My unfinished gaincline chassis

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Bricolo said:
Some questions about the last 2 pictures:


ScottRHinson: what's at the right of the transformer, in this amp?
Does someone have an idea why the shielding plates don't go completely from one side to the other?


Everything is to the right of the transformer. Signal stages, power amp, volume controls everything. I know exactly why it doesn't run the full length. Even if you dont' completely shield something a well placed partial shield can do most if not the whole job. I've done this with RF circuits on several occasions. I had sophisticated gear to tell me how I was doing with placement though. That amount of shielding was deemed good enough, so that's why it stops where it does.

Scott
 
Bricolo said:



Can you explain why? I was thinking about making a faraday cage around the PS, but this makes a sort of shorted turn. What's the problem with this?


Not quite. A shorted turn is a conductive path through the center of the toroidal transformer, around the outside, and then back to the center. If you can start at a point, say the mounting bolt, and you attach that bolt to the bottom of the chassis, AND the top of the chassis then you can draw a complete circle through the center of the transformer and it's a shorted turn. This is just like taking your outputs, shorting them together and then plugging them in. Transformer death is the result.

If you only attach the bolt to the bottom of the chassis and not the top, there is not complete circle through the transformer. No shorted turn.

Scott
 
ScottRHinson said:


Everything is to the right of the transformer. Signal stages, power amp, volume controls everything. I know exactly why it doesn't run the full length. Even if you dont' completely shield something a well placed partial shield can do most if not the whole job. I've done this with RF circuits on several occasions. I had sophisticated gear to tell me how I was doing with placement though. That amount of shielding was deemed good enough, so that's why it stops where it does.

Scott


OK, but is there a problem in using the full length?
 
ScottRHinson said:


Not quite. A shorted turn is a conductive path through the center of the toroidal transformer, around the outside, and then back to the center. If you can start at a point, say the mounting bolt, and you attach that bolt to the bottom of the chassis, AND the top of the chassis then you can draw a complete circle through the center of the transformer and it's a shorted turn. This is just like taking your outputs, shorting them together and then plugging them in. Transformer death is the result.

If you only attach the bolt to the bottom of the chassis and not the top, there is not complete circle through the transformer. No shorted turn.

Scott

OK, I understant.
There won't be a shorted turn going thru the center of the transformer, it's only bolted to the bottom of the chassis (but the top of the screw will be very close to the top plate)


PS: how can you see that a transformer is dead or damaged?
 
fedde said:
You can smell it... :devilr:

Fedde


:D

I asked this question because at the beginning of my gainclone project, I wired a PS cap in the wrong polarity
->BAM!

the cap "exploded", and the tiny cables it was soldered to had theyr insulation melted


my big mistake was that I didn't use a fuse on the mains. So, big currents can have flown thru the transformer, and I don't know if it's damaged (the amp still works now, after having changed the cap)
 
Never omit a fuse at the primaries of the toroids! In case of a short you risk fire in the toroids or melting of the internal fuse of the toroid. :hot:

I don't think the toroid is damaged by the cap. You could measure the impedances of the primaries and secondaries. (and compare the measurements to your second toroid, if you have that...)

Fedde
 
Bricolo said:
Peter Daniel: how did you fix the metal spacers that are between the PCBs and the chassis plates? Are they screwed? How did you do that? (I can't see how you can drill a hole and taper in in a such thin plate)

I used metal stand offs. They have screw end on one side (which goes into bottom panel) and the hole on top, where PCB mounting screw is.
 
fedde said:
Never omit a fuse at the primaries of the toroids! In case of a short you risk fire in the toroids or melting of the internal fuse of the toroid. :hot:

I don't think the toroid is damaged by the cap. You could measure the impedances of the primaries and secondaries. (and compare the measurements to your second toroid, if you have that...)

Fedde

Yes I know, now I always use a fuse

BTW, what are you meaning in "the internal fuse of the toroid"?




Peter: I see how the stand off are made, but what I want to know is how the bottom panel is done.
Have you drilled a hole and tapered it, so you can screw the stand off in it? If yes, did you drill a complete hole in the bottom panel (I mean a hole that goes to the exterior)
 
Bricolo said:

Peter: I see how the stand off are made, but what I want to know is how the bottom panel is done.
Have you drilled a hole and tapered it, so you can screw the stand off in it? If yes, did you drill a complete hole in the bottom panel (I mean a hole that goes to the exterior)


That's exactly what I did. It's drilled through, but since it's the bottom, I don't see it and it doesn't bother me. It also provides more "industrial" feel to the whole chassis;)
 
Bricolo said:


:confused: :scratch:



I was looking for a way to screw my gainclone chips to the sides, with the same method. But I don't want to see the hoes from the exterior.

but tapering even 2mm in a 4mm deep hole is impossible, at leat with my tools

It seems like you are using 6mm panels, so this is close to 1/4" . I tapered #4 holes in that thick material (without going through) by using a tap which had the tip trimmed. It shouldn't be a problem.
 
Bricolo said:


OK, I understant.
There won't be a shorted turn going thru the center of the transformer, it's only bolted to the bottom of the chassis (but the top of the screw will be very close to the top plate)


PS: how can you see that a transformer is dead or damaged?



In that case I would try to find a thin piece of surplus teflon to make sure that it never touches due to the toroid getting loose over time from vibration or any of the other reasons.

I doubt you killed your transformer with the caps, since transformers are made of metal and insulation they tend to be very tough devices when made well.

As a poster has already said use a DMM to check continuity and resistance...then check to make sure you're getting the right DC levels. If so, it's fine.

Scott
 
fedde: where is this fuse located? In the toroid itself??!!
I've found another solution that yours using "external pression, instead of internal pression" (If I understood your idea, you're thinking about clamping the transformer by using a bar and bolts that are outside the transformer, am I right?)

Peter Daniel: I'll try. Thanks for the idea ;)

ScottRHinson: First, do you have a reference text that explains that we musn't have a metallical ring going thru the transformer's hole? You're the first that tells me about this (it seems quite logical, but you're still the first)

But I've found another solution as putting a teflon sheet:
A plastic bolt
 
Bricolo said:
fedde: where is this fuse located? In the toroid itself??!!
I've found another solution that yours using "external pression, instead of internal pression" (If I understood your idea, you're thinking about clamping the transformer by using a bar and bolts that are outside the transformer, am I right?)

Peter Daniel: I'll try. Thanks for the idea ;)

ScottRHinson: First, do you have a reference text that explains that we musn't have a metallical ring going thru the transformer's hole? You're the first that tells me about this (it seems quite logical, but you're still the first)

But I've found another solution as putting a teflon sheet:
A plastic bolt

You can have metal going through the center. It just can't go through the center and all the way around and complete a circle.

Scott
 
ScottRHinson said:


You can have metal going through the center. It just can't go through the center and all the way around and complete a circle.

Scott


Ok, since my chassis has been made to be the flatest possible, the top could touch the top of the bolt...

I think that a M8 plastic bolt will be strong enough, but if someone has an opinion about this I'd like to knw it ;)
 
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