Hello everyone i'm new here

Im working on a hybrid 5 channel car amp called a Kicker CXA660.5 which has A/B audio rail power on the front/rear outputs and D audio rail power on the subwoofer channel. It appears to have two separate primary power supply circuits, one being for the A/B amp and other being for the D amp. The primary FETs for that sub amp side are blown and burned so badly that I cannot see the part ID, its a TO220 package for both parts, I compared it to a cx300.1 kicker amp and I think its supposed to have AOT460 FETs in those spots but not sure on that. Can anyone confirm if that is the correct part and if so what parts might be sufficient to replace the AOT460 since it comes up as obsolete and not available on digikey or mouser.

Looking to by a tube lab SE board or similar

Hi
I'm looking for a counter weight, headshell, cartridge and a lid for a Toshiba SR 300C
Thanks

I just made this preamp circuit, its performance is very good. But its gain is 37db and this is very high. What do I need to do to change gain? Or can I make variabke gain? I put a potentiometer on the output. This reduces the gain, but the his noise does not decrease.

For replace the speaker protection relays and main switch on rear panel I have in the moment two different PA150B on the desk. I would like to use this opportunity to provide a description of early modifications I made to this model between 2003 and 2010.

Outside images of this model with serial-No 2143031 (used main board EM1015 Rev7 or newer) are to find in image No 2-5 and No 7-9

In the attached schematic you will find also the preamp section - this means, it is the integrated amp version IA150B (EM1015, Rev0).
Unfortunately this schematic is not in all details identical to these devices of this model - but it is better than nothing.

I know two different PCB-versions, both with dual mono power supply (and both used for the integrated amp IA150B and power amp version PA150B) :

1) Mainboard EM1015 <rev.7 (offered 1997- 1999) for each channel with one BHC (Aerovox) T-Power elcap C25/C26 - go to image No 10 and No 11 and
https://www.dnm.co.uk/capbhc.html
and one usual elcap 10.000uF/63V C27/C28 (image No 12) in the kind of this under
https://www.rs-online.vn/p/capacitor-snap-in-series-158-10000uf-63v/8773715/
so as voltage regulators LM317/337 in a SO-8 outline behind the voltage doubler circuit for the front end (differential amp + VAS) of power amplifier.
Basic description under
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/blog/voltage-multiplier-circuit.html

2) Mainboard EM1015 rev7 (offered after 1999) without BHC T-Power for C25/C26 instead this also only two usual (same) elcaps like C27/C28 (image No 12) in the kind of this:
https://www.rs-online.vn/p/capacitor-snap-in-series-158-10000uf-63v/8773715/
so as voltage regulators LM317/337, now in a TO220 instead the SO-8 outline used in the previous PCB versions

In both versions it is important to perform modification steps as follow in order to increasing reliability and reducing thermal stress as to see in image No: 6 around the mentioned voltage regulators - in the attached schematic (first image) Reg 7 - Reg 10

1) Removing the voltage doubler circuit for the front end completely (because no space present for voltage regulator heat sinks in necessary sizes).
more details and consequences are to read in post #13 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/repair-thule-ia150b-no-sound-except-humming.303712/
BTW - this integrated amp from this topic use also the above mentioned main board versions.

2) Introducing an additional zobel network before relay switch contact (image 13-15, R15/C57 so as R115/C157 in the attached schematic diagram) are in real live not in use and the already present zobel network R220/221 and C204/205 on main PCB are behind the relay contact and only in operation when the speaker relay is switched on.

The additional modification step, which I had perform on main board EM1015 <rev.7, is as follow:
The BHC (Aerovox) T-Power elcap C25 and C26 was replace by the same usual elcap version as for C27 and C28. For getting similar sonic results as with BHC T-Power I introduce resistors 0R22 between C25 and C27 so as C26 and C28 (both in the "+" and the "-" rail) - check out images in post #2.
The main disadvantage of BHC T-Power caps was the very short life time. The excellent sonic performance with this caps was only present in the first few months of use and for this reason Thule Audio has decided to use usual Elcap versions from Rev. 7 onwards.

Hi all,

I'm trying to design a pcb for CS5381 saved from a broken soundcard. Previous attempt with a CS4272 was successful and this one looks similar, however there are a few pins that datasheet doesn't make it clear how to configure, so I could use your help with this.

1. Pin#12 I2S/LJ. I want I2S. I think it should go to VDD. Is this correct and does it need a pull up resistor?
2. Pin#2 M/S. I want slave mode. So, connect to ground? Pull down resistor necessary?
3. Pin#11 HPF. Low pass filter for DC offset correction. Unless you suggest otherwise, I don't need it for one ADC, one source application. Where to
connect it and how?

Also, I have a question about the low value resistors typically found in series with the I2S lines. I haven't used any with CS4272 with no obvious problems. Are these mandatory? I'm using them with DAC chips and there will be one on board for that matter. Could both ADC and DAC share the same resistors?

Attached CS5381 datasheet and pin out diagram.

Looks good - at least at first glance.
I couldn't find any negative reviews (except than the lack of room correction options).
Has anyone here heard the sonic performance?
Many thanks for any comments..

Manufacturer URL's:
https://www.eversolo.com
https://www.eversolo.de/policies/legal-notice
https://www.eversolo.de/products/eversolo-dmp-a8-digital-media-player-streamer

Various reviews in German and English language:
https://magnahifi.com/de/eversolo-dmp-a8-ultimate-streamer-dac-ak4499ex-ak4191eq/
https://hifi-suite.de/produkt/evers...m-768khz-wifi-bluetooth-5-0-aptx-hd-mqa-roon/
https://www.hifistatement.net/tests/item/3881-eversolo-dmp-a8
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...lo-dmp-a8-balanced-streamer-dac-review.55826/
https://www.stereophile.com/content/eversolo-dmp-a8-streaming-preamplifier
https://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2023...treamer-that-you-want-the-dmp-a8-by-eversolo/

k303 microphone pre amp kit with NE5532 op amp
breadboard, components and schematic.
I bought it from Taydaelectronics.com
Would like $4 plus shipping but I also don't want to throw away so I could go down to free+shipping.

