Er, just had the receptionist on the phone, seems this thread is 259 pages long, whoops, thats gonna be some great bed-time reading.
I would suggest a thread just for building the curved front Changs if anyone is in agreement, as they seem to be a newish design, and it will be easier to find information etc.
I would suggest a thread just for building the curved front Changs if anyone is in agreement, as they seem to be a newish design, and it will be easier to find information etc.
Chang's only been around since page 31 if that's any help? The early stuff is for different cabinets, and most has been superceeded to varying extents.
Tweeter position looks fine to me. Line the chamber with the same stuff as you would a regular reflex enclousre. Carpet underlay or BAF felt from Maplin are fine. If you want to shift the deflector angle to 45 degrees you should be able to; the difference isn't huge.
You could tell her you've taken an interest in art deco sculpture?
Tweeter position looks fine to me. Line the chamber with the same stuff as you would a regular reflex enclousre. Carpet underlay or BAF felt from Maplin are fine. If you want to shift the deflector angle to 45 degrees you should be able to; the difference isn't huge.
You could tell her you've taken an interest in art deco sculpture?
I was trying to get a feel for the size of them while she was watching her soaps, not the easiest thing to do with multiple sheets of 6x2 MDF. Told her twas a designer CD rack I was looking at, dont think I suceeded as various comments about CD racks having shelves instead of baffles made me think she'd caught on, and such language from a lady, my ears where red.
On a more positive note, she likes the look of the metronomes and is now harping on about a pair for our bedroom, (i've now a back order of 4 pairs from various kids including a shocking pink pair etc) To much WAF factor in the metronomes.
I'm going to have to sort out some amps soon, fancy some Pass ones when there are some PCB's available etc.
when done and in situ I dont think they'll be much of a problem.
On a more positive note, she likes the look of the metronomes and is now harping on about a pair for our bedroom, (i've now a back order of 4 pairs from various kids including a shocking pink pair etc) To much WAF factor in the metronomes.
I'm going to have to sort out some amps soon, fancy some Pass ones when there are some PCB's available etc.
when done and in situ I dont think they'll be much of a problem.
If I were to make the front baffle on the Sachico double thickness and in doing so extend the length of the horn mouths 3/4" (I wouldn't want the extra 3/4" to protrude), would that do anything dire to the sound? I'm wanting to make all the external walls double thickness, including the front baffle.
Also, are there any plans in the works to have a version of the Sachico that has two different length horns/mouth sizes to complement/cancel the resonances of the other? This has been mentioned before in the context of other designs, but I was wondering if there are any on the way for the Sachico.
I also have a question about the bass (I know, I know...). I've decided that 8" Fostex drivers in the BIB put them too high up, I like them roughly at ear height, so it seems that the 6" drivers seem to be the sweet spot for the BIB, but how would the bass compare between an 8" Sachico with an FE206ES-R to a BIB with an FE166E? Position would be against the back wall, but not in a corner. Ceilings are eight feet high.
Any help and insight would be appreciated...
Also, are there any plans in the works to have a version of the Sachico that has two different length horns/mouth sizes to complement/cancel the resonances of the other? This has been mentioned before in the context of other designs, but I was wondering if there are any on the way for the Sachico.
I also have a question about the bass (I know, I know...). I've decided that 8" Fostex drivers in the BIB put them too high up, I like them roughly at ear height, so it seems that the 6" drivers seem to be the sweet spot for the BIB, but how would the bass compare between an 8" Sachico with an FE206ES-R to a BIB with an FE166E? Position would be against the back wall, but not in a corner. Ceilings are eight feet high.
Any help and insight would be appreciated...
Great work guys.
I really like the curved design and as I have a pair of FE206E's I am thinking a trip to our local "Bunnings" is in order.
Just 2 questions if someone would care to enlighten me.
1: Is above driver suitable and I was going to get a set of phase plugs for them as well.
2: I was thinking of instead of a supper tweeter what about something like Zaph waveguide tweeter? (with suitable X over)
I think this would look good too.
Ian
I really like the curved design and as I have a pair of FE206E's I am thinking a trip to our local "Bunnings" is in order.
Just 2 questions if someone would care to enlighten me.
1: Is above driver suitable and I was going to get a set of phase plugs for them as well.
2: I was thinking of instead of a supper tweeter what about something like Zaph waveguide tweeter? (with suitable X over)
I think this would look good too.
Ian
Chang
Go on Marce, try the backmounted tweeter. Take on a challenge.
I'm going to make a spacer ring the thickness of the torus on the front of the FT17H then I only have a flare to cut in the baffle. you may want to move your tweeter a little bit further from the edge in order to fit the flare in if you do so.
I've worked out the panel dimensions for the angled back version if anyone is interested, Though seeing the art deco one I think I might go with that, very nice and a simpler build as well. I'm a little worried about cutting the panel lengths precisely right with 22.5 degree cuts thrown in the mix.
Suggest we continue this on a Chang thread, either jump aboard Chang's Chang or create a new one.
Go on Marce, try the backmounted tweeter. Take on a challenge.
I'm going to make a spacer ring the thickness of the torus on the front of the FT17H then I only have a flare to cut in the baffle. you may want to move your tweeter a little bit further from the edge in order to fit the flare in if you do so.
