• These commercial threads are for private transactions. diyAudio.com provides these forums for the convenience of our members, but makes no warranty nor assumes any responsibility. We do not vet any members, use of this facility is at your own risk. Customers can post any issues in those threads as long as it is done in a civil manner. All diyAudio rules about conduct apply and will be enforced.

Who is interested in a groupbuy of Mark Kelly's DC controller PCB and related parts

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Hey Seth, Are you still going through with the group buy for your pulleys?

Absolutely. The Wiki is up to date.

Here's where we are: After raising the price by 25%, the machinist refuses to take PayPal. This means I must transfer funds to my personal bank account, get (and pay for) a certified funds check, and mail it to him in California.

The transfer is in process now. According to PayPal, this takes 4 business days.

We still anticipate a mid-July delivery date.
 
Hi Sister of Mercy,

Good question about the material. I was going to ask that very same question. I really don't care if they are brass or aluminum. They both machine about the same. 1" round Brass is $70 for 3 feet, and aluminum is about $15 for 3 feet. The pulley as last drawn is 1.32" tall. It is pretty tall, but all in the name of flexability. This should be able to do whatever we need it to.

If we buy 3 feet, I will be able to load the machine once and make about 24 pulleys. The necessary tools will be about $50. Then we need a bit of money for the machinist who is programing and setting up things. So, lets say that brass will be $200 total cost and Aluminum would be $150 total cost. Split between however many participants plus shipping is a pretty good deal. I am a big believer in looking out for the people making this happen (My volenteer machinist and good natured boss) so that next time they are willing to do it again.

Is there any opinon about material. At this point I am leaning towards aluminum only because the rest of my motor casing will probably be aluminum as well. It is nice to have them match. Also then if anyone want to have theirs anondized that can be done to whatever color you choose. Also in brass the pulley will be about 80 grams while in aluminum it will be about 25 grams.

I will get the tools on order and the material as soon as we decide.

DaveM
 
Here is the list of names I have so far:

tmegaard 1
fortytwo 1
cwise 1
ZUM911 1
Michi124 2
sklimek 1
markgall 1
astro_nut 1
Seth Hensel 1
SisterOfMercy 1
Rich Christie 1
DaveM 1
total 13

This means that the brass pulleys will be about $15 plus shipping, and the aluminum will be about $12.

Just to clarify, I will go with the majority vote on the material. The won't be an option of aluminum or brass once we decide.

DaveM
 
Pulley Group Buy

Frank sent this yesterday and affirmed today in a second e-mail:

Hi Seth, I think I should remove myself from this
group buy altogether.
It would appear that Dave can make the pulleys and
perhaps save everyone money. I do run a business
and have overhead to deal with so it is hard to
compete with someone who does it as a side job.
Judging by the tone of your last response to the
group buy thread, it would appear that you are not happy
with our arrangement so I think it best to just
move on without my participation.
Best Regards, Frank.

Because the funds are in transit to my personal account to enable the guaranteed funds check he demanded, I will have to wait until that deposit hits and then turn around and re-deposit to the PayPal account. I will immediately refund your payments when that happens.

To say that I am disgusted with this turn of events would be an understatement. I apologize to the group for having taken any part in this fiasco.

Dave - Add one pulley to my request for a total of two please.
 
tmegaard 1
fortytwo 1
cwise 4
ZUM911 1
Michi124 2
sklimek 1
markgall 1
astro_nut 1
Seth Hensel 2
SisterOfMercy 1
Rich Christie 1
DaveM 1
total 17

This of course will bring the cost down somewhat. Sorry to hear that I have screwed up your GB Seth. That was definately not my intention. I just don't really want to pay that much for something I can make happen on the cheap.

I took a peek at the available reamers. The shaft on the Maxon motor is 3mm +.005, -.010 (.1181" +.0002, -.0004) That makes the Max diameter .1183" I am planning to run a .1185 reamer through the hole once it has been drilled and reamed. That should make it tight enough that there will be little to no runout. I appoligise for working in inches, but the MSC (tool supply) specifies everything in inches.

I will leave this open for a few days if there are other people who want in. I will be away from my computer until Tuesday, so we can take tally again then.

I'm off:drink: Have a good weekend everyone.

DaveM
 
Well, as I am an engineer in electric systems and installation I may not have the right arguments for a choice, but the feeling in my stomach says brass. Cost is no object anyway at this level. Aluminium is great for Ferraris and cost effective power cables, nut maybe not my turntable. Guys?
 
Answers to some emailed questions:

Do I leave the battery plugged in at all times?

Yes the battery can be left plugged in all the time. It is best to leave it on float (trickle) charge. For extended fallow periods you can isolate the battery using the switches provided. The battery will last a year between charges as long as it is fully charged at the beginning of this period. It is never safe to leave the battery in a discharged state.

Do I unplug the power supply from the wall when I
am using the battery as a power source to run the
motor

The power supply can be left on all the time. It should be switched out of circuit when using the battery then back into circuit for charging. During extended fallow times as above it can be disconnected.

A question , I was talking to (x) and he mentioned
that you were working on a revised version is this true?

Yes, I am working on a new DC drive. Yes, it uses some elements from this one (including the main PCB). No, it isn't a "revised" version of this, it uses an entirely different control principle.

I am pursuing patent protection on this and at this stage my intention is that the control circuitry will be a "black box" so it will not be available as a kit.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.