Now I need to put together a Newark order, the above resistors, some header pieces and anything else...
Once all this arrives, I will shop for caps. Before that expense, I want to see this other stuff here.
Then, the box. I am thinking of this one if tall enough, other wise the 4u version. I will add the 10mm silver front plate, IEC cutout, and fully vented option for top and bottom panels.
http://diyaudiostore.com/collections/chassis/products/pesante-3u
Then connectors, some of which are already in my possession. Time to make the donuts.
Russellc
Nice, I like the chassis, added to bookmarks - are you going balanced in/out? That's one thing I'm trying to work out, I think I need both balanced and single-ended, or at least I'd like the option. Something like 4 inputs, 1 balanced 3 single-ended; and 2 outputs, 1 balanced, 1 single-ended. Been thinking about it as I was looking at input selector switches and volume control.
Tod
Yes, I will want both Bal & SE ins and outs as well. Haven't though about volume pot or selector yet. If possible (available) I have had really good luck with the Chinese ladder jobs on eBay....Sort of a poor man's Gold Point. Performance of a Stereo unit on my BA3 preamp was very solid.
Russellc
Russellc
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Thanks, I am re-reading all the parts in threads and cookbooks about that, I will certainly bump into questions when that stage arises!
I will feel much better when power supply is up and running. That seems to be where most trouble seems to be in the threads. I see this power supply as integral to the whole performance, and do not want an alternative. So, read many times, and hopefully build only once...
Russellc
Yeah, I have the same delivery date for the heatsinks from TME - fingers crossed there are no glitches, but that is pretty impressive!
I've got an order about half finished for the Shunty parts at Newark right now, hope to have that wrapped up this weekend.
Tod
Tod
Nothing can be done until they arrive, that's for sure! What are you measuring and drilling? You mean for the holes the transistors bolt onto? Cant be as bad as my F5 was, I built that complete chassis from 1/8 inch aluminum, (6061) all drilled and tapped, heatsinks all had to be measured and drilled. I dont see anything that involved here. I am missing something?
Russellc
Russellc
You had repeatedly expressed your distaste for drilling and tapping, that's why I wanted to prepare you for what's to come. But it really is no big deal. I positioned each heat sink on the bare PCB, used a small clamp to hold it in place and marked the bottom holes. After drilling and tapping them, I attached the heat sinks to the PCBs with the proper screws, marked vertical lines perpendicular to the center hole of each MOSFET, and finally marked a horizontal line where the screws to attach the MOSFETS should go.
I will likely have questions, I dont think drilling them will be any where near the pain that F-5 was! Not my favorite activity. Those curly ques of aluminum kept turning up for weeks. I will definitely be using a chassis from the store on this!
I definitely dont want to mess up one of these sinks, thinking about it, it seems like there is a small amount, (very small) of up and down adjustment by how far the transistors legs go down through the boards holes. Side to side will not have any play to speak of.
I try to not get carried away, and look at the parts, think about it, rolling over various ideas, ask those like yourself who have done it, and compare their ideas. Oh, thanks for yours! I am sure I will be asking a ton of questions, I so want this one to work perfectly.
I dont see yet how they attach to the boards, so that will likely be my first question when the arrive. in previous builds, there are usually little tabs on the style of the smaller sinks that go into holes on the board. I see holes in the boards where the smaller ones go, but not for the larger ones...it may become obvious once I have them in hand, what attaches these larger ones to the boards?
Russellc
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Buddha is everywhere ....... especially in Al tapping routine
I will say, the F5 being my first attempt at drilling and tapping was interesting, I was really surprised that I was successful!
Once in a while, arthritis becomes an issue with the hands making it "a pain" to do that task.
Russellc
well , it really pays of still being in first youth age (almost 50)
(still livin' in hope that Papa will adopt me , eventually)
61 here. As a young ding dong, I was very interested in practicing Chinese Kempo so impressive I could punch most anything, full force
hard as it might be with "no harm" to my hands...fast forward 40 yrs...Russellc
Ok, now I see. I see in some builds there appears to be washers or some kind of material between the sink and board also, maybe I missed this in threads.
Russellc
The spacer between heat sink and PCB is in the cook book. If you missed that detail you really should go through the whole document again.
For you and anyone else interested, my solution was to buy gasket material from the auto parts store nearby. It comes in a small roll for about $5 and you can easily cut it to size with a utility knife. I used gasket adhesive to attach it to the bottom of the heat sink.
For you and anyone else interested, my solution was to buy gasket material from the auto parts store nearby. It comes in a small roll for about $5 and you can easily cut it to size with a utility knife. I used gasket adhesive to attach it to the bottom of the heat sink.
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