gychang said:
Errm... Where did you get that from ? Or is it just a nice re-rendering of the exsting curved chang (with a hole for FT17, by the looks of it) ?
Apropos curved Chang:
- Dave: On frugel-horn site the image of the curved chang is a link to calhoun.jpg
- Scortt, Ron: Did I understand it correctly that the current curved chang is optimized for the 206 and a version optimized for the 167 is in the works (based on Ron's availab) ? Ron, would you venture a "on-paper", apriori comparison of the curved chang for 167 with A166 (except easier to build, of course
)?Any guidlines / advice on integrating a tweeter (FT17H ?) with the curved chang, either the 206 or the 167 versions ?
Greets,
Florian
P.S. sorry if this has been addressed already, been out of this thread for a while.
Chang is designed for the FE207E / Pioneer B20 / FE206E (with 4ohms of series resistance added to the 206). There's a new design coming for the FE167E -the basic box is already done, and Ron's going to design a curved front for it when he gets time -he's a bit snowed under with work at present (I know the feeling).
Personally, I'd get the tweeter as close as possible to the main drive-unit, but there are other people here who are better at that sort of thing than me. Ron's dealt with it in the Curved Chang thread I believe.
Personally, I'd get the tweeter as close as possible to the main drive-unit, but there are other people here who are better at that sort of thing than me. Ron's dealt with it in the Curved Chang thread I believe.
FlorianO said:
I got it originally from Dave, before the curved version started to form. Both original and the later the Cuved Chang is on this page in pdf form near the bottom.
http://www.frugal-horn.com/spawn.html
gychang
which for FE107E?
I have pair of Fostex FE107E sitting around in the garage, I have finished the Chang using Pioneer B20 drivers but sound is not quite stellar.
I like to build another using Fostex.
---
Fostex 4” SHIELDED FULL RANGE
ES banana pulp cone
8 ohm impedance
90dB sensitivity
Frequency response
to 22kHz
Flange 107mm
Cut-out 92mm
Depth 54.7mm
Znom 8 ohm
Re 7.6 ohm
Le@1kHz - mH
fs 80 Hz
Qms 2.56
Qes 0.45
Qts 0.38
Mms 2.6 g
Cms 0.0017 mm/N
Sd 0.005 cm2
BL 4.7 N/A
Vas 5.95 ltrs
Xmax 0.35 mm peak
VC Ø 20 mm
Sensitivity
1W / 1m 90 dB
Nom. Power 15 W
---
Shall I try Harvey or Mikasa? would appreciate any suggestions.
gychang
I have pair of Fostex FE107E sitting around in the garage, I have finished the Chang using Pioneer B20 drivers but sound is not quite stellar.
I like to build another using Fostex.
---
Fostex 4” SHIELDED FULL RANGE
ES banana pulp cone
8 ohm impedance
90dB sensitivity
Frequency response
to 22kHz
Flange 107mm
Cut-out 92mm
Depth 54.7mm
Znom 8 ohm
Re 7.6 ohm
Le@1kHz - mH
fs 80 Hz
Qms 2.56
Qes 0.45
Qts 0.38
Mms 2.6 g
Cms 0.0017 mm/N
Sd 0.005 cm2
BL 4.7 N/A
Vas 5.95 ltrs
Xmax 0.35 mm peak
VC Ø 20 mm
Sensitivity
1W / 1m 90 dB
Nom. Power 15 W
---
Shall I try Harvey or Mikasa? would appreciate any suggestions.
gychang
Attachments
Re: Re: which for FE107E?
I sure wish I could put together or mod t-amps but know nothing about electronics. One time I tried to put together a kit amp, amp6BASIC, "anyone can build" and of course it didn't work in my hands.
Am debating whether to get Trend Micro TA10.1 or Charlize, since neither requires much assembly.
I have built several speakers but only have 2 in the house, since I usually give them away.
gychang
OzMikeH said:
start building amplifiers instead. they take less space than speakers and you (in particular) must need lots of them by now.
I sure wish I could put together or mod t-amps but know nothing about electronics. One time I tried to put together a kit amp, amp6BASIC, "anyone can build" and of course it didn't work in my hands.
Am debating whether to get Trend Micro TA10.1 or Charlize, since neither requires much assembly.
I have built several speakers but only have 2 in the house, since I usually give them away.
gychang
I'm also looking at the TA10.1 for use as a tweeter amplifier.
I'd discard the housing and connectors and just use the board as a power amp. it seems a shame to do so. Perhaps I can re-use it for something else.
