We don't need no stinking tweeters.
Speaking for myself my ears quit at about 12k, so I don't. Wait till they're all broken in (seriously, Mark sez 800 hours, I think he's right), Then do fine tuning with fluff & stuff and think about tweeters (or not).
Most of all, enjoy the tunes.
Just a thought Alan lol!
I really like these can't wait to get some serious listening, bit difficult at the mo with long work hours and daughter and grandson moving back home so not much chance of getting that in.
You got it. Full range does one thing just right... coherence. Do you realize the trouble those multi-way builders go to to get frequency response, phase, timing and all that correct? (I'm learning about it... very slowly).
They're your speakers and they have to please your ears, so do as you will; but give them a chance to show you their best before messing with a good thing.
Do you have a little class d amp? Just run them 24-7 till they're broken in.
I know Alan its all about running in, loving these so far! i do have a T amp its waht i used to get about 200 hours on these in open air while i was making the boxes, that was on low vol and gently increased to higher ( Still low) vol. I have been getting the drivers move a lot more when in the boxes but still around the 2mm x max mark. how loud can you push when running in? im quite nervous about going loud. ( i dont really listen to rock per say but i do like things at a decent level) Thanks
Mark has spelled out the break in procedure. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/248199-driver-break-questions-2.html#post3760888 If you have 200 hours, you can start exercising them... moderately.
Seriously considering building a set of these.
Am I going to be able to enjoy listening to the likes of Boards of Canada, The Mars Volta, Bjork, Lissie through speakers like this though?
I generally listen at volumes you could have a conversation over if you raised your voice a little. So I don't blast it really.
Am I going to be able to enjoy listening to the likes of Boards of Canada, The Mars Volta, Bjork, Lissie through speakers like this though?
I generally listen at volumes you could have a conversation over if you raised your voice a little. So I don't blast it really.
14' square.
Currently I use Epos M12i stand mounts and they deliver enough volume and bass weight for me. I want try something new that can get me closer to the details without having to crank the volume. I live in a centre terrace so it's not very cool if I start pumping tunes out loud. Headphones would probably be an appropriate solution but I just don't enjoy them enough.
Keep in mind that A1-p will be capable of a bit more level (same power handling, higher sensitivity). It is 6 of one, a half-dozen of the other in overall quality, i pesonally have a slight preference for the paper, and it is likely a bit more forgiving of less than stellar recordings.
dave
dave
I have my pair working and finished, they have around 20-30 hours on them and are running in nicely.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5m...ew?usp=sharing
I have gone for a gloss finish on this pair. My previous speakers in this system were KEF Reference 103/4 and TDL studio 1 (which are transmission lines).
They seem to do everything well, separation, detail, dynamics are amazing and better than my previous speakers. They do go deeper than my TDL Studio speakers did. Placement of instruments and performers is very precise.
Thanks to Dave and Scott for an excellent design
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5m...ew?usp=sharing
I have gone for a gloss finish on this pair. My previous speakers in this system were KEF Reference 103/4 and TDL studio 1 (which are transmission lines).
They seem to do everything well, separation, detail, dynamics are amazing and better than my previous speakers. They do go deeper than my TDL Studio speakers did. Placement of instruments and performers is very precise.
Thanks to Dave and Scott for an excellent design
My room is 15' x 15' x 8' high, not a good shape for hi fi but it has sounded great with most speakers i have owned, my XL's are about 4" from the rear wall and about 3' from the corners with a toe in. Fills the room no bother and im still running in so no loud vol yet. Not heard a bad sound from these at all. no matter what the music genre. I removed the stuffing i had in the front chamber as these were too warm sounding and the treble was rolled off quite a bit. this has made a big difference to the sound. great speakers for the little spend.
when run in how are these at a good vol?
If they are Gen3 they will have an arrestor so you are unlikely to damage them by overdriving. Go turn them up and hear for yourself!
Stunning in my opinion but hear for yourself.
Sorry Dave, the link didn't copy over properly the firs time. Try this:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5mNigTsST6ZbXhSc1RNVVQwdFk/view?pli=1
At the minute I am using a QED A270 integrated (1980's, the cable company also made electronics for quite a while), ultimately amplification will be Paradise phono, DCB1 and HackerNAP (Naim/NCC 200 with quite a few mods, including Sulzer regs on the voltage stage).
If anyone wants a listen that lives not far from Sheffield let me know. These are very classy high-end speakers and an order of magnitude better than the high-end retail speakers I was using before.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5mNigTsST6ZbXhSc1RNVVQwdFk/view?pli=1
At the minute I am using a QED A270 integrated (1980's, the cable company also made electronics for quite a while), ultimately amplification will be Paradise phono, DCB1 and HackerNAP (Naim/NCC 200 with quite a few mods, including Sulzer regs on the voltage stage).
