigger might make better use of the space available.
I have a chance to buy some Altec Lansing 604-8k speakers in 620 cabinets at a reasonable price and I'm wondering if they might work. The 620 cabinets are too tall, but they would fit if I remove some trim around the cupboard doors. I'm also a pretty good woodworker and could easily build some smaller cabinets that would slide into the space available. I could replace the doors with custom grills too.
Does this sound like a good idea, or am I crazy for even thinking about it?
Any feedback would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Andy
A
Value of old paper capacitor by color codes?
I'd like to replace this old capacitor, but before clipping it out to measure it, could anyone help me figure out the value by the color code?
One problem is that I don't know which end of the capacitor has the 'first' color band. Does it start with green? Or does it start with blue?
Is the thicker green band the voltage indicator? If so, I guess that means 600V (DC).
After that, I get:
Grey = 8
Orange = 3
White = 9
And for tolerance,
Blue = 6%
That doesn't make sense to me. I must be reading this wrong. Can anyone help me understand how the manufacturers color coded these old capacitors? Thanks...
One problem is that I don't know which end of the capacitor has the 'first' color band. Does it start with green? Or does it start with blue?
Is the thicker green band the voltage indicator? If so, I guess that means 600V (DC).
After that, I get:
Grey = 8
Orange = 3
White = 9
And for tolerance,
Blue = 6%
That doesn't make sense to me. I must be reading this wrong. Can anyone help me understand how the manufacturers color coded these old capacitors? Thanks...
Fully balanced MC phono preamplifier thoughts
- By Drbulj
- Analogue Source
- 727 Replies
Dears,
This is sub-thread of my turntable post: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...eded-with-motor-and-drive.412984/post-7687982
It seems appropriate to open new one just for the preamplifier.
Since I'm waiting for motor parts to start significant upgrade of this 22 y.o. thing, I will revisit the preamp too.
So far I was using this design with 2 x SSM2017 in first stage and 2 different second stages, description is here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...eded-with-motor-and-drive.412984/post-7688045
For the new version, I have 3 personal preferences that I would like to respect:
SSm2017 specifies 0.012% THD+N at gain of 1000, I probably get it bit better as 2 amps in differential configuration will cancel some distortion. However not the best in class THD, nevertheless doubt if it is hear-able. Nevertheless SSM2017 as ancient as it is, is still unbeatable on noise performance.
Here is PCB work in progress:
Alternatives (in my thoughts) for the first stage :
2nd option is to keep configuration but to upgrade SSM2017 with better INA like AD8429 for instance, as used here https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/chipomatic-balanced-input-riaa.331009/post-5627780 (but this is single ended output)
3rd option is classic differential receiver (same as my second stage now) , but that would call for 4 x AD797 and cost of over 70 Euro, I see no other opamp that would fit this purpose.
4th option is to use this ancient schematics and replace each AD797 with it in above schematics. Probably that is as far as low noise is possible.
Matched low noise dual transistors are rare today, but there are many dual JFET's that would do just fine here. Of course some more modern opamp would be used instead of OP27. However, this design for stereo would call for 12 dual matched low noise transistors, quite heavy on wallet.
Or, 5th idea, this very fine simple circuit from John Broskie's site. Looks very tempting even the gain will be max 40db (x100), so second stage will need to deal with another 40db, but that is not major issue if below circuit is quiet enough.
I'm sure that each of these options will work just nicely (when fully developed), but what would be the best?
Any comments, thoughts, ideas?
This is sub-thread of my turntable post: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...eded-with-motor-and-drive.412984/post-7687982
It seems appropriate to open new one just for the preamplifier.
Since I'm waiting for motor parts to start significant upgrade of this 22 y.o. thing, I will revisit the preamp too.
So far I was using this design with 2 x SSM2017 in first stage and 2 different second stages, description is here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...eded-with-motor-and-drive.412984/post-7688045
For the new version, I have 3 personal preferences that I would like to respect:
- Fully differential, I see great benefit and improvement from dropping ground of the signal path. Even still I'm using GND for referencing output voltage, but in new design I'm considering bootstrapping that with very low noise amplifier.
- Passive RIAA EQ
- As high as possible first gain stage, 60db (1000 V/V) seems just fine with my 0,34 mV nominal output cartridge. I do use higher PS voltage to allow for more output possibility; now +-18, next +-20V. This leaves second stage to deal with only about 20db gain.
SSm2017 specifies 0.012% THD+N at gain of 1000, I probably get it bit better as 2 amps in differential configuration will cancel some distortion. However not the best in class THD, nevertheless doubt if it is hear-able. Nevertheless SSM2017 as ancient as it is, is still unbeatable on noise performance.
Here is PCB work in progress:
Alternatives (in my thoughts) for the first stage :
2nd option is to keep configuration but to upgrade SSM2017 with better INA like AD8429 for instance, as used here https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/chipomatic-balanced-input-riaa.331009/post-5627780 (but this is single ended output)
3rd option is classic differential receiver (same as my second stage now) , but that would call for 4 x AD797 and cost of over 70 Euro, I see no other opamp that would fit this purpose.
4th option is to use this ancient schematics and replace each AD797 with it in above schematics. Probably that is as far as low noise is possible.
Matched low noise dual transistors are rare today, but there are many dual JFET's that would do just fine here. Of course some more modern opamp would be used instead of OP27. However, this design for stereo would call for 12 dual matched low noise transistors, quite heavy on wallet.
Or, 5th idea, this very fine simple circuit from John Broskie's site. Looks very tempting even the gain will be max 40db (x100), so second stage will need to deal with another 40db, but that is not major issue if below circuit is quiet enough.
I'm sure that each of these options will work just nicely (when fully developed), but what would be the best?
Any comments, thoughts, ideas?
Audio Innovations Alto amp overheating
- Solid State
- 10 Replies
I acquired an Alto amp last October, and it has run fine until now, apart from a loud buzz which was tracked down to the volume pot's earthing connection. Loosening the mounting nut stopped that. But now the right channel has started to run away, thermally. I have measured everything I can with a multimeter, comparing left and right channels, and have not managed to find any differences so far. This is unpowered, as I only get 20-30 seconds before the fuse on the left channel blows.
I have an infrared thermometer, so I can run it until it gets to about 30 degrees and then power off. The left channel barely warms. Looking at the instructions, I get half PSU voltage on R21/R22 as I should. I haven't yet checked across R21/R22 for 30mV.
