I've decided to whip up some CC's, but driving these, I don't know...
Currently I have a JVC digital 5x80w rms Dolby receiver amp that currently runs my cheap boom box's for Hometheatre
I want to build a fairly simple-ish cheap-ish amp to run the 206's, and I want to do a chipamp, what would be recommended?
I like the pa03 (thats the lm4780ta), bridged or parallel mode. I don't know...
or a bp150 with lm3886's (chips harder to get hold of here)...
Currently I have a JVC digital 5x80w rms Dolby receiver amp that currently runs my cheap boom box's for Hometheatre
I want to build a fairly simple-ish cheap-ish amp to run the 206's, and I want to do a chipamp, what would be recommended?
I like the pa03 (thats the lm4780ta), bridged or parallel mode. I don't know...
or a bp150 with lm3886's (chips harder to get hold of here)...
Hi,
thanks for all the info.
GY thanks for the text, I like the straight, almost runish one, you've done, I'm going to incorporate it somehow.
As to the accuracy, I spend my days working to 0.1mm and less tolerances, and it sort of fixes in your brain, so I neadlessly worry
at such large intolerences as 1mm.
I do love routers and find that making jigs either by CNC or by hand makes life much easier, where possible I like to do it by hand when working with wood, it feals more honest, but to crate a 2m router compass would have been rather hard.
I was going to do the whole build just using a router, but decieded to use my cross cut saw for speed.
The way I hand make jigs is to start with a very thin material, that is easy to cut and shape, then use my 1/4" router with guide to cut a thicker working model. For circular jigs I make a quarter + template then make a working on by using this to cut each quadrant, then I turn it over and redo each quadrant to enshure symetry.
As I said earleir the jigs for CC are available to anyone near where I live.
thanks for all the info.
GY thanks for the text, I like the straight, almost runish one, you've done, I'm going to incorporate it somehow.
As to the accuracy, I spend my days working to 0.1mm and less tolerances, and it sort of fixes in your brain, so I neadlessly worry
at such large intolerences as 1mm.
I do love routers and find that making jigs either by CNC or by hand makes life much easier, where possible I like to do it by hand when working with wood, it feals more honest, but to crate a 2m router compass would have been rather hard.
I was going to do the whole build just using a router, but decieded to use my cross cut saw for speed.
The way I hand make jigs is to start with a very thin material, that is easy to cut and shape, then use my 1/4" router with guide to cut a thicker working model. For circular jigs I make a quarter + template then make a working on by using this to cut each quadrant, then I turn it over and redo each quadrant to enshure symetry.
As I said earleir the jigs for CC are available to anyone near where I live.
Just a thought. If anyone in my area wants a pair of these, then if they want to pop down to my place one Saturday we can use my workshop to build the sides as simply as possible and document the process photographically for others that are interested. I neither have the room nor cash to build a pair, but I think it certainly would be a fun project.
marce said:
You are welcome! Your Korean reply of "thank you" is perfect. Usually Americans with rudimentary knowledge of Korea is having been stationed in Korea during the US army tour...
I like to see how you may impliment the Korean characters on the cabinet. Once implimented I can upload the picture of the cabinet to Korean DIY speaker site, they will be flabbergasted!!, built by a foreigner.
gychang
Hi OzMike, the only place flat enough to do that is our living room, and for some reason I'm banned from using my routers in the living room after the last time (well the first and last time I used a router in the living room, and with no vac on the end of it
)
I second Scott's comments, these are a doddle to build, I've found them much easier than my first build standard Fostex FE166 BLH cabinet.
I dont have a useable workshop (wot she cant get in the loft goes in my shed) so have to work outside, so if its a nice day you can bring the sides round to mine for cutting for those of us that live up north, a couple of steady hours labour is all it takes.
Oh, cut the driver rebates last night (yep another jig), will post some more photo's soon when I can get them off my camera.
Had an idea, we could make a roll up jig that just covers the curved part approx 8"x 65", it could than be rolled up into a tube and would be easier to post round than a flat jig.
)I second Scott's comments, these are a doddle to build, I've found them much easier than my first build standard Fostex FE166 BLH cabinet.
I dont have a useable workshop (wot she cant get in the loft goes in my shed) so have to work outside, so if its a nice day you can bring the sides round to mine for cutting for those of us that live up north, a couple of steady hours labour is all it takes.
Oh, cut the driver rebates last night (yep another jig), will post some more photo's soon when I can get them off my camera.
Had an idea, we could make a roll up jig that just covers the curved part approx 8"x 65", it could than be rolled up into a tube and would be easier to post round than a flat jig.
Ahhh the good old days, I used to work in a bureau and had access to a wide format HP roll fed, print just about anything I wanted to build 1to1, then spray mount it to the wood.
On the CC front, just ordered some Sycamore veneer for the back box and hopefully the deflectors (couldn't resist, just got to face question time when another delivery turns up at home).
It is very light (so I've been told by the supplier) almost silvery,
the rest I'm going to do in a satin finish black. Thought about high gloss, but they are going to be next to a plasma TV (gloss black)on a great big black glass stand, and theres already so many reflective surfaces its like watching TV through compound eyes.
