Volume level
Hi Guy's, just a quick question on the PS1's internal volume control.
If I remember correctly (it's a while ago now!) you can control the volume of games from their menu screens. If so, then is it possible to control a CD's volume from any of the screens?
Also, would that be linked in some way to the opamps after the DAC or done before?......I've bypassed the output section so it's quite relevant!
Cheers chaps
Lee
Hi Guy's, just a quick question on the PS1's internal volume control.
If I remember correctly (it's a while ago now!) you can control the volume of games from their menu screens. If so, then is it possible to control a CD's volume from any of the screens?
Also, would that be linked in some way to the opamps after the DAC or done before?......I've bypassed the output section so it's quite relevant!
Cheers chaps
Lee
John, I recently sold my speakers. The guy buying them knew how they sound, but you still want to know that they aren't defect. He was surprised I used a PSX. So I switched to my DVD player. He preferred the unmodified PSX. I doubt he will ever use one. It doesn't fit in with the audiophile "mindset."
Lee, I know you can select filters like echo and such. But I know nothing about volume.
By the way, someone here mentioned the model 550X. I don't remember who, but he has a black-colored PSX. I didn't know, but I have one of those laying around as well. Opened it up and it looks ideal for modification. Looks much neater than the 100X, which probably was rushed, as all commercial products. As a gaming device, the 100X is easily the worst model, having poor anti-aliasing. The 550X is identical to the 100X save for the lack of RCA jacks, if I remember. It should be ideal should you want to re-case the PSX.
Maybe old, but this should give an indication of how relatively few 100X units are in existence.
Lee, I know you can select filters like echo and such. But I know nothing about volume.
By the way, someone here mentioned the model 550X. I don't remember who, but he has a black-colored PSX. I didn't know, but I have one of those laying around as well. Opened it up and it looks ideal for modification. Looks much neater than the 100X, which probably was rushed, as all commercial products. As a gaming device, the 100X is easily the worst model, having poor anti-aliasing. The 550X is identical to the 100X save for the lack of RCA jacks, if I remember. It should be ideal should you want to re-case the PSX.
Maybe old, but this should give an indication of how relatively few 100X units are in existence.
Best for modding - the 1002 or 5502?
In my part of the world the SCPH 5502 is easier to find than the 1002. From reading these posts it seems most people use the 1002 (or 100X). Has anyone had the chance to modify the 5502 and 1002 and compare them?
Does the 1002 sound better than the 5502?
thanks
phn said:
In my part of the world the SCPH 5502 is easier to find than the 1002. From reading these posts it seems most people use the 1002 (or 100X). Has anyone had the chance to modify the 5502 and 1002 and compare them?
Does the 1002 sound better than the 5502?
thanks
I was too hasty. I did a search and only came up with 100X and 550X. Apparently there's a 500X and 555X as well.
More info here.
Here's a translation (google) of the relevant part:
SCPH - 5002: Approximately to the 1002, somewhat more slowly
SCPH - 5502: something center-stresses however very fast and spritzig, not completely in such a way spatial like 1002
SCPH - 5552: Allegedly also very properly playing Playstation (here is present me however only 1 comment)
More info here.
Here's a translation (google) of the relevant part:
SCPH - 5002: Approximately to the 1002, somewhat more slowly
SCPH - 5502: something center-stresses however very fast and spritzig, not completely in such a way spatial like 1002
SCPH - 5552: Allegedly also very properly playing Playstation (here is present me however only 1 comment)
Hi
Today in West OZ, Playstations were on sale for AUD$20
So I went and tried to get another SCPH1002 but
ended up with a SCPH5502 or so it said on
the bottom! It was shrink wrapped and with a
3 month warranty. The others I have
purchased were packed the same way but were SCPH1002s
Well inside it looks like a later model and also
claimed to need just 9 watts rather than 12 watts
to power it! Question is is it still a true 5502
despite the differing features(Ie moving the laser
transport over to the right away from the power
supply heat or have I been deceived? The buttons
had symbols rather than text on them so could it
be a hybrid repair job?? Does it still have the
separate oscillator of 67.7376MHz like the 1002s??
Picture is of this suspect called 5502 on the left and
a genuine 1002 on the right. The 1002 have five screws
and this 5502 had six screws to take of the top cover.
I always throught the 5502 was just a 1002 without the
RCA outs! Was I wrong?
