Baltic ply? check
Drivers 10.3 check
Cat 5 cable check
W/nut veneer check
Pillow Stuffing check
DIY FH badges check
Stainless speaker teminal plate check
All i require now is advise on glue, was going to use evo stick wood glue. Is this ok?
I've never used evo stick wood glue, so I can't comment about it. I use Titebond wood glue. I've never had an issue with it and would recommend it to anyone asking.
Mike
For insane strength you could try the titebond3 or gorilla glue, I've used both and they set so hard that the wood will tear apart before the glued joint separates.
But for the set I'm making at the moment, im just using normal PVA wood glue, and I haven't the slightest worry that it's more than up to the job.
Best wishes for your build.
But for the set I'm making at the moment, im just using normal PVA wood glue, and I haven't the slightest worry that it's more than up to the job.
Best wishes for your build.
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If you are going to use TiteBond, I recommend TiteBond II. It sets faster than I, 1/2hr clamp time. The other side of that is it has only a 5min open time and 5min closed time. TiteBond II is far and away best for iron-on veneering, so I buy the stuff by the gallon and just use it for construction since it is there.
If I need a long open/closed time, I use Locktite PL Premium 3X urethane construction adhesive. Also good when gap sealing is required. Down side: I observe a 12hr clamp time.
Bob
If I need a long open/closed time, I use Locktite PL Premium 3X urethane construction adhesive. Also good when gap sealing is required. Down side: I observe a 12hr clamp time.
Bob
+1 Titebond II is my preferred PVA for general speaker building. Despite it being sold as the latest and greatest, Titebond III is less reliable and more difficult to work with, and IMHO is really only useful if the speakers are going to be outside on the patio. Just to round out this mini review, Titebond I works best for guitars. It dries hard and not flexible.
Loctite PL totally rocks for when something like that is needed. Also works good for installing ceiling acoustic tiles.
LOL....a FH3 in XL form? Was searching for Alpair 10.3 and this thread popped up.
Anyone have the pros/cons of the FH3 vs this extra large version? (did a search on FH3 on this thread and saw two mentions but no comparo.) I imagine more bass extension - how much more? And perhaps a bit less speed and upper frequency extension?
Curious.
Thanks!
UL
Anyone have the pros/cons of the FH3 vs this extra large version? (did a search on FH3 on this thread and saw two mentions but no comparo.) I imagine more bass extension - how much more? And perhaps a bit less speed and upper frequency extension?
Curious.
Thanks!
UL
I have both the FH3 with 7.3 drivers and XL with 10.3. In my opinion the XL is a more balanced speaker with strong bass. There are differences between the 10.3 and the 7.3 drivers to take into account. I do prefer the 7.3 for its detailed mids and highs but its power handling in the FH3 is lacking. I now use the 7.3 in a 2-way OB system and, relieved of its lower frequency duties, its stunning .
Between the FH3 and XL with MA drivers I prefer the XL on balance.
looing good, few questions if i may.
1, Are you going to put a base plinth on these or spikes?, when i did open baffles before the bass was so low it rattlesed the room like crazy, but when i decoulpled from floor with 1" spikes these were fantastic with good tight deep base and no room interactions.
2, i am starting mine this week if work allows, and i too will be veneering these. if veneering what will you use to cut the access veneer from around the driver opening, i can get a palm router for the edges but wondered if theat can be used with the opening as there is a step with the rebate so the cutter may not sit flush as i hits the rebated step.
3, How much stuffing did you use in the box and what material did you go for around the upper box on top sides and behind the driver?
cheers
ron
Ah! ok i got them made correctly then, didn't want to pop on the speakers, show you guys then some smart as say " oh by the way thats not how you spell it" LOL!
cheers
1. I will probably try a base of some sort in the future. At the moment there is no rattling/buzzing in the room at all.
2. I have never done veneering before, so I am not sure how I will cutting it. I am just starting at woodworking, so this is all a great learning process.
3. I used the recommended 1/2" felt for the driver area. I also used the recommended 40g and 80g of the stuffing, but have removed 20g from the front to add a touch more bottom end. Very happy with that at the moment.
I purchased a yard of a fishnet type material from Wal-mart for a dollar, and cut out 1 foot squares. Hot glued them about a foot from the bottom of the cabinet to hold the front stuffing in place.
mm
well have them made and running with my 300b amp, ( pictures will follow) they are sounding rather good, i have run these in on low vol in air but havent got them opened up to much, in the boxes they do sound very good, very smooth and the bass is warm and deep enough. The treble is less than i expected with this improve over time or does the stuffing in the front section effect the trble, i have stuffing in but may remove after a week and see what that does. very impressed, to be honest these ly between the audionote E's i had and my old Living voice avatar II's which is high praise, if they get better im going to be happy, glad they are not shouty like the open baffles were, they do portray vocals very well indeed.
is a tweeter ( or DIY super tweeter) advisable?