I heard the fe206 in a mltl and to be honest I really was unhappy with the hf, it sounded like the off axis response of my speakers no matter where you were. I'm 17 and I can heard to 18000hz easy, thats probably why. It had great mid and low range but it was in desperate need of a helper tweeter. My Fe108e sigmas have vastly better hf to my ears, which is not surprising considering their much smaller...
I don't think i would get those drivers for that reason, though depending on how high you can hear it may not be an issue. I would rather have the alpair 12s I think
Question,
I have a pair of Sachiko's good few years old, happy with them
use them with either a chipamp or a 300b single ended
looking to build something new,
would like to build and use the 166en's
Anybody care to give a subjective opinion on how the Hiro/Haruna sound compared to the Sachiko's ?
thx,
L
I have a pair of Sachiko's good few years old, happy with them
use them with either a chipamp or a 300b single ended
looking to build something new,
would like to build and use the 166en's
Anybody care to give a subjective opinion on how the Hiro/Haruna sound compared to the Sachiko's ?
thx,
L
Hello from Germany!
First, please excused my english
I will build a Sachiko or Kirishima Horn.
I will use the Sica 426 : Sica Breitbandlautsprecher LP208.38/426T
qts 0,55 / BL 5,47 Tm
or better? Sica 1100 4Ohm : Sica Breitbandlautsprecher LP208.38/1100 4 Ohm
with lower qts 0,24 and higher BL 9,17 Tm
or Sica 1100 8Ohm: http://www.spectrumaudio.de/breit/sica/sicaLP208.38.1100.html qts 0,31 BL 11,18Tm
Is this possible?
grüsse Madrigal
First, please excused my english
I will build a Sachiko or Kirishima Horn.
I will use the Sica 426 : Sica Breitbandlautsprecher LP208.38/426T
qts 0,55 / BL 5,47 Tm
or better? Sica 1100 4Ohm : Sica Breitbandlautsprecher LP208.38/1100 4 Ohm
with lower qts 0,24 and higher BL 9,17 Tm
or Sica 1100 8Ohm: http://www.spectrumaudio.de/breit/sica/sicaLP208.38.1100.html qts 0,31 BL 11,18Tm
Is this possible?
grüsse Madrigal
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Your English is a lot better than my German.
From your links:
Sica 426 = completely unsuitable
Sica 1100 (4ohm) = better
Sica 1100 (8 ohm) = the best of the three.
Since these are not small cabinets & relatively expensive to make for obvious reasons, I would suggest that you use the driver I designed it for (the FE206En). It's more expensive, but given the outlay for the cabinet materials, the cheaper units would be a false economy, especially since the enclosure was not designed for them & isn't balanced to their characteristics. If it means waiting a few more weeks to save the 100 extra Euros a pair of the Fostex would cost over a pair of the 8ohm Sicas, then I'd strongly advise doing that.
From your links:
Sica 426 = completely unsuitable
Sica 1100 (4ohm) = better
Sica 1100 (8 ohm) = the best of the three.
Since these are not small cabinets & relatively expensive to make for obvious reasons, I would suggest that you use the driver I designed it for (the FE206En). It's more expensive, but given the outlay for the cabinet materials, the cheaper units would be a false economy, especially since the enclosure was not designed for them & isn't balanced to their characteristics. If it means waiting a few more weeks to save the 100 extra Euros a pair of the Fostex would cost over a pair of the 8ohm Sicas, then I'd strongly advise doing that.
Thx for detailed answer!
The problem: The speaker stand left and right from a Beamer Screen. The best is all in Front in Black! I will not see a Yellow Speaker in my "eye angle"
The wood is a little problem, i have 19mm "Verlegeplatten"
I would finish, in wallpaper black mat.
More expensive but ever build in Sachiko , is the Audio Nirvana super 8 CF.... but the price.
Unfortunately, there are no so big horns for Sicas.
Alternative is the Jericho08Si
Problen i have max 45cm width, the Sachiko or Kirishima is smaler than Jericho Horn's.
try or not try , that is the question^^
grüss Madrigal
The problem: The speaker stand left and right from a Beamer Screen. The best is all in Front in Black! I will not see a Yellow Speaker in my "eye angle
"The wood is a little problem, i have 19mm "Verlegeplatten"
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I would finish, in wallpaper black mat.
More expensive but ever build in Sachiko , is the Audio Nirvana super 8 CF.... but the price.
Unfortunately, there are no so big horns for Sicas.
Alternative is the Jericho08Si
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Problen i have max 45cm width, the Sachiko or Kirishima is smaler than Jericho Horn's.
try or not try , that is the question^^
grüss Madrigal
Not a problem.
Fostex cones can be very easily dyed black with some food colouring or similar. Dave (Planet10) will no doubt be able to advise since he regularly colours cones in a wide variety of shades.
The indicated material (chipboard / particleboard) in 19mm is not ideal for Kirishima since it won't be stiff enough. However, if you doubled the side & rear panels (or laminated another 1/4in - 1/2in thickness to them) it should work acceptably. Void-free birch ply or similar is the prefered option.
