Clausen,
Where did you find the HDF? What are the dimensions (thickness?) of the individual HDF sheets? How difficult is it to work with? What are the advantages over laminating 3/4" hardwood plywood with 1/4" hardwood plywood to form the 1" thick panels?
Thanks,
Happy Jack
(I just received the rest of the drivers so it's time to start on the boxes!!)
Joe,
I sign up for eight Purifi drivers.
I want to build a third pair of Elsinore
Give that man a prize! A new World Record!
Now I can go to bed with a smile, saved by the bell.
Wow the Purifi version is going to be expensive (2400 plus shipping/tax for just the 8 drivers). You have to ask, if the Elsinores are as good as has been eye witnessed, how much can you expect from a different driver set? Seems to me you'd be chasing an illusion. But there's no limit to what someone might spend in search of the ultimate.
That said, if I didn't already have all the parts and xovers built I bet I'd move in that direction. I suppose the xovers would all be different going from the MFC to the Purifi.
That said, if I didn't already have all the parts and xovers built I bet I'd move in that direction. I suppose the xovers would all be different going from the MFC to the Purifi.
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Home Depot sells it in 3/16" and 1/8" PANELS. For some reason the 3/16 is twice as much even though it's not twice as thick.
So I bought 2- 4'x8'x 3/16" panels and 1-4'X8' x1/8" panel. I need 4 3/16" panels to make 18mm, and 4 3/16 and 2 1/8 inch to make 25mm or one inch. (For some reason it comes out about 1/16 less than an inch.) I ripped the 4"X8" panel not quite in half, approx 24 3/4" X 23 1/8" I need 6 panels per side for each 1" section. So far I have cut 10- 15.5" X 24 3/4" and 12- 9 3/8" X 24 3/4" panels. Once everything is cut, I'll start laminating and then cut to the correct sizes. So I've rough cut everything a little bigger and I'll clean up my edges once it's all laminated together. I used Titebond II before and it worked fantastic.
It's super easy to work with in these thin panels, but it's also not that hard to trim because there all smaller 1 inch pieces, nothing will be longer than 24 3/4" once I get to trimming it all down. I ripped down these 3 pieces, and leaned them against a folding table in my garage, and it started to tip it over, I had to grab the table and panels. The stuff is super heavy and dense. (I have a a much better table saw than when i built the Elsinores too, so that helps. But even with my ancient Craftsman I had very little trouble. https://www.skil.com/wormdrive-table-saw-spt99-11/)
It is extra work gluing everything together, but once it's glued you just wait.
Here's the math to do ONE Hamlet, since I'm just doing the one for a center now.
For the front 18MM/3/4" you need 4- 3/16" panels. For the front and back 25MM/1inch, you need 4- 3/16 each and 2- 1/8" for the sides, and top same, 4- 3/16" and 2-1/8" for the sides you need 6 each side, 4-3/16" and 2-1/8". I screwed up on the front and back panels. I thought I could get 10, 9 3/8" X 24 3/4" panels from one 96" panel, which i might have been able to do, but I had to rip it in half because I was by myself, but 10 cuts with 1/8" blade is and inch and a quarter. But that's okay, because I'm going to have more than enough from the last section of 1/8"X 23" X 96" panel I'll have left after all the other cuts.
The Elsinore's are something like 45" tall, so keep that in mind. And the 1/8" panels are a better deal because two are less than one 3/16" panel or about the same, and 2 1/8" panel is 1/4 ". Now that I think about it, maybe I would have been better off getting all 1/8 panels, but I did all this math a while back and took notes, and bought what I had in my notes.
Hope that helps. If you build them this way, you'll need a hand truck to get them inside or help for sure. I took mine inside with a hand truck and THEN, put the drivers in them because of how heavy they are with NO drivers.
Sorry, It's a lot to comment on so I missed this part...so for me it's just the math and the cost. You cannot get 1" anything, and to get 3/4" whatever, it's expensive. The combination of 3/4" with anything, to make 1" there's just nothing out there, and the combinations are very expensive. For example, you cannot get full sheets of a lot of materials, and they just don't add up to what you need for the Hamlets or Elsinore's. For example, two 3/4 inch panels for the front baffle/brace is 1 1/2". But the specs calls for 1 3/4". So yeah, it's more complicated, but to me this was easier...
This is amazing stuff ! But unless you own your own woodwork shop - you will be charged a fortune to have your cabinets done - Aluminium works out cheaper. I watched a build of a high end speaker on a German forum and the workshop equipment they had was incredible. In a perfect world we might all love this to do our cabinets - in Australia I am not sure you could find someone to do the job. After seeing that build I did some inquiries and examined a piece - meant as a piano part. Germany is the place to get that done and shipped out .That build was from memory ? $40000
Anyway I think Helmut is on the right track -for mere mortals in other lands lead lining a cabinet can bring similar benefits
Baltic Birch is a goto… there are different quality. As the BB we were getting was declining in quality (China? Russia?) we switched to Murphy ply, which uses quality baltic cores, QCs and adds an extra pair of veneer layers. Essentially high quality BB.
The best ply we have used is staranded (same as fossilized) bamboo plywood. It is really dense, but it is a side effect of really incredible stiffness.
dave
The best ply we have used is staranded (same as fossilized) bamboo plywood. It is really dense, but it is a side effect of really incredible stiffness.
dave
The thing about something dense (heavy) is that it doesn't want to change. If it is still it is hard to get moving and if it is moving, it is hard to stop.
I think he means that it opposes the motion of the driver itself.. (and as long as the coupling is very rigid to driver's basket: it can improve subjective clarity.)
Of course where you have very little force being generated (as with a tweeter), a lossy coupling is best to void transmission to the tweeter from panel resonances; so most of the time opposing driver motion is something to look at with respect to woofers (..and sometimes midranges).
Of course where you have very little force being generated (as with a tweeter), a lossy coupling is best to void transmission to the tweeter from panel resonances; so most of the time opposing driver motion is something to look at with respect to woofers (..and sometimes midranges).
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