Hi My name is Magnus. Im interested in tube amps and diy speakers. My current setup is Line Magnetic 211ia and css criton 1tdx speakers.

Sold​

Hello.
Up for sale a pair of cases for mono (or Stereo) amplifiers. Never used, never opened, in their original package.
Fully buit in aluminium in a "Goldmund" style I bougt them for a build I have to cancell.

You can find them at Aliexpress around 300/350€ plus customs.
I will sell them for 275€ shipping inclusive withing EU (+pp fees). Overseas, please, ask.

They are really good quality.

Outer Size: 235*180*366 mm + 40mm radiator
Inner working Size: 222*172*356 mm

Accesories included: switch button (no light) and rubber feets

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005007645252090.html?spm=a2g0o.imagesearchproductlist.main.9.3b0bsCussCuscg&pdp_npi=4@dis!EUR!180.41!171.39!!!1374.03!1305.33!@211b629217277225469158243e1edd!12000041636635661!sea!ES!4308662838!X&curPageLogUid=Nc1uSERdWXfR&utparam-url=scene:image_search|query_from😛c_web_image_search

Selling my upgraded LM-211ia :

• Purchased in January 2021, upgrades done in March 2021.
• Point to point wiring
• Tubes have around 800 hours
• Miflex KPCU-01 coupling caps, KFPM-01 on the input, Mundorf Mlytic.
• entire new rectifier with better diodes and larger caps plus some resistors changed along the way (the pictures show the upgrades probably better)

It’s equipped with Gold Lion KT-77 on the power stage and Gold Lion 12AU7/12AX7 on the input stage (over 300£ of upgrades).
Comes with original box, manual and remote control, pristine condition.
Selling as I've upgraded to a more powerful amp better suited for my speakers.

A listening session is recommended to appreciate the sound quality over the original setup (location: Sheffield, UK).
I want to avoid shipping if possible because of the weight (around 22kg) is a bit of a problem; shipping price is not included (estimated 20-30£ in UK).
Of course if you do need it shipped please contact me.

Review > http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/L...Magnetic-Audio-211IA-integrated-amplifier.htm

Full details here > https://www.line-magnetic.eu/en/pro...ificateur-intégré-push-pull-el34-2x32w-detail

The Line Magnetic integrated amplifier LM-211IA is a push pull amplifier with 4x EL34 tubes in Class AB amplification and delivers 2x15W in triode mode and 2 x 32W in ultra-linear mode.
Input stage: 2x 12AX7 and 2x 12AU7
Power stage: 4x EL34 (can be swapped with KT77 or 6CA7)
Specifications
Class AB amplifier
2x15W RMS Triode 2x32W RMS Ultra-linear
Tubes: 2x 12AX7, 2x 12AU7, 4x EL34
THD: 1% (1kHz)
Signal/Noise ratio: 88dB (Weighted A)
Frequency response: 10 à 50.000 Hz (-1.5 dB)
Sensitivity: 200 mV (Built-in Mode)
Input Impedance: 100kΩ

Asking price 900£

Hello from a longtime lurker, first time poster.

Hello Everyone! Just found this site & after reading some posts I'm looking forward to getting involved. A wealth of knowledge here! My setup hasn't been set up in a few years due to my living situation but I'm looking to change that soon! Thank you for letting me join! Bill

Looking to learn some new stuff around here after extensively modifying some Magnepan LRS and coming to the conclusion that they're probably not for me. I wanted something a little more full range and musical that didn't need a truck to power. Thanks!

My name is Pandjersore.
I want to learn about DIY audio from the experts and elders here.
Thank you...

Hello everyone, I'm a audio lover from Brazil that plans to learn a lot here so I can embrace the diy audio journey. I've already known the forum for a while, but from now on I intend to interact, and not only observe. To everyone in USA and Europe, be thankful that you are not in Brazil, because unless you are stupidly rich, this place is the nightmare of audiophile.

Recently picked up a CS 800S amp. One of the channel pots (potentiometer) does not work and is stuck at hi gain. I found a replacement pot but would like to know the best way to go about removing and replacing this component. Both pots are mounted on a verticle PCB and attached (soldered) to another PCB with individual wiring. Looks like the front can be removed but not sure about removing the pot dials. They are not budging.
Can anyone offer any help on the safest way to fix this without damaging the board?

A Box with 27 pieces 40 µF Foil Capacitors 1100V (1,1kV) Polypropylene for 240€. Smaller amounts maybe possible, but minimum are 10 piece.

They are from EPCOS (not EPCOS TDK ) 40uf 1100V 5%, 2+2pin connection. Dimension L= 57,5mm, W= 35mm, H= 50mm, Pitch 52,5, & 20,3mm, 4pol.
You can get the data sheet from Digikey.

https://www.digikey.at/de/products/detail/epcos-tdk-electronics/B32778G0406K000/1884958

Prices are exclusive PayPal and shipping costs. Shipping from Germany. PayPal is accepted, the additional 5% PayPal fee is borne by the buyer. Or payment via PayPal/friend and only the shipping costs apply. Shipping within the EU is easy, outside the EU the shipping costs vary depending on the country. Shipping mostly with DHL.

Hello all. I have scanned 10 pages of LXMini Crossover posts but I did not see any relating to my need, if I missed it I do apologize. Up until this afternoon I have been SO excited about a new build I am pulling together. The centerpiece is an active crossover that will drive 6 Purifi amps powering my beloved Spendor S100 3-way speakers. After much research, I decided that Nelson's LXMini crossover is just what I need, with an online calculator to allow me to change some resistors and caps to modify crossover points to mate with my speakers.

