Thank you. That's what I wanted to know. I don't know why I mentioned the bridge rectifier. I just happen to have them on hand.
Shindengen make top quality rectifiers. I used them in several of my CD player modifications with great results.
There are several low noise who may be used in this project as well. https://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_e/semi/bridgediode.html
Regards,
Tibi
Thanks for feedback.
I have now 4 different CD mechanics. The inner hole variation is from ~5.9 to 6.1. Old ones have 6.1 while latest 5.9
Regards,
Tibi
During the last month I have been experimenting with the K73 variety of NOS capacitors with excellent results.
I got some 10nF K73-15 which so far sound very nice at C8. I will wood/wax modify one and keep it for a week or so to see how this one behaves in comparison to the FT-1 I am using now.
I love how small these caps are
I got some 10nF K73-15 which so far sound very nice at C8. I will wood/wax modify one and keep it for a week or so to see how this one behaves in comparison to the FT-1 I am using now.
I love how small these caps are
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I had to put back the teflon because there was some malfunction with the K73... These are VERY delicate once you remove the metal casing. They snap really easy on the leads...
First impressions were that they do not reach the detail analysis that the teflons offer.
I guess these make sense in places with big values that teflons do not exist, like 4,7 or 10uF
Further to my tests, I just replaced the MSR860s with CREE CSD01060A
First impression is that the sound is way more dynamic and direct without lacking any detail. Especially drums sound very nice and realistic.
I will let them burn in for a few days and report back.
First impressions were that they do not reach the detail analysis that the teflons offer.
I guess these make sense in places with big values that teflons do not exist, like 4,7 or 10uF
Further to my tests, I just replaced the MSR860s with CREE CSD01060A
First impression is that the sound is way more dynamic and direct without lacking any detail. Especially drums sound very nice and realistic.
I will let them burn in for a few days and report back.
Have ordered few old Sanyo CD SFP101N-16P from ebay.
Interesting is that I got two different versions. One can be used with no modification in Shiga MKII, while the second need a small rewiring in order to get working. The easiest way to adapt the cable from J2 to CD mechanic.
The left mechanic in attached picture need T+(spin+) reversed with T-(spin-) and SL- & SL+ need to be switched with P-SW & Gnd.
In fact if you follow pcb traces is quite clear what you need to do.
So, in case you purchased a CD mechanic from ebay and this is not spinning at all, the solution si quite simple.
This will work for JVC EZ31 as well.
Regards,
Tibi
Interesting is that I got two different versions. One can be used with no modification in Shiga MKII, while the second need a small rewiring in order to get working. The easiest way to adapt the cable from J2 to CD mechanic.
The left mechanic in attached picture need T+(spin+) reversed with T-(spin-) and SL- & SL+ need to be switched with P-SW & Gnd.
In fact if you follow pcb traces is quite clear what you need to do.
So, in case you purchased a CD mechanic from ebay and this is not spinning at all, the solution si quite simple.
This will work for JVC EZ31 as well.
Regards,
Tibi
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These mechanics looks and are more robust. Even so, I was able to alter distance between turntable and optics ... A drop of strong glue or resin under turntable must prevent this.
Sound very good and with modifications I get the best sound I ever heard from a digital source. I fact, I must confess that I have few friends here who are still in shock after a Shiga MKII listening session and thanks to this mechanic they will stay so for quite some time now.
My advice is if you see such mechanic on ebay, look around, be sure nobody see you and BUY.
Regards,
Tibi
Hi Tibi,
I received my MKII. My package was squashed flat, but the boards and mechanism seem undamaged. I removed the solder blob and laser cover and applied power. The sled would not stop. It tried to continue advancing toward the turntable with the gears clicking away. All of my mechanisms do the same. Any ideas? Thanks.
I received my MKII. My package was squashed flat, but the boards and mechanism seem undamaged. I removed the solder blob and laser cover and applied power. The sled would not stop. It tried to continue advancing toward the turntable with the gears clicking away. All of my mechanisms do the same. Any ideas? Thanks.