tweaking the Fostex 206E

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wixy said:
Im using MDF for the construction. I was going to biscuit join the main pieces of the cabinets, but now I think I might as well just glue everything together and save some money by not having to buy a biscuit joiner.


I use biscuits to help keep pieces aligned while I apply the clamps, but they don't add to the strength of the final joint. If you're more careful (and patient) than I , butt joints will work fine.
 
Really? I thought the purpose of biscuits was to provide extra strength for the joint, and I also thought that biscuits allowed for some movement in the joint when two pieces of wood are initially joined. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Thanks for the tip, if that’s the case then I might just try to be very careful when applying the clamps to make sure everything lines up straight rather than use biscuits.
 
wixy said:
Really? I thought the purpose of biscuits was to provide extra strength for the joint, and I also thought that biscuits allowed for some movement in the joint when two pieces of wood are initially joined. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Thanks for the tip, if that’s the case then I might just try to be very careful when applying the clamps to make sure everything lines up straight rather than use biscuits.

People often say (and it has been similar in my experience) that a glue join will be stronger than the MDF itself. That is to say that if you were to try to break two bits of glued together MDF apart, the wood will actually snap before the join fails
 
Yes to that. (*sniff, sob, looks for beer*) No answers yet from Kangarooland as to brand names of good vinylic, let's hope someone shares his knowledge. And bisquits...if you like to build something with Lego toys and love 90° angles they are good fun, but not worth to have your sister marry them. Back to acrylic: you don't need dozens of clamps, and clamping crazy angles is something else anyway. Come on, tell us - what is your favourite glue?

Pit
 
I have a question about cutting the hole for the driver.

I notice with a lot of pics I see of speaker constructions that people cut the same hole with two different diameters on either side (its the best I can describe it, don't know the technical term).

Is it necessary to do this or can I just cut a hole and be done with it?


Also, another question, Fostex say to use 'sound absorbants' in certain locations as shown on the plan: http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/recom_enclose/208ez_enclrev.pdf

What could I use for this?
 
just cut the hole in the normal way, it doesn't do anything cutting in that strange way. All the small thing don't do notinhg, we're talking about millimiters.

you could use the interior of pillows. wich is made of acrilyc material or polyester.

But the best thing you could do is using plywood instead of MDF. If you want to stay on cheap use the chipboard of good quality.
 
I notice with a lot of pics I see of speaker constructions that people cut the same hole with two different diameters on either side (its the best I can describe it, don't know the technical term).

I think you mean the cut-away on the back of the front baffle.

It's done to have breathing room for the driver. If thick panels are used, one gets reflections back thru the cone which is bad. Smeared sound is the result.
Best done with a router or, as I do it, with a rasp? Help, haven't the name for this tool:xeye:

Pieceofmetalwithsharpteeth and plastic handle:rolleyes:

Cheers
 
Hey peterbrorsson! Ideally we and the limeys are supposed to be speaking the same language......I`m not sure how us Amerrycuns have ruined the language, but we sure talk different. Actually, I`m CZ on my mothers side, and I have a Chicago accent, yunno, dis, dat and da udder ting. Anyway what I call a wood rasp, is an important tool when building BLH with a double baffel thickness to let the driver "breathe."
 
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