I do not think you can choose the input and output impedances. The ad gives ranges because, as the ad says:
This is a R2R type attenuator. Therefore the input and output impedance varies with position
There is no schematic, so impossible to see exactly what it does.
I used Dantimax stuff.
Control 2
RelVol3 1k resistor series
C2Panel1-2 with 2 encoders
Input2
Dantimax (elektronik) - Selectors_-_attenuators
Works just fine with my P1.7
Control 2
RelVol3 1k resistor series
C2Panel1-2 with 2 encoders
Input2
Dantimax (elektronik) - Selectors_-_attenuators
Works just fine with my P1.7
I bought my Dantimax set because others had reported good results.
When I ran into trouble I expected to be able to get help to diagnose the cause of the distortion. I cannot do that without help and Mikkel does not respond to emails.
Easiest way to get help in your situation are to send the gear back to him, for him to solve out, i believe its very difficult for him to help you on mail.
For example, are you completely sure that the distorsion came from Dantimax stuff? If so, you have to search for a thread on this forum about Dantimax attenuator, its really helpfull! Often the wireing and earthing is the problem.
When Mikkel send my gear, he tip about wireing for best results, didn't you got that in your building description?
Many people would not be overly disturbed by "distorted during volume change." Even so, several people have reported no problems using the Dantimax kits in an Aleph P1.7. I have used several Dantimax kits with no problems. For example, I just finished a different preamp using the Remote 1, and it works beautifully. The reason I tried Dantimax is probably the same reason you did, his kits are considerably less expensive than the other choices for the functionality that you get. In fact, I am sure he is not getting rich from these kits. The profit margin has to be low. Your noise problem is almost for sure in your implementation and not with any flaw with his kits. I think it would be unreasonable to expect Mikkel to diagnose your implementation for free, ie: it is not fair to expect a $200 remote control for $50. Also, he might be very busy. I think companies like Dantimax really help the diy community by providing inexpensive kits that allow some of us to have what we could not otherwise easily afford. I hope Danimax continues. Maybe you can find someone locally to troubleshoot your implementation for free or a small fee, or maybe in this thread or a separate thread providing several detailed pictures, and a person with experience with your particular kits might spot something.
Hi Mixon1 and propitious,
I appreciate that you want to defend Mikkel, but I think you are barking up the wrong tree. TIC37 asked a questions about alternatives for Dantimax because Mikkel did not reply to HIS emails.
I considered buying a replacement RelVol-3 board (my problem could be due to something caused by transport or assembly) to solve the problem but was unable to buy one because Mikkel does not respond to emails.
I appreciate that you want to defend Mikkel, but I think you are barking up the wrong tree. TIC37 asked a questions about alternatives for Dantimax because Mikkel did not reply to HIS emails.
I told him that I ran into trouble and could not get help because Mikkel does not reply to my emails either. The distortion was bad enough that I removed the Dantimax stuff from my amp. I also told him other people have had good results with Dantimax.
As to the price, Propitious, I have no idea where you got the $ 50 price from you mentioned.
I paid Dantimax € 228 (plus 21% VAT) for my kit.
I considered buying a replacement RelVol-3 board (my problem could be due to something caused by transport or assembly) to solve the problem but was unable to buy one because Mikkel does not respond to emails.
I also could not get a response from Mikkel for months earlier this year which is quite unlike him. so he definitely is out of business for whatever reason.
I have RelVol3 boards in both my Aleph Ps. one is driving BA-3b monoblocks with no issues. the other one drives ICE power d-amp, 2-channels in bridged mode for high-power to the sub and that one distorts/pops when changing volume but it may have to do with the amp input impedance being low or something, or two halves going through different swings when changing input level.
btw: I have an extra Dantimax VolControl2 board and would not mind getting a RelVol3 kit or properly assembled board if someone had one.
I have RelVol3 boards in both my Aleph Ps. one is driving BA-3b monoblocks with no issues. the other one drives ICE power d-amp, 2-channels in bridged mode for high-power to the sub and that one distorts/pops when changing volume but it may have to do with the amp input impedance being low or something, or two halves going through different swings when changing input level.
btw: I have an extra Dantimax VolControl2 board and would not mind getting a RelVol3 kit or properly assembled board if someone had one.