On the CC front, just ordered some Sycamore veneer for the back box and hopefully the deflectors (couldn't resist, just got to face question time when another delivery turns up at home).
It is very light (so I've been told by the supplier) almost silvery,
the rest I'm going to do in a satin finish black. Thought about high gloss, but they are going to be next to a plasma TV (gloss black)on a great big black glass stand, and theres already so many reflective surfaces its like watching TV through compound eyes.
OzMikeH said:
I agree with the method, but find it stressful having to create the set-up four times (once for each side) exactly the same. I know this should be easy and straightforward, but somehow by the time I've cut the fourth piece something has shifted a bit, and it doesn't exactly match the first piece; those of you who are competent at woodworking can ignore the rest of this post.
What I do is follow OzMike's method to cut a template in MDF; then clamp it to the individual sides and follow it with a trim bit on the router. This has the additional advantage that - providing you have room to store the template - you can easily make additional ones when (a) your mates are clamouring for them, and (b) you've already used the stick for something else later.
Regards.
Aengus
I agree with the method, but find it stressful having to create the set-up four times (once for each side) exactly the same. I know this should be easy and straightforward, but somehow by the time I've cut the fourth piece something has shifted a bit, and it doesn't exactly match the first piece; those of you who are competent at woodworking can ignore the rest of this post.
What I do is follow OzMike's method to cut a template in MDF; then clamp it to the individual sides and follow it with a trim bit on the router. This has the additional advantage that - providing you have room to store the template - you can easily make additional ones when (a) your mates are clamouring for them, and (b) you've already used the stick for something else later.
Regards.
Aengus
Hi Scott
willow was my first choice of veneer, unfortenatly the stock the supplier didn't have much figuring. The sycamore, is a nice light colour
and has some quilting so should look quite lucious with the satin black.
I was cogitating the build last night, and have decieded on some structural engineering, involving cement sheets etc. Two main reasons, firstly obviousley to reduce resonances
but also, after the work you've all put in designing it, and the work Dave does in customising the drive units,
I want it solid enough so it can be transported to an egg fest or Fostex get together, though I am doubtful they would fit in the back of my escort.
Another point I forgot, I think it is necessary for you to hear them, as you have much more experiance at listening to different speakers and especialy Fostex based systems, than I do, so would be better for providing a more objective report of their sound.
willow was my first choice of veneer, unfortenatly the stock the supplier didn't have much figuring. The sycamore, is a nice light colour
and has some quilting so should look quite lucious with the satin black.
I was cogitating the build last night, and have decieded on some structural engineering, involving cement sheets etc. Two main reasons, firstly obviousley to reduce resonances
but also, after the work you've all put in designing it, and the work Dave does in customising the drive units,
I want it solid enough so it can be transported to an egg fest or Fostex get together, though I am doubtful they would fit in the back of my escort.
Another point I forgot, I think it is necessary for you to hear them, as you have much more experiance at listening to different speakers and especialy Fostex based systems, than I do, so would be better for providing a more objective report of their sound.
The atached picture shows my method for rear mounting the tweeter.
IMO the ring used to fix the tweeeter is necessary to spread the torque
of the bolts to enshure a decent seal. The flange of the FT17 is plasti
and would possibly distort if used on its own. I use closed cell
neoprene gasket 2-4mm (grade 240 soft) to make gaskets. I find this is hard
enough to make a decent seal without putting undue stress on the drive
unit.
Note for Dave.
I drawn this up in Autodesk Inventor, I'm going to measure up a FT17
with my micrometer to get my model more exact, I will then be able
to convert some of the info to DWG format so you can use it.
I'll look into DWF viewers when I get chance, then you dcan use a
3d dwf file to create any view you want.
IMO the ring used to fix the tweeeter is necessary to spread the torque
of the bolts to enshure a decent seal. The flange of the FT17 is plasti
and would possibly distort if used on its own. I use closed cell
neoprene gasket 2-4mm (grade 240 soft) to make gaskets. I find this is hard
enough to make a decent seal without putting undue stress on the drive
unit.
Note for Dave.
I drawn this up in Autodesk Inventor, I'm going to measure up a FT17
with my micrometer to get my model more exact, I will then be able
to convert some of the info to DWG format so you can use it.
I'll look into DWF viewers when I get chance, then you dcan use a
3d dwf file to create any view you want.
Attachments
planet10 said:
Many photo printers can take rolls of paper for printing panoramic photos. Epson R800 can print 8 inches wide and many feet long. Epson 1290 can do 13 inches wide and several metres long. The hardest part is wrangling the software to get it to print exactly the right size. Not much point for something simple like a circle segment but worth remembering for complex curves.
Marce: if your build is half as good as that rendering I'll be well impressed! The horn boffins should have a look at that step in the horn expansion, it might cause some strange things.
Knowing the real shape of the FT17H horn (spherical, tractix, whatever) would be helpful for calculating the final diamater of the flare when 18mm is added to the front.
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