If you want to learn about our current solutions for dynamic headphone, you can read the DAO and the F5-HA threads.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/head...se-all-fet-class-zgf-headphone-amplifier.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/271926-f5-headamp.html
For volume control
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/head...ss-zgf-headphone-amplifier-4.html#post4347276
And F5X Pre for preamp.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/225230-f5x-preamp.html
There is even a solution, but not from us, for electrostatics.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/269255-x5hv-f5-principle-applied-headphone-amp.html
Thank you for your interest,
Patrick
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/head...se-all-fet-class-zgf-headphone-amplifier.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/271926-f5-headamp.html
For volume control
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/head...ss-zgf-headphone-amplifier-4.html#post4347276
And F5X Pre for preamp.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/225230-f5x-preamp.html
There is even a solution, but not from us, for electrostatics.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/269255-x5hv-f5-principle-applied-headphone-amp.html
Thank you for your interest,
Patrick
Dave from Landfall Systems ( https://www.landfallsystems.com/ ) has made a chassis for this project, I just received it today. It looks fantastic!! Haven't even got it together, but had to share some photos -
The back panel has RCA and a cutout for a Schurter 6765 series IEC power inlet with fuse and switch. The front has cutouts for a Neutrik 1/4 locking jack and the Alps pot.
My favorite bit - the U channel is firmly attached to the chassis side with 3 screws, and the output devices clip to it, so there's no fiddly screws to install on the TO-220 pieces once everything is all together, and, much more importantly, the chassis becomes the heatsink.
The back panel has RCA and a cutout for a Schurter 6765 series IEC power inlet with fuse and switch. The front has cutouts for a Neutrik 1/4 locking jack and the Alps pot.
My favorite bit - the U channel is firmly attached to the chassis side with 3 screws, and the output devices clip to it, so there's no fiddly screws to install on the TO-220 pieces once everything is all together, and, much more importantly, the chassis becomes the heatsink.
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These are not the final schematic, there need to be some more annotations, especially in the PSU. That said, the circuit is correct.
If you look at the regulator configuration, there are pads for resistors, a reference diode, and a bypass cap. None are strictly necessary, and you certianly don't want to use all at the same time... it will be explained in the guide.
If you look at the regulator configuration, there are pads for resistors, a reference diode, and a bypass cap. None are strictly necessary, and you certianly don't want to use all at the same time... it will be explained in the guide.
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Plenty of other options for this position I'd say
/U.
Yes... I can play with other options while Mouser waits the replenishment.
However, I would like make it as close as possible to the original.
Strictly speaking, the OPA2604 is necessary only if you use 24V rails. (Useful if you have very high impedance headphones (600ohm) and want to listen at deafening levels...OR want to drive an F4 to the rails... )
With 18V or 15V rails you will still have buckets of power for essentially every headphone out there, and be able to use a huge assortment of opamps.
On the old PCB I really liked the AD823AN, I'll try it as soon as I get a PCB configured for 18V rails. (I'll use 7815/7915 regulators and stand them on green LED; will probably have closer to 17V, but you get the general idea.)
I also have the Muses opamps to try...
AD823ANZ Analog Devices | Mouser
)With 18V or 15V rails you will still have buckets of power for essentially every headphone out there, and be able to use a huge assortment of opamps.
On the old PCB I really liked the AD823AN, I'll try it as soon as I get a PCB configured for 18V rails. (I'll use 7815/7915 regulators and stand them on green LED; will probably have closer to 17V, but you get the general idea.)
I also have the Muses opamps to try...
AD823ANZ Analog Devices | Mouser
Strictly speaking, the OPA2604 is necessary only if you use 24V rails. (Useful if you have very high impedance headphones (600ohm) and want to listen at deafening levels...OR want to drive an F4 to the rails...
You know that I like the "Little Amps"...
So the 24volt versión until now is the most attractive. With 18V or 15V rails you will still have buckets of power for essentially every headphone out there, and be able to use a huge assortment of opamps.
On the old PCB I really liked the AD823AN, I'll try it as soon as I get a PCB configured for 18V rails. (I'll use 7815/7915 regulators and stand them on green LED; will probably have closer to 17V, but you get the general idea.)
I also have the Muses opamps to try...
AD823ANZ Analog Devices | Mouser
Ohhhh god!!!! now I need two pcb´s!!!!
I like it
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Muse...
I look forward to hearing your reports on how the Muse sounds in this HPA.
Strictly speaking, the OPA2604 is necessary only if you use 24V rails. (Useful if you have very high impedance headphones (600ohm) and want to listen at deafening levels...OR want to drive an F4 to the rails...
With 18V or 15V rails you will still have buckets of power for essentially every headphone out there, and be able to use a huge assortment of opamps.
On the old PCB I really liked the AD823AN, I'll try it as soon as I get a PCB configured for 18V rails. (I'll use 7815/7915 regulators and stand them on green LED; will probably have closer to 17V, but you get the general idea.)
I also have the Muses opamps to try...
AD823ANZ Analog Devices | Mouser
I look forward to hearing your reports on how the Muse sounds in this HPA.
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