If it originally uses 47uf 25V, then I'm sure you can find some other 47uf 25V that will work. If originally supplied, they can be made to fit once more. I would not change their capacitance to 22uf or 33uf. I think it would change FR and screw with the sound. From my understanding, the DEQ is overly complex with somewhat decent underlying engineering. The problem is their overseas manufacturing and implementation of cheap, cost-cutting passives everywhere that should've never been used in the first place. It would've been much better to have sold this at a higher MSRP using quality passives that can match the quality ICs that were used.
According to this thread, there are instances where poor coupling, bypassing and grounding are also evident, which can be overcome, but probably should've been properly implemented in the first place, saving us all a lot of time and trouble. I just read through all 26 pages of it. This thread is overly confusing and a mess, with way more pages about random obscure stuff than it needs. A new one should be started with basics everyone can easily understand and benefit from, such as all electrolytic and ceramic cap values, model variations, and suggested cap replacements with lots of pics of the process- regardless of what further modding can be done. I think we can all agree everyone should be replacing the electrolytics, for starters, at the minimum, before it's too late. It's a decent platform to work on, except for all the SMD ceramics getting in the way, holding back the sound.
According to this thread, there are instances where poor coupling, bypassing and grounding are also evident, which can be overcome, but probably should've been properly implemented in the first place, saving us all a lot of time and trouble. I just read through all 26 pages of it. This thread is overly confusing and a mess, with way more pages about random obscure stuff than it needs. A new one should be started with basics everyone can easily understand and benefit from, such as all electrolytic and ceramic cap values, model variations, and suggested cap replacements with lots of pics of the process- regardless of what further modding can be done. I think we can all agree everyone should be replacing the electrolytics, for starters, at the minimum, before it's too late. It's a decent platform to work on, except for all the SMD ceramics getting in the way, holding back the sound.
Does the PS end of that cable come off? I tried - would not come off.
The Main board end came off easily. I unplugged and plugged it several times but no good.
I left it on, flashing while I was typing to you... something popped!
Then it came on! Shut it down, powered it up again... working
Upon close inspection, the top of a 470uf cap near the transistor closest to the wires from the power switch looks split.
Ideas! Thanks for your help so far. Merry Christmas 🎁🎄 Tony
If, in a moment that is not flashing, while you move the psu connector (both sides) the screen does not flash .. you probably have a "cold weld" ... ie badly made which makes false contact.
I don't know where.
maybe it's the flat cable that connects the front panel to the digital card?
post a photo of capacitor!
I don't know where.
maybe it's the flat cable that connects the front panel to the digital card?
post a photo of capacitor!
Thanks for the rapid fire reply! I’m familiar w/cold welds or cold solder joints.
I’ve had this unit for maybe 10 years. First time using it in 3 years. Irrelevant perhaps? Neve any problems till my previous post several days ago.
Want to use the RTA to “read” my Home Theatre’s different channels’ in-room frequency response.
I put it away for now because munchkin just came home bouncing off the walls.
When the cost is clear (tomorrow?) I’ll post a photo
So many thanks to people w/big hearts! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁. Tony
I’ve had this unit for maybe 10 years. First time using it in 3 years. Irrelevant perhaps? Neve any problems till my previous post several days ago.
Want to use the RTA to “read” my Home Theatre’s different channels’ in-room frequency response.
I put it away for now because munchkin just came home bouncing off the walls.
When the cost is clear (tomorrow?) I’ll post a photo
So many thanks to people w/big hearts! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁. Tony
Does the PS end of that cable come off? I tried - would not come off.
The Main board end came off easily. I unplugged and plugged it several times but no good.
I left it on, flashing while I was typing to you... something popped!
Then it came on! Shut it down, powered it up again... working
Upon close inspection, the top of a 470uf cap near the transistor closest to the wires from the power switch looks split.
Ideas! Thanks for your help so far. Merry Christmas 🎁🎄 Tony
Right on queue! I told you the stock electrolytics suck. They're ticking time-bombs. Everyone needs to recap them that hasn't already! Any mods are going to be short-lived with the stock e-caps as these units are now getting pretty long in the tooth and ready to expire without a refresh.
Is this the post you were thinking of? I’m ok w/replacing all the PS “problem children.” Make and any specification upgrade or “like for like?”
Replace all the 470/16 and 470/25 with the Nichicon UKL low-leakage type as well as any others in the power supply with UKL series of the same capacitance as originals, with voltage ratings the same as originals, or one or two steps higher (max). Otherwise increased ripple starts to get out of hand and changes design parameters. Now available in 10% tolerance! See pic below. Usually these electrolytics (and all others) are rated at 20%, so this is great.
Low-leakage is sometimes referred to as "low-noise" which is what you want in a power supply. Most choose the low ESR/ High Ripple route, also fine, just possibly a little noisier.
