Curvy Chang thread

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Gluing the first deflector, once a side was glued I was surprised how stable the semi-clad CC was.

Veneer arrived, 4 sheets of very nice sycamore, so I can book-match the fronts, and I may have enough to do the deflectors and rear of horm mouth. That would mean me doing the text as marquetry! Decisions decisions.

Scott, while staring aimlesly at my current FE166's in the standard Fostex design, I realised that very soon these drivers would be homeless, and as I think the Fostex cabinet is rather
bland (IMO), they deserve somthing more fitting, still thinking of an integrated sub. But must put thoughts like that to back of mind for a while. (Promised missis these would be the last speakers I ever build ! (this year)).
 

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marce said:
Just re-read your answer Dave, sorry what I meant was how should I finish of the flare for the tweeter.


Like this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1271487#post1271487

smoothly extend the existing flare of the FT17H, blending it with the front of the baffle as smoothly as possible. You might have issues with your screw heads unless you use cheese-heads and recess them slightly before you extend the flare..
the flare appears to extend past the screw heads. I was going to shape the flare on mine on a quiet evening outside with a few cold ones and a selection of files and sandpaper. it'll take some time getting it right.

Looking good Marce, If that chair was brown instead of black I'd swear you were building them in my lounge room. Room stuffing damps the echoes. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
 
marce said:
Gluing the first deflector, once a side was glued I was surprised how stable the semi-clad CC was.
Scott, while staring aimlesly at my current FE166's in the standard Fostex design, I realised that very soon these drivers would be homeless, and as I think the Fostex cabinet is rather
bland (IMO), they deserve somthing more fitting, still thinking of an integrated sub. But must put thoughts like that to back of mind for a while. (Promised missis these would be the last speakers I ever build ! (this year)).


:D

There are many interesting things that can be done with 166s. Ron's A166 would be my immediate choice for a horn (you're unlikely to want another double horn with Chang in your living room), but there are loads of options from TQWT to pipe-horns, to a couple of evil plots I have in mind but haven't done anything about (yet).
 
OzMike,regarding the tweeter flare, I've seen that and have a print out at home,have you read Daves reply in Post 130 above.
The advantage at the moment its wood off if it dont work.
Must look at my photo skills, the chair is actually green, a dark green. I'm getting a lot of grief over my setting up of the photo's
I always seem to include stuff that HWTU (Her who tidies up, cos that wot she always tells me) moans about, ie you could have moved the washing first etc,
well missis you build the speakers and I'll get one of the kids to skivvy!
Whack!!

Hi Wkhanna, The plasma TV was a peace offering out of my annual bonus, the photo's above showing wood all round my house is the norm (should that be Norm, after my hero)
as I'm allways playing with wood, so the TV keeps her out of the way, so papa can play. (almost poetic). As to sound I've got faith in the designers of the CC's.

Scott, i'm in no desperate hurry to build anymore speakers yet, I was just thinking I,m gonna have a pair
of spare FE166's tempting me. I think I'll wait until your fererent imagination comes up with something new.
I desperatly need to look at building some amplification next, and think the CC's will be my main speakers
for a while yet. I want to save the FE166's for something different, more a R&D play, as I have some ideas
on materials and combination of materials I would like to try out. So any realy avant garde ideas!
 
frugal-phile™
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marce said:
Went away and had a quick play, just got to reduce it to be able to upload.
Done it, will discuss more on renders etc via a PM Dave

Much nicer... i have some isolated experience with renderes. The big secret (as any photog will tell you) is getting the lights right.

Is it possible to get a 3D DWG of the tweeter. Will really help tart up the Sketch-ups.

dave
 

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frugal-phile™
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marce said:
Just re-read your answer Dave, sorry what I meant was how should I finish of the flare for the tweeter.

Chris and i were just considering the detail as we work towrads fitting 207/FT17 into Demetri.

