As I use the relays in shunt mode to short circuit both amps in case of fault, so that the relay is normally not in the signal path, the quality of the relay does not matter. Any 70A automotive relay 24V (or even 12 V if you use them in series) will do. The disadvantage is that you are likely to have to replace both relays and all the output Mosfets if you do not have the over-current protection of the F5 wired. This is the solution for the best sound, with the risk of high replacement costs in the unlikely event of a failure (of either a 2V DC at the amp, or failure of the DC detection circuit).
The less risky approach is to use the relay in series (in the output signal path) and install the over-current protection on the amp PCB. Then you want to use a decent relay, min 16A SPNO, but probably 30A to have some margin.
Examples are Finder 51 series or Omron G8 series. I have not tried them, so I cannot tell you if they make any sonic differences when in the signal path.
Patrick
The less risky approach is to use the relay in series (in the output signal path) and install the over-current protection on the amp PCB. Then you want to use a decent relay, min 16A SPNO, but probably 30A to have some margin.
Examples are Finder 51 series or Omron G8 series. I have not tried them, so I cannot tell you if they make any sonic differences when in the signal path.
Patrick
Here’s the protection board schematics
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/183362-f5x-euvl-approach-66.html#post2882669
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/183362-f5x-euvl-approach-66.html#post2882669
Nice appartment you have. 
Could you send me a copy of the piano photo in fully resolution.
We want to place it in our gallery some time later.
There must be others who have now get the case and the heatsinks ?
No one putting them together yet ?
Can't wait to see you build photos.
I have asked fitzfish to put up his build thread asap.
I have seen the first draft and made comments.
Patrick
Could you send me a copy of the piano photo in fully resolution.
We want to place it in our gallery some time later.
There must be others who have now get the case and the heatsinks ?
No one putting them together yet ?
Can't wait to see you build photos.
I have asked fitzfish to put up his build thread asap.
I have seen the first draft and made comments.
Patrick
The US case kits and the heat sinks are pending shipment for:
1. The beta boards which will arrive Greg, and I will deliver this kits/HS
and pick up the beta boards.
2. Trying to locate boxes so that I can pack the kit and the heat sinks
together in one shipment.
So, no one is US except me has the kit. But then I've started putting together
a pair of full range speakers, it is not a good idea to start another task to irritate
the lady more
1. The beta boards which will arrive Greg, and I will deliver this kits/HS
and pick up the beta boards.
2. Trying to locate boxes so that I can pack the kit and the heat sinks
together in one shipment.
So, no one is US except me has the kit. But then I've started putting together
a pair of full range speakers, it is not a good idea to start another task to irritate
the lady more
Fred,
if you re-arrange the case kit items the heatsinks will also fit into the same box (top plate on bottom, heatsinks outside, all other items between heatsinks). If you like I can post a picture tomorrow.
Uwe
pmchoong,
There should have 35-36mm clearance for the aux. t'former between the reg. heatsink and the inside of the back bracket.
What is the "height" of your t'former?
The white "washer" is used to isolate the rectifiers from the heatsink if required.
The M4 nuts are for the mounting of the loudspeaker protection relays etc.
Mark
There should have 35-36mm clearance for the aux. t'former between the reg. heatsink and the inside of the back bracket.
What is the "height" of your t'former?
The white "washer" is used to isolate the rectifiers from the heatsink if required.
The M4 nuts are for the mounting of the loudspeaker protection relays etc.
Mark
No, they don't fit. Even with the minimal bubble wrap, the box is about 1/4 inches too narrow (the short side). I will post a picture later.
Hi Uwe,
If you can post a picture, that will be great. I kind of didn't want to disrupt the the arrangement and end up making a mess. I expect the HS will simply a drop in from the top so that I don't get any chance to take parts out and misplace by accidence
Thanks,
I just repacked my own box, and yes, everything will fit the box. However, I don't feel easy about the repack. Basically, there is not much foam protection.
I am a little paranoid of 3 areas:
1. The bottom plat will only be protected by 2 layers of cardboard.
2. The HS base (fins face inside) has one layer of cardboard protection.
3. The top side of HS is protected by one layer of cardboard.
If somehow the shipper has a bad day, there is a chance the bottom plate or the top of the fins can be damaged.
If I wrap another layer of cardboard on the top and the bottom with 2 white foam, that will be quite safe, but I will send a few pictures to the US case owners and let them decide.
I am a little paranoid of 3 areas:
1. The bottom plat will only be protected by 2 layers of cardboard.
2. The HS base (fins face inside) has one layer of cardboard protection.
3. The top side of HS is protected by one layer of cardboard.
If somehow the shipper has a bad day, there is a chance the bottom plate or the top of the fins can be damaged.
If I wrap another layer of cardboard on the top and the bottom with 2 white foam, that will be quite safe, but I will send a few pictures to the US case owners and let them decide.
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