Low-leakage is sometimes referred to as "low-noise" which is what you want in a power supply. Most choose the low ESR/ High Ripple route, also fine, just possibly a little noisier.
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I have buy yesterday new cap to replace in the psu.
I am applying this guide (some caps of increased capacity) including RC filter in 9v line input that I will mount on a small pcb because I don't like flying components! > The BEHRINGER DCX2496 Power Supply | Blog di Mauro Munzi
But I suppose that soon I will throw the switching out of the window in favor of a linear one! Intent change the cap.
I chose panasonic fm and fc (for psu). I've always enjoyed it.
For the 10uf and 2uf caps on the digital card I bought panasonic FR (new series) .. ultralow esr..simili a oscon.
They are certainly better than the originals!
I am applying this guide (some caps of increased capacity) including RC filter in 9v line input that I will mount on a small pcb because I don't like flying components! > The BEHRINGER DCX2496 Power Supply | Blog di Mauro Munzi
But I suppose that soon I will throw the switching out of the window in favor of a linear one! Intent change the cap.
I chose panasonic fm and fc (for psu). I've always enjoyed it.
For the 10uf and 2uf caps on the digital card I bought panasonic FR (new series) .. ultralow esr..simili a oscon.
They are certainly better than the originals!
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Hi! .....I changed the electrolytics on the power supply and also on the digital board, adding, as per mod instructions, 3 of 10uf on the 3 caps of 100nF.
On the digital card I used Panasonic FR UltraLow ESR.
I also removed the two 1,5nF "superbad"ceramics and installed 1,5nF Vishay MKP 1%.
A bypass of all ceramic caps with MKP or MKT will follow later.
In the PSU I used Panasonic FM, values slightly increased, all bypassed by Wima MKT 100nF.
Now I would like to get my hands on the electrolytic caps of the analog output card.
Specifically I would like to change only the analog signal input caps (original 47uF / 25v).
The output ones don't interest me since I go digital.
Is there any expert technician who knows what the minimum capacitance values are for not making a cut in the audio band and the minimum working voltage value? Can 33uF be considered? Can 6.3v be considered?
I insist with the question why, ideally, if it were enough - for example - "few uF" it would be better to use two wires + good MKP cap!
These considerations would be useful to open a wider choice on the caps on the market.
The maximum installable diameter is 6.3mm.
There is one other thing I don't understand.
If the best electrolytic caps for audio signals are Elna Silmic II (RFS), Nichicon Muse (UES Bipolar) and Elna Cerafine ... why aren't Silmic II and Cerafine Bipolar?
I have always known that only bipolar devices are suitable for the audio signal.
In the end I have 3 options....
Would Nichicon Muse be preferred then because is ONLY Bipolar?
Real Options (already found where to buy them):
1) Elna Silmic II > RFS-10V470ME3 > 47uF 10v > Diameter 5.0mm
2) Nic. Muse BP > UES1A470MEM > 47uF 10v > Diameter 6.3mm
3) Elna Cerafine > ???? > 47uF 10v > Diameter 6.3
I believe these are the best electrolytics (DEQ compatible), apart from the Black gates which no longer exist!
Would it be suitable to bypass them with a MKT or MKP?
If so, what capacity? 1/10? 470nf?
Happy New Year
On the digital card I used Panasonic FR UltraLow ESR.
I also removed the two 1,5nF "superbad"ceramics and installed 1,5nF Vishay MKP 1%.
A bypass of all ceramic caps with MKP or MKT will follow later.
In the PSU I used Panasonic FM, values slightly increased, all bypassed by Wima MKT 100nF.
Now I would like to get my hands on the electrolytic caps of the analog output card.
Specifically I would like to change only the analog signal input caps (original 47uF / 25v).
The output ones don't interest me since I go digital.
Is there any expert technician who knows what the minimum capacitance values are for not making a cut in the audio band and the minimum working voltage value? Can 33uF be considered? Can 6.3v be considered?
I insist with the question why, ideally, if it were enough - for example - "few uF" it would be better to use two wires + good MKP cap!
These considerations would be useful to open a wider choice on the caps on the market.
The maximum installable diameter is 6.3mm.
There is one other thing I don't understand.
If the best electrolytic caps for audio signals are Elna Silmic II (RFS), Nichicon Muse (UES Bipolar) and Elna Cerafine ... why aren't Silmic II and Cerafine Bipolar?
I have always known that only bipolar devices are suitable for the audio signal.
In the end I have 3 options....
Would Nichicon Muse be preferred then because is ONLY Bipolar?
Real Options (already found where to buy them):
1) Elna Silmic II > RFS-10V470ME3 > 47uF 10v > Diameter 5.0mm
2) Nic. Muse BP > UES1A470MEM > 47uF 10v > Diameter 6.3mm
3) Elna Cerafine > ???? > 47uF 10v > Diameter 6.3
I believe these are the best electrolytics (DEQ compatible), apart from the Black gates which no longer exist!