I am fine building amps, but not so hot with fault finding, as I can follow a schematic without fully understanding exactly how it works. Hands better than brain! And I have all the transistors and diodes if I need to replace them. I haven't removed any components yet to fully check them.
What I need is help with understanding which components are the most likely to be causing the problem. I can replace any I need to, I can reflow solder joints, etc.
I have an infrared thermometer, so I can run it until it gets to about 30 degrees and then power off. The left channel barely warms. Looking at the instructions, I get half PSU voltage on R21/R22 as I should. I haven't yet checked across R21/R22 for 30mV.
I am fine building amps, but not so hot with fault finding, as I can follow a schematic without fully understanding exactly how it works. Hands better than brain! And I have all the transistors and diodes if I need to replace them. I haven't removed any components yet to fully check them.
What I need is help with understanding which components are the most likely to be causing the problem. I can replace any I need to, I can reflow solder joints, etc.
LT3081 PNP pass transistor ltspice simulation file problem?
- By nhs0124
- Power Supplies
- 0 Replies
I need to extend the current of LT3081 to 3.5A using a PNP pass transistor, but there is a problem in the LTspice simulation and the transient stability simulation cannot be performed. Can you provide a simulation file that can be run?
Sudden current draw problem from DC-DC converter
- By HHhelpneeded
- Electronic Design
- 4 Replies
Hello again, I made a little electronic gadget for my guitar pedals, let me explain my little gadget first. It's a 5volts 10k mah powerbank tied to a little dc-dc conventer that rated 1.5v & 36v 3amps
When I daisy chain it to few pedals at 9 volts which drawing like 300ma at total, it works great, problem arises when I chain it for like 5+ pedals.
If all pedals switched on, powerbank and all the leds of pedals flashes rapidly 3 times and I lose the power and powerbank turns off.
Then I tried something different, I changed my dc-dc's output to 18volts and plugged in to a power supply that designed for pedals, samething happened again all leds including power supply's flashed rapidly but weaker for 3 times then powerbank shutdown itself again...
My question is how can I make this setup to engage and keep my power supply running, because I have no problem powering and cranking my Yamaha Thr10c amp. It has a power adapter that rated 15v 3A. Somehow I just can't draw enough power for 9V 1A or just the power supply itself which is like 18V 200ma without anything attached.
Any help would be great !
Edit: changed my question
When I daisy chain it to few pedals at 9 volts which drawing like 300ma at total, it works great, problem arises when I chain it for like 5+ pedals.
If all pedals switched on, powerbank and all the leds of pedals flashes rapidly 3 times and I lose the power and powerbank turns off.
Then I tried something different, I changed my dc-dc's output to 18volts and plugged in to a power supply that designed for pedals, samething happened again all leds including power supply's flashed rapidly but weaker for 3 times then powerbank shutdown itself again...
My question is how can I make this setup to engage and keep my power supply running, because I have no problem powering and cranking my Yamaha Thr10c amp. It has a power adapter that rated 15v 3A. Somehow I just can't draw enough power for 9V 1A or just the power supply itself which is like 18V 200ma without anything attached.
Any help would be great !
Edit: changed my question
The very free speaker! - Mount any number of drivers in any position I like, with any wiring method I like, without worrying about design theories!
- By nandappe
- Full Range
- 41 Replies
This is an enclosure that can be played with and tested in various ways (model : DDVP-1303-WHIM).
Recommended drivers are MarkAudio CHP90 mica, CHR90, Alpair10.3, and MAOP10.
In this case, I mounted the three CHP90 at A, C, and E in the drawing and parallel wired them.
It would be interesting to mount them in positions other than A-G, or to mount a tweeter on the upper side of A and a woofer on the lower side plate.
Recommended drivers are MarkAudio CHP90 mica, CHR90, Alpair10.3, and MAOP10.
In this case, I mounted the three CHP90 at A, C, and E in the drawing and parallel wired them.
It would be interesting to mount them in positions other than A-G, or to mount a tweeter on the upper side of A and a woofer on the lower side plate.
Attachments
For Sale Papst outer rotor capstan motor
- Swap Meet
- 0 Replies
The motor was meant to be used in professional studio tape recorders.
It has dual bronze sleeve bearings and a hard chrome plated capstan, long enough for one inch tape.
The capstan diameter measures .4775 inches which suggests 600 RPM for a tape speed of 15"per second. The second speed may be 1200 RPM.
The motor runs on 115VAC-60 Hz and it requires two capacitors, one for each speed.
To make sure it runs, I'll buy the two capacitors and include them in the sale.
I don't think the motor was ever used because there is no hint of tape oxide having rubbed off on the capstan. I think it was a sample motor from Papst to the Scully Recording Instruments Company.
As yet, I'll have to figure out the wire connections.
Thanks,
Ralf
It has dual bronze sleeve bearings and a hard chrome plated capstan, long enough for one inch tape.
The capstan diameter measures .4775 inches which suggests 600 RPM for a tape speed of 15"per second. The second speed may be 1200 RPM.
The motor runs on 115VAC-60 Hz and it requires two capacitors, one for each speed.
To make sure it runs, I'll buy the two capacitors and include them in the sale.
I don't think the motor was ever used because there is no hint of tape oxide having rubbed off on the capstan. I think it was a sample motor from Papst to the Scully Recording Instruments Company.
As yet, I'll have to figure out the wire connections.
Thanks,
Ralf
Single Ended: the pentode retaliation
- By zintolo
- Tubes / Valves
- 322 Replies
As a side thread from the original one for the Push-Pull ( Shunt Cascode Driver meets UNSET for Push-Pull ), I post here a preliminary version of a pentode-driving-a-pentode single ended amp with a DF of 8.6 (Zout is 0.93 Ohm considering 0.2 Ohm of secondary winding) without any gnfb, and capable of 30Wrms with 1.34% THD.
The driver is a pentode CCS loaded with a-g1 feedback, whilst the output is a pentode with a-g1 feedback plus the same amount of UL.
I've used this transformer as reference: TTG-KT88SE - Tube output UL transformer [3kOhm] KT88 / 300B SE - Shop Toroidy.pl
I can get 0.089% THD at 1 Wrms:
The driver is swinging 70Vpp at 0.015% THD:
I can get 0.32% THD at 10 Wrms:
The driver is swinging 220Vpp at 0.06% THD:
I can get 0.57% THD at 20 Wrms:
The driver is swinging 320Vpp at 0.12% THD:
I can get 1.34% THD at 30 Wrms:
The driver is swinging 400Vpp at 0.23% THD:
The driver is a pentode CCS loaded with a-g1 feedback, whilst the output is a pentode with a-g1 feedback plus the same amount of UL.
