Greets!
Not trying to put you down, just show you an option. There's enough absolutes in audio system design as it is, no sense in needlessly adding any more IMO.
Yeah, you ideally need OB, EBS, or sealed in such rooms, so a BLH would have to be damped to a fare-thee-well, rendering any useful subjective assessment virtually impossible.
GM
Not trying to put you down, just show you an option. There's enough absolutes in audio system design as it is, no sense in needlessly adding any more IMO.
Yeah, you ideally need OB, EBS, or sealed in such rooms, so a BLH would have to be damped to a fare-thee-well, rendering any useful subjective assessment virtually impossible.
GM
ShanaVar said:looking forward to hiro plans.
great work btw. i guess i will go for that once its here with fe166
Sachico & Hiro are next. They differ only in their width.
dave
Yes Dave, have a go at it
Especially depth of the Sachico plenum chamber is something I need to see the light. What's more, having that and doing a bit of W.A.G. I could try to run the contraption through AJHorn...just for fun - as soon as I can find the money I'll build them anyway. Would be nice to compare the simulations, though.
Cheers Pit
Especially depth of the Sachico plenum chamber is something I need to see the light. What's more, having that and doing a bit of W.A.G. I could try to run the contraption through AJHorn...just for fun - as soon as I can find the money I'll build them anyway. Would be nice to compare the simulations, though.
Cheers Pit
Ummmm Scott or Dave would this little gem work in a Harvey?
Ciare hx132
Nennimpedanz/Gleichstromwiderstand: 8/6,8 Ohm
Resonanzfrequenz: 65 Hz
Gütefaktoren(Qms/Qes/Qts): 1,96 / 0,73 / 0,53
Äquivalenzvolumen(Vas): 15 Liter
Effektive Membranfläche(Sd): 84 cm²
Antriebsfaktor(BL): 4,95 Wbm
Schwingspulenüberhang(Xmax): 4,25 mm
Schwingspuleninduktivität(Le): 0,2 mH
Apparently a great little driver.
Look at the Xmax of the thing!
Cheers Stroop
Ciare hx132
Nennimpedanz/Gleichstromwiderstand: 8/6,8 Ohm
Resonanzfrequenz: 65 Hz
Gütefaktoren(Qms/Qes/Qts): 1,96 / 0,73 / 0,53
Äquivalenzvolumen(Vas): 15 Liter
Effektive Membranfläche(Sd): 84 cm²
Antriebsfaktor(BL): 4,95 Wbm
Schwingspulenüberhang(Xmax): 4,25 mm
Schwingspuleninduktivität(Le): 0,2 mH
Apparently a great little driver.
Look at the Xmax of the thing!
Cheers Stroop
I wouldnt suppose modified versions of these enclosures would work with the Aura NS3-194-8E? Im having a hard time finding a suitable enclosure for these. They dont need to dip that low, but it would be nice. I already have them in hand so I dont know what to do with them...
ShanaVar said:do you use any damping wool in those hiro? when yes, where?
As a BVR you treat it just like a bass reflex... the walls of the ""CC" should be lined.
dave
Fast1one said:I wouldnt suppose modified versions of these enclosures would work with the Aura NS3-194-8E? Im having a hard time finding a suitable enclosure for these. They dont need to dip that low, but it would be nice. I already have them in hand so I dont know what to do with them...
Is that the one with the Fs of 125Hz? If so, then no chance. Sorry.
Re Hiro, the Nagaoka baxes can be treated like a regular horn. The BVRs (Harvey, Iris, Bruce & others) as Dave says, are basically BR boxes & need the same treatment. Line the chamber, some bracing of it wouldn't go amiss either.
Oh my dear
It is finally finished.
The first DIY speaker project in my life.
Many thanks to Scottmoose for his advice.
Oh No...., It is not finished yet.
The most important thing is missing... the driver, I am still waiting (and keep waiting...) for the FE126E that I ask one of my friend to buy it for me in Japan. The sole agent in HongKong is selling it at a crazy price and one month lead time.
It really took me more time than I did expected. The most time consuming is waiting each layer of glue on the ply wood to dry until I could stack another. I am using 6 layer of 1/8" ply wood to make each curve section. Only ordinary cheapy ply wood is used in this cabined. I also have to glued up two 1/2" ply wood to get 1" thick pannel. (I can hardly find 1" thick ply wood board in Hong Kong. Imported Finland ply wood board with 1" thickness is rare and expensive here)
I will post the construction process and plan of this cabinets in web later. Here is some photo
It is finally finished.
The first DIY speaker project in my life.
Many thanks to Scottmoose for his advice.
Oh No...., It is not finished yet.
The most important thing is missing... the driver, I am still waiting (and keep waiting...) for the FE126E that I ask one of my friend to buy it for me in Japan. The sole agent in HongKong is selling it at a crazy price and one month lead time.
It really took me more time than I did expected. The most time consuming is waiting each layer of glue on the ply wood to dry until I could stack another. I am using 6 layer of 1/8" ply wood to make each curve section. Only ordinary cheapy ply wood is used in this cabined. I also have to glued up two 1/2" ply wood to get 1" thick pannel. (I can hardly find 1" thick ply wood board in Hong Kong. Imported Finland ply wood board with 1" thickness is rare and expensive here)
I will post the construction process and plan of this cabinets in web later. Here is some photo
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