Then I thought "if only it could do single ended to balanced it would be perfect!" Perhaps unfortunately I found just that on the Linkwitz store website. It's called the Balanced LXMini - Sub R2, which I thought must be much the same as the LXMini +2 and the LXMini. All designed by Nelson Pass and all called LXMini. What could go wrong.

Well, today I reached the point of crossover assembly and soon realized that the crossover I have, although called LXMini, looks to be quite a different crossover. Not at all sure the LXMini online calculator will work with it to modify R and C values to work with my speakers. And if I can't adapt it to work with my speakers, it's useless. I contacted Frank at the Linkwitz store and he will not take it in return. He did say the crossover should be able to adapt for use on a 3-way speaker, but that he cannot help me.

Can anyone here help me to adapt this crossover for use? If it is like the LXMini, I should be able to change the values of a few resistors and caps and that is all it takes to modify it for my speaker's crossover points. But the boards look different, so not sure the topology is the same so that the LXMini online calculator applies. Also the component numbering is different so not sure which Rs and Cs on my board correspond to the Rs and Cs referenced by the online calculator. Here is what it looks like:

My B226 has difficulty to start playing a CD. Actually, it won’t start if I do not help it by gently moving the swing arm away from the spindle motor so that it can read TOC and start playing.

Here is how it behaves: when I insert a CD and press PLAY, disc will rotate clockwise for a second or two and then give up. Sometimes after rotating clockwise, it will stop and make a turn anticlockwise and stop. Observing the transport, when pressing PLAY, the swing arm will remain in the innermost position, not moving out of it to search and read TOC. When I press PLAY and move the laser a centimeter from the innermost position, it will begin searching, read the TOC and begin playing. The red laser light and lens movement can be observed.

Further observations and measured data:

Mechanical
- when powered off, the swing arm moves freely and will bounce once or twice when flicked with finger but it prefers returning to innermost position (flex cables)
- no dents or resistance can be felt when moving the swing arm with finger
- in service mode, step 1, the swing arm will not stay in middle position but will return to innermost position despite the offset compensation (-90mV in service mode, step 1)
- when going through service mode steps, swing arm moves faster to inner positions and slower to outside
- when moving to innermost position, swing arm often hits the end with a silent “clank!"

Electrical
- with no CD, offset of the radial motor is around zero V
- with CD inserted, offset of the radial motor is around 500mV in STOP
- in service mode, step 1, radial motor offset is set to -90mV to compensate for flex cable resistance (100mV is recommended maximum)
- swing arm voltages in service mode are symmetrical for same in and out deflections (minus the 90mV offset)
- focus motor voltage is within +/-50mV range in PLAY
- laser voltage is set to 200mV RMS
- focus amplifier is not hot to touch

Thank you in advance for your help.

This is a broken amp, it didn't work when I got it, the transformer was missing. After a period of repair and destruction (I connected the power supply wrong, fried two capacitors). I installed the correct transformer and replaced the new STK043 amplifier. Since the circuit diagram was not very understandable to me, I chose the AUX input which seemed to be the easiest to repair. Finally I got the output after the AUX input. But there was a popping sound on the right channel at first, and there was a bigger popping sound when turning the volume potentiometer. I cleaned the potentiometer and the resistance value was all right. When I turned the potentiometer, the popping sound decreased, and if I didn't turn it, it almost didn't pop, but it still appeared occasionally, and I found that there was a significant bass background noise, which was not there on the other channel. I have a signal generator and an oscilloscope, just now I input a 3V sin wave, it seems that the voltage is too high? The heat sink of the chip became very hot and there was no output signal anymore. I thought I burned it, but after cooling it down, it seemed to be fine. It was a false alarm. What can I do now?
Schematic diagram in the attachment。

Are there any studies, if the impedance of power supply feeding heater has any impact on distortion?
I assume here DC heating power supply.

In other words, is heater radiation always constant, no matter how much power is going via cathode and is cathode load impacting on the heater temperature ?

I finally got around to a refresh of the pre-build modeling that was needed for a system that I hope to create this winter. The motivation follows these lines:

• A woofer system that can operate up to ~300Hz
• At 300Hz the response pattern should be a dipole, so it can be crossed over to a dipole midrange
• At low frequencies, the output should be a monopole that can pressurize the room

This is achieved with two independently operated drivers located along the front-back axis of the speaker setup, and having a separation of around 30-40cm. A filter network causes phase/delay changes that result in a gradual pattern change as a function of frequency.

The attached plot shows how the pattern changes from a dipole at HF through hypercardiod and cardioid before reaching monopole at LF. I have seen this also done another way using two drivers: one is a monopole (for LF) and the other a dipole positioned directly above it. There is some overlap to their passbands in wihch a cardioid pattern is generated, but of course I want to do something different, right? Actually, the solution I am proposing has the advantage that you do not need to have a stack of two drivers, one on top of each other, to achieve the effect. Instead the system can be created using a low-slung box with both drivers firing upwards or front and back, as long as the separation between them remains at the correct distance. Also, both drivers can be used to generate LF output in my setup.

The only quirk is that, at frequencies below 100Hz, the outputs are in relative phase, but offset by one cycle. It will be interesting to see how that sounds. Based on what I know about group delay, I am skeptical that this will sound any different than a single source of the same SPL but hearing is believing...

Hello all,

my Monitor Audio RXW 12 subwoofer power supply is gone bad and I have isolated to a transformer unit being bad but struck identifying the correct ratings of the transformer to Replace the part iam attaching schematics and image of schematics. I would like to seek help from the forum to identify the correct ratings for the transformer any other details also will help.

