I also say feed the forum.
Just to make it clear, I have passed the group buy baton to gengis.
He kindly stepped up just as I realized that I needed to bow out due to an upcoming surgery. Nothing I won't recover from but I wouldn't want people to worry that their money had vanished if I don't recover as quickly as expected.
Just to make it clear, I have passed the group buy baton to gengis.
He kindly stepped up just as I realized that I needed to bow out due to an upcoming surgery. Nothing I won't recover from but I wouldn't want people to worry that their money had vanished if I don't recover as quickly as expected.
The quoted price of $11 does not include scoring. I will check and see what the price will be.
So, last call for suggestion for the money saved!
If there are any more preference to the board color. I will assume it is GREEN. Anything other than green will be $125 per batch order.
If we are going to order on June 10, I would like to have collect at least half the money by that day.
Invoices will be going out tomorrow. Please enable your email through the forum.
So, last call for suggestion for the money saved!
If there are any more preference to the board color. I will assume it is GREEN. Anything other than green will be $125 per batch order.
If we are going to order on June 10, I would like to have collect at least half the money by that day.
Invoices will be going out tomorrow. Please enable your email through the forum.
Gengis,
Be sure to clarify what you want as scoring to advanced. The way I read their definiton of scoring, our panels (amp plus thermals) would be left connected and the scoring would provide separations between these groups. You'd get a panel say three amps wide and two high, scored to break apart. They saee scoring as a way to enable batch machine assembly.
We'd really only need a single score at the bottom edge of the amp and each panel could be individual as quoted. The thermal boards have drilled holes all around to enable their separation. It wouldn't be too hard to score and snap off the waste on our own, although I understand teh reluctance of some to do this.
No color preference, but if we change, the price should go up to enable us to still make a contribution to this site.
Be sure to clarify what you want as scoring to advanced. The way I read their definiton of scoring, our panels (amp plus thermals) would be left connected and the scoring would provide separations between these groups. You'd get a panel say three amps wide and two high, scored to break apart. They saee scoring as a way to enable batch machine assembly.
We'd really only need a single score at the bottom edge of the amp and each panel could be individual as quoted. The thermal boards have drilled holes all around to enable their separation. It wouldn't be too hard to score and snap off the waste on our own, although I understand teh reluctance of some to do this.
No color preference, but if we change, the price should go up to enable us to still make a contribution to this site.
*
Bob, for Advanced, you give them the finished dimensions of the board, and for the scoring, a gerber layer works well, (I used the Mill layer in Eagle, and ran that layer on it's own in gerber cam.). For the prototypes we ordered fro the krellklone, they just marked the scoring with triple lines, as you can see here.
This is how my panel for the 10 transistor version looks
The three boards are outlined in the .cnt file
Do you want me to draw the outline of the panel also?
\Jens
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The three boards are outlined in the .cnt file
Do you want me to draw the outline of the panel also?
\Jens
Jens, when I see the picture of the board I thought of something.
First, skip the extra thick board. Use only thick board if the board will get bent. As I see it you have many screwholes and the power transsistors make the board very sturdy. Thicker board makes it harder to solder. Alright it looks cool with 0.1" board but it has a serious drawback when it comes to HANDSOLDERING.
Have you got the time to change the feedback, (connected far way at the output inductor?
When we are at it, maybe you should add at least a output relay for silent start ut and DC protection? It's better for the builders to minimize the wiring.
Most of you holes seems too narrrow.
TO247, 1.6 mm
TO220, 1 mm
Resistors, small caps 0.9 mm
IC's 0.8 mm
BCxxx 0.8 mm
Connectors 1.3-1.4 mm
Fuse holder, 1.4 mm at least
What about the speaker ground at the edge of the board? Is that optimal? I warn you to draw currents in the pcb where you shouldn't.
Strive to have 0.2-0.3 mm more the use wire as hole diameter. The reason for this is easier service and also better solder results.
I see that most of the designators are readable when the part is there but you have forgot in a few places. I'll suggest that you move them also and if you must draw a line to really point out the part if you can't make it clear otherwise.
There may be more things on the otherwise good looking pcb but I haven't dived into the micro details. As you know I think a bit productionwise. If it's good for production it's usually good for hand soldering.
First, skip the extra thick board. Use only thick board if the board will get bent. As I see it you have many screwholes and the power transsistors make the board very sturdy. Thicker board makes it harder to solder. Alright it looks cool with 0.1" board but it has a serious drawback when it comes to HANDSOLDERING.
Have you got the time to change the feedback, (connected far way at the output inductor?
When we are at it, maybe you should add at least a output relay for silent start ut and DC protection? It's better for the builders to minimize the wiring.
Most of you holes seems too narrrow.
TO247, 1.6 mm
TO220, 1 mm
Resistors, small caps 0.9 mm
IC's 0.8 mm
BCxxx 0.8 mm
Connectors 1.3-1.4 mm
Fuse holder, 1.4 mm at least
What about the speaker ground at the edge of the board? Is that optimal? I warn you to draw currents in the pcb where you shouldn't.
Strive to have 0.2-0.3 mm more the use wire as hole diameter. The reason for this is easier service and also better solder results.
I see that most of the designators are readable when the part is there but you have forgot in a few places. I'll suggest that you move them also and if you must draw a line to really point out the part if you can't make it clear otherwise.
There may be more things on the otherwise good looking pcb but I haven't dived into the micro details. As you know I think a bit productionwise. If it's good for production it's usually good for hand soldering.
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