I got my new lamp. It is for commercial projection use. people use it to replace the

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vmesquita said:
Hi TonyMontana,

Wouldn't the focus spot be in the same place the bulb of the old lamp was? Or does the focus spot change due to different arc/size of the bulb?
Could you give more detail on the method you used to determine the correct spot for the lamp?


the lamp ywh sent me was around 3.5mm longer compared to the original one and there was also a small difference in the position of the arc inside the bulb so my first estimation was wrong because it was based on the position of the original lamp and the reflection I observed inside the parabolic mirror...

so what i did was to loosen the lamp from the cement and connect the whole packaging to the projector outside the casing. I then kept pressed the safety switch which prevents the projector from turning on when the lamp compartment is open and fired it up. Then without delaying I moved the lamp - holding it from the screw part at the end with a set of pliers - back and forth until I could see the best focus of the light in terms of concentration and intensity.

Then I cement it again... I will soon test the projector and post some results..
 
zeims said:
HUH ! at last !! I had problems with wiring.. because I had bad solder.

Now I use the projector and the image, colors, lumens.. everything are just wonderful. Maybe this last longer(1000h) than original bulb!! ;)

Thanks YWH ;)


My test started relatively ok but the brightness went down after some time.. What kind of soldering problems did you have? I also soldered the reflector wire.. should I crimp it instead? I will open the projector again...
 
I had very interesting soldering problems ;) The solder "exploded/melt" everytime I put the projector on.. next time it didn't turn on, so I had to solder it again :bigeyes: So I decided to use basic copper wire to lace the lamp wire and connect/power wire together (same for both ends). Sounds maybe stupid, but it works because the copper has much higher melting point ;) So you need little finger skills :smash:

Tell me if you have better ideas ? ;)
 
zeims said:
I had very interesting soldering problems ;) The solder "exploded/melt" everytime I put the projector on.. next time it didn't turn on, so I had to solder it again :bigeyes: So I decided to use basic copper wire to lace the lamp wire and connect/power wire together (same for both ends). Sounds maybe stupid, but it works because the copper has much higher melting point ;) So you need little finger skills :smash:

Tell me if you have better ideas ? ;)


I was thinking of using this "thingy" that connects together electrical wires (dont know the english word for it) since I only have to do this with one wire of the lamp.. the other end has a screw connection..

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Have you considered the copper expanding due to heat thus making the connection loose?

I also need an alternative to cement cause I ran out.. could I use clay? or some cement which I can find in a hardware store?
 
That's good way ro connect wires, better than mine :D

Yes, I have considered the copper expanding. But I have used projector 3 hours now, works great ;)

I have heard that using chemical metal is easy. It works great ! Maybe you get it somewhere ;) I think u can use any material which holds the bulb and doesn't melt/burn in the heat. So any cement should be fine.
 
zeims said:
That's good way ro connect wires, better than mine :D

Yes, I have considered the copper expanding. But I have used projector 3 hours now, works great ;)

I have heard that using chemical metal is easy. It works great ! Maybe you get it somewhere ;) I think u can use any material which holds the bulb and doesn't melt/burn in the heat. So any cement should be fine.


dont worry this is not a competition :) ..Im glad that we exchange ideas ;) ...regarding the chemical metal is it easy to remove if necessary? ...I was thinking of using a material (thermal clay which consists among other stuff of heatproof cement) used to stick together bricks for fireplaces..
 
@TonyMontana and zeims
Congratulations on successfull mod! As for me I found a Infocus X1 with a 480 hour lamp so I won't be needing to replace for a while... But I think I'll buy the bulb already just in case ;)

I am thinking about compiling the replacement instructions from this thread in one consolidated document. There's a lot of info spread around this thread and it would be good to have the important info in 1 place.
 
vmesquita said:
@TonyMontana and zeims
Congratulations on successfull mod! As for me I found a Infocus X1 with a 480 hour lamp so I won't be needing to replace for a while... But I think I'll buy the bulb already just in case ;)

I am thinking about compiling the replacement instructions from this thread in one consolidated document. There's a lot of info spread around this thread and it would be good to have the important info in 1 place.


thats a good idea! make sure you include tested alternatives for the cement :D ..Im thinking of buying a spare lamp from ywh to save waiting time if this one fails for some reason.
 
You should write it in html document. Google will find it a lot easier ;)

The document was OK. I think the lamp change is very easy thing to do. So maybe it's easier to read, if you write it like this:


Removing the lamp:

Drill, water, screwdriver etc


Like a list of methods/tools etc.... with some pictures :)
 
ok today I re-focused the lamp because the re-used cement didnt have good stability.. I used white clay this time and later tonight I will tell you if I burned down the house or not :D Hopefully I wont destroy the lamp at the end.. How long can the lamp be on outside the projector?

Unfortunately I am a perfectionist so I will brake it at the end :D but the experience will be invaluable :p maybe Ill start a business over here repairing projectors and ywh will be my supplier :D :D

Regarding the instructions good work! Some details are missing as zeims mentioned along with details about expected lamp hours and also maximum time for the lamp outside the projector as I asked above.
 
zeims said:
You should write it in html document. Google will find it a lot easier ;)

Agreed :) I'll do it.
The document was OK. I think the lamp change is very easy thing to do. So maybe it's easier to read, if you write it like this:


Removing the lamp:

Drill, water, screwdriver etc


Like a list of methods/tools etc.... with some pictures :)
This definatelly would be better... The problem is that I have not yet changed the lamp myself :xeye: So I just transcribed others experience.


TonyMontana said:
ok today I re-focused the lamp because the re-used cement didnt have good stability.. I used white clay this time and later tonight I will tell you if I burned down the house or not :D Hopefully I wont destroy the lamp at the end.. How long can the lamp be on outside the projector?

I may be wrong here, but I don't think it makes any difference whether the lamp is inside or outside the projector...
Unfortunately I am a perfectionist so I will brake it at the end :D but the experience will be invaluable :p maybe Ill start a business over here repairing projectors and ywh will be my supplier :D :D
Yes this is a good idea... I also had this in mind... The only problem is lamp duration which is not know right now.
Regarding the instructions good work! Some details are missing as zeims mentioned along with details about expected lamp hours and also maximum time for the lamp outside the projector as I asked above.
I think the max lamp hours are yet to be known... Projectors have to be used for we to have statistics on this... :confused:
 
you see inside the projector the lamp is cooled down using fans so the quartz glass is not suffering from thermal stress ..the cooling takes place during lamp use and for couple of minutes after the lamp is powered down to allow for smooth cooling... so when the lamp is outside the projector this is not happening putting more stress to the lamp...
 
Hi vmesquita!
I think your lamp is VIPR120/P16.
http://www.schahl.de/stagestudio/pdf_osram_vip/VIP_R_120_P16a.pdf
cement is free.
I give up JYD/AC now. only BSM-AC-L, $80. shipping is $5

Hi zeims !
about solder, you can ask a dentist to help you if that is free;-), he has a spot welding instrument, look the picture.
you need spot welding wiring.

Hi TonyMontana !
thanks! so many inf
 

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