The AN cast frame is not ideal for Kirishima & won't produce as much gain. As noted, I designed it for the FE206En and FE208ESigma so other units are entirely at-own-risk (i.e. don't blame me or the box if it doesn't work out )
I could do a one-off large horn design for the Sica units, but since they aren't very well known / all that easily available internationally, I doubt it would be worth it as a general DIY offering since they wouldn't have wide appeal. If you really want to use a Sica driver, the 8ohm model will have the best chance of working in Kirishima, & will likely be acceptable, but I make no promises.
Fostex cones can be very easily dyed black with some food colouring or similar. Dave (Planet10) will no doubt be able to advise since he regularly colours cones in a wide variety of shades.
The indicated material (chipboard / particleboard) in 19mm is not ideal for Kirishima since it won't be stiff enough. However, if you doubled the side & rear panels (or laminated another 1/4in - 1/2in thickness to them) it should work acceptably. Void-free birch ply or similar is the prefered option.
The AN cast frame is not ideal for Kirishima & won't produce as much gain. As noted, I designed it for the FE206En and FE208ESigma so other units are entirely at-own-risk (i.e. don't blame me or the box if it doesn't work out
)I could do a one-off large horn design for the Sica units, but since they aren't very well known / all that easily available internationally, I doubt it would be worth it as a general DIY offering since they wouldn't have wide appeal. If you really want to use a Sica driver, the 8ohm model will have the best chance of working in Kirishima, & will likely be acceptable, but I make no promises.
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Thanks for the detailed answer!
I am overwhelmed by the size and I will build!
Whether it be colored Fostex or the Sica1100 - I'm still.
Doubled chipboard, no problem - ok the weight....
The Birch ply costs 5x more than chipboard (5,55€ / > 25€)
One more question:
Exist measurements of the FE206En in Sachiko housing?
I'm going to build as much as possible here to document it.
Thank you for taking the time for me.
grüsse Madrigal
I am overwhelmed by the size and I will build!
Whether it be colored Fostex or the Sica1100 - I'm still.
Doubled chipboard, no problem - ok the weight....
The Birch ply costs 5x more than chipboard (5,55€ / > 25€)
One more question:
Exist measurements of the FE206En in Sachiko housing?
I'm going to build as much as possible here to document it.
Thank you for taking the time for me.
grüsse MadrigalHello,
I'm building a pair of Kirishima's. So far so good. I'm building them from poplar plywood as birch is really expensive here and these are my first diy speakers so I'm probably will make some mistakes the first time. The plywood has also less layers as quality birch plywood.
One speaker is almost finished and I've listened to it closed with clamps. The second is also ready for about 50%. As amplifier I have a self build Vanderveen UL40-S2 Tube amplifier ( in triode mode. It sound great, more open as my current speakers (old Kef q50)
Finish is yet unknown, that's for later after listening to them for a while ;-)
I'm building a pair of Kirishima's. So far so good. I'm building them from poplar plywood as birch is really expensive here and these are my first diy speakers so I'm probably will make some mistakes the first time. The plywood has also less layers as quality birch plywood.
One speaker is almost finished and I've listened to it closed with clamps. The second is also ready for about 50%. As amplifier I have a self build Vanderveen UL40-S2 Tube amplifier ( in triode mode. It sound great, more open as my current speakers (old Kef q50)
Finish is yet unknown, that's for later after listening to them for a while ;-)
Attachments
frequency response?
Hi,
anyone who measured the KIRISHIMA speakers (with Fostex Fe206en, as supposed) and can show the frequency response as diagram?
Before building such monsters, the DIYer should know what he has to expect...
And: anyone out there who simply HEARD those Kirishimas and can give a short description (or a source in the net)?
thanks, greetings from germany!
speedy
Hi,
anyone who measured the KIRISHIMA speakers (with Fostex Fe206en, as supposed) and can show the frequency response as diagram?
Before building such monsters
, the DIYer should know what he has to expect...And: anyone out there who simply HEARD those Kirishimas and can give a short description (or a source in the net)?
thanks, greetings from germany!
speedy
I built a pair for a party during the summer while I was in the U.S, I ordered a pair of Fe206en's but they didn't come "till I'd left. We used my Fe203en-s which is obviously not the right driver but they sounded great, big and very dynamic, I don't think you'll regret building them unless you have space or wife issues.
differences
Hello Dave
Could you tell me what the differences are between the Saburo and the Kongo
Thanks
Owen
No not yet, but really close...
Thr 3 optimized horns for the Fostex FE126En, FE166En, and FE206En have been approved as drawn. I have a bit more tidying to do before official release.
They could have been called Saburo v2, Hiro v2, and Sachiko v2, but that is a bit boring. They will be known as Kongō, Haruna, and Kirishima.
Here is a preview of Kongō. As can be seen differences from what preceeded are only in the details.
dave
Hello Dave
Could you tell me what the differences are between the Saburo and the Kongo
Thanks
Owen
Ypu'll have to ask Scott for detail... with 3 years more experience, feedback from Saburo, and optimized for the currently available FE126En, it is an upgrade.
dave
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