peterbrorsson said:
I think you mean the cut-away on the back of the front baffle.
It's done to have breathing room for the driver. If thick panels are used, one gets reflections back thru the cone which is bad. Smeared sound is the result.
Cheers
Thanks. So do you think in this case, with an 18mm thick front baffle, that it is necessary?
But the best thing you could do is using plywood instead of MDF. If you want to stay on cheap use the chipboard of good quality.
Hmm wish I knew this before I had all the wood cut .
Is using mdf going to have that much of a negative effect?
Is it worthwhile lining some of the interior such as like in this pic?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks. So do you think in this case, with an 18mm thick front baffle, that it is necessary?
Absolutely! They will sound more open! Although I must admit that I "forgot" to do it in my BIB in the rush to get them home. Anyway, it doesn't take long time to do it.
But the best thing you could do is using plywood instead of MDF. If you want to stay on cheap use the chipboard of good quality.
I also prefer chipboard instead of MDF but don't grieve over your choice. Finish it and it will probably not be your last attempt of DIY. Next project choose plywood or chipboard and make your own conclusion!
Good luck!
Peter
wixy,
stop gnashing your teeth. Any box consisting of more panels than a six panels speaker coffin has enough bracing to minimize any problems. It's more a question of availability and money to choose what you buy. Depending on what colour/finish you want, some materials are trickier than others, that's the biggest grief.
Pit
stop gnashing your teeth. Any box consisting of more panels than a six panels speaker coffin has enough bracing to minimize any problems. It's more a question of availability and money to choose what you buy. Depending on what colour/finish you want, some materials are trickier than others, that's the biggest grief.
Pit
Being my first project, im worried about every little detail hehe. Well, i've began the construction today so no stopping now!
Testarossa, I have a question for you, or anyone else who knows.
Referring to the plans: ://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/recom_enclose/208ez_enclrev.pdf
Is Part 22 (of which there are 2 pieces) supposed be aligned with Parts 23 and 34, i.e. 88mm from the inside edge of the side panels?
Testarossa, I have a question for you, or anyone else who knows.
Referring to the plans: ://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/recom_enclose/208ez_enclrev.pdf
Is Part 22 (of which there are 2 pieces) supposed be aligned with Parts 23 and 34, i.e. 88mm from the inside edge of the side panels?
Looks like parts 22 are mainly there to strengthen part 9. Inserting them at different distances from the side panels may be better for your piece of mind (re standing waves), but don't lose sleep over it. Parts 25 and 26 are a different kettle of fish. Fastening them edge on instead of flat will help to keep the rear panel from having a merry dance - that's a source of sound you don't want.
Thanks for the tip, though it seems I keep doing things ahead of asking advice on the forums, because I already glued parts 25 and 26 last night!
Regarding the fe208esigma cabinet design, I was told that I should consider using 'corner reflectors' where the horn is folded, because without I would get reflections back up the horn.
Is there a reason why the Fostex design does not use corner reflectors (except the one at the mouth)?
Regarding the fe208esigma cabinet design, I was told that I should consider using 'corner reflectors' where the horn is folded, because without I would get reflections back up the horn.
Is there a reason why the Fostex design does not use corner reflectors (except the one at the mouth)?
peterbrorsson said:And do not mention Norwegian and Swedish in the same sentence
You know, neighboring countries.....
On behalf of any Norwegians, or those of Norwegian descent, on this forum, I certainly appreciate your sensitivity and concern for our feelings.
Best Regards,
TerryO
wixy said:Regarding the fe208esigma cabinet design, I was told that I should consider using 'corner reflectors' where the horn is folded, because without I would get reflections back up the horn.
Is there a reason why the Fostex design does not use corner reflectors (except the one at the mouth)?
Wixy,
I'm not an expert where horns are concerned, but I believe that it is generally thought that bass frequencies aren't affected as much by sharp corners as treble frequencies, which tend to be attenuated. For full range applications this "passive" filter is a plus where phase concerns can be a problem. Not ideal perhaps, but it works and is relatively simple.
Best Regards,
TerryO
Hi Terry
Good to learn some new words now and then
Regards Peter
sensitivity and concern
Good to learn some new words now and then
Regards Peter
TerryO
Just to be clear about my posting. This is a friendly banter that goes around in Scandinavia. I've experienced people getting shocked about this before. I have good friends which are Norwegian. If somebody got offended, I apoligize!
Regards
Peter
On behalf of any Norwegians, or those of Norwegian descent, on this forum, I certainly appreciate your sensitivity and concern for our feelings.
Just to be clear about my posting. This is a friendly banter that goes around in Scandinavia. I've experienced people getting shocked about this before. I have good friends which are Norwegian. If somebody got offended, I apoligize!
Regards
Peter
peterbrorsson said:in Scandinavia
Earlier in the week i had packages to mail to both Norway & Schweden ... i was surprised to find that the girl maning the post oofice did not know they shared a border...
dave
Got another newbie question guys. I just made up a circle jig for my router, however i measured incorrectly and it cuts a circle with a radius of 186.5mm rather than 185mm which is recommended by Fostex.
Is this small difference going to have any effect on anything? Is there some sort of science for the diameter of the driver hole, or is it just that as long as the driver fits, it's ok?
Is this small difference going to have any effect on anything? Is there some sort of science for the diameter of the driver hole, or is it just that as long as the driver fits, it's ok?
wixy said:or is it just that as long as the driver fits, it's ok?
big enuff that it fits, and not much larger so that you have maximum support for the bezel on the baffle. And don't forget to champher the back side of the cut out to let the driver breath.
dave
wixy said:Are champhers only really necessary for very thick front baffles?
In my case, the front baffle is 18mm thick.
We like to use 45 (or at least 30) degree champhers. Very thick is relative. For a non-rebated 206 thick is anything more than 10 mm, rebated 14mm.
dave
wixy said:As I don't have a suitable router bit for cutting a champher, what if instead I was to cut a rebate on the back side of baffle?
A rebate on the back may weaken the baffle too much.
When i get the opportunity to get to do this i just use a big rasp.
dave
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Full Range
- tweaking the Fostex 206E