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The use of MiniDSP, AMP9 B and SUB (Cubo15)
I am starting to understand the benefits with the MiniDSP and the AMP9 Basic. Please correct me if I am wrong Saturnus, but since the AMP9 B has two inputs would the setup look like this? (Directly connected to the amp without any passive protective components?)
And then by splitting/doubling the MP3 signal the adding of SUB speakers is possible. Where the AMPx will be rated with 4 or more times the power output as the AMP9 B.
Have you thought of any speaker choice for the Cubo15 extended enclosure? I have seen people mention drivers like "Kappa-15LFA" and "B&C 15nw76".
I am starting to understand the benefits with the MiniDSP and the AMP9 Basic. Please correct me if I am wrong Saturnus, but since the AMP9 B has two inputs would the setup look like this? (Directly connected to the amp without any passive protective components?)
And then by splitting/doubling the MP3 signal the adding of SUB speakers is possible. Where the AMPx will be rated with 4 or more times the power output as the AMP9 B.
Have you thought of any speaker choice for the Cubo15 extended enclosure? I have seen people mention drivers like "Kappa-15LFA" and "B&C 15nw76".
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Do you guys know if it's possible to get the dayton nd16fa-6 anywhere in Europe? I tried ordering it from Europ-Audio, but that's probably one of the stupidest things i have done in 2014. It has been over 2 months, and it still says "Available soon"... I can see that it is listed as "Out of stock" at AccuSafe and Intertechnik, does anyone know if they are back before summer?
Since I only own a Mac, I can't run WinISD and calculate it myself, so I hope some of you guys can help med out with this:
I am probably going to have to use an 18mm sheet of plywood for the top cover of my boominator because of countersinked solar panels (thinkness approx. 7mm), but still I want to maintain an outer height of 30mm.
Therefore, the added 6 mm thickness is going to end up inside the speaker cabinets, reducing the volume of each cabinet with approx. 0,62 litres.
Any idea how this will affect the sound, both perceived and theoretically?
I am probably going to have to use an 18mm sheet of plywood for the top cover of my boominator because of countersinked solar panels (thinkness approx. 7mm), but still I want to maintain an outer height of 30mm.
Therefore, the added 6 mm thickness is going to end up inside the speaker cabinets, reducing the volume of each cabinet with approx. 0,62 litres.
Any idea how this will affect the sound, both perceived and theoretically?
Yes, it will. No idea by how much precisely. Probably not a great deal but it's a little difficult say exactly. The vertical and horizontal relationship would certainly no longer be perfectly 1:2^0.5 internally. And it would no longer be perfectly symmetrically aligned to the acoustic dampening holes in the center braces.
I have no intention of doing the calculation for the precise effect it would have though. Life's too short.
Hey saturnus im wondering if you yet had made a mini (og if anybody else had 
), and have made some comparison with the halfinator My question really lays in which i Would enjoy most. My main use would be when im painting graffiti in a large open building (dk: Remisen Esbjerg ved ikke hvad sådan en hedder), but as in so many other great sports running can be a part of graffiti, just as loud music is ! So which delivers most DB and the fattest bass
), and have made some comparison with the halfinator My question really lays in which i Would enjoy most. My main use would be when im painting graffiti in a large open building (dk: Remisen Esbjerg ved ikke hvad sådan en hedder), but as in so many other great sports running can be a part of graffiti, just as loud music is ! So which delivers most DB and the fattest bass
I don't know. It's the same as LOCTITE epoxy metal/concrete or epoxy weld or similar.
Hey saturnus im wondering if you yet had made a mini (og if anybody else had
Halfinator for sure. It's also 4 times bigger than the MINI. The MINI is tiny.
Ok, seems I should ignore my OCD and make it 900x300x306 then
That would be my choice. Or you could ignore it and just make sure you drill extra 20-24mm holes in the center brace to make up for the lost volume but it's not ideal.
Thx for the Quick answer ! Been reading for some time now and i havent Come to a conclusion, and really want your opinion, would it sound Best whit the holes in the middel and then a box fixing mono, or solid and stereo ?
I see your point in drilling holes, but my own calculations says that if i manage to drill 10 holes with Ø24mm (which I btw think is impossible), it's only gonna give me an extra 0,054 litres!
That's not a lot when I am missing 0,623 litres....