I deliberately bought a panel that was small enough not to need a charge controller, but I'm a bit confused about the thing with the connection. This is how I've connected everything, Is it alright with the Solar Panel connected in that fashion? or should it be connected directly to the battery instead?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Never ever connect the solar panels so that there is any possibility of them being connected to the amp without the battery being connected. You should also have a fuse directly on the battery plus pole.
A voltmeter use (a little bit of) power. I suggest a momentary switch to be used on that connection.
A voltmeter use (a little bit of) power. I suggest a momentary switch to be used on that connection.
So it should be like this then, I can't see how the Solar Panel could feed the amp directly now at least? Perhaps with a switch on the Voltmeter as well.
If you switch off the battery, but forget the solar panel, it will feed voltage to the amp, if you use your current drawing. As Saturnus suggested, you should have a momentary switch for the voltmeter, so that it's only turned on when you press the button (less energy waste). I would probably just use a cigar plug instead of the USB, and then you wouldn't need the switch, just remove any connected items. I don't see why you would need a switch between battery/solar panel, as long as there is a schottky diode on the panel, you should be fine.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Alright thanks for clearing it up man, the USB plug is actually a cigar plug, but the device I've got in it (a USB plug) has a little LED on it to show when it's on, and since it's going to be plugged in most of the time I'd rather have a switch for it.
So from your drawing i get that the issue with how I've done it already is that the Solar Panel is connected to the same wire that eventually reaches the amp? But practically speaking, how do i connect both wires to the battery without there being a connected at some point, I mean, the battery only has two poles? Unless theres a difference between the two wires connecting at the pole or in a wire splitter?
Even though a momentary switch would be the best idea, I think I'll just wire the Voltmeter in after the main power switch, mainly because I've already made all the cutouts, and aestethically theres not really room for another switch.
Hi folks
After reading the whole thread, taking a good amount of notes
and learning so much that my head hurts, I'm trying to do the final decisions for my boominator.
I'd like to build a 20Ah 2P4S LifePo4 battery pack, using 10Ah 38120 Headway cells. Widening the compartment to 81 mm would allow me to stack four blocks of two cells.
But it is really difficult for me to find a suitable bms. Can someone give me some advice?
Also, wouldn't the function of a power supply be redundant if a solar controller is present, since the controller handles overcharging and deep discharge?
Would it be possible to just connect a step down converter and a rectifier?
Electronics is not my area of expertise, sorry if those questions are dumb.
Regards
After reading the whole thread, taking a good amount of notes
and learning so much that my head hurts, I'm trying to do the final decisions for my boominator.
I'd like to build a 20Ah 2P4S LifePo4 battery pack, using 10Ah 38120 Headway cells. Widening the compartment to 81 mm would allow me to stack four blocks of two cells.
But it is really difficult for me to find a suitable bms. Can someone give me some advice?
Also, wouldn't the function of a power supply be redundant if a solar controller is present, since the controller handles overcharging and deep discharge?
Would it be possible to just connect a step down converter and a rectifier?
Electronics is not my area of expertise, sorry if those questions are dumb.
Regards
I am completely new to this but I have attempted reading this thread and got lost so many times. I read the Boominator Mini Developmental thread because that is the size I am interested in but was told to come to this thread now.
If I had 4 of the Aura NS6-8 would this still be the best option?
These would go with the Dayton ND16FA tweeters.
I am also confused on the crossover needed for this.
I plan on using the Maxamp20 for this project. Im not sure if that is the best option though.
Thank You
If I had 4 of the Aura NS6-8 would this still be the best option?
These would go with the Dayton ND16FA tweeters.
I am also confused on the crossover needed for this.
I plan on using the Maxamp20 for this project. Im not sure if that is the best option though.
Thank You
That is really a shame. Maybe someone with the right contacts should lobby madisound, parts express or another US reseller to stock the parts for both the regular and mini versions. Seeing as there are literally 100s of complete Boominator packs sold in Europe every year I have a hard time imagining there wouldn't be a market in the US as well. And although the GW1058 is an alternative to the HP10W. It is not as good. The sound quality, sensitivity and bass performance of the HP10W is noticeably better. It's also lighter and easier to build the cabinet with so what's not to love.
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Good luck, its worth the effort, I lobbied Blue Arran and although I'm sure that I'm not soley responsible, from not stocking the HP10, they now do whole boominator packs. I have just lobbied them to stock the dayton tweeters for the mini tho...... its worth a try...
*JP*
Don't think anyone has ever had a problem. I haven't heard about it. Try asking on their facebook page https://www.facebook.com/accusafe
I just ordered this:
1*LiFe 12.8V 4S Battery Protection Circuit Module PCM01
and
1pc 3.2V LiFePO4 Li-ion LFP26650 energy type 3200mAh flat cap battery cell
cut and paste, and do a ebay search with the above text.
Goo
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With the PCM CC/CV 14,6v charging, and soft use i recon they will stay Fairly balanced for a long time. I Don't think i really need the individual cell balancing, and i liked the size and form factor of the PCM. Will see....
No deal on shipping, but good idea, you should try to get one.
Goo
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