Thanks
Raghu

I have a Cyrus iii (HA7A) on my workbench with crackling noise in the right channel. It looks like this:



The lower trace is the KILLPRE line which goes high (+5 V) when there is DC on the output but that does not happen here. There are cases when it does happen though. I observed this with both channels going silent but only the right channel having spikes:


Note that this image is very stretched out because of the very long acquitision time (20 minutes). The input signal is 500 Hz, the aliasing prevents showing the correct waveform of the sine wave but does show the spikes.

There seem to be SMDs that can be suspect but before I start poking around attaching my probe to possibly suspect transistors, are there any known suspects? Right now I am at the start of a lengthy sleuthing effort so anything to cut to the chase and replace the bad transistor.

Some might call me a glutton for punishment, but I have taken on one of these that’s sickly and that has even had modification attempts! I’m nearly at the point of digging into the power supply. It’s great to have schematics available online, but I’m struggling with identifying ZD12. It‘s labelled as a ZD20, but I’m clueless at exactly what that specific Zener is. Would anyone know?

The Boater's, IMO, are the best 'knock-off' for trimmer pots. One piece of Boater 3296 is like $0.15 to $0.25 CAD each whereas the Bourns are around $3.00 ea CAD.
Over several years I have come to trust the Boater's as a viable option.

You know when you get an amp or preamp project that takes forever trimming due to changes and repairs and modifications. You just keep on trimming that trimmer pot wondering when you'll kill it. I have had projects like that times over and I never took issue with these imitation trimmer pots.

It does get under my skin the fabricator clones the Bourns product. Why not just mold a slightly different body shape and color? Why copy that signature blue and text arrangement?
Greed...

Bourns on the left in all pics.

Hey guys,

I have build a couple of speakers so am not new to speakers and sound, but I am new to the nitty gritty details of aplifiers(electronics) on this level. I have just ordered two MA12070P boards from aliexpress. Im sure they are gonna work fine for the orgiginal intended purpose of 4 x 60(80)W outputs into 4 ohms. However, I would like a bit more power for my bas drivers (its a pair of active 2-way speakers using a ADAU1701 for the crossover work). I was considdering ordering a third board and use two of them bridged on for each for my bas drivers and split the last one for the fullrange drivers.
I have seen some talk of using these in PBLT mode for more power, i.e this guy here which unfortunately arent on the forum anymore..


However, after reading the datasheet of the chip: https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-MA12070P-DataSheet im starting to get confused. To me it seems bridging it will only increase the available power in 2 ohms:


Is my understanding correct that I will not gain any additional power in my 4 ohm bas driver setup by bridging the amp?
If so, is there any other way to increase the output? Or how are highpower class d amps made? I thought they just bridged multiple chips, but I guess not?

Thanks in andvance for answering my stupid questions xD

Best regards, Daniel

Before ordering direct, does anyone have a pair of Magna Risers they bought but decided not to use for the LRS+?

Figured I would ask here before buying direct.

Hi All,

I’m starting this thread to share a new project of a 4-way sealed speaker. It will use the following drivers:

• Tweeter: Peerless XT25SC90-04
• Mid High: HiVi Research DMB-A soft dome
• Mid Bass: Vifa P17WJ-00-08
• Woofers: Two Dayton Audio DC200-8 8” Classic woofers

The woofers will be mounted on the sides opposing each other. The driver selection wasn’t based on extensive research or data analysis - I simply listened to the mid-dome driver at a friend’s place and loved it, so I’m designing this speaker around it. Below are the SketchUp 3D models of the box:



The box will be 1050mm tall, 450mm deep, and 264mm wide on the outside. It will be built with 18mm MDF, with an additional 12mm layer of plywood or MDF on the sides. The midbass chamber will have approximately 11 liters, targeting a Qtc of 0.707. The woofers’ chamber will have about 65 liters, with a Qtc between 0.6 and 0.7.

The box will be veneered with two types of wood:



The sides will be finished with an Imbuia veneer, a typical Brazilian wood that resembles walnut. The front, back, and top will be finished with an ebony veneer. I’m not sure what type of wood the ebony veneer is, as it has been artificially darkened. I haven’t decided yet between a matte or semi-gloss finish, but I’m leaning towards matte. The design for the feet is still in progress.

My goals with this build are:

• Have fun building it. I’m well aware that designing a 4-way speaker isn’t easy, and I could have chosen a proven design. However, that would only challenge my woodworking and building skills, which isn’t my primary goal.
• My current 2-channel system uses a pair of Klipsch RP-6000F floorstanders. I’ll consider this build a success if it offers better soundstage, imaging, and clarity.

The build is already underway, and I’ll be updating this thread with pictures of the progress. Please feel free to contribute, offer criticism, ask questions, or even make fun of it! No hard fellings! 🤣

I came across this crossover image.
I believe R6, C5 and L6 are to reduce bass if the speaker is used in a corner. If the speaker is used elsewhere ie out from back wall and side wall could all these components be omitted.

Hi every one,



My ML-9 have a noise (like a hum with crackles) that I can hear in speakers, both channels.
I know it's 100Hz, not very loud.

Inside the box there is noise but seems to be normal I guess.

Nothing is vibrating.


From where should I start ?

Any clue is most welcome.


Thank's



Lars

Hi everyone I have decided to build the good amplifier for myself and share the knowledge with others because I have no any option available in my country that fits my budget.

If an open baffle speaker with large baffle has for example a +/- 45deg dispersion with the drivers horizontally centered, would that change if you moved all drivers over as close to the edge as possible? Or would the dispersion become asymmetrical? Something like -35/+55 deg?

These two drivers are not often used by DIY community so I decided to share some details and experiences.

I will start with Punktkilde, this 8" driver models well in 30-40 BR alignment. All looked good in the datasheet, low Le suggested this driver got good features, and the price was ok. I was surprised holding the drivers in my hands and seeing cone edge treatment, this was not visible in product photos. Basket looks identical to WF223BD, surround material is foamed rubber, similar to Seas or Dayton RS midwoofers. Cone material and the collor reminds me WF182BD09. Overall the build quality is great and I like neutral look of this driver so it easy to combine it with other drivers, in my case 12MU.

