The Pass Monster?

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Actually, I was at a surplus store in Florida a few years back that had a GIANT knife switch. i mean this thing had to be at least 36" long and 24" wide and had a geared handle mechanisim that would spin up a flywheel system that would slam the contacts closed and latched once the handle got all the way down. really cool device!

ZIIIIPPPP CLACK!

I think i sat there for at least 15 minutes playing with the thing. i should have bought it but it was expensive and HEAVY and i was leaving on a plane in a few hours. would have made a KILLER movie prop. I wish i would could have at least taken a photo of the thing. never seen another one like it. I mean it was BIG!

Maybe that should be my next project, duplicate that thing....

Zc
 
Mark A. Gulbrandsen said:
Heatsink plates.... geez, this thing barks for water cooling.....

Mark


kilowattski said:
I agree Mark. Because of the shear size, this project is definately screaming water cooling. It may be cheaper in the long run.


HMMMMM now you guys have me thinking, maybe a auto heater core or motorcylce radiator would work for the heat exchanger. Would have to figure out how to make the heatsink plates.

OHHH wait, outboard cooling towers!! YEAH!!!! a large box with dual velocity stacks on it hahahahha

HMMM 1000 watts a channel class A anyone???? MMMWHAHAHAHHAHAHA


:devilr:
 
diyAudio Editor
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Just search out Grey's threads on the subject. He has a simple and great method to make the heatsink plates.

You just solder a piece of copper pipe along the long edge of a piece of say 1/8" thk. copper plate. Drill the plate for some output devices.
You will need quite a few of these....and a car radiator probably.
Whoops, I gave it away!


I agree- a cooling tower the same proportions as the mono super-blocks

ALTHOUGH a parabolic shape like they use for nuclear power plants would be hip too.
 
imix500 said:
Yup, pretty easy. Built my own a/c unit with about 1300w of peltiers and a surplus hydraulic cooler.

Why tangle with a clunky old car or motorcycle radiators? I think imix500 is right on target. All that would be needed to cool the water coming out of the amp is a few surplus peltier coolers. They are real cheap on Ebay too. Best of all is that they are totally silent. No fan sound to tangle with. Have a look at the ebay page: http://search.ebay.com/peltier-cooler_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8 . They are really cheap.
 
Fan?
Who said anything about a fan?
Jeez, might as well used forced air cooling.

Grey

P.S.: It's just my personal preference, but I'd rather that this thread not rehash all the same old silly arguments and counter-arguments that pop up every time someone starts a water-cooling thread. People get really, really wound out on all sorts of supposed problems with water cooling without once having tried it.
I've done it. It's cheap (assuming that you do it my way). It works.
...And it looks cool, too.
What's not to like?
That's not to say that I think this project should or should not be water cooled. That's not my department. Talk to them whats in charge of the chassis and assorted metalworking.
Just don't try to fix what ain't broken.
 
Hmmmm. I wonder if i could take several of those peltier devices apart and mount them on a flat aluminum plate on the cold side then mount the devices on the plate?

maybe 3 or 4 of these per side would do the trick? super cool the mosfets. I wonder how even the temps would be across the whole 28" long length.

Zc
 
GRollins said:
Fan?
Who said anything about a fan?
Jeez, might as well used forced air cooling.

Grey

P.S.: It's just my personal preference, but I'd rather that this thread not rehash all the same old silly arguments and counter-arguments that pop up every time someone starts a water-cooling thread. People get really, really wound out on all sorts of supposed problems with water cooling without once having tried it.
I've done it. It's cheap (assuming that you do it my way). It works.
...And it looks cool, too.
What's not to like?
That's not to say that I think this project should or should not be water cooled. That's not my department. Talk to them whats in charge of the chassis and assorted metalworking.
Just don't try to fix what ain't broken.


I agree, it's not our call. At this point we should drop it and keep our mouths shut. The suggestions have been made and now it is up to Zero and Swarmy to make up their minds. It's their project.
 
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Yup. Peltiers don't do much to help. All they do is transfer the heat-but wait! where does the heat go? well, nowhere, unless you have lots of heatsinks attached to the peltier. You should need just as many heatsinks with or without a peltier...But wait! Those peltiers-they are really inefficient! so you have to get rid of even MORE heat. So now you have to have More heatsinks or water cooling to cool the mosfets AND the peltier heat. I really think the water cooling is the way to go, and you will certainly need a car radiator, something similar from a heatpump or from a building HVAC fancoil unit. And prob a low speed fan- that cooling tower to suck air through the radiator might do it- you can always add a fan....

Or don't use water but you're gonna need $5,000 worth of heatsink...
Its the radiators that save you money!

:bigeyes:
 
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Sorry- can't help myself: I'm thinking about an Aleph 2. Don't those have about 100 watts output per channel? And Nelson has 5 sides covered with what looks like about 1.5" heatsink. Well, he's a conservative guy (electrically I mean :D ) so maybe 4 sq, ft will do.

So doesn't that mean 40 sq ft of heatsink per channel? The advantages of the cooling tower seem bigger now- Yes put a fan in it- a slowed down attic fan! And good thing its a separate tower: make sure to put it on wheels to get it out of the house!!:devilr:
 
Several of these handle 10-15kw worth of power in argon laser supplies used them in my a/c unit.
 

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