I've used this transformer as reference: TTG-KT88SE - Tube output UL transformer [3kOhm] KT88 / 300B SE - Shop Toroidy.pl
I can get 0.089% THD at 1 Wrms:
Code:
Harmonic Frequency Fourier Normalized Phase Normalized
Number [Hz] Component Component [degree] Phase [deg]
1 1.000e+03 3.959e+00 1.000e+00 -179.97° 0.00°
2 2.000e+03 3.508e-03 8.861e-04 -91.90° 88.07°
3 3.000e+03 3.851e-04 9.727e-05 -179.56° 0.42°
4 4.000e+03 2.383e-05 6.019e-06 13.08° 193.05°
5 5.000e+03 1.936e-05 4.890e-06 -0.11° 179.86°
6 6.000e+03 1.483e-05 3.747e-06 -0.20° 179.77°
7 7.000e+03 1.271e-05 3.211e-06 -0.19° 179.78°
8 8.000e+03 1.113e-05 2.812e-06 -0.17° 179.81°
9 9.000e+03 9.894e-06 2.499e-06 -0.15° 179.83°
10 1.000e+04 8.905e-06 2.249e-06 -0.13° 179.84°
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.089152%(0.089155%)The driver is swinging 70Vpp at 0.015% THD:
Code:
Harmonic Frequency Fourier Normalized Phase Normalized
Number [Hz] Component Component [degree] Phase [deg]
1 1.000e+03 3.477e+01 1.000e+00 0.06° 0.00°
2 2.000e+03 5.256e-03 1.512e-04 -92.08° -92.14°
3 3.000e+03 6.492e-04 1.867e-05 2.58° 2.52°
4 4.000e+03 1.213e-04 3.487e-06 171.70° 171.64°
5 5.000e+03 9.866e-05 2.838e-06 -179.89° -179.95°
6 6.000e+03 8.013e-05 2.305e-06 -179.91° -179.97°
7 7.000e+03 6.867e-05 1.975e-06 -179.98° -180.05°
8 8.000e+03 6.009e-05 1.728e-06 -179.99° -180.05°
9 9.000e+03 5.342e-05 1.536e-06 -179.99° -180.05°
10 1.000e+04 4.808e-05 1.383e-06 -179.99° -180.05°
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.015242%(0.015248%)I can get 0.32% THD at 10 Wrms:
Code:
Harmonic Frequency Fourier Normalized Phase Normalized
Number [Hz] Component Component [degree] Phase [deg]
1 1.000e+03 1.240e+01 1.000e+00 -179.97° 0.00°
2 2.000e+03 3.662e-02 2.953e-03 -92.57° 87.40°
3 3.000e+03 1.550e-02 1.250e-03 -179.47° 0.51°
4 4.000e+03 5.075e-04 4.092e-05 65.70° 245.67°
5 5.000e+03 7.392e-04 5.961e-05 1.79° 181.76°
6 6.000e+03 4.516e-05 3.642e-06 30.00° 209.97°
7 7.000e+03 6.843e-06 5.518e-07 -29.56° 150.41°
8 8.000e+03 4.013e-05 3.236e-06 -5.76° 174.22°
9 9.000e+03 3.700e-05 2.983e-06 -0.23° 179.75°
10 1.000e+04 3.099e-05 2.499e-06 0.04° 180.01°
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.320767%(0.320768%)The driver is swinging 220Vpp at 0.06% THD:
Code:
Harmonic Frequency Fourier Normalized Phase Normalized
Number [Hz] Component Component [degree] Phase [deg]
1 1.000e+03 1.092e+02 1.000e+00 0.06° 0.00°
2 2.000e+03 5.965e-02 5.462e-04 -90.23° -90.29°
3 3.000e+03 2.869e-02 2.627e-04 2.11° 2.05°
4 4.000e+03 2.370e-03 2.170e-05 97.59° 97.53°
5 5.000e+03 1.253e-03 1.147e-05 -177.33° -177.39°
6 6.000e+03 2.699e-04 2.471e-06 -150.75° -150.81°
7 7.000e+03 1.610e-04 1.475e-06 178.82° 178.75°
8 8.000e+03 1.725e-04 1.580e-06 178.06° 178.00°
9 9.000e+03 1.551e-04 1.420e-06 -179.91° -179.97°
10 1.000e+04 1.384e-04 1.267e-06 -179.90° -179.97°
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.060661%(0.060662%)I can get 0.57% THD at 20 Wrms:
Code:
Harmonic Frequency Fourier Normalized Phase Normalized
Number [Hz] Component Component [degree] Phase [deg]
1 1.000e+03 1.793e+01 1.000e+00 -179.98° 0.00°
2 2.000e+03 7.889e-02 4.399e-03 -93.30° 86.68°
3 3.000e+03 6.615e-02 3.689e-03 -179.21° 0.76°
4 4.000e+03 1.129e-03 6.297e-05 2.38° 182.36°
5 5.000e+03 7.964e-03 4.440e-04 2.39° 182.36°
6 6.000e+03 8.856e-04 4.938e-05 100.30° 280.27°
7 7.000e+03 1.101e-03 6.139e-05 -175.67° 4.31°
8 8.000e+03 2.349e-04 1.310e-05 -63.35° 116.63°
9 9.000e+03 2.290e-04 1.277e-05 3.30° 183.28°
10 1.000e+04 5.244e-05 2.924e-06 38.57° 218.55°
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.575872%(0.575872%)The driver is swinging 320Vpp at 0.12% THD:
Code:
Harmonic Frequency Fourier Normalized Phase Normalized
Number [Hz] Component Component [degree] Phase [deg]
1 1.000e+03 1.587e+02 1.000e+00 0.06° 0.00°
2 2.000e+03 1.582e-01 9.970e-04 -90.08° -90.14°
3 3.000e+03 1.109e-01 6.988e-04 2.11° 2.05°
4 4.000e+03 1.605e-02 1.012e-04 90.48° 90.42°
5 5.000e+03 9.257e-03 5.834e-05 -176.41° -176.47°
6 6.000e+03 1.999e-03 1.260e-05 -101.79° -101.85°
7 7.000e+03 5.240e-04 3.302e-06 10.34° 10.28°
8 8.000e+03 2.831e-04 1.785e-06 136.14° 136.08°
9 9.000e+03 2.713e-04 1.710e-06 -176.22° -176.28°
10 1.000e+04 1.879e-04 1.184e-06 -174.49° -174.55°
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.122318%(0.122318%)I can get 1.34% THD at 30 Wrms:
Code:
Harmonic Frequency Fourier Normalized Phase Normalized
Number [Hz] Component Component [degree] Phase [deg]
1 1.000e+03 2.211e+01 1.000e+00 -179.98° 0.00°
2 2.000e+03 5.387e-02 2.436e-03 -100.01° 79.97°
3 3.000e+03 2.631e-01 1.190e-02 -179.54° 0.44°
4 4.000e+03 5.724e-02 2.589e-03 -87.39° 92.59°
5 5.000e+03 8.979e-02 4.061e-03 -0.36° 179.62°
6 6.000e+03 4.086e-02 1.848e-03 88.38° 268.36°
7 7.000e+03 4.102e-02 1.855e-03 176.90° 356.88°
8 8.000e+03 2.481e-02 1.122e-03 -95.10° 84.88°
9 9.000e+03 2.127e-02 9.618e-04 -6.34° 173.63°
10 1.000e+04 1.379e-02 6.236e-04 81.49° 261.47°
Total Harmonic Distortion: 1.342064%(1.344007%)The driver is swinging 400Vpp at 0.23% THD:
Code:
Harmonic Frequency Fourier Normalized Phase Normalized
Number [Hz] Component Component [degree] Phase [deg]
1 1.000e+03 1.980e+02 1.000e+00 0.06° 0.00°
2 2.000e+03 3.429e-01 1.732e-03 -90.26° -90.32°
3 3.000e+03 2.900e-01 1.465e-03 2.37° 2.31°
4 4.000e+03 6.541e-02 3.304e-04 88.28° 88.22°
5 5.000e+03 4.225e-02 2.134e-04 -174.48° -174.54°
6 6.000e+03 1.313e-02 6.633e-05 -97.64° -97.70°
7 7.000e+03 6.336e-03 3.200e-05 15.17° 15.12°
8 8.000e+03 2.241e-03 1.132e-05 78.78° 78.72°
9 9.000e+03 1.403e-03 7.084e-06 -148.60° -148.65°
10 1.000e+04 6.102e-04 3.082e-06 -145.97° -146.03°
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.230306%(0.230306%)Attachments
Simulation of a 3-way speaker with a cardioid pattern
Hello everyone, I am trying to run simulations in Vituix, with the aim of creating a 3-way speaker with a cardioid pattern. I started by tracing the speakers from the manufacturers' websites, then applied the low-frequency loading and baffle diffraction using the various tools that Vituix offers. My goal is to replicate the speaker to see if I can achieve reliable simulations with what I have designed and measured.
I will post a couple of graphs to share the simulation results and perhaps get suggestions for improving the whole setup.
The speaker will be a stand-mounted design, with dimensions of approximately 40/45cm in height, 35cm in depth, and 20cm in width. The tweeter and midwoofer will be placed on the front panel axis, while the two subwoofers will be positioned on the two side panels.
The crossover will be active, and the goal of the project, in addition to evaluating the quality of the simulation, will be to attempt to simulate an active cardioid system using the two side subwoofers.
Many thanks
Stefano
I will post a couple of graphs to share the simulation results and perhaps get suggestions for improving the whole setup.
The speaker will be a stand-mounted design, with dimensions of approximately 40/45cm in height, 35cm in depth, and 20cm in width. The tweeter and midwoofer will be placed on the front panel axis, while the two subwoofers will be positioned on the two side panels.
The crossover will be active, and the goal of the project, in addition to evaluating the quality of the simulation, will be to attempt to simulate an active cardioid system using the two side subwoofers.
Many thanks
Stefano
Wharfedale Triton crossover
I recently purchased some Wharfedale Triton speakers off eBay, with the intention of refurbishing them as a learning exercise. Essentially a practice pair of speakers, to learn how to clean the grille cloth, rewire and re-cap, that kind of thing. They came with a captive speaker cable that was terminated with a two pin DIN plug. Without thinking, I just chopped those off, as the little amplifier I use to test things only takes bare wire. I naively assumed that there would be some +ve / -ve type marking on the crossover circuit board inside, which it turns out there isn’t.
Here's the speakers in question:
A top view of the crossover, note that two of the inductors are missing any indication of value:
A mirrored view of the bottom of the crossover after I'd de-soldered all the leads:
I took some photos and attempted to try and understand the circuit, so I could determine the correct pins to wire up to some proper terminal posts. I started on a whiteboard, then tried to convert that into a “proper” circuit diagram. I’m new to all of this kind of thing, and am not sure that I’ve used all the correct symbols and terminology on the diagram; I would welcome some feedback on that.
My whiteboard circuit:
And the resulting circuit diagram:
Could someone please confirm whether my circuit diagram is accurate…? Specifically, I would like to verify that I have correctly identified the positive and negative input terminals on the circuit board. That would be the right most tab being the positive input, and the one to it's left, being the negative input.
Cheers,
Bob.
Here's the speakers in question:
A top view of the crossover, note that two of the inductors are missing any indication of value:
A mirrored view of the bottom of the crossover after I'd de-soldered all the leads:
I took some photos and attempted to try and understand the circuit, so I could determine the correct pins to wire up to some proper terminal posts. I started on a whiteboard, then tried to convert that into a “proper” circuit diagram. I’m new to all of this kind of thing, and am not sure that I’ve used all the correct symbols and terminology on the diagram; I would welcome some feedback on that.
My whiteboard circuit:
And the resulting circuit diagram:
Could someone please confirm whether my circuit diagram is accurate…? Specifically, I would like to verify that I have correctly identified the positive and negative input terminals on the circuit board. That would be the right most tab being the positive input, and the one to it's left, being the negative input.
Cheers,
Bob.