Regards
AnthonyPT
Today in West OZ, Playstations were on sale for AUD$20
So I went and tried to get another SCPH1002 but
ended up with a SCPH5502 or so it said on
the bottom! It was shrink wrapped and with a
3 month warranty. The others I have
purchased were packed the same way but were SCPH1002s
Well inside it looks like a later model and also
claimed to need just 9 watts rather than 12 watts
to power it! Question is is it still a true 5502
despite the differing features(Ie moving the laser
transport over to the right away from the power
supply heat or have I been deceived? The buttons
had symbols rather than text on them so could it
be a hybrid repair job?? Does it still have the
separate oscillator of 67.7376MHz like the 1002s??
Picture is of this suspect called 5502 on the left and
a genuine 1002 on the right. The 1002 have five screws
and this 5502 had six screws to take of the top cover.
I always throught the 5502 was just a 1002 without the
RCA outs! Was I wrong?
Regards
AnthonyPT
Attachments
Not so sure...
I bought a Japanese SCPH-7000 at my local game store, and they use letters instead of symbols. Also, the PCB and shield are lower (There's much more shielding too) and the transport has higher pins under the rubber mounts.)
It uses a separate DAC also. The only problem being that select button is a visualization mode instead of stop.
Looks like 5502 except the transformer is grey instead of yellow. (And the !#?@$ wire plug isn't exactly the same, since they use 100v, but they have the same wall plugs and the problem is that I just didn't buy the wire, so I use a DIY wire using alligator plugs)
Hi
After these helpful revelations about the SCH5502
still having the 67.7376MHz like the 1002s (True?)
I became interested in looking inside my
trusty old CD32 CBM box that predates the
release of the Playstation my at least a year
or two. I took it down to the Motherboard
and looked at the components and the build quality.
It was hard to get off the shielding and not as easy
to work on compared to the Sony hardware. The CD32
CD display metaphor is so much more creative than
the Sony one. Also the Power supply is not SMPS
but more traditional. You have 12v @ 500ma plus
5v @ 2.2 amps. Total around 17watts. Now I wonder
if the PS1 at 9 watts (5502)and SCPH1002 at 12watts
could work with the CD32 power block using
LM317 plus LM350 regulators or would we need more power
for the 7.6volt supply? Its a neat 4 Din pin
based block far away from the player. The Regulators
and extra caps could live in the PS1 box and cool
running would prevail?
-))
Since CD32s are not flavour of the decade maybe
two CD32 power packs giving you 4.4amps at 5v and
1amp at 12v.
I enclose a picture of a CD32 and power block
for reference.
Regards
AnthonyPT
PS. The Playstation WIKI has a list (it looks like) all Playstaion
models regardless of their distribution areas.
After these helpful revelations about the SCH5502
still having the 67.7376MHz like the 1002s (True?)
I became interested in looking inside my
trusty old CD32 CBM box that predates the
release of the Playstation my at least a year
or two. I took it down to the Motherboard
and looked at the components and the build quality.
It was hard to get off the shielding and not as easy
to work on compared to the Sony hardware. The CD32
CD display metaphor is so much more creative than
the Sony one. Also the Power supply is not SMPS
but more traditional. You have 12v @ 500ma plus
5v @ 2.2 amps. Total around 17watts. Now I wonder
if the PS1 at 9 watts (5502)and SCPH1002 at 12watts
could work with the CD32 power block using
LM317 plus LM350 regulators or would we need more power
for the 7.6volt supply? Its a neat 4 Din pin
based block far away from the player. The Regulators
and extra caps could live in the PS1 box and cool
running would prevail?
-)) Since CD32s are not flavour of the decade maybe
two CD32 power packs giving you 4.4amps at 5v and
1amp at 12v.
I enclose a picture of a CD32 and power block
for reference.
Regards
AnthonyPT
PS. The Playstation WIKI has a list (it looks like) all Playstaion
models regardless of their distribution areas.
Attachments
Hi
Somewhere way back in the thread someone said:
"The older types, i.e. SCPH 1002 and SCPH5502 have got a separate oscillator of 67.7376MHz in order to clock the RISC CPU CXD 8806 whereas this clock frequency will be halved before it is send to the CPU itself. This divider seem to be inside the chip.
To me it seems, that the clock for the CD is generated by dividing the 67Mhz by four in order to get 16.9344 MHz. Doing this is very favourable in terms of signal quality, i.e. accuracy and jitter."
Sorry I am about to fall asleep its 12.50 am and I will look for the location later in the day if I can !
Anyway I assumed that the 5502 had the set up like the 1002
and only when the 7502 came out did the audio section go down
hill in the jitter department !
