I replaced my laser decoupling silver mica 1nF with a 100nF 1837
First impression is quite disappointing. The CD is quite slower both in toc reading and playback start/stop.
And the sound seems a bit less clear. Kind of like using a 100nF instead of a 10nF in C8
I will let it break in for a few days before I make a permanent decision though...
My thoughts further to this position is that perhaps a NP0 ceramic could be better there... Unfortunately I only have a 470pF...
Anyway... I will probably return to the mica...
First impression is quite disappointing. The CD is quite slower both in toc reading and playback start/stop.
And the sound seems a bit less clear. Kind of like using a 100nF instead of a 10nF in C8
I will let it break in for a few days before I make a permanent decision though...
My thoughts further to this position is that perhaps a NP0 ceramic could be better there... Unfortunately I only have a 470pF...
Anyway... I will probably return to the mica...
The trimmer mod with 150pf fkp and modified resistor works just fine.
Found that I needed to cut of some glue as the transport suddenly couldn't read the last tracks of a lengthy concert...
One reason to test the MCap SGO is that if they don't manage to enhance the MK2 I test them in my salas fsp and release the obbligatos in that one - so I bought 2 of these... Now - I'll leave it as is for a few months as other projects are on the waiting list.
Regards
Found that I needed to cut of some glue as the transport suddenly couldn't read the last tracks of a lengthy concert...
One reason to test the MCap SGO is that if they don't manage to enhance the MK2 I test them in my salas fsp and release the obbligatos in that one - so I bought 2 of these... Now - I'll leave it as is for a few months as other projects are on the waiting list.
Regards
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Hi Tibi
Well written - good to have these mods documented in detail.
As I don't have the Shiga but the plain jane JVC EZ-31 board, may I ask you (or Erik!) if the caps upgrade recommended on pg 5 - path to nivana with high grade parts for C10 (for decoupling laser CCS) & C19 (laser CCS) is relevant for my EZ31 board or are they not applicable.
I've had a look at the main Shigaclone thread and can't find any mention of upgrading laser CCS/decoupling components.
Thanks
Well written - good to have these mods documented in detail.
As I don't have the Shiga but the plain jane JVC EZ-31 board, may I ask you (or Erik!) if the caps upgrade recommended on pg 5 - path to nivana with high grade parts for C10 (for decoupling laser CCS) & C19 (laser CCS) is relevant for my EZ31 board or are they not applicable.
I've had a look at the main Shigaclone thread and can't find any mention of upgrading laser CCS/decoupling components.
Thanks
Modification documents have been updated. When these will reach a final version, I'll put them in cloud for good.
Regards,
Tibi
Ups !!! Second file exceed forum size limit ...
Linked here http://vicol-audio.ro/docs/VicolAudio_Black Shiga MKII mods_Rev1.pdf
Thanks for the info! Heat was my really big concern as it looks REALLY tight to work on, I am downloading picture so I can zoom etc. and see if I can figure out which cap goes where. It looks like both are silver mica in picture ? Also did you remove some of the black frame to make room for the MKP cap on the laser side? Do you think this mech is stronger than the newer, I feels more solid that is why I want to try to mod because I have a newer one also. Thanks for mod info all who have contributed!
Steve
Steve
Hi Marcus
I do not know all the c- numbers but the laser modification is pretty much a must for people with a clone no matter what version you have...so implement it.
The fun part is that the immense amount of clone builders of the first couple of hundred pages think they have now a finished product and don't react any more...now the new people can have a far ...far...far....better product by taking benefit from Tibis research so tweaking the laser...enfin such is DIY only the true hard core get there in the end ...LOL
I think this modification blows all the other simple low cost tweaks from those hundreds and hundreds of pages straight out of the water...(I know since I have been there from the very start and tried pretty much every trick out of the book from bloody expensive to down dirty cheap) and this golden nugget is not expensive for a change.
Tomorrow is D-day for me and I will implement a well tested and modified laserunit into my PiTbull Reference Transport....
I do not know all the c- numbers but the laser modification is pretty much a must for people with a clone no matter what version you have...so implement it.
The fun part is that the immense amount of clone builders of the first couple of hundred pages think they have now a finished product and don't react any more...now the new people can have a far ...far...far....better product by taking benefit from Tibis research so tweaking the laser...enfin such is DIY only the true hard core get there in the end ...LOL
I think this modification blows all the other simple low cost tweaks from those hundreds and hundreds of pages straight out of the water...(I know since I have been there from the very start and tried pretty much every trick out of the book from bloody expensive to down dirty cheap) and this golden nugget is not expensive for a change.
