The door switch is used to read table of content (TOC). It needs to be permanently shorted and opens only to read TOC. You can do without it, but the number of tracks won't match when you change CD. Of course TOC resets itself each time you power on the unit.
This is how you remove the shaft: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ransport-shigaclone-story-84.html#post1580109
I think there is some glue there too.
Nice, thanks.. Non-magnetic would be nice, but I'm not sure if that 'ball bearing thingy' is the way to go.
Just wondering, can mechanics/mounting/chassis be too stiff/rigid if mounting CD mechanism with 2 bolt like suggested here? Is there overkill in this (that kills the sound)? I have >12kg of copper to start.. and enough lead and sand.
Having a screw on clamp is nice, but this is not critical to the sound of the transport, it certainly provides some improvement but there are so many other, more efficient, ways to improve it as well.
One way to try how much elimination of magnetic clamp improves the sound is mounting CD without it, using only a piece of paper to secure it: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...transport-shigaclone-story-9.html#post1477918
One way to try how much elimination of magnetic clamp improves the sound is mounting CD without it, using only a piece of paper to secure it: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...transport-shigaclone-story-9.html#post1477918
Just wondering, can mechanics/mounting/chassis be too stiff/rigid if mounting CD mechanism with 2 bolt like suggested here? Is there overkill in this (that kills the sound)? I have >12kg of copper to start.. and enough lead and sand.
If you are asking if it can be overbuilt, I'd say yes. I've built this chassis: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...d-transport-shigaclone-story.html#post1468060 attaching mechanism's frame and motors directly and it sounded rather disappointing.
That's why I asked.. but what if it's mounted only with two standoffs? Would that be ok, no matter how stiff rest of the chassis is?
Totally caught up now... (still catching my breath!)
I like the last bit, (that I would have missed) re the external clock... (Note I barely understand all the lingo etc. but I'm usually a fast learner.)
I have some other unrelated issues that I will start other posts on.
Mr. Peter Daniel: You sir have started a revolution here! Excellent work by everyone all around. Some amazingly creative enclosures and amazing work with materials. And on a GLOBAL scale. Truly amazing...
I like the last bit, (that I would have missed) re the external clock... (Note I barely understand all the lingo etc. but I'm usually a fast learner.)
I have some other unrelated issues that I will start other posts on.
Mr. Peter Daniel: You sir have started a revolution here! Excellent work by everyone all around. Some amazingly creative enclosures and amazing work with materials. And on a GLOBAL scale. Truly amazing...
I use a single standoff. I made some tests in the past with 4-3-2-1 standoffs and a single one was clearly the best in my stiff wooden enclosure, but you have to try with your specific enclosure. To avoid frame bending I use other two standoffs with one nut and a washer as stops. In normal condition the frame doesn't touch the washer.
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I'm sorry I don't remember. I'll try next week.
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Frames?
I contacted Kathy and Jim Sawada Wood Art Toronto, Canada about putting together a wooden frame for the shigaclone. ( I don't have the patiences or tools to do much woodworking.)
I'll hopefully get a price soon. I've also asked for quantity discounts...
If anyone is interested, I'll setup a group buy for it.
I could use exact measurement where the display is cut out.
I contacted Kathy and Jim Sawada Wood Art Toronto, Canada about putting together a wooden frame for the shigaclone. ( I don't have the patiences or tools to do much woodworking.)
I'll hopefully get a price soon. I've also asked for quantity discounts...
If anyone is interested, I'll setup a group buy for it.
I could use exact measurement where the display is cut out.
I beg to differ Peter.
My experience is the opposite.
When mounting the weak and rather resonant platform on a sturdy base I experienced a lot of ease and quietness in my cd's presenting things with more resolution and more ...uhh..."foundation"
, meaning also very good results in the bass-department. More specific advice a touch of ebony with all this "overkill" copper works as well.......giving the instruments more colour/timbre.
To avoid any voodoo reactions here, you can read stuff when you google for Mpingo ebony or Tone wood and decide for yourself if you want to explore this any further.
My point is not to disagree with Peter but more to encourage the really curious people to try everything out with this contraption..THE POTENTION is there...!!!
You beg to differ that this particular chassis sounded disappointing to me? How can you explain it?
Here you have the advantage of me conversing in english being a dutch speaking dude...hahahaha
Ofcourse you most definitely are right on your statement.......but you must admit it stays a funny phenomenon that people experience things different...
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To show what I did with copper and ebony with the results mentioned (in my situation)
I did similar things in a past, and so what; it just didn't produce results I was looking for. Don't get me wrong, I'm not discouraging people from going into extremes, but it's not easy to find successful combination of materials and structure that works really well; simple overbuilding does not guarantee success, at least not in my experience.
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That's what I tried but I still have a problem. It must come from something else so I'll just have to keep looking. Thanks anyway.