Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Matching the CD63KI to a valve amp?

SimontY said:
...In my experience there can be an audible difference, but it's a smaller difference than placing an isolation transformer inbetween the cd player and mains. Very worthwhile.

Simon

If you can find two identical mains transformers (at least 50VA) of say 230 to 24V, you can make an isolation transformer out of them by connecting the low voltages. It will stop some pollution coming trough and help to stabilise the voltage. The load must not be larger than 60% for better regulation, depending on the trannies used.

Regards, Jaap
 
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Matching the CD63KI to a valve amp?

disco said:


If you can find two identical mains transformers (at least 50VA) of say 230 to 24V, you can make an isolation transformer out of them by connecting the low voltages. It will stop some pollution coming trough and help to stabilise the voltage. The load must not be larger than 60% for better regulation, depending on the trannies used.

Regards, Jaap

Sounds like a great tip Jaap! I use a 500va (bit overkill) site tx that I found on Ebay (untested) for £7. It doesn't hum much and works perfectly. I got extra detail, less mush and grain, and a smoother sound.
 
Re: Re: Re: Matching the CD63KI to a valve amp?

Wow, a ton of posts after 1 day! Don't you guys have jobs ? :clown:

disco said:
:D and not because it's class B :D

Jaap

NB Does Cat5/6 come in other insulation than polyester?

Exactly, Jaap...:D

CAT5/6 is often insulated with polyethylene or polyolefin. Especially in buildings they don't use PVC because of the hazardous fumes in case of fire.

JustIN8 said:
Thanks Ray, your amp looks the buisness. If one had to build such an amp, how long would it take to set up etc. From the little I have read the single ended is good but expensive and the push pull has more power. If you can recommend a good thread/site to follow with respect to your amp it would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Justin

Yeah, i'm very happy with it. It took me three month to build from scratch. I designed it myself, but I had a lot of inspiration from this site: www.triodedick.com (don't laugh...).
It's has some PDF's in English, and has a lot of 'how-to-build' pictures.

rowemeister said:
...
Get this discrete pcb built and fitted and you wont be dissapointed.

Brent

I'm glad you like it! I'm about to upgrade mine with Holco's, I can't wait...

Regards,

Ray.
 
mickie said:
Hello Ray,

yes i saw this one before; the point is i'm not familiar with the voltage-regulator-thing and i'm afraid i might blow something up.....do you have another schematic or pictures which are more foolproof..?:cannotbe:
How many regulators at all do i need?

regards,
mickie

Hi mickie,

If you want to replace the +/- 12V regulators for the opamps you need one LM317 and one LM337. Here are two more pics. The one on the right is for the positive supply and uses the LM317.
 

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Thanx Ray for the pictures..... but i'm still a bit concerned about wiring them up wrong....maybe you can help me out with some schematic that shows exactly which pins are connected with the resistors and the cap - i definitely want to try this.
What about the other regulators in the digital part?

mickie
 
rowemeister said:
Raygulators -- very good LMAO

Brent
To all having trouble building a voltage regulator: :darkside:

As a fan of Gordon Ramsey I advice to read the explication on this three legged device (TLD). Click on the word saying 'datasheet', download the paper and read.

For beginners it's perhaps practical to exercise with a battery and a 6V lightbulb. If you don't own a Digital Multi Meter (DMM), buy one. Don't go over the top and start modifying your player (CDP) if you have no experience handling delicate electronics. Questions are not stupid but overestimating ones understanding of electronics is. :bfold:

Jaap
 
disco said:

For beginners it's perhaps practical to exercise with a battery and a 6V lightbulb. If you don't own a Digital Multi Meter (DMM), buy one. Don't go over the top and start modifying your player (CDP) if you have no experience handling delicate electronics. Questions

Jaap

ahhh I wondered what those coloured stripes were on those rectangle two legged things. :clown:

Brent
 
Saving money...

guys,

in order to go on saving money (ya the real thing is not the CD player or speakers, but records ! I've saved many records through opamps samples...), I wanna know for the first step : wich may I choose :
AD8620AR x2 (I also have AD8620BRZ x2) SOIC (need to buy some BD... waste money!)
versus
OPA2132P x4 (too much, who wants some ?...) or OPA2132PA x4 also.

Some OPA2227P and PAG4 are here also, and many 1 channel ones, as AD8610BR, OPA124UA... (all my AD are sent by pair, T.I. by 4).

For the next step I've already in hand OPA132U and wait for 627BPG4...

If the result in music makes the AD the winner, I'll get the BD adapters. I've no wish to collect opamps, so If someone wants some or can exchange for BD or even DIP8 socket or cap or such I'm ok...

Something more, in order to upgrade "free or charge" the player if possible, do you think 3 of these will be better feet (2 in rear 1 in front)? I may find some dead car's audio damping suff to damp the player, and a brace to reinforce the chassis...)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

They are in my hand... so quite small...
 
mickie said:
Thanx Ray for the pictures..... but i'm still a bit concerned about wiring them up wrong....maybe you can help me out with some schematic that shows exactly which pins are connected with the resistors and the cap - i definitely want to try this.
What about the other regulators in the digital part?

mickie

Ok, with this schematic and the pics of the boards you should be able to do it. As you can see, the LM337 is the easy one, because it's pinning matches the pinning of the original 7912 regulator. You can see in the picture of the back of the board that pins 2 and 3 are wired straight to connector pins 2 and 3. Only pin 1 has R2/C2 in series. Watch the polarity of the capacitor!

The LM317 PCB is a bit more difficult. Since the pinning doesn't match at all, I mounted the regulator in reverse. Now pin 3 can be wired straight to pin 1 of the connector. Pin 2 is wired to pin 3 of the connector with a detour to the left, and then straight down.

For 5V output voltage, use 365R instead of 1k05. But the 5V regulators have to be heatsinked, so mounting will be a problem. You can use them on a dedicated PCB though.

Regards,

Ray.
 

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disco said:
Ray, was it you who bought all photo print at Baco's? Had to go local at 4,75 for one eurocard.:mad:

Got home with two beautiful Parmeco Neptune trannies (5 euro each). Will make a nice separation transformer for the CDP.:)

Jaap

No, not ALL of them....
I still have a few here though :clown:

I'm thinking about using this one for my new mains filter, and make a balanced power line for my equipment.

Ray.
 

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Re: Saving money...

Malefoda said:
guys,

I wanna know for the first step : wich may I choose :
AD8620AR x2 (I also have AD8620BRZ x2) SOIC (need to buy some BD... waste money!)
versus
OPA2132P x4 (too much, who wants some ?...) or OPA2132PA x4 also.

Some OPA2227P and PAG4 are here also, and many 1 channel ones, as AD8610BR, OPA124UA... (all my AD are sent by pair, T.I. by 4).

Well, the money for a few BD adapters won't be a waste. Wait till you hear the sound. I would choose AD8620, or OPA124 + OPA132, or AD8610 + OPA132. You need adapters either way...:D. OPA2132 is not very impressive IMHO.

Regards,

Ray.
 
Malefoda

I am using AD8610/AD8510 on browndogs I got the opamps from Analog Devices sample program. Thats something you might want to try. Then bought the browndogs from their web site it saved my some money I was going to get the burr-brown OPA627 their 18.00 UDS each the burr-brown might be a better opamp but they were backed ordered at the time I got the AD's and I am very happy with the sound of the AD's.

Regards,

Dave