Hi Koja,
I had not heard that others have had similar problems with the RelVol3.
My AP1.7 was connected to a DIY Aleph J (balanced), but I am not sure if the input impedance of the poweramp is the issue.
I wanted to make sure the problem was really due to my RelVol3, so tested my RelVol3 board as follows:
- Signal generator to input of RelVol3 (I tried L+, L-, R+ and R- in turn)
- Scope on RelVol3 output
- Change volume and observe
The RelVol3 board was connected to the other Dantimax parts (power and logic only, no signal) in order for it to work.
You can see the distortion on the scope as I changed volume https://youtu.be/WvkQ2TlmWj4
Hi albert LN!
I looked at your video, and that was really helpful to see what you meant with distortion.
The relay work as they should, but when the relay switching, it seems to not connect properly? Bad relays? Cold soldering?
It looks like the problem has to do with the RelVol3 board/components.
A picture of the board from both sides would be nice.
Not sure I can be to any help, but only my thoughts.
I looked at your video, and that was really helpful to see what you meant with distortion.
The relay work as they should, but when the relay switching, it seems to not connect properly? Bad relays? Cold soldering?
It looks like the problem has to do with the RelVol3 board/components.
A picture of the board from both sides would be nice.
Not sure I can be to any help, but only my thoughts.
Last edited:
Thanks Mixon1,
Because the distortion occurs on all 4 lines (L+, L-, R+ and R-) I do not think it is due to a single faulty relay or single cold solder, unless the cold solder would be in the control section. But it is quite possible that I have overlooked something
I will try to take some decent photo's tomorrow and would appreciate it if you would have a look.
Thanks,
albertNL
Because the distortion occurs on all 4 lines (L+, L-, R+ and R-) I do not think it is due to a single faulty relay or single cold solder, unless the cold solder would be in the control section. But it is quite possible that I have overlooked something
I will try to take some decent photo's tomorrow and would appreciate it if you would have a look.
Thanks,
albertNL
Hi albertNL!
I cant see any direct problem, maybe little too excess of solder, hard to see cold soldering because of that. In other area its looks like you have heated to much, damaged the relay? Not sure..
But why have you desoldering the iron core with line? It should be mounted, there is a reason that the designer chose to put it where it is.
Othervise it looks ok. with me.
Any other DIY'er see anything strange about the card?
Edit: When I took a look again, I see a relay (two, actually), that have what I suspected cold solder, take away excess of solder and re-solder them.
I cant see any direct problem, maybe little too excess of solder, hard to see cold soldering because of that. In other area its looks like you have heated to much, damaged the relay? Not sure..
But why have you desoldering the iron core with line? It should be mounted, there is a reason that the designer chose to put it where it is.
Othervise it looks ok. with me.
Any other DIY'er see anything strange about the card?
Edit: When I took a look again, I see a relay (two, actually), that have what I suspected cold solder, take away excess of solder and re-solder them.
Last edited:
Hi Mixon1,
Thanks for checking.
It forms a connection between audio ground and negative line of the Dantimax PSU. I removed it hoping the problem was due to Dantimax PSU switching noise contaminating the audio ground but it did not sovle the problem.
Thanks for checking.
It forms a connection between audio ground and negative line of the Dantimax PSU. I removed it hoping the problem was due to Dantimax PSU switching noise contaminating the audio ground but it did not sovle the problem.
Which ones?
Information Dantimax and help needed
Ok, apperantly Dantimax is open for buisness. I recieved answer for my last question;
-"are you open for buisness??"
-"yes"
Seem that Mikkel is an occupied man and don't always have time for answering mail and give support but after the short "yes" I do belive he is open for buisness.
The question is, what do I need to build and finish my Aleph P1.7
I don't need a remote but I want a OLED so I can see what source I am using and I want to change source and volume.
Anyone here who can help me with suggestions?
Ok, apperantly Dantimax is open for buisness. I recieved answer for my last question;
-"are you open for buisness??"
