planet10 said:
I see 2 different figures for protrusion, ron suggests 7.2", and Dave, are u suggesting 15"? (with total depth than will be 15+12 15/16=27 15/16")
Is A(baffle inset): 3/4" from Dave's suggestion, and 1.1" from ronc?
Little confused, plan on using the 8" Pioneer.
gychang
Attachments
Are Coral Flat 8 suitable for BVR or Sachiko?
I have a pair of Coral Flat 8 and am wondering if they are suitable for either the BVR or Sachiko?
A fellow DIYer measured the drivers' T/S parameters as:
http://diyparadise.com/coral_enclosures.html
Thanks for due advice
I have a pair of Coral Flat 8 and am wondering if they are suitable for either the BVR or Sachiko?
A fellow DIYer measured the drivers' T/S parameters as:
http://diyparadise.com/coral_enclosures.html
Thanks for due advice
Can someone please clarify a few things about the Chang.
Is the front baffle 240mm wide?
Are the internal dimensions of the box in the middle 240W 264D (to the little vertical bits at the back) and 750 high?
The Bass reflex 206 enclosure shows a central brace with a 180 x 180 square cutout in it. This is not shown in the sketches, it may be worthwhile making a holey brace from the back of the driver to the back panel to replace the big triangle.
I suggest a total cabinet depth including the curved front of less than 600mm or about 23.5 inches. Any deeper than this and it requires some very careful cutting of the curves from a full sheet because the end of one curve will finish inside the rectangle of the other one, ie: sides are cut from opposite corners of the sheet. OTOH this might be a good thing, what is the radius of the curved cut? is the centre within the bounds of the sheet?
Where would be the best place for a FT17H super tweeter?
on an outrigger on one side in line with the centre.
above the main driver directly on the baffle, offset to one side.
Above the main driver on a 1.1 inch high dome on the baffle.
very close next to the main driver half sticking out the side (assemble the cabinet and drill straight into the edge of the side panel with a holesaw)
Is the front baffle 240mm wide?
Are the internal dimensions of the box in the middle 240W 264D (to the little vertical bits at the back) and 750 high?
The Bass reflex 206 enclosure shows a central brace with a 180 x 180 square cutout in it. This is not shown in the sketches, it may be worthwhile making a holey brace from the back of the driver to the back panel to replace the big triangle.
I suggest a total cabinet depth including the curved front of less than 600mm or about 23.5 inches. Any deeper than this and it requires some very careful cutting of the curves from a full sheet because the end of one curve will finish inside the rectangle of the other one, ie: sides are cut from opposite corners of the sheet. OTOH this might be a good thing, what is the radius of the curved cut? is the centre within the bounds of the sheet?
Where would be the best place for a FT17H super tweeter?
on an outrigger on one side in line with the centre.
above the main driver directly on the baffle, offset to one side.
Above the main driver on a 1.1 inch high dome on the baffle.
very close next to the main driver half sticking out the side (assemble the cabinet and drill straight into the edge of the side panel with a holesaw)
OzMikeH said:
Yes.
Internal dimensions (i have added the missing ones to the master drawing)
Bracing driver is always a good idea. The triangle serves a different purpose.
is 511 OK
79 11/64" (2011mm)
only if you have a REALLY big sheet
That would be my 1st inclination (mirror imaged pairs). I have been considering what it would take to rear mount the tweeter, and extend its flare into a smoother termination.
dave
planet10 said:
I like the sound of that idea very much. It could be made to be the right depth to match acoustic centres of the FT17H and FE207.
I'm sure someone
could get these horn extensions CNC machined from laminated stacks of their birch ply offcuts and sell them from their Canadian commercial site. These adapters would be fitted through a hole cut in the baffle from the rear. If the overall diameter was less than 185mm they could be put into already made cabinets via the driver hole. I'd suggest making them to suit 3/4 inch baffles, the top edge could be sanded off for 18mm baffles.
See the rough sketch. red is the baffle.
Attachments
planet10 said:
Since this will be my first using the 8" Pioneer,
1. Do I need the bracing?
2. Do I need to extend the back of the driver to the backwall of the cabinet somehow? (dowel? or divider with large holes)
3. Since I usually install the driver on last after finishing the cabinet, should I make an extra opening on the backwall of the cabinet, that can be used to adjust and seal the cabinet? (will make it more complicated...)
gychang
Since this will be my first using the 8" Pioneer,
( IMO i wouldnt waste the wood, but thats just an opinion)
1. Do I need the bracing?
2. Do I need to extend the back of the driver to the backwall of the cabinet somehow? (dowel? or divider with large holes)
3. Since I usually install the driver on last after finishing the cabinet, should I make an extra opening on the backwall of the cabinet, that can be used to adjust and seal the cabinet? (will make it more complicated...)
gychang
1: The more the better.
2: It will help, but i cant see the point. A thicker/greater mass baffle works and is easier.
3: Why complicate things?
ron
( IMO i wouldnt waste the wood, but thats just an opinion)
1. Do I need the bracing?
2. Do I need to extend the back of the driver to the backwall of the cabinet somehow? (dowel? or divider with large holes)
3. Since I usually install the driver on last after finishing the cabinet, should I make an extra opening on the backwall of the cabinet, that can be used to adjust and seal the cabinet? (will make it more complicated...)
gychang
1: The more the better.
2: It will help, but i cant see the point. A thicker/greater mass baffle works and is easier.
3: Why complicate things?
ron
That picture is an alternative mounting method for the Fostex FT17H supertweeter. It is not an extra baffle, it is a way of installing the driver from the rear of the baffle instead of from the front.
The brace I was talking about is from the back of the main driver magnet to the rear of the cabinet.
If your Pioneer drivers have a reasonable frame I wouldn't bother.
In fact it's a lot of effort for doubtful benefit.
The brace I was talking about is from the back of the main driver magnet to the rear of the cabinet.
If your Pioneer drivers have a reasonable frame I wouldn't bother.
In fact it's a lot of effort for doubtful benefit.
