Trapezoid mini Onken&Slim GR dMar-Ken builds

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Good progress Vish - when do we get listening impressions? :)

Thanks zman, hopefully the way i have done the wadding will suffice, waiting for Dave and Chris to give me the thumbs up!

Once i get all the wadding done, wires soldered and everything glued up ill be ready to test the speakers out, hopefully within the next two weeks.

Takes a great deal of time up all this diy audio work.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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The circled areas will obscure the vent. What is under the muslim?

dave

PS: You should shrink the pictures before uploading them. The image i captured was ~460k, mine attached is 28k.
 

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Redone

Made it better in the corners near the port, lots of clearance. Took a picture inside the box by the rear panel and port to show.

Next box I will do a better arrangement.
 

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Rear of trapezoids

Used polyfill at the rear, using spray glue I lightly stretched it and stuck it back till I could see the ports.

Chris said give it clearance so I am guessing this is good?
 

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Well I don't want to have you swear at me! Hahaha ok i don't know any better, the posts were placed like this as it seems logical as it is either side the internal brace.

The hook up wire is copper and ofc, I chose a thick wire thinking it would be better?

This is why I need good examples to follow! It shouldn't make that much of a difference right?

Do you have pictures of how you mount the posts? Or examples of the ones you recommend.

Thanks

It's done now so at least I can learn for next time


Not ¾” spacing of the posts (we will swear at you if you bring them by here for an audition) and the hook up wire is awfully thick and not solid core (we use 24 g solid).

dave
 
Actually come to think of it, I ordered these connectors from ebay and they weren't the size I ordered, I thought they would be smaller. I had to use them anyway. My thinking is this is a beta practice build to learn from mistakes, try different approaches and just get it finished. I'm eager to play some music and test them out.

When fitting them "Dare I say it" I actually liked the fact they were solid and chunky, it's growing on me.
 
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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Well I don't want to have you swear at me! Hahaha ok i don't know any better, the posts were placed like this as it seems logical as it is either side the internal brace.

Standard twin banana plugs have ¾” spacing. They are good & make swapping speakers easy. We also like to be able to easily remove the terminals… ask yourself, will you be ble to get at the solder end if you have to fix the connection or replace the wire.

1RK22_AS01


The hook up wire is copper and ofc, I chose a thick wire thinking it would be better?

There is a school of thot that says, as long as the cable can handle the needed current, skinny & solid is best (and high quality metal (copper, silver coated copper, or silver). After many years of playing with cable i tend towards that camp.

Do you have pictures of how you mount the posts? Or examples of the ones you recommend.

Low metal mass. Sometimes the cheapies are better because they have less metal. The ones we use and sell are cheesy looking but work well. High-end ones can be had from WBT or ETI (Eichan’s new firm).

3in-terminalcup.jpg


dave
 
Actually come to think of it, I ordered these connectors from ebay and they weren't the size I ordered, I thought they would be smaller. I had to use them anyway. My thinking is this is a beta practice build to learn from mistakes, try different approaches and just get it finished. I'm eager to play some music and test them out.

When fitting them "Dare I say it" I actually liked the fact they were solid and chunky, it's growing on me.

Vish,

The speaker terminals that you have installed will work ok; the caveats are that you cannot use the double banana plugs that Dave mentioned in his last post (matter of choice), and it will be challenging to change the wiring if you want to/need to later (assuming that the back is not removable).
 
Standard twin banana plugs have ¾” spacing. They are good & make swapping speakers easy. We also like to be able to easily remove the terminals… ask yourself, will you be ble to get at the solder end if you have to fix the connection or replace the wire...


The thing is Dave on the design for the Trapezoids the internal brace gets in the way when using this type of speaker post, I followed the design. Unlike the GR slims where the internal brace has an angle cut at the rear. This allowed me to use the speaker post you suggest.


So I had no choice really, unless I modified the internal brace and cut it so it could fit it, hence why I put these single binding posts.

Maybe in the design specs specify this with examples, this would be helpful and keep me on the right track.
 

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Vish,

The speaker terminals that you have installed will work ok; the caveats are that you cannot use the double banana plugs that Dave mentioned in his last post (matter of choice), and it will be challenging to change the wiring if you want to/need to later (assuming that the back is not removable).


Thanks Zman, I don't think I'll ever need to change the wiring or fear that it will come off. I soldered it well and hestshrinked it, it's never coming away.

Yes nothing is removable in this build, once it's glued its never being opened again.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
The thing is Dave on the design for the Trapezoids the internal brace gets in the way when using this type of speaker post, I followed the design...
So I had no choice really, unless I modified the internal brace and cut it so it could fit it, hence why I put these single binding posts.

There is a note with an arrow that specifically suggests modifying the holry brace to make room for the terminal cup.

The metal nutted posts in the terminal cup you picture are not up to the plastic nutted ones.

dave
 
There is a note with an arrow that specifically suggests modifying the holry brace to make room for the terminal cup.

True I did see that note, but wasn't too sure.


The metal nutted posts in the terminal cup you picture are not up to the plastic nutted ones.

dave

Again I tought they would be fine, I can ways change these to the plastic nutted ones.
 
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