When you mute with mute pin and power off, there is pop. Powerconsumption is about same as normal too. Output mosfets operate same as in idle/ no signal, there is output.
Mute with sdz pin and mosfets are switched off, no output produced, powerconsumption reduced, no pop when power is removed.
Mute with sdz pin and mosfets are switched off, no output produced, powerconsumption reduced, no pop when power is removed.
Hmm, interesting. TI datasheet suggested the outputs are off with the Mute pin pulled high, I am not sure if they literally implied a shutdown of the output mosfets then.
Are you currently using the SDZ pin then ?
well may be simpler, power off and mute goes low and pop will be heard because there is no mute, use sdz first to mute, pull it low, removing power keeps it low and pop has no chance LOL
ampboards without any pop I have use sdz first, used to be in datasheet, don't know what changed there if it changed. pop not really problem with other boards for me, except sure3116 maybe.
ampboards without any pop I have use sdz first, used to be in datasheet, don't know what changed there if it changed. pop not really problem with other boards for me, except sure3116 maybe.
The DUG board does have this C1 capacitor, both legs of which are tied to 100k resistors which then goes to v+ and gnd that charges up to pull both SDZ high and Mute low at turn on. There is no turn-on pop whatsoever.
I am going to tinker with the boards for the turn-off part (for curiosity really, not bothered by the weak pop), thanks for chiming in Gary!
I use a linear supply with 12 x 1800uF into a linear regulator.
I must discharge slow enough that I get only a small click/thump.
With a SMPS I definitely get a loud click/thump...distressingly loud.
I was thinking of a circuit something like this...on my list of things to try.
I must discharge slow enough that I get only a small click/thump.
With a SMPS I definitely get a loud click/thump...distressingly loud.
I was thinking of a circuit something like this...on my list of things to try.
Attachments
Finally got everything all cased up and it's working great! Absolutely no on/off pop, no heat build up without vent holes, "DACT type" 20k stepped attenuator is actually really nice. Sounding good and the bass is especially satisfying. Driving some DIY 6.5" 2-ways that I also put together yesterday. Mission accomplished.
BK
BK
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Finally my Mouser parts arrived and this is my overnight work.
20150924_231019_zpsdfq1ckqx.jpg Photo by snake69fast | Photobucket
Looking in the forum pages how to wire this I realized that I don't need the C5/R7 (and I didn't understand for what are them...
).
I saw balanced input and the normal one. Which one is recommended? I don't want to do something wrong now at the end of this adventure and ruin my work.
Thank you!
20150924_231019_zpsdfq1ckqx.jpg Photo by snake69fast | Photobucket
Looking in the forum pages how to wire this I realized that I don't need the C5/R7 (and I didn't understand for what are them...
).I saw balanced input and the normal one. Which one is recommended? I don't want to do something wrong now at the end of this adventure and ruin my work.
Thank you!
Attachments
You won't ruin work That is with psu connected where it is supposed to go
For input you can short middle J1 negative input to rightside J1 GND when source is single ended, just a little noisy if you don't, I guess
If you soldered tpa like that yourself I guess gainboard Marcus is also easy for you, looks good!
That is with psu connected where it is supposed to goFor input you can short middle J1 negative input to rightside J1 GND when source is single ended, just a little noisy if you don't, I guess
If you soldered tpa like that yourself I guess gainboard Marcus is also easy for you, looks good!
Remove the C5's.
The only inputs are the balanced ones using J1.
J2 is for any external control of mute.
J3 is for sync of the two chips...I don't use it and don't seem to notice any interaction between the two IC's.
Measure with an ohmmeter your bootstrap caps...I can't tell if there are any shorts underneath some of them.
Do not power up without a load...speakers or 4R-10R resistor. (J3)
You can power up without an input but the open inputs will pick up noise.
J4 is power.
Keep us posted.
The only inputs are the balanced ones using J1.
J2 is for any external control of mute.
J3 is for sync of the two chips...I don't use it and don't seem to notice any interaction between the two IC's.
Measure with an ohmmeter your bootstrap caps...I can't tell if there are any shorts underneath some of them.
Do not power up without a load...speakers or 4R-10R resistor. (J3)
You can power up without an input but the open inputs will pick up noise.
J4 is power.
Keep us posted.
Thank you!
Now is fixed.
It was one Coilcraft inductor with a de-soldered leg. I've already solder better all of them.
So full power now
Input is connected like iiribeo mentioned before "For input you can short middle J1 negative input to rightside J1 GND". I don't have yet a pre with balanced input/output. My DAC does have this but I need some volume control.
Now is fixed.
It was one Coilcraft inductor with a de-soldered leg. I've already solder better all of them.
So full power now
Input is connected like iiribeo mentioned before "For input you can short middle J1 negative input to rightside J1 GND". I don't have yet a pre with balanced input/output. My DAC does have this but I need some volume control.
Last edited:
You won't ruin work
For input you can short middle J1 negative input to rightside J1 GND when source is single ended, just a little noisy if you don't, I guess
If you soldered tpa like that yourself I guess gainboard Marcus is also easy for you, looks good!
Thank you irribeo. I've spend almost the whole night to solder the board. And in the end I have became tired but smart and let the IC to be soldered in the day time by a friend. He can be my back-up for Marcus gainboard if it will be impossible for me
But I'll do my best to do it alone.
Just not sure of the value used...my early BOM's had a value too high...better to remove.
My DUG boards became my favorite TPA3116D2 build.
It is a perfect fit for my system. What a joy to listen again the music...
Thank you DUG for all your work!
Major differences from the BOM:
C6,C7 - EKZH350ELL222ML25S UCC 35Volts 2200uF
C8, C11 - UMK325AB7106KM-T Taiyo Yuden 1210 X7R 50V 10uF 10%
C9, C10 - CGA5L1C0G2A104J160AC TDK 0.1uF 100volts C0G +/-5% 1.60
From the inductors option list I have:
Coilcraft SER2915L-103KL
Second in my list is the Sure with mods.
Third place is YBDZ and Audiobah YJ clone both of them modded.
From all the boards I didn't listen yet the dual chip board and the SMAKN.
It is a perfect fit for my system. What a joy to listen again the music...
Thank you DUG for all your work!
Major differences from the BOM:
C6,C7 - EKZH350ELL222ML25S UCC 35Volts 2200uF
C8, C11 - UMK325AB7106KM-T Taiyo Yuden 1210 X7R 50V 10uF 10%
C9, C10 - CGA5L1C0G2A104J160AC TDK 0.1uF 100volts C0G +/-5% 1.60
From the inductors option list I have:
Coilcraft SER2915L-103KL
Second in my list is the Sure with mods.
Third place is YBDZ and Audiobah YJ clone both of them modded.
From all the boards I didn't listen yet the dual chip board and the SMAKN.
OK I've made some free time to try the dual chip board. It sound very good (unmoded) for the price but it is in the same league with some other nice Chinese TPA3116D2 boards. I'll try to change later the inductors on the Sure board and on this dual chip in order to achieve some improvements. For my system the DUG PBTL boards are the only ones with that chip that brings "something" to audition.
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.