18W/8542-10 looks great as well, cone edge treatment is clearly visible, and all measurements I have seen (not much info is generally available for this driver) looked perfect. Whole rear side of the cone is treated with partially sticky lacquer. All of this promise excellent midrange qualities.

I plan to make the measurements in coming days-weeks.

looking for a pair of Purifi midrange drivers, PTT6.5M to build a system for my friend. Location should be inside EU to avoid additional shipping cost and import fee.

I am trying to use a simple online circuit simulator to help me understand the inner workings of the various FW designs. Figured I’d start with a simple design so starting with the F5 and specifically the simplified schematic of the F5 from Nelson’s intro to the design on page 10 here.

Something isn’t quite working right, would appreciate if anyone could help me out. I believe the schematic is editable by others.

https://everycircuit.com/circuit/6136255276122112

I have a pair of MA12p that are currently in Woden reflex boxes (c.18 liters). A year or so ago I did an experiment using these with the port sealed and crossed to a 12 inch woofer in a box of about 60 liters using a first order series cross over, and the results were quite good. The project was put on hold when I downsized and moved, but now I am ready to give this project a new life. The question I have is regarding the volume for the 12p using it as a sealed midrange (should the volume be reduced?). I had originally planned to cross it at about 200z, but i played around with components and wound up liking the 12p at around 300 and the 12 closer to 400. Thanks for your help.

Hi all,
I have a Creek Destiny amplifier that has a problem powering up from standby when it is first switched on. When I switch the power on at the switch at the back of the amp, the orange standby light comes on as it is supposed to, but when I try to power up, the light blinks once then goes back to standby. If I leave the amp for about five minutes in standby mode, it will power up OK. I think I have pinpointed the problem to a voltage regulator (1084 adj with heatsink). If the voltage regulator and heatsink are warmed up before it is switched on it will power up first time with no problem. Just wondering if anybody knows if warming up the voltage regulator can alter its output voltage or if there is something else going on that can be causing the problem. Also if anyone has a schematic for the Creek Destiny amplifier, it would be greatly appreciated as the protection circuit makes it difficult to work on.
Many Thanks - Nick

I'm not sure if the mosfets are died yet but just incase they are i would like to know how to match them with inexpensive equipment.
they are IRFP240


side note are theses different from each other

IRFP240PBF(here)​

IRFP240(here)​

they both take me to the same spec sheet is it just a name change?

thx for any help

I have for sale a Hakko 808 desoldering tool. It's used but in good working condition. Replaced by newer Hakko tool and so is redundant. Includes the original carrying case. $100 plus shipping, assuming PayPal friends & family.

I got a pair of Onkyo SKF-550F speakers for just under $20 today.

They work, however I wanted to install a proper 12 dB/octave two way crossover int hem to improve the sound.

The cap in series with the tweeter is 1.5uF and just as I suspected either the crossover is much higher than the 4kHz the manual lists or they used the cap value to lower the tweeter output by crossing it over real high either to better match it with the woofers or to reduce the increase in output near the crossover frequency caused by no inductor in series with the woofer.

I also found using a sinewave that the speaker seemed to play lower if the port was covered.

The specs of the speakers are as follows:

Impedance 8 ohms
Maximum input power 130 watts, but the individual woofers have 25 watts stamped on them so max power I'd feed them is 50 watts.
SPL 87.5dB 1W/m
Frequency response 60Hz-50kHz. There's no way these are only 3dB down at 60Hz unless mounting on the wall helps or the port is closed off.


Here's the woofers in series not in the cabinet.



Here's one woofer not int he cabinet



Here's the tweeter by itself.



What is the impedance of the woofers and tweeter?

The DATS V3 provides Re, minimum impedance and maximum impedance, but not nominal impedance.

In the past I've used Re for crossovers when the impedance was not known and that seemed to work ok.

The plan is to build a quick and dirty 6dB/octave crossover at 4.5kHz just to see if the tweeter is too loud. If it is not then I'll order or build a proper 12 dB/octave crossover.

Our XenForo hosting partners Audentio will be upgrading the forum software to XenForo version 2.3 (from 2.2) on October the 2nd.

Expect some downtime and general weirdness during that time.

This is a "minor" point version update that will have minimal visual impact, but a lot of code is changing behind the scenes. XenForo 2.3 lays the preparation for future improvements such as a new editor coming in 2.4 and new modern theme in 3.0, but in terms of things you may notice once we are on 2.3:

• Search autocomplete as you type into the search tool (easier searching)
• Better integration with Google for search results (better search results)
• Passwordless login using Passkeys (not sure if I'll turn these on as the jury seems to be divided regarding their value)
• Payment system integrations improvements which will make it a lot easier to start and stop recurring memberships and make the experience consistent between all forms of payment the same (nicer experience, more help for diyAudio to stay afloat)
• Performance improvements (faster website)
• Native webhooks (better integration between the forum, store, and mailing lists and other systems)

A number of initiatives are currently on hold while we have been waiting for the site to move to 2.3 (integrations between forum, store, and guides, memberships, sponsorship and marketplace improvements). We'll be focusing back on those once we are on the new code platform.

If you notice any bugs after the migration please post them in the XF2.3 bug reports thread.

The plastic feet that come with standard Modushop chassis certainly work fine as it, however, I felt it would be a useful endeavor to try some 3D printing designs that can be used as feet, or in conjunction with the included feet.

I have made a number of designs just to try them out and will post them all here in the first post as I get around to it.

