I read through the whole thread now finally. So - I didn't catch exactly how do you use your current jig to do impedance measurements? Is the amp one or two channels? Is there a post somewhere with all these details? I assume the mic preamp is one channel?
EDIT: I looked at the picture again, now it's more clear - I guess you just connect the speaker to the seperate binding posts and push the pushbutton switch to switch on impedance measurement mode. You'll make an "instructions" thread I think you mentioned? It will tell us what will happen if we hookup to the wrong posts / have the switches in the wrong positions? Is there potential to damage the jig in such cases?
Doh, too late to edit my earlier post. I see all the information such as shipping cost is in an earlier post, and, you replied to my question about mic calibration. I also agree - unless you are doing a particularly high tweeter crossover. But - one thing to consider: I read in another post that the accuracy of the measurement up much higher can affect the phase result of the lower frequency, so, it may be of slight practical benefit to be accurate to at least 20Khz or beyond.
Being within a db or two up to 10Khz or so should facilitate the ability to do typical mid/woofer/tweeter crossovers fine though, I suppose.
EDIT: I looked at the picture again, now it's more clear - I guess you just connect the speaker to the seperate binding posts and push the pushbutton switch to switch on impedance measurement mode. You'll make an "instructions" thread I think you mentioned? It will tell us what will happen if we hookup to the wrong posts / have the switches in the wrong positions? Is there potential to damage the jig in such cases?
Doh, too late to edit my earlier post. I see all the information such as shipping cost is in an earlier post, and, you replied to my question about mic calibration. I also agree - unless you are doing a particularly high tweeter crossover. But - one thing to consider: I read in another post that the accuracy of the measurement up much higher can affect the phase result of the lower frequency, so, it may be of slight practical benefit to be accurate to at least 20Khz or beyond.
Being within a db or two up to 10Khz or so should facilitate the ability to do typical mid/woofer/tweeter crossovers fine though, I suppose.
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Hi Critofur,
Once a few of these are assembled I'll start a thread covering it's operation. I have already started an assembly thread (see my last post).
The jig has one amplifier for testing frequency response of a single driver or speaker. Back in post #63 I said that the jig no longer has a mic preamp and gave the reasons for this.
To be honest it would be very difficult to damage the jig through accidental use. Obviously you will want to avoid shorting the output from the amp (like any amp for that matter). It has been made intentionally simple - it lacks the switches found on many jigs (the Wallin jig for one) and plugs directly into the soundcard - the labeling is clear.
There is protection for the soundcard input built in also, limits on how much voltage can be applied, so you don't burn out your card.
Once a few of these are assembled I'll start a thread covering it's operation. I have already started an assembly thread (see my last post).
The jig has one amplifier for testing frequency response of a single driver or speaker. Back in post #63 I said that the jig no longer has a mic preamp and gave the reasons for this.
To be honest it would be very difficult to damage the jig through accidental use. Obviously you will want to avoid shorting the output from the amp (like any amp for that matter). It has been made intentionally simple - it lacks the switches found on many jigs (the Wallin jig for one) and plugs directly into the soundcard - the labeling is clear.
There is protection for the soundcard input built in also, limits on how much voltage can be applied, so you don't burn out your card.
For those that feel this is not much gear for a bit price tag, here is a list of the components used:
That is enough for 20 of these jigs. Notice the cost plus I need to pay sales tax on it.
Consider the time it takes to sort and bag the parts, build the enclosure, make the front panel, make the back panel and all of the other things that are not obvious to someone who hasn't done this sort of thing.
Still seem expensive?
...testing amplifiers? ...additional attenuation? ...did I also get the impression that it's also a measurment tool for, among other things like impedance and frequency response etc [not trivial in their own right]...things like measuring inductance and resistance of self-wound inductors? Can it work as a capacitance measurement tool for individual capacitors?
...appropriate software?
I'll have a learning curve somewhat...but not as daunting of a task with other equipment available...or NOT available.
The Price Is Right...
...appropriate software?
I'll have a learning curve somewhat...but not as daunting of a task with other equipment available...or NOT available.
The Price Is Right...
Attachments
sorry - not when you consider the effort it takes on your part making small batches.
It only seems expensive compared to mass "made in China" consumer goods...
I shouldn't complain, I haven't made one for myself yet. No, I don't want a refund.
Thank you.
To do those things... You need a couple plugs, a few pieces of wire and a ~10 Ohm resistor along with some free programs.
Having the plugs, resistor, wires, neatly packaged in a box instead of tangled on your floor (and which one went where?) along with the amplifier is a nice solution. I have a small little 4 channel T-Amp on a circuit board which could run off the same power supply - I should put that in a little box that goes under this box and setup some little banana plug switch-board so I can flip a few switches when I want to switch from measuring to the crossover simulator
...ARTA will be good for the impedance and FR measurements both... Does it measure capacitance? I forget - but I think there are other free programs that will do that.
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I'm really looking forward to this. I built some fairly basic 2-way speakers and assembled a passive crossover ballpark hit and miss. They sound great, but it would be most interesting to actually see a combined response, impedance and phasing of the mix I put together...
That'll be an eye opener...
That'll be an eye opener...
Thanks
It is the NOT available part that I'm trying to address.
Speaker Workshop will measure passive components, including capacitors up to a certain value. I have accurately measured inductors, caps and resistors (as low as .1 ohm) using this jig and Speaker Workshop.
First, all kits were shipped today. Let me know when you get them.
Got mine yesterday. Thanks!
Steve.
Excellent Steve
Anyone else?
All those in round 2 were shipped out today.
I should have some more boards on around the 3rd of March. With this order I have some of the microphone preamp boards coming also. Once I have these in hand, I'll try one out to ensure they are correct (darn well better be) and I'll get the pricing together for the mic.
Anyone else?
All those in round 2 were shipped out today.
I should have some more boards on around the 3rd of March. With this order I have some of the microphone preamp boards coming also. Once I have these in hand, I'll try one out to ensure they are correct (darn well better be
) and I'll get the pricing together for the mic.
Received mine today. Granted, I haven't read carefully, but I didn't expect the enclosure to be glued up. Nice! This looks to be a very quick project. I suspect it'll take me quite awhile longer to get speaker workshop running than it will to get the jig working.
thanks!
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
thanks!
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
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Anyone started putting it together yet? Doesn't take long - a hour or so once you have your tools handy.
For round 3 I will keep the price the same, I did some searching and found the parts on Mouser.
So I have parts now but no boards and it will be sometime next week before I have them.
Also, sadly it is the end of an era - I have changed the faceplate so that I can get it made by the PCB house. I ordered a few and I'll have those next week also. It still looks good but I could not incorporate the Jolly J on it ( I tried, believe me I tried ).
The fact is the faceplate was the most time consuming part of the kit and having it made saves me some time and really doesn't cost much more than the raw materials for the original one.
For round 3 I will keep the price the same, I did some searching and found the parts on Mouser.
So I have parts now but no boards and it will be sometime next week before I have them.
Also, sadly it is the end of an era - I have changed the faceplate so that I can get it made by the PCB house. I ordered a few and I'll have those next week also. It still looks good but I could not incorporate the Jolly J on it ( I tried, believe me I tried
). The fact is the faceplate was the most time consuming part of the kit and having it made saves me some time and really doesn't cost much more than the raw materials for the original one.
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