![PXL_20250325_202858459.RAW-01.MP.COVER[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/1348/1348055-09583308872285fe6518e5759550b66f.jpg?hash=dWEA0eTIVL)
Experimental Distortion Matrix
- Solid State
- 0 Replies
Guitar Distortion Matrix
Here’s a circuit that provides a variety of distortion sounds for the electric guitar. The passive diode matrix should be driven by an active device, such as a volume-boosting stomp-box or guitar preamp, while the output can go to any kind of guitar-amp or other such active device. The design is based on the distortion circuit in a project called the “Mod Box” that appeared in Electronics Now magazine in 1997 (May issue, p. 45). And while the article is old, the circuit I designed based on it remains perfectly valid.
The preferred sounds, emphasizing even-order harmonics, with either the Fuzz, Buzz, or Overdrive settings is to activate only one diode oriented in a given direction but two in the other direction. It does not matter which directions are chosen for the combination as long as there’s an imbalance. Of course, any setting provides distortion. The germanium diodes, in the Fuzz setting, are said to give the most pleasing distortion, similar to that of a vacuum-tube clipping, while the silicone diodes give a harder sound, with the LEDs the brightest.
Because of significant loss of input signal level to achieve the distortion effect, some kind of active device, such as a stomp-box with extra gain, is needed on the input. Or, to turn this into an active project, battery-powered solutions are shown below. Use the preamp to drive the matrix and put the buffer between the matrix output and the input of an amplifier or other active device. And I recommend keeping the input/output jacks as shown, to allow for the greatest versatility, even if everything is put in one enclosure. For the +9V DC supply, connect the negative end of a transistor battery to ground so the positive end is the supply. And one battery will serve both circuits.
EOF
Here’s a circuit that provides a variety of distortion sounds for the electric guitar. The passive diode matrix should be driven by an active device, such as a volume-boosting stomp-box or guitar preamp, while the output can go to any kind of guitar-amp or other such active device. The design is based on the distortion circuit in a project called the “Mod Box” that appeared in Electronics Now magazine in 1997 (May issue, p. 45). And while the article is old, the circuit I designed based on it remains perfectly valid.
The preferred sounds, emphasizing even-order harmonics, with either the Fuzz, Buzz, or Overdrive settings is to activate only one diode oriented in a given direction but two in the other direction. It does not matter which directions are chosen for the combination as long as there’s an imbalance. Of course, any setting provides distortion. The germanium diodes, in the Fuzz setting, are said to give the most pleasing distortion, similar to that of a vacuum-tube clipping, while the silicone diodes give a harder sound, with the LEDs the brightest.
Because of significant loss of input signal level to achieve the distortion effect, some kind of active device, such as a stomp-box with extra gain, is needed on the input. Or, to turn this into an active project, battery-powered solutions are shown below. Use the preamp to drive the matrix and put the buffer between the matrix output and the input of an amplifier or other active device. And I recommend keeping the input/output jacks as shown, to allow for the greatest versatility, even if everything is put in one enclosure. For the +9V DC supply, connect the negative end of a transistor battery to ground so the positive end is the supply. And one battery will serve both circuits.
EOF
AIYIMA YM91R20-2F-ZXJ-L1 (3", full range)
- By nandappe
- Full Range
- 15 Replies
AIYIMA YM91R20-2F-ZXJ-L1 (3", full range) installed in HB-07F-ML (double bass reflex).
It is a low-priced product, but it has a die-cast basket and neodymium magnet.
The sound quality is better than the price. Cost performance is high.
Login to view embedded media
It is a low-priced product, but it has a die-cast basket and neodymium magnet.
The sound quality is better than the price. Cost performance is high.
Login to view embedded media
Attachments
Advent Maestro speaker question
- By Tube Radio
- Multi-Way
- 57 Replies
I've got a pair of Advent Maestro speakers that were given to me today. They are in good condition and the woofers were refoamed a few years ago.
I already ordered new caps for the crossover.
Two things I've noticed.
1. The speaker wire terminals on both speakers has separated from the terminal cup with the crossover on it at the bottom. What should I use to secure it back down?
2. I've read where the woofer doesn't play high enough causing a hole in the frequency response near the crossover point of the woofer and midrange which is 900Hz. Listening to them, I believe I actually hear that, but will wait until the film caps come in and are installed to see if that fixes it. If I still hear the issue, what is the best way to eliminate the issue? Normally I'd just use a different inductor value for the woofer, but the inductor is part of the dish where the fuse, speaker terminals and other crossover components are and I'd have to add an inductor which would require mounting it somewhere in the cabinet.
What I should do is disconnect a midrange and test it using my DATS V3 speaker tester so I can see what the impedance of it is as in order for the 14uF cap value to be correct the midrange impedance would have to be 12.5 ohms provided the specs I found are correct. That's not exactly possible though given the speakers are at work now.
Specs of the speaker.
https://audio-database.com/ADVENT/speaker/a-1012.html
Also I will run these with a powered sub.
The response is +/- 3dB 42-23kHz
I currently have the powered sub crossover set to 40Hz, but am not that happy with it.
I can put two 160uF electrolytic caps in parallel to make a 320uF cap which based on the rated 6 ohms impedance of the speaker will give me a high pass of 82Hz.
I might try that tomorrow with the caps between the + speaker lead and + speaker terminal. If it sounds better then I may install the caps between the + speaker lead and woofer inductor (when i install the film caps) so that I don't run the risk of the caps affecting the midrange and treble.
EDIT:
Here's the crossover schematic I found.
However the response graph I found seems to suggest there is no hole in the frequency response.
I already ordered new caps for the crossover.
Two things I've noticed.
1. The speaker wire terminals on both speakers has separated from the terminal cup with the crossover on it at the bottom. What should I use to secure it back down?
2. I've read where the woofer doesn't play high enough causing a hole in the frequency response near the crossover point of the woofer and midrange which is 900Hz. Listening to them, I believe I actually hear that, but will wait until the film caps come in and are installed to see if that fixes it. If I still hear the issue, what is the best way to eliminate the issue? Normally I'd just use a different inductor value for the woofer, but the inductor is part of the dish where the fuse, speaker terminals and other crossover components are and I'd have to add an inductor which would require mounting it somewhere in the cabinet.
What I should do is disconnect a midrange and test it using my DATS V3 speaker tester so I can see what the impedance of it is as in order for the 14uF cap value to be correct the midrange impedance would have to be 12.5 ohms provided the specs I found are correct. That's not exactly possible though given the speakers are at work now.
Specs of the speaker.
https://audio-database.com/ADVENT/speaker/a-1012.html
Also I will run these with a powered sub.
The response is +/- 3dB 42-23kHz
I currently have the powered sub crossover set to 40Hz, but am not that happy with it.