For now, the first post is a TPU (Thermal Polyurethane) print design that fits inside the plastic feet that come standard with the chassis. The purpose of these is to add a small bit of isolation by adding this squishy material (the inside of the print is a gyroid infill, aka, not solid). The design also helps with alignment when using M3 bolts that go through the holes for the bottom plate attachment, and add a few millimeters of height (the height could easily be adjusted if more space underneath is desired). The feet then are part of the bottom plate attachment and don't require drilling any additional holes. 3MF files are attached in the ZIP file. You'll need to use a longer M3 pan head bolt than what comes with the chassis kit (a washer could be helpful too).

If you don't have a 3D printer and want to get a set, I'm happy to print them out and provide at my cost plus shipping ($1 for the four feet, plus shipping).

More designs to come.....






Below is another design that is functional as a foot on it's own showing what the gyroid infill looks like. 3 "walls" plus 15% gyroid infill for those who know what "slicing" is. I'll add this design once I take a few picture of how to insert the fender washer I've designed into the print.

Hi there,


Steve

Have been using the probes that came with my Siglent 1104 X-E scope. love the scope, perfect for what I need. The probes suck. Poor ground connection from the cable to the probe body. Lots of intermittent power line noise.

So, looking for a quality probe that's not too expensive. While I like the 1x-10x convenience, if the price is right, I could go with 4 1x and 4 10x, likely more reliable.
I would like a dedicated 10x probe to reach 500 volts, but not absolutely necessary.

What has been your experience? what would you recommend?

I am an experienced user and have used scopes and probes from many manufactures, but don't know much about today's market.

It sounds good, it sound better: is it always personal preference or even ability of your hearing?

I think that someone in good health when listening to music from a system should have two judgments about the related SQ, one related to an impartial evaluation and another one related to a personal preference.

impartial evaluation = It sounds good, but I don't like it.

Personal preference = It sounds bad, but I like it.

Just like when you taste food.


Please note that I would like it if we could demonstrate for once that we can approach the subject in a rational, but not Manichean, way.

I do not want to discuss about alleged absolute truths in Audio, but to possibly recognize a different way of approaching and sharing experiences related to listening to recorded music reproduced through an audio system.


Edit to add:

In this thread it is not appreciated to talk about instrumental measurements because this thread is not and does not want to be the usual thread of controversy and opposition between the two usual factions that "fight" each other.

The purpose of this thread is, if possible, to create a new value regarding the human capacity to use one's senses not only in a private and singular way, but with a meaning of shareability.

There are things you can only measure with your senses.
Examples of such cases where there are no tools to identify quality, but only our senses, would be appreciated.

Examples about the so-called "preferences" that some refer to would also be appreciated, since in my view they represent a rather nebulous concept for me, so comments listing one or more possible preferences in listening to a complete audio system would be welcome.

Furthermore, while the so-called golden ears may very well be people more gifted than average, they could instead be simply people more educated (and possibly also able to teach) to listen critically to the sound message that comes out of a complete audio system.
What I would like to refer to are the latter.

Hello all, I have a Kenwood DP2080 CD player that I picked up at my local tip shop. It was not working properly. I have been trying to troubleshoot the problem for quite a while. The service schematic for the unit is available on HiFi Engine but I can post here if need be. When you power the unit on, the display lights momentarily, the laser unit moves slightly and the disc spindle tries to spin. Then it all goes dead but standby light remains on. Some of the voltages on the board are not right. Most perplexing is that the voltage at the main fuse that links to Q11 (regulator) should be 11.5 V but does not always show this value. It is often 14.4 V at power up but value changes if I turn the spindle on the laser unit. It can vary from 7.6 V to 14.4 V. I have removed and tested a lot of the electrolytic caps (but not ceramics) in the vicinity of Q11 and they all seem OK. I have also tested most of the transistors and they also seem OK. Same for the resistors and diodes. Pin 64 (power supply) on the big NEC IC reads 5 V which is correct. Pin 57 (Vpre) reads -3.4 V (should be -6 V) while pin 56 (Vload) reads -35 V (should be -30 V). I have read the recent thread on the Kenwood DPSG7 (posted by Spacebiscuit with input from Mooly) which had similar issues. The DP2080 is a much more basic unit. Any help greatly appreciated.

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model S513i “pastoral”, current-mode control amplifier with remote.
model S514i “rhapsody”, dual monaural power amplifier. (eqv S505i)





●model S513i control amplifier with remote
- 3 line input (2 x current/0 ohm 1 x voltage/20kohm), 1 line output (current)
- LED indication (1/red, 2/green, 3/blue)
- dimension 202 x 202 x 45 mm

• +10 dB current amplifier to drive power amplifier efficiently
• 32 steps, electronic control attenuator (output current limiter)

-> binary 2^9 bit encoded current divider (similar to DAC) with micro-controller
AC100-120/220-240V linear power supply (built-in)
- no operation button except power switch

remote commander: rotary volume, line input select (cigarette box size)

●model S514i dual monaural power amplifier
- current-mode input x 1, impedance 0 ohm
maximum 25 watt

• dimension 102 x 202 x 50 mm
• no operation button except power switch

AC100-120/220-240V linear power supply (built-in)


sound impression :
very real, rich, full-bodied, smooth reproduction.
can enjoy musical tone
wide dynamic range, well balanced bass to treble, overtone-rich
correct phase, wide stereophonic
this sounds like a tube amp
these amps have less non-linear stages, the sound is open and no suppression.

Hey all,

Purchased this here but never got to it.
Original post: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...mplifier-partially-built.401063/#post-7395931

$250 shipped CONUS

Hello..

My name is Ryan from Indonesia.

First of all, i have soooo little experience about diy loudspeaker, i'm not a professional and i have limited tools and resources.. and my english is not good either

I'm Currently building floorstanding speaker with the woofer SB16PFCR25-08 And tweeter SB26ADC-C0004

The drivers are chosen because it is affordable and produced in my country indonesia, so it is an advantage for me..

I built the cabinet with MDF
The cabinet front baffle width is 20cm, with 35cm depth and 85cm tall.