I've worked out the panel dimensions for the angled back version if anyone is interested, Though seeing the art deco one I think I might go with that, very nice and a simpler build as well. I'm a little worried about cutting the panel lengths precisely right with 22.5 degree cuts thrown in the mix.
Suggest we continue this on a Chang thread, either jump aboard Chang's Chang or create a new one.
A couple of months ago I was talking with chrisb about several of these designs and I decided on Harvey with 126's or 108's. I got the wood ripped into strips professionally but thankfully never got a chance to build them. Since then, we've seen newer versions of our favorite BVR's and now the curvy Chang.
I'm in love with the curvy Chang - very easy to build, beautiful, don't need corners, can be stepped or you can use a flat panel (according to the plans), and response as smooth as a baby's butt. Since I also have 206's I will probably get around to these sooner or later.
I've got 2 questions. First, does the Chang have enough low end gain? Bruce looks to be about 3 db stronger down low, while Sachico is about 10 db or more heavier at some points in the midbass. Chang's flat response is stunning, but is there enough bass to keep up with the screaming treble of the 206?
Second, are there plans for a curvy Chang variant for the 126/108? Maybe next? (Just kidding, this project has already been in the works for months, I can wait.)
I'm in love with the curvy Chang - very easy to build, beautiful, don't need corners, can be stepped or you can use a flat panel (according to the plans), and response as smooth as a baby's butt. Since I also have 206's I will probably get around to these sooner or later.
I've got 2 questions. First, does the Chang have enough low end gain? Bruce looks to be about 3 db stronger down low, while Sachico is about 10 db or more heavier at some points in the midbass. Chang's flat response is stunning, but is there enough bass to keep up with the screaming treble of the 206?
Second, are there plans for a curvy Chang variant for the 126/108? Maybe next? (Just kidding, this project has already been in the works for months, I can wait.)
I expect the low end of the chang would be better directed, Bruce was really meant for the FE207E which is a bassier driver so make sure you're reading the right response plot. Speaking of which in the real world Sachiko would be much flatter than the theoretical plot indicates.
You can fiddle the bass afterward by playing with the series resistance. Have a look at the impedance curve of the 206 and you'll see what I mean. You can use 2 terminals of an L-pad as the resistance to work out what value works well for you and your amplifier. Watch where you put the series resistance, you may need to take it into account when working out your tweeter circuit (if you add one).
One thing you must do to the 206: Phase plugs. I can't recall anyone having anything less than excellent results from taking a knife to their drivers.
You can fiddle the bass afterward by playing with the series resistance. Have a look at the impedance curve of the 206 and you'll see what I mean. You can use 2 terminals of an L-pad as the resistance to work out what value works well for you and your amplifier. Watch where you put the series resistance, you may need to take it into account when working out your tweeter circuit (if you add one).
One thing you must do to the 206: Phase plugs. I can't recall anyone having anything less than excellent results from taking a knife to their drivers.
Thanks Mike, but I bought the drivers used and pre modded already with phase plugs, so the work is already done. I might try plugs in the 108's one day though.
I realize that the room will mess with the overall response, but I prefer as close to flat as possible, for max compatiblility with a variety of different rooms.
Actually, building and moving into a much larger listening room is the reason I never got around to assembling Harvey v1.
Now that the BVRs will have curves I can't imagine not utilizing this new design feature. Not sure how much of the 206's 96 db sensitivity is wasted with the 4 ohm resistor, maybe the low end is perfect. Just seemed like a HUGE difference compared to the Sachico using the same driver.
I realize that the room will mess with the overall response, but I prefer as close to flat as possible, for max compatiblility with a variety of different rooms.
Actually, building and moving into a much larger listening room is the reason I never got around to assembling Harvey v1.
Now that the BVRs will have curves I can't imagine not utilizing this new design feature. Not sure how much of the 206's 96 db sensitivity is wasted with the 4 ohm resistor, maybe the low end is perfect. Just seemed like a HUGE difference compared to the Sachico using the same driver.
Well, that's the basic difference. The BVRs are basically an MLTL or BR cabinet with horn loaded vents (although thanks to Ron in particular, they're becoming much more advanced than that seems to imply) while the stepped designs are closer to the more usually seen hybrid BLHs, where I've gone for higher gain. I'll have to leave it to the builders to report on their respective LF performance as I don't currently have the time or funds to build a pair of either or both for my own use. 
A curved Chang or the smaller 167 version currently in the works will be my next build, but it'll probably be early next year (if I'm lucky) before I can get started.
A curved Chang or the smaller 167 version currently in the works will be my next build, but it'll probably be early next year (if I'm lucky) before I can get started.Where are people putting their speaker connectors?
I'm trying to figure out where to put the terminal cup on my Harveys and how to run the hookup wire (probably cat5) to the driver.
Can I just run it through the holes in the vent? I imagine that a single wire won't really block things, but I'm not sure.
I'm trying to figure out where to put the terminal cup on my Harveys and how to run the hookup wire (probably cat5) to the driver.
Can I just run it through the holes in the vent? I imagine that a single wire won't really block things, but I'm not sure.