Well it looks like i screwed up... 
this is what I ordered
"jyd/DC
Lamp type 150W DC SHP lamp
It appears to be a double ended.
The projector is an Infocus X1"
This is my lamp housing
This is whats left of the lamp pulled out of the housing:
This is the lamp that arrived:
I guess I needed a singled ended lamp? I thought because
there was wires on both sides it was double ended. Is there a way
I could send this back for the correct lamp or will I be able to use this lamp?
this is what I ordered
"jyd/DC
Lamp type 150W DC SHP lamp
It appears to be a double ended.
The projector is an Infocus X1"
This is my lamp housing
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is whats left of the lamp pulled out of the housing:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is the lamp that arrived:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I guess I needed a singled ended lamp? I thought because
there was wires on both sides it was double ended. Is there a way
I could send this back for the correct lamp or will I be able to use this lamp?
Hi fuerio,
AFAIK, the lamp you've got is the correct lamp and the same one as I received for the InFocus X1. The coil of wire around one end is because it's a DC lamp, so it should be fine as long as you can physically fit it in the lamp housing.
You need to watch out for a few things when fitting the new lamp. Firstly, you can't let any of the cement / plaster stuff come into contact with the actual bulb part of the bulb.
If any dirt, plaster, or even fingerprints get onto the bulb part, the bulb won't last more than a few minutes because it needs to expand during use and any contaminants on the bulb will weaken it and very probably cause it to crack, or maybe even explode!!!
This is what happened when I tried to fit a new bulb to an InFocus X1. I got the plaster all over the bulb, but thought I'd cleaned it off well enough to get rid of it, but obviously not, as the bulb cracked when I tried to start the projector the next morning (it was working the night before).
Also, the "plastic" stuff they use for the lamp housings is often a high-temperature carbonised type plastic which can sometimes be fairly conductive to electricity. So, you've got to make sure the connections are far enough away from the plastic housing if you're not sure how conductive it is.
You'll notice on the original InFocus lamp that the connection from front end of the bulb is bent back down to the base of the reflector where both connections are made. They must have insulated the connections very well in the ceramic part that's all I can say!
The reason that the manufacturers can stick the glass part of the bulb in those ceramic things is because the ceramic and the cement they use expands at a very similar rate as the bulb does when it heats up. Otherwise, the bulb would crack, or come loose from the ceramic holder. This is why I think it's a good idea that these new bulbs have the metal part on them to hold the bulb properly.
And, it's probably not a good idea to use solder to connect the bulb wires to the projector's lamp cable because of the high temperatures involved when the lamp is running. I suppose it would be alright if the solder blob is further down the wire, as long as it's not too close to the bulb itself. I'm not too sure about this bit though, but I'm guessing that this is why they usually crimp or spot-weld the wires together?
AND.... you've got to make sure the wires are connected with the correct polarity with the JYd / JYs DC bulbs - The end of the bulb with the screw thread and nut on is the positive connection.....
If you look at the lamp connector on the InFocus itself, the top hole on the connector should be a square, and the bottom hole should be round. The top / square should be the positive connection.
Please don't rely on this info 100% - If you want to be sure about the polarity, you can test the voltage of the lamp with a multimeter, but ONLY AFTER the lamp is already lit. If you have a multimeter connected when the lamp first ignites, your multimeter WILL be FRIED!! (yep, I tried this with an old MM to see what would happen, and it wasn't pretty).
Alternatively, if you open the InFocus and look inside, the pink wire to the lamp should be the positive connection.
(The bulb will probably light even if the connections are reversed, but this is obviously very bad for the bulb in the long term.)
**** I accept no responsibility for missing limbs and / or burnt-down houses !!!! ****
You will also need to align the new bulb in the reflector as accurately as you can compared to the original bulb and hold it in place somehow while the cement sets. I've still yet to find a decent way of doing this, hence the fact that I ruined one of my new bulbs. Just try not to get ANY cement or dirt or anything on the bulb part itself!!
Hope that helps.
OzOnE.
AFAIK, the lamp you've got is the correct lamp and the same one as I received for the InFocus X1. The coil of wire around one end is because it's a DC lamp, so it should be fine as long as you can physically fit it in the lamp housing.
You need to watch out for a few things when fitting the new lamp. Firstly, you can't let any of the cement / plaster stuff come into contact with the actual bulb part of the bulb.
If any dirt, plaster, or even fingerprints get onto the bulb part, the bulb won't last more than a few minutes because it needs to expand during use and any contaminants on the bulb will weaken it and very probably cause it to crack, or maybe even explode!!!