I can put two 160uF electrolytic caps in parallel to make a 320uF cap which based on the rated 6 ohms impedance of the speaker will give me a high pass of 82Hz.
I might try that tomorrow with the caps between the + speaker lead and + speaker terminal. If it sounds better then I may install the caps between the + speaker lead and woofer inductor (when i install the film caps) so that I don't run the risk of the caps affecting the midrange and treble.
EDIT:
Here's the crossover schematic I found.
However the response graph I found seems to suggest there is no hole in the frequency response.
Another realization of Bob Cordell's THD Analyzer
- By giulianodes
- Equipment & Tools
- 234 Replies
Attachments
Directivity study- polar maps of HF, MF and LF drivers in cabinets
I've posted a small study comparing High, Medium and Low Frequency drivers in a variety of cabinets.
It's on another forum that allows me to edit/amend as more data becomes available.
First up, some pretty colors:
Edit: Feb 2025- Speaker colours explained;
SPEAKER 3...
Normalised:
SPEAKER 3:
3 way speaker with twin 12” woofers in 13.75" wide, MT cabinet 9.5" wide with 6” midrange + 1” ring radiator offset from centre, no roundovers,
2.83V input applied:
Reference:
SPEAKER 2:
Normalised:
SPEAKER 2:
3-way speaker with 8” woofer in 21cm wide cabinet with 1" roundover, and 5”/1” coaxial driver,
2.83V input applied.
Reference:
Now, if you're not sure of how what these colors/shapes mean, then this directivity study is for you!
It's aimed at bringing you along the journey of speaker designs which have with smooth frequency responses in many directions.
If you are familiar with seeing a single on-axis (or a few off-axis ) measurements for loudspeakers, please have a look at this study to observe how off-axis measurements varying over a larger span eg. up to 360° horizontally and vertically may add value to your designs, and how the use of non-normalized polar maps may assist.
My study incorporates-
1.High Frequency devices includes dome tweeters, ring radiators, ribbon tweeters, compression drivers, in cabinets with and without round-overs, with or without waveguides/horns, or even without cabinets (nude).
Start at the top for a background/explanation
Jump straight to posts for non-normalised polar maps (horizontal 0 to +/- 90 ° minimum; 0 to +/- 180 ° horizontally and vertically where/when available):
All drivers highlighted in bold type are by fellow DIYers who kindly offered their data for our perusal / interpretation.
A model of a theoretical 3/4" flat piston tweeter on a 5 1/8" wide baffle with large 1.5" round-over
SB Acoustics SB19ST-C00-04 a 3/4" soft dome tweeter on a 5 1/8" wide baffle with 1" round-over
SB Acoustics SB29SDAC on a 8" wide baffle (coming soon)
Scan-Speak D2604/8330-00: 1" soft dome on a 8.5" wide cabinet, offset 1/2" from center line
Scan-Speak R2604/8330-00: 1" ring radiator in same cabinet, again offset 1/2" from center line
Fountek NeoCD3.0 a 8x60mm ribbon tweeter on a 8.75" wide cabinet with 10mm round-over courtesy @DcibeL
Fountek NeoCD3.0 on a 11.5" wide cabinet with 3/4" round-over courtesy Curt Campbell and @jholtz
Fountek NeoCD3.5H a ribbon tweeter & integrated horn on a 8.5" wide cabinet with 3/4" round-over, courtesy Göran @gornir
Fountek NeoCD3.5H nude (not mounted on any cabinet), courtesy @Juhazi
B&W HF00963 in tapered tube hard dome tweeter in a minimal baffle/tapered cylinder, courtesy @PKAudio
Tymphany DFM-2535R00-08 attached to a SB Acoustics H225 and H250 constant directivity horns, both nude
Tweeter of SICA 5-5-C-15-CP coaxial driver, mounted in 7" circular frame with 1/2" round-over, courtesy @vineethkumar01
Tweeter for SB Acoustics SB17CAC / SB17NBAC coaxial prototype courtesy @5th element
Tymphany XT25BG60-04 in Visaton WG148R waveguide, mounted on 11" wide baffle with 1.5" round-over
Various tweeters in courtesy @augerpro's waveguides mounted in real cabinets, with or without round-overs (including SB26CDC in 6.5" elliptical waveguide, Peerless OT19NC00-04 in 8" elliptical waveguide, horizontal measurements), Donate!
SB Acoustics SB26ADC in a customized 8" waveguide for 60° beamwidth from 1K to 12KHz. courtesy @fluid
tweeter from KEF R series (non-META) coaxial, mounted in a cabinet with 1.5" round-overs
tweeter from KEF Blade Meta/Reference Meta, mounted in cabinet with 1.5" round-overs vs no round-over (awaiting cabinets)
2. Medium Frequency devices includes cones and domes, typically covering 3-400Hz to 3-4KHz
B&W 5" FST midrange in 8.75" wide cabinet with r10mm round-over, courtesy @DcibeL
Larger 6" FST midrange in 9.5" wide cabinet and 8.5" spheroidal cabinet
previous generation (Kevlar) 6" FST midrange in the same 8.5" spherical cabinet
Volt VM752 3" dome midrange in 14.5" wide cabinet, offset 1 11/16" from center, courtesy @mbrennwa
Faital 4FE42 4" cone midrange in a 6" spheroidal cabinet
Purifi 5" and 6.5" drivers on same width baffle (completed, awaiting publication)
Purifi 6.5" aluminium vs fibre cone
3. Low Frequency devices includes woofers and/or subwoofers, typically covering 3-400Hz and below:
KEF LS60 's dual 5.25" woofers, side firing, in dual opposed configuration, rear ported courtesy @bikinpunk
KEF Blade 2 Meta's quad 6.5" woofers, in dual opposed configuration, 2 on each side panel, with rear firing ports courtesy @bikinpunk
KEF R11 Meta, quad 6.5" woofers, all 4 on front panel, with rear firing ports courtesy www.audiosciencereview.com
Thanks again to all those involved who kindly supplied their measurements.
If you find anything that you feel is a misrepresentation of your data, please let me know.
All constructive comments welcome, as well as suggestions for better readability. It's a lot of graphs, I know.
PS. If a link is currently unavailable; then it is currently being updated/edited. Try again in 24 hours. Thanks for your patience.
Speaker 1...
It's on another forum that allows me to edit/amend as more data becomes available.
