Hi Fran
I can't tell from the photo - Is that the original crystal you have used or another type?
I can't tell from the photo - Is that the original crystal you have used or another type?
I've been doing some experimenting with the shiga today. Having put in the reclocking circuit, I found that it was better in almost every way EXCEPT that it was now a bit bright. If you had a sibilant recording, it was doubly so now. Now this is something that I am fairly sensitive to (as are my fostex horns), so I had to do something. The problem was that the sound in every other way was better: better 3D soundstage, much improved bass, separation, timing and so on.
So then I remembered C906. Remember that cap - the original was a cheapo electrolytic. There was a string of posts about it back up the thread. Anyway I had put in a socket so that I could try out different caps at the time. I didn't search, but I seemed to remember the consensus was that film caps gave a bit more crisp sound, and the original electrolytic was warmer sounding. I had an ero film cap in mine. So I thought, maybe now is a good time to experiment with this cap again.
So I tried back in the electrolytic, and while the sound did warm up a little and the sibialnce went down, I lost some of that 3D dimensionality. I put back in the ero and had it back again the way it was. So I tried a 3rd cap, again a film one, a pull from something or other. Anyway this one seems like a good compromise, keeping the improved souindstage etc, but losing a bit of the brightness.
I would be very interested in others opinions on this. If you can, fit a pair of sockets for C906. Be careful removing it from the board - this is one cap you definitely do not want to lose. Carefully keep it to one side so you can slip it back in if needed.
I don't think the value is too critical, I know the ero is very low value, it could be 0.1uF, the other film cap is 0.22uf, the original a bit higher.
It seems to me (from memory) that as the reclocking has improved the sound, there is more change in C906 than the first time around. Its well worth experimenting with doing the reclocking in conjunction with C906.
EDIT: see the posts here, or search this thread for C906: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-212.html#post1637071
Fran
So then I remembered C906. Remember that cap - the original was a cheapo electrolytic. There was a string of posts about it back up the thread. Anyway I had put in a socket so that I could try out different caps at the time. I didn't search, but I seemed to remember the consensus was that film caps gave a bit more crisp sound, and the original electrolytic was warmer sounding. I had an ero film cap in mine. So I thought, maybe now is a good time to experiment with this cap again.
So I tried back in the electrolytic, and while the sound did warm up a little and the sibialnce went down, I lost some of that 3D dimensionality. I put back in the ero and had it back again the way it was. So I tried a 3rd cap, again a film one, a pull from something or other. Anyway this one seems like a good compromise, keeping the improved souindstage etc, but losing a bit of the brightness.
I would be very interested in others opinions on this. If you can, fit a pair of sockets for C906. Be careful removing it from the board - this is one cap you definitely do not want to lose. Carefully keep it to one side so you can slip it back in if needed.
I don't think the value is too critical, I know the ero is very low value, it could be 0.1uF, the other film cap is 0.22uf, the original a bit higher.
It seems to me (from memory) that as the reclocking has improved the sound, there is more change in C906 than the first time around. Its well worth experimenting with doing the reclocking in conjunction with C906.
EDIT: see the posts here, or search this thread for C906: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-212.html#post1637071
Fran
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I've put in the reclocking, but using what was available in my local Maplins: A 74LS74 and a 74HC14.
I'm getting a slightly more expansive sound plus a bit more brightness, as others have found.
However the result still doesn't equal the sound I'm getting from my QA-550 WAV player, using I2S direct into a TDA1543 dac. It's a pity that we can't get I2S out of the shigaclone.
Perhaps I need to try again, using the recommended ICs.
I'm getting a slightly more expansive sound plus a bit more brightness, as others have found.
However the result still doesn't equal the sound I'm getting from my QA-550 WAV player, using I2S direct into a TDA1543 dac. It's a pity that we can't get I2S out of the shigaclone.
Perhaps I need to try again, using the recommended ICs.
No need Fran here I am
I just picked up the last 5 pages and indeed a lot going on again....
I myself recently ended the building of a monster NOS DAC so to speak to match The PitBull together with Anton we think we made something that has found his match (I did post the pic somewhere on this thread).
The PitBull is still going strong at an average of 3 hours an evening eversince.
I do not know what you wanted to ask, but I myself use a Translite AT&T cable from the PitBull towards a Genesis Digital Lens and after clocking and buffering the signal goes straight into my Dac...remember
Even with The Lens it proved still very wortwhile for me to use an aftermarket clock with dedicated powersupply on the Shiga...
As Cap C906 I use a wondercap from way back....
.Hoped to be of any help...
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Good to read...I myself( different to Peter's experience) do encourage people to experiment with aftermarket clocks and dedicated power supplies as you have read in the past...
But again that is the advantage of using a forum...lots of people experimenting and taking it to a higher level for themselves ...be it with a naked version or a "monster".
.....you have a choice 
Since the choke is removed, you need to connect wires to the other pair of pads, see here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/160373-cd-transport.html#post2068918
Who tried this one? Was it any good or is the original magnetic clamp better? I can't find that post anymore.. 
Does anyone know how that is attached to the shaft?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Does anyone know how that is attached to the shaft?
Who tried this one? Was it any good or is the original magnetic clamp better? I can't find that post anymore..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Does anyone know how that is attached to the shaft?
You will need a motor with a longer shaft..
Attachments
Just completed the re-clock mod.
I am also testing it with the output passing through the spare three inverters in parallel to boost the output.
I am also testing it from pin 8 as used by the TL0..
It will need a few days of listening and I have a switch to select between the different outputs.
I am also testing it with the output passing through the spare three inverters in parallel to boost the output.
I am also testing it from pin 8 as used by the TL0..
It will need a few days of listening and I have a switch to select between the different outputs.
Attachments
Hmm.. It doesn't look that much longer? And the motor type is exactly the same. Is those "clamps" just press fitted or clued also?
Does anyone have a clue how that LCD is connected? There are only 6 segment outputs so it surely isn't connected like normal 7-segment, but 6x3=18 is enough for 2x7 + those 4 indicators.. I was thinking to replace it with "something" else.