If anyone wants a listen that lives not far from Sheffield let me know. These are very classy high-end speakers and an order of magnitude better than the high-end retail speakers I was using before.
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no pictures of the XL/s tey as i need a new usb lead for my camera but as a taster this was my last 2 DIY builds.
audionote kit 1 finished in piano black ( spray painted and polished by me) home made stands made with 2" heavy wall pipe bent and powder painted in dark chrome and filled with silicone sealer to stop any ringing, then bolted to granite chopping boards.
these bastanis based open baffles with a 36mm baltic bitch ply baffle faced with real walnut veneer then machined around the edges and driver with a big champher to show the ply grain.
I loved these speakers but the AN-e's i found way to warm and deep for me and the room buzzed along with them, the open baffles were the very best mids i have ever heard i used a beringer inuke 200w amp with DSP for the bass duties and crossed over at 200hz then the widebands did the rest driven with SE tube amps. A bit shouty when pushed loud but wonderful all the same.
must admit though these FH XL's are way easier to build, and sound better that both above and im still running them in so cant wait for the next 200 hous and see what that brings but i could easily live with these as is right now. POP pictures up soon.
Ron
audionote kit 1 finished in piano black ( spray painted and polished by me) home made stands made with 2" heavy wall pipe bent and powder painted in dark chrome and filled with silicone sealer to stop any ringing, then bolted to granite chopping boards.
these bastanis based open baffles with a 36mm baltic bitch ply baffle faced with real walnut veneer then machined around the edges and driver with a big champher to show the ply grain.
I loved these speakers but the AN-e's i found way to warm and deep for me and the room buzzed along with them, the open baffles were the very best mids i have ever heard i used a beringer inuke 200w amp with DSP for the bass duties and crossed over at 200hz then the widebands did the rest driven with SE tube amps. A bit shouty when pushed loud but wonderful all the same.
must admit though these FH XL's are way easier to build, and sound better that both above and im still running them in so cant wait for the next 200 hous and see what that brings but i could easily live with these as is right now. POP pictures up soon.
Ron
I've read this thread and several of the other threads on these speakers. I've pretty much decided on the 10p-eNs, and have several questions. I'll be building the LP wire amps to drive them. My room is ~14x18x9.5, but is also fairly open on two sides. I'm currently running a DIY loosely based on watt/puppies (built in 89 I think), but have built the wire headphone variants, and really want to base a system on Owen's LP amp. Typically don't keep average volumes over 85db, and generally less that that. I value neutrality, coherence, macro-dynamics, and accurate soundstage. One of my favorite set ups was first watts running Lowthers, (good friend's), and in looking at full range drivers, came across the Mark Audio ones. I'm a prototype machinist, have the tools to pretty much build whatever I want, and would most likely use PlyBoo for the casework. So, here goes:
1. FHXL, marKen, and also the jaguar designs look very viable to me. I do like the MarKen form factor best, but would like a sense of where each betters the others, so I can figure out just what compromises I'd be most happy with. I've come to value the really low frequency sense of the original venue in helping with soundstage, but would plan (at least initially) to avoid sub woofers.
2. The mounting ring has a built in soft seal behind it--how do you plan the compression of this so that the rear brace is the correct tightness against the magnet structure? It looks like the idea is to couple the magnet to the rear wall, but will too much pressure against the structure create problems?
3. If I understand correctly, the enhanced drivers go through a starting process of 200 hours light break in before getting matched-- this seems like it would count as break in for the guidelines that Mark has laid out, is this correct?
I love this initial phase of new projects, the sorting out of everything. Thanks in advance!
1. FHXL, marKen, and also the jaguar designs look very viable to me. I do like the MarKen form factor best, but would like a sense of where each betters the others, so I can figure out just what compromises I'd be most happy with. I've come to value the really low frequency sense of the original venue in helping with soundstage, but would plan (at least initially) to avoid sub woofers.
2. The mounting ring has a built in soft seal behind it--how do you plan the compression of this so that the rear brace is the correct tightness against the magnet structure? It looks like the idea is to couple the magnet to the rear wall, but will too much pressure against the structure create problems?
3. If I understand correctly, the enhanced drivers go through a starting process of 200 hours light break in before getting matched-- this seems like it would count as break in for the guidelines that Mark has laid out, is this correct?
I love this initial phase of new projects, the sorting out of everything. Thanks in advance!
