These manifold designs have may parts and joints at the folds, so altogether a lot of glue surface area.. Providing you're not planning on trucking them around or otherwise subjecting them to a lot of handling abuse, good quality wood cabinetmaking glue alone should be plenty fine. Something with a quick tack time helps speed things up, which is where some of the polyurethanes (Gorilla, etc) or 2 part epoxy types have a distinct disadvantage on a build with this many parts.
When I built the Aiko and Maeshowe/Valiant, I used Dural yellow PVA, lots of spacers between panels and folds, and did cheat a bit with a brad nail gun at the 90deg corners. Biscuits, dowels, pocket screws. confirmats, etc would significantly extend layout and assembly time, with quite honestly little improvement in required degree of overall structural integrity. Domestic speaker cabinets need to be rigid and sealed where appropriate, but they're not subject to the stress of supporting say a 3cm thick granite countertop.
clamps, lotsa clamps and cauls - such as a couple of 2x4 wall studs
Thanks ChrisB
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The fostex fe206fn's are on their way so I hope the will arrive here in a week or two.
Are there any updates to expected shortly before I start with the woodwork for the Kirishima?
I am considering building the version with the alternate deflector with the top angled at the rear and maybe even the bottom if I can figure out a nice way to support them so they wont fall backwards. This unless this will negatively influence the sound quality. Will this make a difference in sound compared to the stepped deflector version?
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The fostex fe206fn's are on their way so I hope the will arrive here in a week or two.
Are there any updates to expected shortly before I start with the woodwork for the Kirishima?
I am considering building the version with the alternate deflector with the top angled at the rear and maybe even the bottom if I can figure out a nice way to support them so they wont fall backwards. This unless this will negatively influence the sound quality. Will this make a difference in sound compared to the stepped deflector version?
Hi Dave,
Can you direct me to where in the forum where I might download the template for EnAbling Fe126's for the Saburo (Kongo)?
I too wondered about biscuits and dowels but I think these may cause nodes or patterns of flexing. I'm not sure how to think about this. I read elsewhere in these forums about the 2 part epoxy favoured by boat builders and I think I'll be going with this stuff. Any brand names to look for that you know of?
Can you direct me to where in the forum where I might download the template for EnAbling Fe126's for the Saburo (Kongo)?
I too wondered about biscuits and dowels but I think these may cause nodes or patterns of flexing. I'm not sure how to think about this. I read elsewhere in these forums about the 2 part epoxy favoured by boat builders and I think I'll be going with this stuff. Any brand names to look for that you know of?
Personally, I'd stick with simple butt joints. Not that I'm much of a woodworker (cough -understatement of the week there), but with the total glue area available, these cabinets are pretty much bomb proof without resorting to fancier jointing, some of which may even weaken the structure.
I'd expect efficiency losses to be relatively minor. It doesn't make any difference what box they're in from that POV; a back-load only functions over a fairly narrow BW.
I'd expect efficiency losses to be relatively minor. It doesn't make any difference what box they're in from that POV; a back-load only functions over a fairly narrow BW.
or at the very least add significant layout and fabrication time - I'd never dissuade anyone from "cheating" with brad nail gun, at the very least for internal joints that will never be seen - a third hand while positioning the clamps and cauls.
for that matter, since I almost always post veneer the exterior of my enclosures, I tend to make very liberal use of nail gun
as for glue - slow curing polyurethane or 2 part epoxy glues can also add a lot to assembly time- standard yellow wood glue (pick your favorite brand) is just fine
Anyone? I think I prefer the looks of the alternative deflector but i prefer not to make a concession when it come to sound quality.
Thanks
I'd be inclined to the stepped deflectors as much for added mass / panel damping as anything - and note that the Saburo / Kongo ( for FE126E) are quite narrow - enough so that some type of stabilizing base plate or outrigger / footer arrangement should be considered mandatory.
some of these are 72" or taller, so be very careful providing stable ballast when tilting, and with the driver mounted at vertical centerline, very little angle would indeed make a big difference in dispersion pattern - they already have rather long minimal listening position ( i.e. 3 meters), and aren't particularly well suited to smaller rooms
True. You can loosen the driver mounting a bit to bleed off pressure & damp etc., but they're not an ideal choice for small spaces.
Believe it or not, a few months ago I actually had to turn down a beautiful pair of ash-veneered FH3s offered to me gratis because I physically don't have space. Oh well.
Believe it or not, a few months ago I actually had to turn down a beautiful pair of ash-veneered FH3s offered to me gratis because I physically don't have space. Oh well.
I drove around the entire island (not that hard to do) but unfortunately there's no 19mm wood. All is 18mm.
Can I convert the plan of the Kirishima to 18mm and how do I do that?
I am thinking that changing to 18mm while keeping the internal distances the same will in the end change the volume within.
Can I convert the plan of the Kirishima to 18mm and how do I do that?
I am thinking that changing to 18mm while keeping the internal distances the same will in the end change the volume within.
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