If you understand plumbing and fluid flow then electronics isn't much of a leap. most assembly problems are from poor soldering or putting polarised components in the wrong way. Start simple with some small projects with a handful of parts like a small oscillator or a single transistor amplifier. Then study and measure how your little circuit works. From there it's just building blocks.
I'd discard the housing and connectors and just use the board as a power amp. it seems a shame to do so. Perhaps I can re-use it for something else.
If you understand plumbing and fluid flow then electronics isn't much of a leap. most assembly problems are from poor soldering or putting polarised components in the wrong way. Start simple with some small projects with a handful of parts like a small oscillator or a single transistor amplifier. Then study and measure how your little circuit works. From there it's just building blocks.
With what I want to do to it it won't actually fit in the original box. those air cored inductors would be much better on the other side of the board behind the ground plane. All connections on the T-amp will be direct wired.
Option one: a T amp and a tube amp.
One box with active crossovers. Only 5 connectors: Mains Power, Left in, Right in, Left out, right out. I'll use Speakon sockets with 4 core cables going to each speaker. Bi-amping with what looks like a single cable.
Nothing on the front but a power switch. Don't need a power lamp with all of those filaments burning away..
Option 2: Two T amps.
One T amp in the bottom of each Chang with active crossover.
On the back: mains power socket, a switch and an RCA socket for the Preamp connection. Maybe some soft lighting shining out the vents for a power indicator.
Greg: one of those people you give speakers away to might be good at electronics.
Option one: a T amp and a tube amp.
One box with active crossovers. Only 5 connectors: Mains Power, Left in, Right in, Left out, right out. I'll use Speakon sockets with 4 core cables going to each speaker. Bi-amping with what looks like a single cable.
Nothing on the front but a power switch. Don't need a power lamp with all of those filaments burning away..
Option 2: Two T amps.
One T amp in the bottom of each Chang with active crossover.
On the back: mains power socket, a switch and an RCA socket for the Preamp connection. Maybe some soft lighting shining out the vents for a power indicator.
Greg: one of those people you give speakers away to might be good at electronics.
Now there's a thought.
The sound won't be stellar -you're using Pioneer B20s. A fine driver for the money, and I gather very pleasent to listen to for extended periods. But in detail, extension (especially upper), transparency, transient response etc it's not in the same league as a Fostex 8in or similar.
The 127? I'd use Harvey.
The sound won't be stellar -you're using Pioneer B20s. A fine driver for the money, and I gather very pleasent to listen to for extended periods. But in detail, extension (especially upper), transparency, transient response etc it's not in the same league as a Fostex 8in or similar.
The 127? I'd use Harvey.
OzMikeH said:
at my age, learning comes slowly, but I may have to start with basic as u suggest.
OzMikeH said:
Greg: one of those people you give speakers away to might be good at electronics.
My folks would rather sit and listen and drink beer... I wish they knew about electronics.
gychang
Scottmoose said:Now there's a thought.
The sound won't be stellar -you're using Pioneer B20s.
The 127? I'd use Harvey.
Scott:
1. Tweeter seen below work with B20? (1-4uF capacitor, without a crossover): http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-030page
2. I have FE107, which is shield version 4". Harvey?
gychang
That tweeter looks like a good match for the B20 to me. You've got a driver rather than a cabinet issue at present as the box has little effect on the midrange / HF.
Ah, the 107 (sorry -misread). To be honest they're all too big for it in practical terms. If you must, then it should go into Harvey, but you'll need to go very easy with the volume knob.
Ah, the 107 (sorry -misread). To be honest they're all too big for it in practical terms. If you must, then it should go into Harvey, but you'll need to go very easy with the volume knob.
Think positive mate -the tweeter will improve things markedly according to the guys with experience (Jeff, Dave, Nelson etc), and I gather that solo, they're quite a nice, mellow listen, if lacking detail by Fostex standards. Plus, they have a reputation for being bomb-proof, so you could throw a party. Or two.
Worst comes to the worst, remember that box will take the 206/7 (it was designed for them -the B20 just happens to fit) so at some point in the future when funds permit, you could upgrade to one of the Fostex units, which will sort out that midrange & treble issue at a stroke.
Worst comes to the worst, remember that box will take the 206/7 (it was designed for them -the B20 just happens to fit) so at some point in the future when funds permit, you could upgrade to one of the Fostex units, which will sort out that midrange & treble issue at a stroke.
Just a note for completeness... Suzy Chang for the Fostex FE107e was hatched on the Fonken Floorstander Mk II thread
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1290896#post1290896
dave
(and does this thread have mention of the Curvy Chang?)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1290896#post1290896
dave
(and does this thread have mention of the Curvy Chang?)