Yep I was looking at radial inductors with a ferrite core, but these were all low DCR.
That's what I meant about being a little tricky to find. The are very common and usually very cheap, it's just not a type of component you'd normally use for a speaker crossover but here they are the ideal choice.
Nice, I got a couple of questions:
-The final file was and is the one you mentioned in this post right?: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-476.html#post3862610
-The cutouts seem to be off. The sketchup file says 96mm, while Monacor says 98mm and my measurements say 100mm. Also the tweeter cutout is 33 instead of 32.5mm. Any comments?
-The suggested battery is a 4 cell 26650 LiFePO4 pack. Batteryspace offers suitable options, a lot don't feature balancing however. There are chargers available for series charging, so I don't think balancing would be strictly neccesary? How much does this affect the degrading? Batteryspace doesn't ship to my country, so I am looking at 2300mAh cells A123 cells from AliExpress with a suitable PCM/BMS.
-Would you benefit from using a highpass on your amp against overexcursion, if yes: which value?
-The final file was and is the one you mentioned in this post right?: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-476.html#post3862610
-The cutouts seem to be off. The sketchup file says 96mm, while Monacor says 98mm and my measurements say 100mm. Also the tweeter cutout is 33 instead of 32.5mm. Any comments?
-The suggested battery is a 4 cell 26650 LiFePO4 pack. Batteryspace offers suitable options, a lot don't feature balancing however. There are chargers available for series charging, so I don't think balancing would be strictly neccesary? How much does this affect the degrading? Batteryspace doesn't ship to my country, so I am looking at 2300mAh cells A123 cells from AliExpress with a suitable PCM/BMS.
-Would you benefit from using a highpass on your amp against overexcursion, if yes: which value?
Saturnus.
Thanks for the info.
If you get a chance could you (or anybody) explain the pros and cons of dual amping the mini.
What sort of performance increase would you expect. (And when)
Also would you use twice the energy to power the dual amp or would you be pushing each amp less to acheve the same loudness?
Also if I wanted to lose the extra holes and include a tiny bit more plywood in the speaker enclosure could I just add a few more mms in length to the speaker compartment?
I need to add a few 6 by 6mm rods inside at the ends at the top and bottom so I can route the outside of the box more aggressively.
Cheers
Thanks for the info.
If you get a chance could you (or anybody) explain the pros and cons of dual amping the mini.
What sort of performance increase would you expect. (And when)
Also would you use twice the energy to power the dual amp or would you be pushing each amp less to acheve the same loudness?
Also if I wanted to lose the extra holes and include a tiny bit more plywood in the speaker enclosure could I just add a few more mms in length to the speaker compartment?
I need to add a few 6 by 6mm rods inside at the ends at the top and bottom so I can route the outside of the box more aggressively.
Cheers
Subwoofer Boominator
Hey guys!
I am running a AMP9 BASIC with a PLLXO filter which splits the channels at around 100hz.
My plan is to make not only one standard Boominator but a second one as well just larger and instead of tweeters and bass drivers, it will only have 4 subwoofers mounted in the same fashion as the standard Boominator design (magnet to magnet).
The idea is then during the daytime only the standard Boominator will be used, while during the night you will have the option of connecting the Subwoofer Boominator.
What do you guys think? My main question is which Subwoofer drivers would be appropriate? And what kind of cabinet volume should I expect? (Preferably 8ohm units for paralleling into 4ohm.)
(Future considerations)
-Each Boominator will contain a 12 volt SLA battery with around 25-30 Ah. When connection the Subnator the option of serial connecting into 24 volts is there.
-Each Boominator will have a 12 volt solar panel. So that during daytime will charge separately.
-Adding a AMP6 BASIC for daytime use with the standard Boominator only.
Hey guys!
I am running a AMP9 BASIC with a PLLXO filter which splits the channels at around 100hz.
My plan is to make not only one standard Boominator but a second one as well just larger and instead of tweeters and bass drivers, it will only have 4 subwoofers mounted in the same fashion as the standard Boominator design (magnet to magnet).
The idea is then during the daytime only the standard Boominator will be used, while during the night you will have the option of connecting the Subwoofer Boominator.
What do you guys think? My main question is which Subwoofer drivers would be appropriate? And what kind of cabinet volume should I expect? (Preferably 8ohm units for paralleling into 4ohm.)
(Future considerations)
-Each Boominator will contain a 12 volt SLA battery with around 25-30 Ah. When connection the Subnator the option of serial connecting into 24 volts is there.
-Each Boominator will have a 12 volt solar panel. So that during daytime will charge separately.
-Adding a AMP6 BASIC for daytime use with the standard Boominator only.