The baffle thickness is 36mm (Double 18mm MDF)

I have measure the raw frequency response of the drivers, measurements done with omni mic (not calibrated) i'm aware that it is not 100% accurate, but i think i may get the idea with it.

The measurements are 4ms gated and is done in my living room, the speakers was on top of a chair


The pink one is the woofer
The green one is the tweeter
Without any crossover

The issue is 3khz dip on the tweeter response..

What cause this?

Is this because of the tweeter diffraction? The tweeter is not flush mounted, but the side baffle are rounded..

Is the baffle thickness of the tweeter affect this? because it is 36mm i have no idea whether it is too thick or not.. and the tweeter cabinet is separated from the woofer.

Thank you for responding. I really need help because i don't have anyone near me to be ask this kind of questions...

Looking for two equal-rated 1/2W Shinkos in the range indicated above. Possibly 1W works as well.

Your offers are much appreciated.

After a move, my trust Klein MM400 is giving me wonky readings. When testing resistance, it shows some changing numbers, then flashes OL, then some random values, etc. What could be happening?

Hello again.
I'm looking for a replacement for the TLC2272CP integrated circuit.
This for repairing a Kurzweil PC1x keyboard.
Does anyone know of a good drop in part?

A rare opportunity, 50pieces EL8 pentode tubes VALVO August 1951. Manufactured by Valvo in Hamburg-Lokstedt. These tubes are small pentode power tubes. Can be used very well as drivers for the AD1 or 300B. One of the best power pentode tubes that Valvo has ever produced. Asking 11€ / piece min Order 10 pieces

https://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Leserbriefe/Marcus Gedanitz-300B-Amp/300B-Beschreibung.htm

Prices are exclusive of PayPal and shipping costs. Shipping from Germany. PayPal is accepted, the additional 5% PayPal fee is borne by the buyer. Or payment via PayPal/friend and only the shipping costs apply. Outside the EU they vary depending on the country. If you are interested, send me a PM.

Hi all! I'm looking for some advice for designing and building a speaker that fits a modular system we're developing. It needs to be a 14x14x14 enclosure built with plywood. Thinking full range, and ideally with integrated amp. Do you know of any reference plans and drivers I could use as starting point?

Thanks!

Hi there - looking forward to learn more about speaker design and build in this forum!

Hi guys, I signed up because I need help with a DIY amp. I hope to get it here 🙂

Best regards
Prism

Hey guys, I'm here to ping pong ideas on a horn loaded sub 🙂

I have some of these for sale. Perfect for those with a nostalgia towards replicating old amps.

Or maybe just for repair of same.

Regards
R

Greetings from the Netherlands,
I've been a member for years, and enjoyed all the great informatie here. Playing around with tube amps and turntables. Looking for information on Audiocraft tonearms.

Have created 3 DSP constructions with PCBs and all, based on other older schematic/pcb tool, which worked right out of the box.

Now turned to KiCad, for which I have made a working ADAU1452, but now the latest small ADAU1701 did not work at all, and for sure can't figure out why!

I have not been able to write any program from SigmaStudio to the board. It returns right away with error.
I'm using the Wondom ICP3 as a programmer. It gives 3.3V signal out. Was firstly afraid that removing the 3V3 zeners on the programming lines that I have used before was the reason, and the chip was burned!

One mistake has been that the voltage out of the TPS5430DDA was less than the stated 3.3V and more like 3.0V. When connecting the programmer the DSP chip got warmer!!
I have corrected this on the second board I have gotten from JLCPCB before connecting. But the problem still remains.

Clock is running as it should.

What have I done wrong I wonder?

I'm planning to make an updated version, with the following changes, but I'm a bit afraid I have overlooked something obvious and it simply will not work again. I have no reason to believe the pcb is wrong. Running all design rule checks etc. and KiCad is a solid tool .....

• Will replace the TPS5430DDA with a AMS1117-3.3, as the TPS5430DDA is overkill for this small build, and I'll have 3V3 right out of the box
• The muting circuit will not work as is .... way to simple. Need something like a TVL809
• XL7015E1 decal not correct ... it should be TO252-5 NOT TO-263-5

Any insights would be appreciated before I do a new spin 🙂🙏

Hi All

I want to try to make a DIY DAC on TDA1305 (I have the original desoldered from a damaged recorder)
I want to make a DAC with I2S input (I have two USB cards to I2S - one with a 12MHz PCM2706 clock, the other is a Chinese XMOS)
I have a question about the TDA1305 pin configuration
Tell me if I see it correctly (for simplicity - I treat all +5V supply voltages as one, GND the same)

PIN n° function dataseet connection
pin1 +V +V
pin2 gnd gnd
pin 3 test1 to gnd
pin4 bck to USB/i2S
pin5 ws to USB/i2S
pin6 data to USB/i2S
pin7 CLKS1 to gnd
pin8 CLKS2 to gnd
pin9 gnd to gnd
pin10 +V +V
pin11 test 2 to gnd
pin12 SYCCKLI to USB/i2S
pin13 NC NC( not connected)
pin14 NC NC
pin15 gnd to gnd
pin16 SYSCLKO NC
pin17 DEEM1 to gnd
pin18 DEEM2 to gnd
pin19 MUSB to +V
pin20 DSMB to +V
pin21 ATSB to +V
pin22 out see dataseet
pin23 out see dataseet
pin24 out see dataseet
pin25 out see dataseet
pin26 Vref via C to gnd see dataseet
pin27 gnd to gnd
pin28 +V +V


Is this configuration correct?

Which interface to use? 12MHz or 24Mhz (xmos)


Attached is the schematic and datasheet



Thanks for your help

Helo im Aldi from Indonesia, starting love to do DIY speaker stuff.
I hope I can find lot of experience here 🙂

hello everyone my name is austin and i'm 17, my hobby is making guitar pedals. I'm also keen on assembling some power amps to power said pedals.

