Hoping to get the main part of the build done this weekend, as it the first clear weekend without familt dutys I've had for ages.
Found the source of my panels bieng out, my cross cut saw had some flash on one side of the 90deg locator, that wore the plastic locator, not much of a problem when used normaly, but when used in sliding mode its off about 3/4mm.
Course I only checked it in static mode!
I want to start finishing so no more delay.
Found the source of my panels bieng out, my cross cut saw had some flash on one side of the 90deg locator, that wore the plastic locator, not much of a problem when used normaly, but when used in sliding mode its off about 3/4mm.
Course I only checked it in static mode!I want to start finishing so no more delay.
Quick update,
cabinets almost ready for final side to be glued on. Made a brace for driver magnet, started lining with baf. Again I have photographed most of the steps, will update as soon as I get chance.
Must appologies for the time its taking, one of the bigest problems with cabinets of this size is not having a workshop, and having to cary them in and out to do any work. It is now a two man job.
cabinets almost ready for final side to be glued on. Made a brace for driver magnet, started lining with baf. Again I have photographed most of the steps, will update as soon as I get chance.
Must appologies for the time its taking, one of the bigest problems with cabinets of this size is not having a workshop, and having to cary them in and out to do any work. It is now a two man job.
Hi,
a few more details of the build, which is still continuing, just with work, the flu and British weather has unfortenatley slowed down.
After suggestions from Dave and info on other posts below is my magnet brace, designed to spread the forces away from the baffle to the rear and side walls. As I was making 2 I first made a jig out of 6mm MDF and routed the actual braces (hence the little nick where I wasn't watching my router 100%.
a few more details of the build, which is still continuing, just with work, the flu and British weather has unfortenatley slowed down.
After suggestions from Dave and info on other posts below is my magnet brace, designed to spread the forces away from the baffle to the rear and side walls. As I was making 2 I first made a jig out of 6mm MDF and routed the actual braces (hence the little nick where I wasn't watching my router 100%.
Attachments
Here I've started adding the fluff (wadding), its not actually BAF, but the standard polyester wadding from my local habberdashery store. I've got a couple of different thickneses, just to experiment with. The idea is to have only half the total internal surface covered, with each pair of opposing sides consisting of an uncovered and covered face. directly behind the driver and area's I suspect will be more prone to reflections I've used 8oz, other area's I've used 4oz.
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marce said:
Your attention to detail that will never be seen but most likely audiable is remarkable. Your set is likely to set a reference standard for others to follow.
I listen to my uncurved Chang (G Chang, as Dave calls it) everynight and I may have to build another one, this time with attention to detail as u have outlined.
gychang
Thank you for the comments.
I am now approaching this as a prottype build (dont let my missis know), and am trying to record as much of the pertinent info
as I can in pictures. As reading a lot of posts there is a lot of info, but mostly in words, which can be confusing if you dont understand the concepts.
A large part of my job is making things so they can be manufactured, including instructions etc, so I apply the same disiplines to any thing I build myself.
My beloved has a diffenent opinion, as she wants things done!
Dave gave me the pointers for how to brace a speaker, I just think the triangular section looks better than holes, and has some mechanical benefit in guiding (steering) forces.
The idea for the stuffing is a further development of your advice Scott on only covering one side, top etc. I was stood in Boyes ( a shop that sells everything)
looking at the selection of wadding, when I got the idea of going further and trying different grades. Having origionaly over stuffed my 166 BLH's
I learnt the hard way that to much stiffles the sound, and less (or just right) is best.
Must admit I'm having great fun, and learning loads (bracing EnABLE etc).
On the subject of bracing, I must admI'm going to be wiring up over the next couple of nights (or I'll forget and glue it all up, have a look where the wires come out of the FE166's!!)
and would appreciate some advice, ie do I run seperate pos and neg leads or do I keep then twisted.
I am now approaching this as a prottype build (dont let my missis know), and am trying to record as much of the pertinent info
as I can in pictures. As reading a lot of posts there is a lot of info, but mostly in words, which can be confusing if you dont understand the concepts.
A large part of my job is making things so they can be manufactured, including instructions etc, so I apply the same disiplines to any thing I build myself.
My beloved has a diffenent opinion, as she wants things done!
Dave gave me the pointers for how to brace a speaker, I just think the triangular section looks better than holes, and has some mechanical benefit in guiding (steering) forces.
The idea for the stuffing is a further development of your advice Scott on only covering one side, top etc. I was stood in Boyes ( a shop that sells everything)
looking at the selection of wadding, when I got the idea of going further and trying different grades. Having origionaly over stuffed my 166 BLH's
I learnt the hard way that to much stiffles the sound, and less (or just right) is best.
Must admit I'm having great fun, and learning loads (bracing EnABLE etc).
On the subject of bracing, I must admI'm going to be wiring up over the next couple of nights (or I'll forget and glue it all up, have a look where the wires come out of the FE166's!!)
and would appreciate some advice, ie do I run seperate pos and neg leads or do I keep then twisted.
Yeah, just rap on it and listen. Not good, is it? And that's just sonically, never mind the health-issues. See Dilbert's conversion of words into advertising-speak below.
