Just a quick note to say THANK YOU for the fabulous TA3020 V.2
I made a few mods that IMHO make it sound better but 90% of the stuff has been made by you.
It sounds really great. I'm using it with a 2X38V 8A transformer and a custom made power supply that I built on a breadboard (it has two 8A rectifier bridges, one per rail, plus 4 X15.000uF Panasonic caps and a bunch of Epcos Polypropilene capacitors.
I removed the onboard rectifier bridge, changed the input capacitors with two audiofarad bi-metallized polypropilene (same value as the original ones) and, last, but not least, I removed the horrid molex connector soldered onboard, the only thing I didn't really like in the original setup, because with it I was forced to use the included male molex connector featuring some low quality non copper cables.
The screw connector showed in the official pictures is definitely better, at least one can use some copper cables with it.
Anyway, I totally removed the molex connector and soldered the cables directly onboard.
Definitely a great amp which requires only very few mods to be perfect.
My apologies for the quality of the picture, my wife and child went on holiday with the only decent camera I had, but you get the idea anyway...
I made a few mods that IMHO make it sound better but 90% of the stuff has been made by you.
It sounds really great. I'm using it with a 2X38V 8A transformer and a custom made power supply that I built on a breadboard (it has two 8A rectifier bridges, one per rail, plus 4 X15.000uF Panasonic caps and a bunch of Epcos Polypropilene capacitors.
I removed the onboard rectifier bridge, changed the input capacitors with two audiofarad bi-metallized polypropilene (same value as the original ones) and, last, but not least, I removed the horrid molex connector soldered onboard, the only thing I didn't really like in the original setup, because with it I was forced to use the included male molex connector featuring some low quality non copper cables.
The screw connector showed in the official pictures is definitely better, at least one can use some copper cables with it.
Anyway, I totally removed the molex connector and soldered the cables directly onboard.
Definitely a great amp which requires only very few mods to be perfect.
My apologies for the quality of the picture, my wife and child went on holiday with the only decent camera I had, but you get the idea anyway...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
TA2022 noise still there on latest version?
Hi guys,
I'm interested to purchase the TA2022 board. I read in this forum that a few users have experienced noise on the older board.
Is the new board still having such issues? I'm using 94dB/w/m Fostex 167E driver and it will be sensitive to noises.
Your feedback is very appreciated.
Thanks!
Ken
Hi guys,
I'm interested to purchase the TA2022 board. I read in this forum that a few users have experienced noise on the older board.
Is the new board still having such issues? I'm using 94dB/w/m Fostex 167E driver and it will be sensitive to noises.
Your feedback is very appreciated.
Thanks!
Ken
Re: TA2022 noise still there on latest version?
the idle current draw depends on the supply voltage. and the BBM setting. i use by default 120nS which has the lowest idle current draw and good THD.
at +-40V 120mA for negative rail, 40mA for positive rail
at +-45V 100mA for negative rail, 38mA for positive rail
at +-50V 88mA for negative rail, 36mA for positive rail
at +-55V 82mA for negative rail, 35mA for positive rail
at +-60V 78mA for negative rail, 34mA for positive rail
on the final stage there are 2 pairs of lateral MOS, 2SK1058 and 2SJ162 for every stage. in the driver stage, MJE340 / MJE350
if you reffer at the TA2022 board which i sold last year, were few pieces with noise problems, and that one i discontinued and replaced for customers who bought-it and i made the new board wich is the improved version, and better SN ratio.
wingman said:
the idle current draw depends on the supply voltage. and the BBM setting. i use by default 120nS which has the lowest idle current draw and good THD.
at +-40V 120mA for negative rail, 40mA for positive rail
at +-45V 100mA for negative rail, 38mA for positive rail
at +-50V 88mA for negative rail, 36mA for positive rail
at +-55V 82mA for negative rail, 35mA for positive rail
at +-60V 78mA for negative rail, 34mA for positive rail
vitalica said:
on the final stage there are 2 pairs of lateral MOS, 2SK1058 and 2SJ162 for every stage. in the driver stage, MJE340 / MJE350
lhgin said:
if you reffer at the TA2022 board which i sold last year, were few pieces with noise problems, and that one i discontinued and replaced for customers who bought-it and i made the new board wich is the improved version, and better SN ratio.
Hi CNX,
I received your soft start module a week ago and sent you an email but no reply yet, I gather you are a little busy! There is a modification to the PCB underside, I'll post pics here - was just wondering if it's normal? It looks like a wire bridge between 2 points on the PCB and a track has been broken purposefully.
Rich.