I found this picture on Pinterest about a design made/discussed here on this forum.

Can someone point me to the thread?
I'm very interested in the design.

Hi,

So I have a pair of Fountek Neo X3.0 ribbon tweeters.

I have an 8ch DAC so I'm going to do a software crossover (CamillaDSP)

Which "Aliexpress grade" type of amp should I get to drive these ribbon?

I have some TPA3255 and also TDA8932 boards. If I need to I'll happily spend a wee bit to get a more suitable amp.

I got two 80uf film caps to help protect them.

Thanks!

Hello all,
I signed up on the forum years ago to lurk etc. but I find myself in need of assistance from a member of the community so I would like to be able to contact them from the conversation option.
For a non-techy person I’ve found the forum very informative.
Regards,
Bell Ringer

I am looking to share and gain knowledge on Valve/tube amplifiers and eventually build my own modern radiogram but resembling the 65's era one

Hello All,

I have a tube 3 12 ax7 phono RIAA with a cathode follower final stage, followed by Goldpoint 23 kohms resistor volume control (Holco resistors) and selector switch.

It is driving my Belles MB200 power amplifiers which have a 100 kohms input impedance .

Interconnect is the Nordost Red Dawn 1,5 m.

Is it a good impedance match?

I am considering potentially changing the volume control with transformer volume control (SAC Thailand STA 522 or Music First).

Any recommendation are highly appreciated.

Thank you

Improvements to the 4*118W / 8Ohm chip from TI with I2S input.

Possible that this has been out there for some time, however I noticed just now the TAS6684 on the TI pages, initial specs seem to be the same, but certain aspects are improved like the ability to handle up to 13A current where the TAS6584/82 designs has a maximum limit of 10A so a 30% improvement.
The publicly available information is very limited as it is not yet in production with extremely limited availability.


Nice to know that it is pin compatible with the TAS6584:


The one thing that is completely new with the TAS6684 seems to be: "Real-time temperature monitor for each channel"
Other than that there is a difference in the maximum output switching frequency, which is 2.1MHz for the "old" TAS6584, and slightly lower 2MHz for the new TAS6684.

Summary:


https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tas6684-q1.pdf
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tas6584-q1.pdf

Hi,
I guess this introduction is very VERY long overdue (registered in 2004, yikes).

DiyAudio has always been the source of great knowledge with a great community for me - and time after time I have learned that community is more important than anything else. When I was younger, electronics was my "passion" and I always preferred to disassemble some old amplifier/radio to football classes. In the end, I chose a different career path in my life (SW developer), but I was always fiddling with some electronic projects on the side, mostly DIY amplifiers but also SMPS audio power supplies and sometimes even speaker boxes and room audio discussions.

Yet, I never found the need to add something to the threads themselves - there were usually multiple people well more qualified already answering all the questions and having great suggestions. I usually dwelled in old, long-forgotten threads more than the new projects.

Yesterday I stumbled upon group buy post about another EOL transistor - seemingly the last good VAS pairs - and I told my self, well, it's now or never, but I couldn't reply. And then it hit me why, shame on me!

So please,
Accept my apology & long overdue introduction to this great community.

Brand new, unused pair of X-10SF opt suitable for 211 ad 845 tubes. In factory boxes with factory tags yet to be attached. Very rare to find in this condition

X-10SF's are in Australia from where they will be carefully packed and shipped.

Price is at AUD$4000 (approx USD$2700) for the pair-shipping form Australia is excluded.

Weird title, but couldn't think of what else to call it. I want to build a clipping indicator that works in reverse of typical: instead of turning an LED on when clipping, it would turn the LED off. Don't even know if it's been done already.

I have a clipping circuit I've used a few times before, and hoping to modify it to work in this reverse function, I just don't know enough about electronics to do it.

I'm starting with the "Bilateral Clipping Indicator" circuit, published in The Audio Amateur 3/73 issue (article scan attached below):



I know this works for a single polarity:



But I don't know how (or if) that scheme can be applied to both polarities of the original circuit "bilateral" ness.

Can anyone help with tips and advice, steer me in the right direction, or even a better circuit than the one I'm working with?

Thanks!

Here I am after 1 year, sharing my first audio project: The AudioXtreamer


GitHub - eltortugo/audioxtreamer: ASIO driver, Usb Driver, FX2LP Firmware, VHDL Fpga, Schematics & PCB Layout for the AudioXtreamer, a USB 2.0 32ch Audio/Midi interface for retrofitting into digital mixers/interfaces.
It replaces the obsolete mLan firewire connectivity with a usb 2.0 interface and adds 2x adat ports for future expansion to the i88x.


The project includes:

• ASIO dll (TortugASIO) in C++
• AudioXtreamer UI/Driver audio and midi backend in C/C++
• AudioXtreamerPCB baseboard to connect the Yamaha 01x and the FPGA (eagle sch/pcb)
• FPGA/VHDL implementation for the ZTEX board.

Any feedback will be appreciated 😀

Up for sale a miniDSP 2X4 board plus 2X HiFimediy CS4398 DAC's. Only one is pictured but there are two, both with volume control daughter boards and cables. One DAC is unused the other was wired up once (literally). Was for an active speaker system but if it was going to happen, it would have happened by now 🙂.
The nanoDigi software is not supported by miniDSP but you can download and run on W10 just fine. $350 AUD or $250 USD. Boards are located in Melbourne Australia

https://hifimediy.com/product/hifimediy-cs4398-dac-direct-out-tcxo-oscillator/

I am referring to a pair of this board that have been on sale on the Store at 9 USD. I missed the deal thinking I already had them... well I don't. 😳

It is the last bit I miss for this project and I have the feeling that the Store has no plans to bring them back.

If you bought an extra pair while they were on sale and are still unpopulated, I would be happy to put them in use. Delivery address to either US or EU can be provided. 🙏