Regards
AnthonyPT
Somewhere way back in the thread someone said:
"The older types, i.e. SCPH 1002 and SCPH5502 have got a separate oscillator of 67.7376MHz in order to clock the RISC CPU CXD 8806 whereas this clock frequency will be halved before it is send to the CPU itself. This divider seem to be inside the chip.
To me it seems, that the clock for the CD is generated by dividing the 67Mhz by four in order to get 16.9344 MHz. Doing this is very favourable in terms of signal quality, i.e. accuracy and jitter."
Sorry I am about to fall asleep its 12.50 am and I will look for the location later in the day if I can !
Anyway I assumed that the 5502 had the set up like the 1002
and only when the 7502 came out did the audio section go down
hill in the jitter department !
Regards
AnthonyPT
HI
It was back at POST#165 of this tread similar statements were made and not contradicted .
=========
"mick i have a 5502 and it is exactly the same with with 1001-1002.
the only difference between them is the opamp and the rca output.
from the AV/OUT they are the same and the dac`s are the same
and the 67MHZ oscillator is the same but the 7xxx 9xxx and
ps one are different."
----------------------
So I assume the 5502 has much in common with the 1002!
I am really of to bed now!
AnthonyPT
It was back at POST#165 of this tread similar statements were made and not contradicted .
=========
"mick i have a 5502 and it is exactly the same with with 1001-1002.
the only difference between them is the opamp and the rca output.
from the AV/OUT they are the same and the dac`s are the same
and the 67MHZ oscillator is the same but the 7xxx 9xxx and
ps one are different."
----------------------
So I assume the 5502 has much in common with the 1002!
I am really of to bed now!
AnthonyPT
Hi
Have a look at this URL and scroll
down to view PS1 model history.The
page also has a nice Graphic of the
Playstation logo.
Perhaps one could make a transfer and
use ithe logo on a remote power supply box!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation#Production_run
regards
AnthonyPT
Have a look at this URL and scroll
down to view PS1 model history.The
page also has a nice Graphic of the
Playstation logo.
Perhaps one could make a transfer and
use ithe logo on a remote power supply box!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation#Production_run
regards
AnthonyPT
Hi, I have been using ps1 for cd players for many months as a result of this thread and others, thank you. 5501's have been very easy to find here on ebay, I have around 8 of them + a couple of 1001's that I save for future mods. Even 5501's have a tendency to overheat, I was having dropouts on mine last night, I need to get the power supply separated. I don't have a lot to add to this discussion but I will say that there are expensive shielded cables for the ps2 made by monster and pscyclone (sp?) that will work with the ps1. These cables are connected to the a/v multi-out, which is the best "tap" to connect to in unmodded ps1's as I understand. They retail for around $50-60 but a savvy ebayer can get them from $10-25. Hint: think Trader's Circuit (ie Circuit City Liquidators). I apologize if this has already been mentioned by others, I'm not about to read the thread to find out. Not everybody believes in cables but $10 for a nice thick cd player cable with gold connectors is worth investigating, Cheers
Hi!
Well I finally managed to perform Mick_F's output stage mods to my model 1002 Playstation this evening. I took out those 6 caps, plus the SMT resistor by the back of the board, replaced with one 4.7uF 50v Black Gate N per channel (only £3.60 per cap which for this project is more than justifiable). As luck would have it also had some solid silver wire someone had sent me ages ago which I used to wire up to the phono sockets, with a 22k resistors between '+' and '-' per channel.
I have only fired it up for 5 minutes but already my jaw is hitting the ground. The sound is so clear, full of life and involvement, and yet neutral as well. I don't want to hex anything at this early stage but so far it sounds like a giant killer with these mods - I can see why people are spending alot of time on modding these games consoles!
Thanks again goes to those who got the 'modding ball' rolling on these consoles. I'm seriously impressed
- John
P.S. will post some pics once I've worked out how to do it
Well I finally managed to perform Mick_F's output stage mods to my model 1002 Playstation this evening. I took out those 6 caps, plus the SMT resistor by the back of the board, replaced with one 4.7uF 50v Black Gate N per channel (only £3.60 per cap which for this project is more than justifiable). As luck would have it also had some solid silver wire someone had sent me ages ago which I used to wire up to the phono sockets, with a 22k resistors between '+' and '-' per channel.
I have only fired it up for 5 minutes but already my jaw is hitting the ground. The sound is so clear, full of life and involvement, and yet neutral as well. I don't want to hex anything at this early stage but so far it sounds like a giant killer with these mods - I can see why people are spending alot of time on modding these games consoles!
Thanks again goes to those who got the 'modding ball' rolling on these consoles. I'm seriously impressed
- John
P.S. will post some pics once I've worked out how to do it