• These commercial threads are for private transactions. diyAudio.com provides these forums for the convenience of our members, but makes no warranty nor assumes any responsibility. We do not vet any members, use of this facility is at your own risk. Customers can post any issues in those threads as long as it is done in a civil manner. All diyAudio rules about conduct apply and will be enforced.

GB Pass M2 Clone Boards with 120mm UMS spacing by Tea-Bag

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Jump to Latest
Tea-Bag

Tea-Bag

Member
Joined 2006
Paid Member
nicoch58 said:
HI Tea-Bag thanks ,will be better as in ZM post that means R4 to 5R or better put a trim pot P3 like ?
535991d1457340021t-official-m2-schematic-p3.jpg
Click to expand...

I would see eventually what the recommendation from the overall group is.
Unless one has distortion analysis hardware or software, I would imagine this difficult to tune by ear really. The board is certainly not setup to do this.
 
R

Russellc

Member
Joined 2003
Paid Member
Can hardly wait for M-2 parts. The M-2 I have already built performs better than expected...such a nice amp and beautifully simple design. Tea's boards are top notch, I can assure that everyone is really going to treasure this amp. The 4U case is perfect, getting the deluxe version makes assembly a snap, and lends a professional look, particularly with the added milled aluminum handles. Also highly recommend the matching "back panel parts kit" which includes high quality parts. I use this power cord for my builds, which is a real value.

The 'Sarah Lee" approach to Power Cords

Russellc
 
R

Russellc

Member
Joined 2003
Paid Member
Russellc said:
Can hardly wait for M-2 parts. The M-2 I have already built performs better than expected...such a nice amp and beautifully simple design. Tea's boards are top notch, I can assure that everyone is really going to treasure this amp. The 4U case is perfect, getting the deluxe version makes assembly a snap, and lends a professional look, particularly with the added milled aluminum handles. Also highly recommend the matching "back panel parts kit" which includes high quality parts. I use this power cord for my builds, which is a real value.

The 'Sarah Lee" approach to Power Cords

Russellc
Click to expand...

I might also add, that if you do not get the back panel kit, (unless I missed something) you will have to drill holes for your RCA input jacks, or create some kind of adapters. The holes in the case are cut for XLR jack mounting, and the back panel parts kit comes with RCAs mounted to an adapter that attaches to the rear panel just like a XLR jack does. You will also need chassis insulators, which normally come with female RCA jacks.

For wiring, I ordered several colors of 16 ga silver plated stranded copper wire with teflon insulation (mil-spec) from www.apexjr.com. As to input wire, Tea states that his amp initially had a wee bit of hum that switching to shielded wire solved. I am not sure if he floated the shield or not...I used two short lengths of Silver Sonic BL-2 interconnect cable which is also shielded, left the shield floating on both ends and my amp is dead quiet. My transformer is 500VA 18 + 18 volt Antek, not shielded. My Edcor transformers on the boards have no shielding either. This combo result is one quiet amp.

I dont know, if you are in a high RF area, maybe you need shielding, I think the commercial M-2 uses it. IIRCC, Tea said his still had the wee hum even with shielding on transformers, but that the shielded input wire killed it.

Russellc
 
Last edited:
D

Dennis Hui

Member
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Russellc said:
I might also add, that if you do not get the back panel kit, (unless I missed something) you will have to drill holes for your RCA input jacks, or create some kind of adapters. The holes in the case are cut for XLR jack mounting, and the back panel parts kit comes with RCAs mounted to an adapter that attaches to the rear panel just like a XLR jack does. You will also need chassis insulators, which normally come with female RCA jacks.
Click to expand...

If the holes are for Neutriks XLR jacks, then these RCAs should work:

Phono (RCA) Chassis Connectors - Neutrik

Cheers,
Dennis
 
brianco

brianco

Member
Joined 2005
The store is now offering pre-drilled and tapped heat sinks! (Just ordered mine), then the post arrived with boards, transformers & output devices!!! :cool:

Thank you Teabag...well packed, ultra fast to UK delivery and nice items. You have gone to a lot of trouble for us all. That is appreciated. :)
 
R

Russellc

Member
Joined 2003
Paid Member
Oh, and Tea bags, got my new set of boards, mosfets and transformers yesterday.:)
Thanks for your efforts!

My first one, chugging along (with your recommended Harris mosfet set and BOM parts) fine...one side is easy to zero out to 0 dc offset, other side about 2-3 mV before running out of pot twist....when bored to death one day, will change a resistor to make that side able to zero, but 2-3 mV is nothing.

Sound? Got to agree with Zenmod on this one...it is one sweet amp!

Russellc
 
Last edited:
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Top Bottom