This is what happened when I tried to fit a new bulb to an InFocus X1. I got the plaster all over the bulb, but thought I'd cleaned it off well enough to get rid of it, but obviously not, as the bulb cracked when I tried to start the projector the next morning (it was working the night before).
Also, the "plastic" stuff they use for the lamp housings is often a high-temperature carbonised type plastic which can sometimes be fairly conductive to electricity. So, you've got to make sure the connections are far enough away from the plastic housing if you're not sure how conductive it is.
You'll notice on the original InFocus lamp that the connection from front end of the bulb is bent back down to the base of the reflector where both connections are made. They must have insulated the connections very well in the ceramic part that's all I can say!
The reason that the manufacturers can stick the glass part of the bulb in those ceramic things is because the ceramic and the cement they use expands at a very similar rate as the bulb does when it heats up. Otherwise, the bulb would crack, or come loose from the ceramic holder. This is why I think it's a good idea that these new bulbs have the metal part on them to hold the bulb properly.
And, it's probably not a good idea to use solder to connect the bulb wires to the projector's lamp cable because of the high temperatures involved when the lamp is running. I suppose it would be alright if the solder blob is further down the wire, as long as it's not too close to the bulb itself. I'm not too sure about this bit though, but I'm guessing that this is why they usually crimp or spot-weld the wires together?
AND.... you've got to make sure the wires are connected with the correct polarity with the JYd / JYs DC bulbs - The end of the bulb with the screw thread and nut on is the positive connection.....
If you look at the lamp connector on the InFocus itself, the top hole on the connector should be a square, and the bottom hole should be round. The top / square should be the positive connection.
Please don't rely on this info 100% - If you want to be sure about the polarity, you can test the voltage of the lamp with a multimeter, but ONLY AFTER the lamp is already lit. If you have a multimeter connected when the lamp first ignites, your multimeter WILL be FRIED!! (yep, I tried this with an old MM to see what would happen, and it wasn't pretty).
Alternatively, if you open the InFocus and look inside, the pink wire to the lamp should be the positive connection.
(The bulb will probably light even if the connections are reversed, but this is obviously very bad for the bulb in the long term.)
**** I accept no responsibility for missing limbs and / or burnt-down houses !!!! ****
You will also need to align the new bulb in the reflector as accurately as you can compared to the original bulb and hold it in place somehow while the cement sets. I've still yet to find a decent way of doing this, hence the fact that I ruined one of my new bulbs. Just try not to get ANY cement or dirt or anything on the bulb part itself!!
Hope that helps.
OzOnE.
Beamer Lamp for Philips UGO X-Lite
Hello,
I need a Lamp for my Philips UGO X-Lite "LC 5141".
But I didn't know what typ of lamp i need...
It is 130 Watt UHPTM...that's all i know...
Need help....please.
Hier is a picture of it:
Hello,
I need a Lamp for my Philips UGO X-Lite "LC 5141".
But I didn't know what typ of lamp i need...
It is 130 Watt UHPTM...that's all i know...
Need help....please.
Hier is a picture of it:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks for all the info ozone!
Bad news on my end though, I connected the lamp to make sure
it fired alright before I went ahead and glued it in the reflector.
The bulb does not work or fire at ALL. I have 2 infocus projectors
that I believe are outputting something like 66.5 volts to the bulb.
The bulb didn't start, didn't blow up, didn't flicker.... NOTHING...
Bad news on my end though, I connected the lamp to make sure
it fired alright before I went ahead and glued it in the reflector.
The bulb does not work or fire at ALL. I have 2 infocus projectors
that I believe are outputting something like 66.5 volts to the bulb.
The bulb didn't start, didn't blow up, didn't flicker.... NOTHING...
Hi fuerio,
Are you sure the polarity is correct? ie. is the wire going to the square hole on the InFocus lamp connector joined to the "screw-thread end" of the new bulb? I was probably wrong about the bulb igniting even when the polarity was reversed, as I've never actually tried it with a DC bulb, so it was just an educated guess.
The fact that you can measure the 66V on the lamp connections doesn't necessarily mean that the ballast is creating the ignition pulses to start the lamp. The design of some ballasts may mean that the low voltage is present across the lamp at all times when the projector is on, but this is probably not the full current to run the bulb. So, when the projector needs to start the lamp, it ramps the "low voltage" current up to full power, then generates the ignition pulses to start the lamp.
If your original lamp was close to 3000 hours (or whatever the lamp timer limit is, which is dependant on the firmware version), then you might need to try resetting the lamp timer on the Infocus..... Just turn off the mains switch on the side of the PJ, then hold down both of the "volume up" and "volume down" buttons at the same time, then (while still holding the buttons down), turn the mains switch back on and keep holding the volume buttons for about 30 seconds to be sure the timer is reset.