Tomorrow is D-day for me and I will implement a well tested and modified laserunit into my PiTbull Reference Transport....
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LA6541
Hi Tibi,
I was looking for some back up parts for board[just in case I damage],
Is the LA6541 7UND N chip compatible? It is the right pin [HS] it is a little narrower and I can't find a datasheet to verify. Also it is a Sanyo part. What LA9242M and LC7801re chips are compatible if you can post? Thanks so much.
Steve
[ps] are the China sites that post availability of these parts OK to use?
Hi Tibi,
I was looking for some back up parts for board[just in case I damage],
Is the LA6541 7UND N chip compatible? It is the right pin [HS] it is a little narrower and I can't find a datasheet to verify. Also it is a Sanyo part. What LA9242M and LC7801re chips are compatible if you can post? Thanks so much.
Steve
[ps] are the China sites that post availability of these parts OK to use?
Hi, Tibi.
The MK2 is simply amazing! Thank you
About the printed schematic that I was supposed to have got as I bought a full kit. Could You send me one as I seem to be missing it. A scanned copy would do just fine.
Regards
Different switch's ?
If I want to use different switch's then that is on the board, would I just tap off of the two pads on the brd that are below each switch? Are all the switch's
N.O. momentary switchs? And the Door switch, it has 3 pads on a connector. How would I wire that switch? Is that a N.O., N.C. Switch?
Can you give me a link to the manual? I found it once on your web sight, but I can't seem to find it anymore. And a link to the schematic would help also, as this would answer my question about the door switch, and any others that might come up during assembly.
And I want to thank Tibi for all the time, money, and research that he has put into this project. So, Thank you kind sir.
If I want to use different switch's then that is on the board, would I just tap off of the two pads on the brd that are below each switch? Are all the switch's
N.O. momentary switchs? And the Door switch, it has 3 pads on a connector. How would I wire that switch? Is that a N.O., N.C. Switch?
Can you give me a link to the manual? I found it once on your web sight, but I can't seem to find it anymore. And a link to the schematic would help also, as this would answer my question about the door switch, and any others that might come up during assembly.
And I want to thank Tibi for all the time, money, and research that he has put into this project. So, Thank you kind sir.
As Erik said, all CD mechanic modifications will work with standard JVC EZ-31 board as well.
Laser CCS capacitor is a critical part. If this cap fail or degrade, the unit will no longer be able to read any CD at all.
A high quality cap is required here: kemet tantalum, Rubycon Black-Gate or Sanyo OSCON.
Regards,
Tibi
All datasheet parts are available on my site vicol audio : Shigaclone mkII CD transport
I do not understand what you mean with "What LA9242M and LC7801re chips are compatible if you can post?"
These chips do not have an equivalent.
I do not think you'll get a LC78601 in China these days, but if you get a source I'm highly interested. I mean a source where you have ordered this part and actually get one.
Regards,
Tibi
Hi, Tibi.
The MK2 is simply amazing! Thank you
About the printed schematic that I was supposed to have got as I bought a full kit. Could You send me one as I seem to be missing it. A scanned copy would do just fine.
Regards
OK.
Regards,
Tibi
If I want to use different switch's then that is on the board, would I just tap off of the two pads on the brd that are below each switch? Are all the switch's
N.O. momentary switchs? And the Door switch, it has 3 pads on a connector. How would I wire that switch? Is that a N.O., N.C. Switch?
Can you give me a link to the manual? I found it once on your web sight, but I can't seem to find it anymore. And a link to the schematic would help also, as this would answer my question about the door switch, and any others that might come up during assembly.
And I want to thank Tibi for all the time, money, and research that he has put into this project. So, Thank you kind sir.
Schematic on MKII is same as on MKI.
See http://vicol-audio.ro/img/shiga/shigaclone_diyaudio_rev9_28092012.pdf
page 3.
All switches are normal open.
Thank you as well. Without this community and your interest this project never existed.
Regards,
Tibi
Thanks for the reply. I wanted to see what the equivalent caps for C10 & C19 on the MKII were for my EZ-31 board so I could replace these with upgraded parts as well.
Not sure if I got this correct but looking at the cd servo section on the EZ-31 schematic's it looks like, (from the attached image) that:
C10 (270uF) = C953 (220uF)
C19 (47uF) = C932 (47uF)
Am I even close?
Not sure if I got this correct but looking at the cd servo section on the EZ-31 schematic's it looks like, (from the attached image) that:
C10 (270uF) = C953 (220uF)
C19 (47uF) = C932 (47uF)
Am I even close?