I'd be inclined to have them twisted internally, although that's more in case you're running an unshielded driver. I doubt you'd hear a difference to be honest.
I'd be inclined to have them twisted internally, although that's more in case you're running an unshielded driver. I doubt you'd hear a difference to be honest.
Attachments
Cheers Scott.
I was looking at all the crud I have to clean of my tools, sort of compacted, burnt dust!! Not realy wood. I was also chiselling some shapes out, I could do it by hand and peel the inner layers out. The nearest analagy is like toilet paper thats got wet and dried.
Dogbert has been on form this week
EDIT!
I'm not an expert in wet toilet paper by the way its just my son thinks it hilarious to dip them in the bath then throw them at the tiles so they stick, usually where you cant see them till they've dried.
I was looking at all the crud I have to clean of my tools, sort of compacted, burnt dust!! Not realy wood. I was also chiselling some shapes out, I could do it by hand and peel the inner layers out. The nearest analagy is like toilet paper thats got wet and dried.
Dogbert has been on form this week
EDIT!
I'm not an expert in wet toilet paper by the way its just my son thinks it hilarious to dip them in the bath then throw them at the tiles so they stick, usually where you cant see them till they've dried.
No the braces are offset by the width of the material, the dowel hole in the rear panel in post #167 is dead centre. I didn't want to do more on the magnet brace, I was worried (probably unessesary) about the offset forces on the magnet and speaker cradle.
As I said earlier having now seen some BB-ply I want to re-build these in that material, but this time with a bit more thought and engineering. I would also run a vertical, or two vertical braces, offset either side of the centre all the way to the magnet brace, again using trainular shapes to give maximun bracing, maximum holes, minimum material.
I also have had a problem with finishes, the satin black paint I've got seems to react with the water based MDF sealer ( though I tend to be rather liberal with MDF sealer), when I tried it on bare MDF it went on beautifully, when it was sealed it was like painting with tar, it just dragged.
Must admit EnABLE has come a the right time, apart from the sonic benefits its got a real art deco look about it, should go well with the CC's.
right I'm off to do some wiring up, i think for reduced capacitance seperate runs would be best, I just dont fancy untwisting the cable.
EDIT.
just had another look at the picture, going to check when I get home but I think I've only offset by half the material thickness
As I said earlier having now seen some BB-ply I want to re-build these in that material, but this time with a bit more thought and engineering. I would also run a vertical, or two vertical braces, offset either side of the centre all the way to the magnet brace, again using trainular shapes to give maximun bracing, maximum holes, minimum material.
I also have had a problem with finishes, the satin black paint I've got seems to react with the water based MDF sealer ( though I tend to be rather liberal with MDF sealer), when I tried it on bare MDF it went on beautifully, when it was sealed it was like painting with tar, it just dragged.
Must admit EnABLE has come a the right time, apart from the sonic benefits its got a real art deco look about it, should go well with the CC's.
right I'm off to do some wiring up, i think for reduced capacitance seperate runs would be best, I just dont fancy untwisting the cable.
EDIT.
just had another look at the picture, going to check when I get home but I think I've only offset by half the material thickness
marce said:
perfect
John (aka MJL21193) seems to have had some good experiences with finishing his new speakers. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=106736
Any particular colour choice?
dave
I dont think I got the offset quite right, what I did was measure my centre line and use that to line up one edge of the braces, so I think I've only offset half of the material thickness, which now worries me a bit as I have a panel supported by an edge down its center line !
Colour choice, Hmmm
High contrast between the cone and the pattern, would be my choice, black cones gold pattern would be my first choice, it will stand out, thus easy to see on. The other beauty would be the hours of endless fun I will have trying to explain what the EnABLE pattern is and what it does. Even unfinished the first thing visitors notice is two rather large speakers, so finished in thier full Art Deco clothing should create quite an effect.
Plus the EnABLE pattern being clearly visible will make the driver the focus of the whole speaker.
The CC text I am putting on the deflectors is going to be in an enamel "gold leaf" paint on matt black.
Colour choice, Hmmm
High contrast between the cone and the pattern, would be my choice, black cones gold pattern would be my first choice, it will stand out, thus easy to see on. The other beauty would be the hours of endless fun I will have trying to explain what the EnABLE pattern is and what it does. Even unfinished the first thing visitors notice is two rather large speakers, so finished in thier full Art Deco clothing should create quite an effect.
Plus the EnABLE pattern being clearly visible will make the driver the focus of the whole speaker.
The CC text I am putting on the deflectors is going to be in an enamel "gold leaf" paint on matt black.
There was talk in the ENABL thread about the reason Matte paint is better is because it is heavier, it has more bits in it.
What about solder paste sealed with some ultra low surface tension adhesive?
The great thing about the solder paste is there is equipment available to dispense it in identical, microscopic amounts. You just need to make a rectangular nozzle.
What about solder paste sealed with some ultra low surface tension adhesive?
The great thing about the solder paste is there is equipment available to dispense it in identical, microscopic amounts. You just need to make a rectangular nozzle.
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