I don't expect an audio grade capacitor to perform better but it's worth a go if you have them lying around, or just want to experiment. Note that voltage rating should be more than around 3 times the supply voltage of the amp though.
Okay will ditch the Subnator idea.
With the extended Cubo15 I suspect one or two? Of these cabinets would be sufficient with possibly one facing each direction stacked underneath a Boominator.
I would very much like to do what you recommend Saturnus. However as of now my problem lies likes this. I only have a assembled AMP9 Basic and a disassembled AMP6 Basic. I won’t hassle with changing my AMP9 Basic, I would much rather read up on use of LR4 filters and start from scratch with another amp or maby even the use of a MiniDSP. (I am afraid of ruining the amp see pictures.)
Because of the open air environment I can understand that the subs would need much more power. Do you think that only disappointment awaits if I were to use two Cubo15 ext. on my subwoofer channels? In a sense that it won’t be able to keep up with the Boominators output.
AMP9 Basic with PLLXO 100hz:
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Hi again, I've started assembling my Boominator, and after having soldered all the speaker cables i wanted to test it, but there is a problem I simply can't figure out.
When I plug in my AUX cable, only one side of the speaker plays (The right one, marked red on the amp), but if i switch the cable and put the red plug in the white socket, only the left one plays. So obviously it would appear that my cable is ruined, since the amp can play both channels from the red plug. But my problem is that I've now tried 3 different audio cables, all of which work fine on other systems, it just doesn't make sense to me?
When I plug in my AUX cable, only one side of the speaker plays (The right one, marked red on the amp), but if i switch the cable and put the red plug in the white socket, only the left one plays. So obviously it would appear that my cable is ruined, since the amp can play both channels from the red plug. But my problem is that I've now tried 3 different audio cables, all of which work fine on other systems, it just doesn't make sense to me?
It could be the device delivering the music that has a problem. Have you tried another pc/phone/ipod/whatever?
I didn't think of that at all, my MacBook is appearently broken, it plays fine from a phone, thanks!
2x 12V 7Ah batteries can be stacked on top of eachother and maintain the width of the center compartment. It is also worth noting that I designed it to be upgradeable for use with a 24V amp (to get 4 times the power output) in which case you series connect the batteries instead.
Making it the whole Boominator longer than 900mm as recommended, as using a 17Ah battery would dictate, is also not a good option from a portability point of view as that will make it very hard for a normal person to reach each port/handle in order to pick it up and move it alone. So making it longer pretty much means you have to be 2 people to move it.
Also the 66mm width of the electronics compartment is also the same as the recommend amp case, recessed dish connection plate, and the most commonly available small 3A chargers on the market. Pretty much ideal from every perspective.
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Thanks for the quick reply, I've already made it 2cm longer in order to fit in my amp, so I guess I'll go with the 17Ah battery for that reason. I do have pretty long arms though, so I don't think I'll have a problem moving it around on my own.
I can always buy some other batteries if i ever plan on upgrading it, I'll probably look into some Lifepo4s if that time comes. Great with some clarification though!
The Muse M20 Ex2 - Is that an alright choice? I don't know about power consumption compared to AMP6 or the MaxAmp since it has a pretty bright LED light behind the volume pot whenever its on
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You could just have turned the amp 90 degress as most do and kept original width. Nevermind though. Yeah, it's an excellent amp. Input sensitivity is quite low so you'll probably need a FIIO or other preamp to get full power out from a phone or ipod. Or you solder in new feedback resistors. Power consumtion of that LED alone is about 1/3rd of the entire power consumption of the amp at idle.
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Should I look into removing the LED then? (my soldering skills are limited at best). I already bought myself a FIIO after realising the input sensitivity issues.
Oh and lastly, I was confused about my solar panel, should it just be wired in parallelalong with eeverything else? Because to me there's something illogical in having power going out of the battery through the same wires that feed it power? Obviously I don't know a lot abouteelectricity either
Solar panels should be in parallel with your battery. Output from the solar panel will often be around 17v for a panel rated 12v. This is needed to charge a SLA battery, but your amplifier wont like voltage this high, so you should never connect the solar panel direct to the amplifier, always connect it like Solarpanel->Battery->Amplifier.
Depending on how big a solar panel you choose and which battery you have, you might want to look into buying a solar panel charge controller. I don't know exactly when you will need a charge controller, but it has been discussed earlier in this thread (I wish you the best luck going through the pages)
Depending on how big a solar panel you choose and which battery you have, you might want to look into buying a solar panel charge controller. I don't know exactly when you will need a charge controller, but it has been discussed earlier in this thread (I wish you the best luck going through the pages)