-"yes"
Seem that Mikkel is an occupied man and don't always have time for answering mail and give support but after the short "yes" I do belive he is open for buisness.
The question is, what do I need to build and finish my Aleph P1.7
I don't need a remote but I want a OLED so I can see what source I am using and I want to change source and volume.
Anyone here who can help me with suggestions?
Am I Right?
Mixon1
Control 2
RelVol3 1k resistor series
C2Panel1-2 with 2 encoders
Input2
As for your earlier post, let's see if I am right.
Control 2 is a control card that I need to connect several other devices
RelVol3 is the volume control itself, balanced
Input2 should be the input selector, also balanced as far as I understand
C2Panel1-2 with the two encoders...??
What does the C2Panel1-2 do??
and then you say I need a display as well...or?
You mean that I have to encode some parts also?? How is that done??
Power supply, is that a single or stand by or??
You see I am not very accustomed to this kind of construction, I have, up to now, been more of a plug'n play guy so you have to bare with me since I have a steep learning curve ahead.
I am more of a monkey with a soldering iron but I intend to get my Aleph P1.7 working cause I need to learn and understand.
Furthermore, finally I want to have a nice sounding system in the end also!
Mixon1
Control 2
RelVol3 1k resistor series
C2Panel1-2 with 2 encoders
Input2
As for your earlier post, let's see if I am right.
Control 2 is a control card that I need to connect several other devices
RelVol3 is the volume control itself, balanced
Input2 should be the input selector, also balanced as far as I understand
C2Panel1-2 with the two encoders...??
What does the C2Panel1-2 do??
and then you say I need a display as well...or?
You mean that I have to encode some parts also?? How is that done??
Power supply, is that a single or stand by or??
You see I am not very accustomed to this kind of construction, I have, up to now, been more of a plug'n play guy so you have to bare with me since I have a steep learning curve ahead.
I am more of a monkey with a soldering iron but I intend to get my Aleph P1.7 working cause I need to learn and understand.
Furthermore, finally I want to have a nice sounding system in the end also!
Last edited:
C2Panel1-2 is with two encoders, they works similar like potentiometers, you use them for chose input signal and volume, in daily use.
And you also use them when you program the set up, and for example give name to input selector, CD, BD, Tuner, etc.
You can also chose other panel, with buttons instead of encoders.
The PSU are used to supply the PCB's with power. I use 9V single.
You mentioned you want a OLED, that's what I meant
The OLED screen/display connects with the Control 2 PCB
I believe you gonna have great sound from the gear eventually.
And you also use them when you program the set up, and for example give name to input selector, CD, BD, Tuner, etc.
You can also chose other panel, with buttons instead of encoders.
The PSU are used to supply the PCB's with power. I use 9V single.
You mentioned you want a OLED, that's what I meant
The OLED screen/display connects with the Control 2 PCB
I believe you gonna have great sound from the gear eventually.
Gain and Volume
Have come so far that I started solder some resistors and have ordered some pieces that was missing but now I have a question about the gain.
Can I somehow make the gain switchable from the outside by not using the dip switch but instead have a selector on the front panel for different gain??
The reason for this is that I will be running this preamp towards two different types of power amps, one tube amp leaving around 10W and one Aleph J leaving about 25W. It would be nice to be able to change gain option from the front so I don't have to open it everytime I change.
Anyone here who can give me an idea about how to do it?
I would also want to ask, if I choose to run the preamp entirely dual mono and have separate volume controls for left and right, do I still have the possibility to do so via relays or is it easier to go via ordinary attenuators??
Have come so far that I started solder some resistors and have ordered some pieces that was missing but now I have a question about the gain.
Can I somehow make the gain switchable from the outside by not using the dip switch but instead have a selector on the front panel for different gain??
The reason for this is that I will be running this preamp towards two different types of power amps, one tube amp leaving around 10W and one Aleph J leaving about 25W. It would be nice to be able to change gain option from the front so I don't have to open it everytime I change.
Anyone here who can give me an idea about how to do it?
I would also want to ask, if I choose to run the preamp entirely dual mono and have separate volume controls for left and right, do I still have the possibility to do so via relays or is it easier to go via ordinary attenuators??