Drivers will be mounted on an eliptical supraBaffle which we will make out of MDF due to ease of shaping. We;ll start with a quarter round using the router (red curve) and then just sand until we eyeball that the curve matches the curve inside the horn. (Blue curve). At the mouth we will increase the flare.

dave

PS: with at least 3 people working on XOs we should be able to get something that works well.
 

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Cheers Dave, I wiil have a look at the flare tonight.
I am hoping to install Autocad 2008 and Inventor 2008 later this month, ther is susposedly a major improvemnt in the interface between the two packages on the DWG front. The trouble with inventor is it is a full 3d package and I havn't found a way to get solids into Autocad, I will do some more research and have a chat with Acad support). Saying that it would be relatively easy for me to import your basic speaker drawings and createa 3D model. These could then have basic rendering done. You could then use these in DWF format and create any view you want. The other interesting thing is that once in inventor the mechanical properties of the material used can be specified, this would allow various data to be extrapollated including initial estimates of speaker weigt as well as more mind bogling stuff as shown below.
I only scratch the surface of what Inventor can do, but since I've changed from 2D (Acad) to full 3D (Inventor) doing 3D moddeling is much easier anhd quicker.
 

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For those looking for a 3d modeler a little more flexible than sketchup should take a look at Rhino3d. It can open and export a very large number of formats (including sketchup files) plus do rendering and animation with nurbs modeling. :) Though I'm not sure about making assemblies. Never played with that aspect.

http://www.rhino3d.com/

Anyways, I have a few drivers modeled in Inventor as well, and am willing to share. Dimensionally accurate basket and magnet, but the cone itself I just made to look close to reality.
 
frugal-phile™
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Theli said:
For those looking for a 3d modeler a little more flexible than sketchup should take a look at Rhino3d.

It still only runs under Windows making it a non-starter for me.

If you need more elaborate 3D there are a lot of other packages. SketchUp is perfect for what imostly need and being cross-platform, it makes it easy to share models and being free, anyone can access them.

If i need serious renders i can always use Maya or Cinema 4D.

dave
 
I use Inventor at work so it is a tool that is available.
I tend to draw most of my projects in it, as its there, and it is what i use as standard for mechanical design.
I have had lots of help of this (and other forums) and fun, and education, and belive in what goes round come round, so
any help I can return be it pretty pictures or whatever will benefit me as well. The other beauty of these forums,
is the diverse range of skills, experience etc that the contributers bring.
At the end of the day I wouldn't be building these cabinets if it wasn't for the encouragement and help. In fact my first project the FE166's
would have been my last if it wasn't for the help and patience of Dave and Scott and many others, as when I first set them up
it was all wrong and they sounded OK, now they sound ace, and I'm well into my second project.

Must download sketch up and have a play, never actualy used it.
 
planet10 said:


It still only runs under Windows making it a non-starter for me.

If you need more elaborate 3D there are a lot of other packages. SketchUp is perfect for what imostly need and being cross-platform, it makes it easy to share models and being free, anyone can access them.

If i need serious renders i can always use Maya or Cinema 4D.

dave

oh, that's fine, I just putting it out there for info only, but I did forget about that Mac part :) Anyways, I'll stop with the OT.
 
marce said:
This is my initial render of what I planned out over the weekend for the text GY provided me with.


You have the writing like a true native Korean, much better than my handwriting for sure. If agreeable u may want to thicken the lettering but looks great!

I am eagerly waiting for your build.

gychang
 

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Dave,
after our conversation I have read most of the post on panel resonances (200 pages!). Some very interesting discourse.
I am now rethinking the build along your lines of well braced, removeing the resonances to where they wont be excited enough to cause problems.
Along these lines I've read only initial document by Bud on EnABL, and noticed it on cabinets and horns as well as drivers. (I am going to digest the whole thread after bracing),
but do you think it is worth experimenting with EnABL on the cabinet.

GY, I have drawn the text in Acad so I can print it out on sticky paper and create exact stencils with a craft knife, I will increase the width of the letters. If I have enough veneer I will try the letters in a contrasting veneer.
 
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