EDIT: It looks to be a professional mod job, but I was rather startled to see this on a module that has your name to it. The TA3020v1 and PSU module with ELNA caps I bought from you before look perfect. (But I have yet to assemble the amp!)
I received your soft start module a week ago and sent you an email but no reply yet, I gather you are a little busy! There is a modification to the PCB underside, I'll post pics here - was just wondering if it's normal? It looks like a wire bridge between 2 points on the PCB and a track has been broken purposefully.
Rich.
EDIT: It looks to be a professional mod job, but I was rather startled to see this on a module that has your name to it. The TA3020v1 and PSU module with ELNA caps I bought from you before look perfect. (But I have yet to assemble the amp!)
there are some problems regarding mails. some of them i tried to fix, at least partially, the others are still there. since i'm not good at webdesign i ask a friend which work in this field to help me. probably i will change the hosting too. as i understand, the actual hosting has limited trafic at few tens of GB per month, and sometimes when the trafic limit is reached the page load very slow or cannot load at all. same with email, if i get too many emails, i cannot get the ones which are coming after the quota is exceeded. this ussually happen at the end of the month or after middle of the month. and also, there is some kind of spam filter, in which i have to add all the new email addresses manually or at least email domains. if i disable the spam filter, the mail will be fludded with spam and the quota will be exceeded in fed days.
i choose to use a public mail address, which seems to be better than the paid one, so i use the address connexelectronic () gmail.com. but sometimes it happens to miss one-two mails, i use 3 computers and if i read on one of them, answer on another, is easy to skip them, esspecially when there are 20-30-40 mails every day.
i applogise for those who don't get answer for their mails in time and i ask them to resend the same mail again.
dvenardos:
first of all, i counted the version numbers in order of their development and release. first was the TA3020 amp, i haven't called version number, some ppls knows as v1. as it was very successfull, i continued to improve and i made the version 2. in the meantime i soldout all v1. next, i had some requests for a very compact amp and i made the v3. the iprooved version is v3a.
-- version 2 has the rectifier bridge and 2x12,000uF capacitors on board, only need to add the transformer, case and connectors, potentiometer. can provide 5V at 500mA and 10V at 500mA for cooling fan, and other aux. stages
-- version 3 (3a) doesn't have the rectifier bridge on board, since is much smaller, 100x100x40mm. the caps are smaller also, 1000uF each, is suitable to be powered by smps or transformer+rectifier+caps. can provide 5V at 200mA, max 400mA.
-- version 3a, similar to version 3, i removed the 5V out and improoved the layout for better SN.
for more details, please take a look at the amplifiers manuals, there are few details there which can underline the differences.
Richard:
on the powersoftstart PCB i made a little msitake, i connected that resistor at the collector of the transistor instead of emitter. i had to correct it or to throw away all the boards and make new ones. since the modification is not too complicated i choose the first choice. it is working as it is now, i test all the boards before shipping. no need to change anything. just plug-in the wires and play.
Ken:
i will contact you regarding shipping cost to malaysia.
i choose to use a public mail address, which seems to be better than the paid one, so i use the address connexelectronic () gmail.com. but sometimes it happens to miss one-two mails, i use 3 computers and if i read on one of them, answer on another, is easy to skip them, esspecially when there are 20-30-40 mails every day.
i applogise for those who don't get answer for their mails in time and i ask them to resend the same mail again.
dvenardos:
first of all, i counted the version numbers in order of their development and release. first was the TA3020 amp, i haven't called version number, some ppls knows as v1. as it was very successfull, i continued to improve and i made the version 2. in the meantime i soldout all v1. next, i had some requests for a very compact amp and i made the v3. the iprooved version is v3a.
-- version 2 has the rectifier bridge and 2x12,000uF capacitors on board, only need to add the transformer, case and connectors, potentiometer. can provide 5V at 500mA and 10V at 500mA for cooling fan, and other aux. stages
-- version 3 (3a) doesn't have the rectifier bridge on board, since is much smaller, 100x100x40mm. the caps are smaller also, 1000uF each, is suitable to be powered by smps or transformer+rectifier+caps. can provide 5V at 200mA, max 400mA.
-- version 3a, similar to version 3, i removed the 5V out and improoved the layout for better SN.
for more details, please take a look at the amplifiers manuals, there are few details there which can underline the differences.
Richard:
on the powersoftstart PCB i made a little msitake, i connected that resistor at the collector of the transistor instead of emitter. i had to correct it or to throw away all the boards and make new ones. since the modification is not too complicated i choose the first choice. it is working as it is now, i test all the boards before shipping. no need to change anything. just plug-in the wires and play.
Ken:
i will contact you regarding shipping cost to malaysia.
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