Would it be suitable to bypass them with a MKT or MKP?
If so, what capacity? 1/10? 470nf?
Happy New Year
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I would not change capacitance or undercut voltage values to allow fitment in tight spaces. Stick with 47uf 25V and find other series that will fit.
UKA, UKW, and a brand-new audio series USW would work for fitment. All are audio-grade and 5mm in diameter except for USW which is 6.3mm. I finally received my DEQ and will be ordering the new 47uf 25V USW series because I am curious to hear how they sound. The original Decon and Xunda caps were probably General-Purpose, cheap Chinese caps. Any Nichicons, Panasonic’s or Elnas would be a huge improvement, especially if they are audio-grade, or are selected for low leakage, impedance or ESR.
Otherwise, I would choose UKW or UKA which would be an exact fit to the originals. In general, don’t change capacitance or voltage value on caps. Just because one person on a thread says you should do it doesn’t always mean it’s safe or a good idea. I am going to purchase the upgraded analog board kit through behringermods. It’s slightly more expensive than purchasing a bunch of other upgraded capacitors, but to me it’s worth the piece of mind of knowing it’s very likely to work as intended once assembled and installed. Here are other options for the 47uf 25V. Bi-polars are technically better than polarized, but that doesn’t always mean you would even notice a difference.
UKA, UKW, and a brand-new audio series USW would work for fitment. All are audio-grade and 5mm in diameter except for USW which is 6.3mm. I finally received my DEQ and will be ordering the new 47uf 25V USW series because I am curious to hear how they sound. The original Decon and Xunda caps were probably General-Purpose, cheap Chinese caps. Any Nichicons, Panasonic’s or Elnas would be a huge improvement, especially if they are audio-grade, or are selected for low leakage, impedance or ESR.
Otherwise, I would choose UKW or UKA which would be an exact fit to the originals. In general, don’t change capacitance or voltage value on caps. Just because one person on a thread says you should do it doesn’t always mean it’s safe or a good idea. I am going to purchase the upgraded analog board kit through behringermods. It’s slightly more expensive than purchasing a bunch of other upgraded capacitors, but to me it’s worth the piece of mind of knowing it’s very likely to work as intended once assembled and installed. Here are other options for the 47uf 25V. Bi-polars are technically better than polarized, but that doesn’t always mean you would even notice a difference.
Attachments
Hey, what an upgrade:
The κDCX fully-differential analog board for Behringer DCX2496 and DCX2496LE
But for DCX2496.
The κDCX fully-differential analog board for Behringer DCX2496 and DCX2496LE
But for DCX2496.
Hi guys, hope all is well!
Thanks everyone for sharing this info.
I'm ready for the total recap of the ceramic caps as seen in this photo of someone who did it. I have the material.
A really stupid question.
But do I put the new cap wima in place of ceramics or do I add them to ceramics (in parallel)?
I have already removed the two super-bad 1.5nf ceramics on the ak5393 and put 2 good caps 1.5nF mkp 1% ero-vishay.
I have already changed all electrolytic including those of the power supply.
I also bypassed them all with wima mkp 100nF, under the board.
Thanks!
Current situation:
Thanks everyone for sharing this info.
I'm ready for the total recap of the ceramic caps as seen in this photo of someone who did it. I have the material.
A really stupid question.
But do I put the new cap wima in place of ceramics or do I add them to ceramics (in parallel)?
I have already removed the two super-bad 1.5nf ceramics on the ak5393 and put 2 good caps 1.5nF mkp 1% ero-vishay.
I have already changed all electrolytic including those of the power supply.
I also bypassed them all with wima mkp 100nF, under the board.
Thanks!
Current situation:
Mods DEQ2496
Hi
I made a passive out for the DEQ, I have 1 original DEQ and this one, started with measurements, I am not very good at it yet, but got measurements from the analog outs, can it really be that the original has such high THD?
Made the measurements with REW and a Logilink UA0099 USB external soundcard, did it a few times, one DEQ than the other DEQ, the modified one, have a look at the pics, I was surprised....straight through no filters set. Digital in analog out. Pics come in the next reply..have to upload them first...
Cheers, Tom.
Hi
I made a passive out for the DEQ, I have 1 original DEQ and this one, started with measurements, I am not very good at it yet, but got measurements from the analog outs, can it really be that the original has such high THD?
Made the measurements with REW and a Logilink UA0099 USB external soundcard, did it a few times, one DEQ than the other DEQ, the modified one, have a look at the pics, I was surprised....straight through no filters set. Digital in analog out. Pics come in the next reply..have to upload them first...
Cheers, Tom.