First up, some pretty colors:
Edit: Feb 2025- Speaker colours explained;
SPEAKER 3...
Normalised:
SPEAKER 3:
3 way speaker with twin 12” woofers in 13.75" wide, MT cabinet 9.5" wide with 6” midrange + 1” ring radiator offset from centre, no roundovers,
2.83V input applied:
Reference:
SPEAKER 2:
Normalised:
SPEAKER 2:
3-way speaker with 8” woofer in 21cm wide cabinet with 1" roundover, and 5”/1” coaxial driver,
2.83V input applied.
Reference:
Now, if you're not sure of how what these colors/shapes mean, then this directivity study is for you!
It's aimed at bringing you along the journey of speaker designs which have with smooth frequency responses in many directions.
If you are familiar with seeing a single on-axis (or a few off-axis ) measurements for loudspeakers, please have a look at this study to observe how off-axis measurements varying over a larger span eg. up to 360° horizontally and vertically may add value to your designs, and how the use of non-normalized polar maps may assist.
My study incorporates-
1.High Frequency devices includes dome tweeters, ring radiators, ribbon tweeters, compression drivers, in cabinets with and without round-overs, with or without waveguides/horns, or even without cabinets (nude).
Start at the top for a background/explanation
Jump straight to posts for non-normalised polar maps (horizontal 0 to +/- 90 ° minimum; 0 to +/- 180 ° horizontally and vertically where/when available):
All drivers highlighted in bold type are by fellow DIYers who kindly offered their data for our perusal / interpretation.
A model of a theoretical 3/4" flat piston tweeter on a 5 1/8" wide baffle with large 1.5" round-over
SB Acoustics SB19ST-C00-04 a 3/4" soft dome tweeter on a 5 1/8" wide baffle with 1" round-over
SB Acoustics SB29SDAC on a 8" wide baffle (coming soon)
Scan-Speak D2604/8330-00: 1" soft dome on a 8.5" wide cabinet, offset 1/2" from center line
Scan-Speak R2604/8330-00: 1" ring radiator in same cabinet, again offset 1/2" from center line
Fountek NeoCD3.0 a 8x60mm ribbon tweeter on a 8.75" wide cabinet with 10mm round-over courtesy @DcibeL
Fountek NeoCD3.0 on a 11.5" wide cabinet with 3/4" round-over courtesy Curt Campbell and @jholtz
Fountek NeoCD3.5H a ribbon tweeter & integrated horn on a 8.5" wide cabinet with 3/4" round-over, courtesy Göran @gornir
Fountek NeoCD3.5H nude (not mounted on any cabinet), courtesy @Juhazi
B&W HF00963 in tapered tube hard dome tweeter in a minimal baffle/tapered cylinder, courtesy @PKAudio
Tymphany DFM-2535R00-08 attached to a SB Acoustics H225 and H250 constant directivity horns, both nude
Tweeter of SICA 5-5-C-15-CP coaxial driver, mounted in 7" circular frame with 1/2" round-over, courtesy @vineethkumar01
Tweeter for SB Acoustics SB17CAC / SB17NBAC coaxial prototype courtesy @5th element
Tymphany XT25BG60-04 in Visaton WG148R waveguide, mounted on 11" wide baffle with 1.5" round-over
Various tweeters in courtesy @augerpro's waveguides mounted in real cabinets, with or without round-overs (including SB26CDC in 6.5" elliptical waveguide, Peerless OT19NC00-04 in 8" elliptical waveguide, horizontal measurements), Donate!
SB Acoustics SB26ADC in a customized 8" waveguide for 60° beamwidth from 1K to 12KHz. courtesy @fluid
tweeter from KEF R series (non-META) coaxial, mounted in a cabinet with 1.5" round-overs
tweeter from KEF Blade Meta/Reference Meta, mounted in cabinet with 1.5" round-overs vs no round-over (awaiting cabinets)
2. Medium Frequency devices includes cones and domes, typically covering 3-400Hz to 3-4KHz
B&W 5" FST midrange in 8.75" wide cabinet with r10mm round-over, courtesy @DcibeL
Larger 6" FST midrange in 9.5" wide cabinet and 8.5" spheroidal cabinet
previous generation (Kevlar) 6" FST midrange in the same 8.5" spherical cabinet
Volt VM752 3" dome midrange in 14.5" wide cabinet, offset 1 11/16" from center, courtesy @mbrennwa
Faital 4FE42 4" cone midrange in a 6" spheroidal cabinet
Purifi 5" and 6.5" drivers on same width baffle (completed, awaiting publication)
Purifi 6.5" aluminium vs fibre cone
3. Low Frequency devices includes woofers and/or subwoofers, typically covering 3-400Hz and below:
KEF LS60 's dual 5.25" woofers, side firing, in dual opposed configuration, rear ported courtesy @bikinpunk
KEF Blade 2 Meta's quad 6.5" woofers, in dual opposed configuration, 2 on each side panel, with rear firing ports courtesy @bikinpunk
KEF R11 Meta, quad 6.5" woofers, all 4 on front panel, with rear firing ports courtesy www.audiosciencereview.com
Thanks again to all those involved who kindly supplied their measurements.
If you find anything that you feel is a misrepresentation of your data, please let me know.
All constructive comments welcome, as well as suggestions for better readability. It's a lot of graphs, I know.
PS. If a link is currently unavailable; then it is currently being updated/edited. Try again in 24 hours. Thanks for your patience.
Speaker 1...
A Cheap thermal IR camera for troubleshooting power amplifiers
- By Mark'51
- Equipment & Tools
- 6 Replies
I've been working on an old power amplifier (SAE MK3CM) that has a problem with one channel. It works OK for a short time and then the positive side of the output waveform starts to clip, somewhere around 5V. Most of the voltages measure reasonably close to what the SM says they should, but one clue is my nose. I can smell something getting hot. So I decided to make myself a thermal IR camera to determine what's getting hot w/o burning myself or potentially connecting my body to up to 150V (the supply rails are +/- 75V).
I found a relatively inexpensive IR camera that has a 32 x 24 pixel array, the MLX90640. Sparkfun and Adafruit will sell you a board with one on it for about $70 -- and that doesn't include the display and Arduino-ish board needed to process and display the thermal image. However, I already had a Teensy 4.0 and a 320 x 240 TFT display so I just bought the camera chip from Digikey. The camera only has 4 pins -- Vcc, ground, SDA and SCL -- so I just soldered it down to a piece of perfboard.