Then again, it could be that a similar thing has happened to your new bulb as what happened with my bulb for the same projector? It was working fine for hours on the first day, but when I tried it the next morning, the bulb didn't start at all, and I noticed a crack in the actual bulb part (like a small end-to-end slice in the side of the bulb.)
Hi, King-vs-Kiwi !.....
It looks like you need a 130W JYd AC bulb for your Philips PJ. Again, please wait for ywh to confirm this, as I'm not 100% sure.
Are you sure the polarity is correct? ie. is the wire going to the square hole on the InFocus lamp connector joined to the "screw-thread end" of the new bulb? I was probably wrong about the bulb igniting even when the polarity was reversed, as I've never actually tried it with a DC bulb, so it was just an educated guess.
The fact that you can measure the 66V on the lamp connections doesn't necessarily mean that the ballast is creating the ignition pulses to start the lamp. The design of some ballasts may mean that the low voltage is present across the lamp at all times when the projector is on, but this is probably not the full current to run the bulb. So, when the projector needs to start the lamp, it ramps the "low voltage" current up to full power, then generates the ignition pulses to start the lamp.
If your original lamp was close to 3000 hours (or whatever the lamp timer limit is, which is dependant on the firmware version), then you might need to try resetting the lamp timer on the Infocus..... Just turn off the mains switch on the side of the PJ, then hold down both of the "volume up" and "volume down" buttons at the same time, then (while still holding the buttons down), turn the mains switch back on and keep holding the volume buttons for about 30 seconds to be sure the timer is reset.
Then again, it could be that a similar thing has happened to your new bulb as what happened with my bulb for the same projector? It was working fine for hours on the first day, but when I tried it the next morning, the bulb didn't start at all, and I noticed a crack in the actual bulb part (like a small end-to-end slice in the side of the bulb.)
Hi, King-vs-Kiwi !.....
It looks like you need a 130W JYd AC bulb for your Philips PJ. Again, please wait for ywh to confirm this, as I'm not 100% sure.
@fuerio...... I was just wondering, I zoomed in on the photo of your bulb, and I thought I could see something similar to what I noticed on my JYd bulb.
I've attached your photo, but I've highlighted the "crack" on the bulb in red - Is there actually a crack in your bulb in this sort of direction, or is it just a reflection? Or, is it meant to be there from the start?
OzOnE.
I've attached your photo, but I've highlighted the "crack" on the bulb in red - Is there actually a crack in your bulb in this sort of direction, or is it just a reflection? Or, is it meant to be there from the start?
OzOnE.
Attachments
I reset the time, I reversed the polarity and tried the bulb in both
of the projectors I have... That isn't a crack you see. There was
some sort of big imperfection in the bulb I don't know how to describe
it other than it looks like someone took a piece of sandpaper to some
of the bulb and it's scuffed up. In the end I'm not very happy I payed
for something that dosn't work out of the box.
of the projectors I have... That isn't a crack you see. There was
some sort of big imperfection in the bulb I don't know how to describe
it other than it looks like someone took a piece of sandpaper to some
of the bulb and it's scuffed up. In the end I'm not very happy I payed
for something that dosn't work out of the box.
Hi,
I'm very surprised the bulb never worked at all, but hopefully ywh might be able to sort something out for you. I'm pretty sure I broke my new bulb by getting the cement on it, then attempting to clean it off. It ran for a while, but stopped working the next day.
I'm still running the JYd AC bulb in my Sharp PG-M15X which is now up to around 40 hours, and it's been working perfectly so far.
Maybe there's a problem with using the DC bulbs on the Infocus ballasts, or maybe the arc gap is too wide on the new bulbs?
@ywh, I,ve been wondering - do all your bulbs have specifications for the voltages and currents? What is the voltage and current rating of the 150W JYd AC bulb?
OzOnE.
I'm very surprised the bulb never worked at all, but hopefully ywh might be able to sort something out for you. I'm pretty sure I broke my new bulb by getting the cement on it, then attempting to clean it off. It ran for a while, but stopped working the next day.
I'm still running the JYd AC bulb in my Sharp PG-M15X which is now up to around 40 hours, and it's been working perfectly so far.
Maybe there's a problem with using the DC bulbs on the Infocus ballasts, or maybe the arc gap is too wide on the new bulbs?
@ywh, I,ve been wondering - do all your bulbs have specifications for the voltages and currents? What is the voltage and current rating of the 150W JYd AC bulb?
