think OzOnE_2k3!
UHB and UHM are very similar, same as JYD/AC, but there are some risk if you replace UHB or UHM with JYD/AC.
I like to replace UHP, vip, and MHL.
Hi victor-eyd!
I have not heard from 18wheeler regarding payment, waite...
Hi Joepapa
yes!I don't have a 130w JYd/AC lamp, but 150w can replace it
UHB and UHM are very similar, same as JYD/AC, but there are some risk if you replace UHB or UHM with JYD/AC.
I like to replace UHP, vip, and MHL.
Hi victor-eyd!
I have not heard from 18wheeler regarding payment, waite...
Hi Joepapa
yes!I don't have a 130w JYd/AC lamp, but 150w can replace it
ywh,
I emailed 18wheeler for a response but has he been in contact with you? If not, I'll wait a few more days but I may have to consider a dispute with paypal if you receive no correspondence from 18wheeler. Also, if you really want more of us to commit to your products you should set up a paypal system directly.
Delays such as this can really restrict how much more business you can do in supplying your products.
Victor
I emailed 18wheeler for a response but has he been in contact with you? If not, I'll wait a few more days but I may have to consider a dispute with paypal if you receive no correspondence from 18wheeler. Also, if you really want more of us to commit to your products you should set up a paypal system directly.
Delays such as this can really restrict how much more business you can do in supplying your products.
Victor
I have made it 3/4's of the way through the post and spent the better part of a week looking for specs on the bulb i need but cannot find any.
i have an Infocus screenplay 5000
SP5000 Specs from Projector Central
also i found some close up pics from newegg that you can flip through.
Lamp Pics
i am told to replace with sp-lamp-017 but the lamp that came in my projector had 150/200w UHP written on it, and the specs do say 150w lamp so i guess the change to 170 is for long lamp life.
one last thing, I do have the bulb but trying to measure anything or check the electrodes would be tough because the bulb dropped and broke.
thank you
dan
i have an Infocus screenplay 5000
SP5000 Specs from Projector Central
also i found some close up pics from newegg that you can flip through.
Lamp Pics
i am told to replace with sp-lamp-017 but the lamp that came in my projector had 150/200w UHP written on it, and the specs do say 150w lamp so i guess the change to 170 is for long lamp life.
one last thing, I do have the bulb but trying to measure anything or check the electrodes would be tough because the bulb dropped and broke.
thank you
dan
I am sorry my link for the lamp pictures did not work, you can enlarge any picture to get a closer look.
Lamp Pictures
Lamp Pictures
lamp broken
YWH,
What is the policy of your company regarding bad bulbs? I took my Sharp for servicing and they only problem they see is that the bullb is bad. This is the 1st bulb I bought from you is from July 2006
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=957306#post957306
Victor
YWH,
What is the policy of your company regarding bad bulbs? I took my Sharp for servicing and they only problem they see is that the bullb is bad. This is the 1st bulb I bought from you is from July 2006
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=957306#post957306
Victor
Thanks YWH,
The lamp is the 150wAC jys
Here's the picture
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=957306#post957306
Victor
The lamp is the 150wAC jys
Here's the picture
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=957306#post957306
Victor
ywh,
Here are the pics you hopefully need. My digital is limited to closeup shots so here are the bulbs.
This first shot is the original sharp blown bulb.
This 2nd shot is the replacement bulb. It looks like there is a broken piece lying inside the bubble. There is a crack on the right side which I cause in trying to remove the bulb from the shell. Muffler mender is very difficult to remove.
Victor
Here are the pics you hopefully need. My digital is limited to closeup shots so here are the bulbs.
This first shot is the original sharp blown bulb.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This 2nd shot is the replacement bulb. It looks like there is a broken piece lying inside the bubble. There is a crack on the right side which I cause in trying to remove the bulb from the shell. Muffler mender is very difficult to remove.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Victor
Hi, victor-eyd....
This is just a guess, but I think your bulb may have failed because the muffler mender is too close to the globe part of the bulb...
I think that the cement / plaster stuff the manufacturers usually use is designed to expand and contract at a similar rate to the bulb as the bulb heats and cools. If you get ANY contaminants on or near the globe part, this can also cause the bulb to fail prematurely. I'm pretty sure this is what happened to my JYd DC bulb, which is the first ywh bulb I tried on an InFocus X1 and ended up with a crack down one side of the globe. (probably because I got some plaster on the globe part, and couldn't clean it off properly.)
