I guess one could scrutinize over the minutia of differences between the 2 drawings and reverse engineer how those would interplay with the revised T/S parameters of the driver - oops, Scott did that already
Apologies if this is in the wrong thread (there might be a completed projects thread for this build) but here are a pair (actually two pairs) that some local (South African) builders tackled this last week.
Sounds great!!!
Olson-Nagaoka Horn - in room
Here is a link to more pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/alternativeroute/sets/72157633284350629/
As you can see they are still not 'finished'...
Sounds great!!!
Olson-Nagaoka Horn - in room
Here is a link to more pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/alternativeroute/sets/72157633284350629/
As you can see they are still not 'finished'...
I just helped out but they used what the shop termed 'shutter ply'... To me it looked more like what we term 'interior ply'. 18mm 11-ply with a very thin Sapele veneer on both sides...
This was definitely more a 'proof of concept' build so the the ply is not too great and the construction was brad nailed with glue... Cheap as chips. The total cost for the ply for the four cabs was R1200 or US$132.27 or NZ$155.33
Birch ply would of almost been triple that...
If both guys are happy I would not be surprised to see one pair getting done proper with Birch Ply... We are still itching to try a Ron horn (between us we have done a Bass reflex, Fostex cab, a Frugal horn and a Bigger is Better)...
Here were my (initial raw) listening impressions as posted on our local-yokal forum:
This was definitely more a 'proof of concept' build so the the ply is not too great and the construction was brad nailed with glue... Cheap as chips. The total cost for the ply for the four cabs was R1200 or US$132.27 or NZ$155.33
Birch ply would of almost been triple that...
If both guys are happy I would not be surprised to see one pair getting done proper with Birch Ply... We are still itching to try a Ron horn (between us we have done a Bass reflex, Fostex cab, a Frugal horn and a Bigger is Better)...
Here were my (initial raw) listening impressions as posted on our local-yokal forum:
Thanks for the reply and for posting your listening impressions ��
I did build a proof of concept of these in 15mm MDF (I know, I know) but I was able to obtain 25 full sheets for $50, and a single sheet of 11 layer ply costs $100 each, and to be honest, I enjoyed this design more than any other so far. I have now built 6 different cabinets and once I find one I like most, I will build in ply.
I did build a proof of concept of these in 15mm MDF (I know, I know) but I was able to obtain 25 full sheets for $50, and a single sheet of 11 layer ply costs $100 each, and to be honest, I enjoyed this design more than any other so far. I have now built 6 different cabinets and once I find one I like most, I will build in ply.
Just completed a set of Kirishima horn as part of my first DIY project. Sounds fabulous with a Voxativ AC1.5 driver. I would characterise the sound as spacious, dynamic and balanced. Great design.
I did try a Lowther PM6C driver but it made my ears bleed with its inherent "shoutiness" so I was desperate for an alternative driver. The Voxativ is the perfect driver as it doesn't seem to mind what sort of cabinet you whack it into...it has prodigious bass for a single driver and has all of the single point speaker advantages and very little of its weaknesses.
If I had to do it again, I would not attempt to use a circular saw to cut all of the pieces. I would get a pro to cut it via CNC machine then I just do the IKEA thing of putting it together.
I did try a Lowther PM6C driver but it made my ears bleed with its inherent "shoutiness" so I was desperate for an alternative driver. The Voxativ is the perfect driver as it doesn't seem to mind what sort of cabinet you whack it into...it has prodigious bass for a single driver and has all of the single point speaker advantages and very little of its weaknesses.
If I had to do it again, I would not attempt to use a circular saw to cut all of the pieces. I would get a pro to cut it via CNC machine then I just do the IKEA thing of putting it together.
I used A grade 18mm plywood as it was the only available type in the length I was looking for. All in all it would have cost me $500 of wood.
The plans were excellent. Very clear. I am grateful for such a great design and plans. The profile of the speakers are really attractive. I reckon Scott should design a monster masterpiece similar in concept manifold horn so its still easy to DIY but a monster size version...twice the width and twice the depth.
The plans were excellent. Very clear. I am grateful for such a great design and plans. The profile of the speakers are really attractive. I reckon Scott should design a monster masterpiece similar in concept manifold horn so its still easy to DIY but a monster size version...twice the width and twice the depth.
Had a friend come over for an extended listening session of the kirishima with voxativ 1.5 drivers. We both felt that bass was a little bit muddy on ray brown tracks then listening o other CDs confirmed it. The problem was that some mid frequencies could also be heard from the horn mouth which gave it a little bit of an echo like presentation which was smearing bass defining somewhat. I have fibreglass wool in the driver chamber on all sides except the throat.
So we thought we would experiment with thin layer of fibre glass wool from insulation bats placed at the last back wall of the horn mouth. Huge improvement to bass definition without losing any airiness to the music. Bass seem to be deeper and more tuneful. Bass impact is still the same but more articulate. I guess there is really a fine line between insufficient damping and too much. Happy experimenting. I just thought I should share my experience.
So we thought we would experiment with thin layer of fibre glass wool from insulation bats placed at the last back wall of the horn mouth. Huge improvement to bass definition without losing any airiness to the music. Bass seem to be deeper and more tuneful. Bass impact is still the same but more articulate. I guess there is really a fine line between insufficient damping and too much. Happy experimenting. I just thought I should share my experience.
The tall aspect ratio somehow mandates outriggers if one is to minimize the risk of the speaker toppling over.
Remember that these enclosures have a center of gravity at driver height and with the relatively slim base, a small nudge can send them falling over.
Indeed, 3 contact points would be all that's required- but for the front or back pair you definitely want an outrigger as well as height adjustment. On a tall / skinny cabinet it takes only a fraction of a degree off level / plumb to be really distracting.
we use 1/4" x 1 1/2" aluminum bar, tapped with threads to match those on the Dayton spikes ( M6 I think), and a lock washer and nut to secure the adjusted position.
Apologies for the late reply. The glass wool damping I put is against the vertical wall of both horn mouths. You can experiment. I am using a voxativ 1.5 drivers though so your treatment may differ. The voxativ driver is amazing as I have measured my speakers down to 27hz. I think the lowthers I had produced no bass below 37hz. The lowther shout just drove me up the wall.
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I'm going to go with the wool felt in the compression chamber (not the throat) as recommended by Scott. I'm going to use 1/4" steel bar for the outriggers as the weight of these things is getting up there.
I'm sure the voxactiv is amazing...at that price I would think exceptional.
build pics soon.
I'm sure the voxactiv is amazing...at that price I would think exceptional.
build pics soon.
I also have wool felt in the compression chamber but strongly felt it was not sufficient as the speaker still sounded honky. Bass and imaging really tightened up after I placed damping material at the mouth. Please remember that this applies only for th voxativ. Yeah at $2500 per set th voxativ wasn't cheap but it was the only single driver my ears could tolerate. It sounds very even from top to bottom.
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