OzOnE.
@fuerio
jeah you recieved something out of the box, not working at all bla bla ..
hey JYD lamps doesent run with every projector.....
BUT normaly every lamp is flickering or lighten short upr if you test it....
i think it your lampdriver....
DANGER YOU COULD GET A HAZARDOUS ELECTRONIC SHOCK!!!DANGER YOU COULD GET A HAZARDOUS ELECTRONIC SHOCK!!!DANGER YOU COULD GET A HAZARDOUS ELECTRONIC SHOCK!!!DANGER YOU COULD GET A HAZARDOUS ELECTRONIC SHOCK!!!DANGER YOU COULD GET A HAZARDOUS ELECTRONIC SHOCK!!!
Do not measure the cables during the start up!! there can be upt to 50000 Volts!!!
hey, please take a picture of your lapdriver and post it..
thanxxx
jeah you recieved something out of the box, not working at all bla bla ..
hey JYD lamps doesent run with every projector.....
BUT normaly every lamp is flickering or lighten short upr if you test it....
i think it your lampdriver....
DANGER YOU COULD GET A HAZARDOUS ELECTRONIC SHOCK!!!DANGER YOU COULD GET A HAZARDOUS ELECTRONIC SHOCK!!!DANGER YOU COULD GET A HAZARDOUS ELECTRONIC SHOCK!!!DANGER YOU COULD GET A HAZARDOUS ELECTRONIC SHOCK!!!DANGER YOU COULD GET A HAZARDOUS ELECTRONIC SHOCK!!!
Do not measure the cables during the start up!! there can be upt to 50000 Volts!!!
hey, please take a picture of your lapdriver and post it..
thanxxx
Hi victor-eyd
I am waiting for 18wheeler.
Hi fuerio
I think your ballast can not work, but you can send back the lamp to me, you lost some shipping only.
Hi King-vs-Kiwi
yes! OzOnE_2k3 is right, you need jyd/ac.
Hi chuckydown
I can not found these projector, do you have some INF of they?
I can not open this http://www.projectorcentral.com
how about you?
I am waiting for 18wheeler.
Hi fuerio
I think your ballast can not work, but you can send back the lamp to me, you lost some shipping only.
Hi King-vs-Kiwi
yes! OzOnE_2k3 is right, you need jyd/ac.
Hi chuckydown
I can not found these projector, do you have some INF of they?
I can not open this http://www.projectorcentral.com
how about you?
Hi, chuckydown.....
The Hitachi PJ-TX200 uses a 150W UHB lamp apparently.....
http://www.hitachidigitalmedia.com/DMG/viewProduct_1.jsp?productid=487&drilldown=2&urlnumber=0
It also says UHB in the manual, and I'm guessing that UHB is very similar to UHP, so you probably need a 150W JYd AC bulb.
By the Panasonic ea900, I think you mean the PT-EA900U / PT-AE900E. This projector uses a 130W UHM lamp according to the specs on projector central.....
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic_Home-PT-AE900U.htm
This is confirmed on the UK Panasonic site....
http://www.panasonic.co.uk/home-cinema-projectors/pt-ae900e/index.htm
Again, I think most lamps that say UHP, UHB, or UHM are very similar, and are always AC bulbs. You'd need a JYd type replacement (JYs bulbs are normally for older metal-halide based PJs). I'm no expert on this though, as you can tell!
So, you probably need 150W JYd AC for the Hitachi PJ-TX200....
and 130W JYd AC for the Panasonic PT-AE900. Please wait for ywh to confirm this though.
The Hitachi PJ-TX200 uses a 150W UHB lamp apparently.....
http://www.hitachidigitalmedia.com/DMG/viewProduct_1.jsp?productid=487&drilldown=2&urlnumber=0
It also says UHB in the manual, and I'm guessing that UHB is very similar to UHP, so you probably need a 150W JYd AC bulb.
By the Panasonic ea900, I think you mean the PT-EA900U / PT-AE900E. This projector uses a 130W UHM lamp according to the specs on projector central.....
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic_Home-PT-AE900U.htm
This is confirmed on the UK Panasonic site....
http://www.panasonic.co.uk/home-cinema-projectors/pt-ae900e/index.htm
Again, I think most lamps that say UHP, UHB, or UHM are very similar, and are always AC bulbs. You'd need a JYd type replacement (JYs bulbs are normally for older metal-halide based PJs). I'm no expert on this though, as you can tell!
So, you probably need 150W JYd AC for the Hitachi PJ-TX200....
and 130W JYd AC for the Panasonic PT-AE900. Please wait for ywh to confirm this though.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.