You've also got muffler mender between the ignition wire and the bulb glass, so this might affect the working of the bulb somewhat?
I'm not sure what that "broken" bit is inside the bulb, but if it's stuck to the side of the globe, it's probably just part of the chemistry of the bulb. Some bulbs do have a silver blob stuck to the inside of the globe, which I think is a kind of catalyst for the arc process.
I am however successfully using a JYd AC bulb in my Sharp projector, and it seems to be working fine. There are quite a few things I learnt when trying to fit the new bulbs.... You should ALWAYS wait until the plaster has completely set before testing the bulb, and if you get any plaster too close to the globe, you might never be able to clean it off completely, and the bulb is likely to fail anyway.
Of course, aligning the new bulbs isn't quite as easy as I first thought either, but as long as you get a rough idea of where the original bulb was in relation to the reflector, you should still get a good amount of light from the lamp. The other problem I had is that the bulb was too long to fit into the lamp housing on the Sharp projector, so I had to resort to chopping off the end of the screw thread (AFTER the wire was already under the nut!!!!). This is NOT recommended though at all, and would most probably break your bulb anyway.
Also, I'm still trying to think of better methods of fitting the bulbs into the reflectors without the plaster running into the wrong places. What you'd really need is some kind of rubber gromet thing around the base of the new bulb (between the metal part and the reflector), then inject the plaster into the gap from the "front" of the reflector. You'd also need to cover the globe with something to protect it from getting any plaster on.
Both times I've bought bulbs from ywh, there were syringes of the plaster stuff used to fit the bulbs? It was very difficult to work with at first as it was too watery, so you have to let it set very slightly to be able to apply it to the lamp without it running all over the place. If it sets too much, you can add a single drop of water to the syringe, then mix it together and try again.
At first, I thought it would be possible to use pretty much anything to fit the bulbs with, but now I realize the only thing to really use is the plaster type stuff to have a chance of the bulb working for more than a few minutes / hours.
OzOnE.
This is just a guess, but I think your bulb may have failed because the muffler mender is too close to the globe part of the bulb...
I think that the cement / plaster stuff the manufacturers usually use is designed to expand and contract at a similar rate to the bulb as the bulb heats and cools. If you get ANY contaminants on or near the globe part, this can also cause the bulb to fail prematurely. I'm pretty sure this is what happened to my JYd DC bulb, which is the first ywh bulb I tried on an InFocus X1 and ended up with a crack down one side of the globe. (probably because I got some plaster on the globe part, and couldn't clean it off properly.)
You've also got muffler mender between the ignition wire and the bulb glass, so this might affect the working of the bulb somewhat?
I'm not sure what that "broken" bit is inside the bulb, but if it's stuck to the side of the globe, it's probably just part of the chemistry of the bulb. Some bulbs do have a silver blob stuck to the inside of the globe, which I think is a kind of catalyst for the arc process.
I am however successfully using a JYd AC bulb in my Sharp projector, and it seems to be working fine. There are quite a few things I learnt when trying to fit the new bulbs.... You should ALWAYS wait until the plaster has completely set before testing the bulb, and if you get any plaster too close to the globe, you might never be able to clean it off completely, and the bulb is likely to fail anyway.
Of course, aligning the new bulbs isn't quite as easy as I first thought either, but as long as you get a rough idea of where the original bulb was in relation to the reflector, you should still get a good amount of light from the lamp. The other problem I had is that the bulb was too long to fit into the lamp housing on the Sharp projector, so I had to resort to chopping off the end of the screw thread (AFTER the wire was already under the nut!!!!). This is NOT recommended though at all, and would most probably break your bulb anyway.
Also, I'm still trying to think of better methods of fitting the bulbs into the reflectors without the plaster running into the wrong places. What you'd really need is some kind of rubber gromet thing around the base of the new bulb (between the metal part and the reflector), then inject the plaster into the gap from the "front" of the reflector. You'd also need to cover the globe with something to protect it from getting any plaster on.
Both times I've bought bulbs from ywh, there were syringes of the plaster stuff used to fit the bulbs? It was very difficult to work with at first as it was too watery, so you have to let it set very slightly to be able to apply it to the lamp without it running all over the place. If it sets too much, you can add a single drop of water to the syringe, then mix it together and try again.
At first, I thought it would be possible to use pretty much anything to fit the bulbs with, but now I realize the only thing to really use is the plaster type stuff to have a chance of the bulb working for more than a few minutes / hours.
OzOnE.
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