Adafruit has some example programs for their version so I downloaded them and modified one for my particular display (it has about 4X the number of pixels than the one they use). And it works surprisingly well. So I cobbled together a setup to view the component side of my power amplifier and did find significant differences between the two channels. So here are a few photos showing my admittedly crude setup:
The above photo shows the display. The camera is attached to the tripod using a "C" clamp with some scrap 3D printing failure I had lying around. The amp is shown in the lower right side.
Above you can see the Teensy 4.0 and a better shot of the camera. The camera chip actually is on the bottom side of the board, because I installed it upside-down....oops...
The above image shows what the "good" side of the amp looks like, thermally speaking. The two hot spots are two cascode-connected transistors whose inputs are the front-end LTP's. In normal operation they should dissipate about 76mW.
This is a photo showing the faulty channel. At least one of the transistors -- which happens to be associated with the positive side of the output waveform -- clearly is running hotter. So I have narrowed-down my search by quite a bit. BTW, my hand, which is around 80F, only generates a yellow color so the hot spot is pretty warm.
One initially-challenging problem was figuring out just exactly WHERE those hot spots are. I tried using my finger to point at the hot spot but it was just too big. So I made a hot spot "wand". Just a 120 ohm 1/4 watt resistor taped onto the end of a wood dowel. I adjusted the power supply driving it so it doesn't overload the camera. And here's my high-tech "hot spot":
I found a relatively inexpensive IR camera that has a 32 x 24 pixel array, the MLX90640. Sparkfun and Adafruit will sell you a board with one on it for about $70 -- and that doesn't include the display and Arduino-ish board needed to process and display the thermal image. However, I already had a Teensy 4.0 and a 320 x 240 TFT display so I just bought the camera chip from Digikey. The camera only has 4 pins -- Vcc, ground, SDA and SCL -- so I just soldered it down to a piece of perfboard.
Adafruit has some example programs for their version so I downloaded them and modified one for my particular display (it has about 4X the number of pixels than the one they use). And it works surprisingly well. So I cobbled together a setup to view the component side of my power amplifier and did find significant differences between the two channels. So here are a few photos showing my admittedly crude setup:
The above photo shows the display. The camera is attached to the tripod using a "C" clamp with some scrap 3D printing failure I had lying around. The amp is shown in the lower right side.
Above you can see the Teensy 4.0 and a better shot of the camera. The camera chip actually is on the bottom side of the board, because I installed it upside-down....oops...
The above image shows what the "good" side of the amp looks like, thermally speaking. The two hot spots are two cascode-connected transistors whose inputs are the front-end LTP's. In normal operation they should dissipate about 76mW.
This is a photo showing the faulty channel. At least one of the transistors -- which happens to be associated with the positive side of the output waveform -- clearly is running hotter. So I have narrowed-down my search by quite a bit. BTW, my hand, which is around 80F, only generates a yellow color so the hot spot is pretty warm.
One initially-challenging problem was figuring out just exactly WHERE those hot spots are. I tried using my finger to point at the hot spot but it was just too big. So I made a hot spot "wand". Just a 120 ohm 1/4 watt resistor taped onto the end of a wood dowel. I adjusted the power supply driving it so it doesn't overload the camera. And here's my high-tech "hot spot":
What happen to LC Audio Technology? Acquisition by an other Company?
- Solid State
- 4 Replies
Attachments
Adding a second woofer to the speaker system
I've successfully created three-way bookshelf speakers containing a 10" woofer, a 2" dome midrange, and a 1" tweeter per closed enclosure for years. The crossovers are tuned to have output response (nearly) summing flat as shown in this picture.
However, I've been using them with an active subwoofer. Now I plan to stop using subwoofer and would like to listen to low-frequency from the main speakers. I removed subwoofer and found the bass wasn't enough, though I reckon these speakers sound flat.
I still have a pair of the woofers unused so I thought to add them to the system. In other words, the bookshelf speakers will be converted to floor-standing from now on.
The problem is I cannot easily add them without mod the crossovers. And I want to increase only low-frequency region. I finally need to convert them to 3.5-way system. In fact, I tried building them 3-way by typical way of adding the second woofer and redo the whole crossovers and found the unsatisfied result when there's no upgrading in bass SPL increasing anymore. Thus, I realized the 3.5-way system may correctly fix the problem.
Here is the simulation of the 3.5-way system that I randomly generated in simulation software.
I confess I don't have knowledge about the procedure or theory for building 3.5-way system. I simply add a second woofer with twice larger inductor on it, the 14mH coil.
And this is the comparison between 3-way and 3.5-way systems.
I would like to ask whether I did it correctly? And is the result (simulation graph) acceptable? I know the more accurate version should be from real measurement not simulation result, but this is the first step of learning. So, please try to understand.
However, I've been using them with an active subwoofer. Now I plan to stop using subwoofer and would like to listen to low-frequency from the main speakers. I removed subwoofer and found the bass wasn't enough, though I reckon these speakers sound flat.
I still have a pair of the woofers unused so I thought to add them to the system. In other words, the bookshelf speakers will be converted to floor-standing from now on.
The problem is I cannot easily add them without mod the crossovers. And I want to increase only low-frequency region. I finally need to convert them to 3.5-way system. In fact, I tried building them 3-way by typical way of adding the second woofer and redo the whole crossovers and found the unsatisfied result when there's no upgrading in bass SPL increasing anymore. Thus, I realized the 3.5-way system may correctly fix the problem.
Here is the simulation of the 3.5-way system that I randomly generated in simulation software.
I confess I don't have knowledge about the procedure or theory for building 3.5-way system. I simply add a second woofer with twice larger inductor on it, the 14mH coil.
And this is the comparison between 3-way and 3.5-way systems.
I would like to ask whether I did it correctly? And is the result (simulation graph) acceptable? I know the more accurate version should be from real measurement not simulation result, but this is the first step of learning. So, please try to understand.
Need help designing a simple flip flop for 12V trigger
- By RickRay
- Electronic Design
- 21 Replies
See the attached circuit circled in red. The circuit senses a signal and provides -12V for on and +12V for off, just the opposite of ICEPower modules. I am wanting to have the circuit provide +12V for on and 0V for off. A little more complicated than a simple flip flop. Any ideas? I can build a simple circuit on a breadboard and piggyback off the +-15V to power it.
