We have not yet built an A10p Mar-Ken. Bernie has that in hand. There is little doubt that the FHXL takes the A10.x the lowest (except probably SIlbury).It likely has a bit higher diffraction signature than the Mar-Ken.
Getting the holey brace in a Mar-Ken just right is a fiddly process, but helped by the not very squishy A10 gasket.
I am not familiar with the amp you mention?
dave
Getting the holey brace in a Mar-Ken just right is a fiddly process, but helped by the not very squishy A10 gasket.
I am not familiar with the amp you mention?
dave
Here's the start of the thread on that amp:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...gh-perfromance-lpuhp-16w-power-amplifier.html
I know that Ed ("special ed" ) was in on the original group buy for the amps, so he may have specific experience with it driving some of these speakers.
In comparing the FHXL and the Mar-Ken, I seem to remember about the Mar-Ken throwing a slightly more defined soundstage, but I've read through so many posts that it's a bit of a blur.
So with the back brace, if I figure in just moderate pressure against the speaker magnet housing that will be fine? Probably when I have the speakers in hand, and can get a direct sense of the structure this will be a non-issue.
Thanks for such a speedy reply!
Is there a good "rule of thumb" for in-cabinet cable sizing? One 24awg wire per polarity is tiny. But if it's ok or even better than 4 Wires, I'm ready to open the damn FH
I have the same question
In network cable we have 4 pairs of winded single solid core copper cable.
For me to understand: should I use a single (say) orange for positive and orange/white for negative connection? or a pair of orange/orange-white for + and blue/blue-white for - ???
Thanks
well finally finished the build, camera has given up the ghost, cant get pictures to load onto photo bucket, so these are from my ipad and not great quality, im messing about with the bases with various thicknesses and once im happy will make some and paint satin black.
I have veneered these with American black walnut, after I primed with 4 coats of 2 pack hi build primer then sanded perfectly flat before veneering. 1st time veneering a box so well chuffed with results, dyed a bit darker then Danish oiled, still a couple of coats to do. have about 150 hours on them and removed the stuffing from front baffle chamber and these sound stunning, thanks to Dave and everyone else for advise and support.
this is the primer state,
and as they are today.
I have veneered these with American black walnut, after I primed with 4 coats of 2 pack hi build primer then sanded perfectly flat before veneering. 1st time veneering a box so well chuffed with results, dyed a bit darker then Danish oiled, still a couple of coats to do. have about 150 hours on them and removed the stuffing from front baffle chamber and these sound stunning, thanks to Dave and everyone else for advise and support.
this is the primer state,
and as they are today.
Yeah, I have two free SPL apps on my phone. They disagree by about 10db, but even in the worst case, I generally listen around 70db or less. Even when I want to be loud, 80db starts to feel kinda like a bit much. (And given the obvious lack of precision of my "meter", I could in fact be listening much lower.)
It always amazes me to see people with their in-ear monitors cranked so loud that I can make out the song from 10 feet away. It's got to be ludicrously loud for them; how is it not actually painful?
At any rate, I took those measurements on my desktop/nearfield setup. I wasn't (and still am not) completely sure what effect both the distance to speaker and overall volume of the room have on music volume.
For example, say I have a square room, 10x10, with 8 foot ceilings. I put speakers in the corners of one wall, and toe them in to imply a triangle. My chair sits at the "tip" of this triangle, against the opposite wall.
From there, let's say I magically change the room, doubling the length of each wall, and increase the ceiling height by two feet (now 20x20x10). But I leave the speakers and chairs in the exact same spot, and also leave the music volume setting the same.
In these two scenarios, will I perceive a difference in (sound) volume? Surly, if nothing else, I'll perceive a change in the character of the sound... which may in turn affect my perception of loudness?
What if I extend the walls and ceiling infinitely, ie listen outdoors in a huge field (but still preserving the original triangle setup)?
Yes, you would have a difference; the in-room power response will change somewhat. Especially for speakers which use room boundaries, like corner-horns & 1/4 space horns. Of course, in practice furnishings and the physical construction materials of the room have a major impact on behaviour as well as the dimensions. Rooms are probably the major pain in the entire reproduction chain since they vary so much. DSP / correction can help to a point (but only to a point), and fortunately what with our falling hearing acuity as frequency drops, our brains tend to filter out some of the issues, although if there's a big peak / peaks etc. then you have more of a problem. Nulls are usually more benign. Usually.
and DSP room correction will only be effective for the point at which the microphone is sited - depending on circumstances you could probably notice huge variations in a matter of inches away from that point
matt -not only will those in-ear buds or Monster / DR Dre cans that you can hear from 3 meters away be painfully loud for the wearer, but I can't imagine that they don't accelerate permanent hearing damage .
I don't believe the researchers labouring away have yet perfected safe and reliable regeneration techniques for stereocilia hair cells - nor have cochlear implants attained "audiophile" status, so for now I think we should assume that loss / tinnitus is permanent - it certainly diminishes clarity of perception and enjoyment.
Of course every change that you make in the acoustic properties of the environ in which you listen to live or reproduced music will affect the perceived volume, tonal balance and sense of "soundstage"at any given point. I'd imagine an infinitely boundless and anechoic environment would sound very thin and lifeless.
matt -not only will those in-ear buds or Monster / DR Dre cans that you can hear from 3 meters away be painfully loud for the wearer, but I can't imagine that they don't accelerate permanent hearing damage .
I don't believe the researchers labouring away have yet perfected safe and reliable regeneration techniques for stereocilia hair cells - nor have cochlear implants attained "audiophile" status, so for now I think we should assume that loss / tinnitus is permanent - it certainly diminishes clarity of perception and enjoyment.
Of course every change that you make in the acoustic properties of the environ in which you listen to live or reproduced music will affect the perceived volume, tonal balance and sense of "soundstage"at any given point. I'd imagine an infinitely boundless and anechoic environment would sound very thin and lifeless.
I have today ordered a pair of Alpair 10.3 in Gold and they shall be with me tomorrow morning!
Very excited to start the build. I shall start a separate build thread soon.
I just need to know what address I need to make my donation to?
I already have a set of drawings that I was sent to quote CNC machining for someone who has paid for the plans, but I haven't paid for them for my own use so obviously I need to.
The drawings I have are dated 15th July 2014. Are these current and dimensionally correct? I hope so as I programmed them to machine already haha
Very excited to start the build. I shall start a separate build thread soon.
I just need to know what address I need to make my donation to?
I already have a set of drawings that I was sent to quote CNC machining for someone who has paid for the plans, but I haven't paid for them for my own use so obviously I need to.
The drawings I have are dated 15th July 2014. Are these current and dimensionally correct? I hope so as I programmed them to machine already haha
That was me Karl, I couldnt afford the cnc and post in the end so made myself. We did ask permission from Dave for you to cnc for me and he was fine with it as I had paid for the plans and you confirmed this was not a commercial ventureI have today ordered a pair of Alpair 10.3 in Gold and they shall be with me tomorrow morning!
Very excited to start the build. I shall start a separate build thread soon.
I just need to know what address I need to make my donation to?
I already have a set of drawings that I was sent to quote CNC machining for someone who has paid for the plans, but I haven't paid for them for my own use so obviously I need to.
The drawings I have are dated 15th July 2014. Are these current and dimensionally correct? I hope so as I programmed them to machine already haha
I can't remember how much they were as I don't do the quoting but I remember they weren't amazingly cheap. The birch ply is quite dear and I think the shipping worked out to be horrendous. It's a shame, but you have done a cracking job on them anyway!
Don't be surprised when what arrives is copper. There have been no gold coned Alpairs since Gen 1.
dave