Something interesting happened here.
After the dry period of the micro gloss, I turned on my system to do some EnABL final result assessment listening. The sound, as I already described, was quite different. It was not just small details of the sound, neither subjective aspects. The sound changed completely and I was listening to a driver almost worst than its stock version. harsh high freqs, poor mid-lows and fatiguing sound.
I was very concerned about that and wondered what I did wrong. I was very careful and picky during all the cone treatment stages and I started to think that the glossing was not a good thing.
What really happened: After glossing the speakers and waiting them to dry, I've built a DIY power cord for my CD Player. I used cheap solid wire and cheap Hubble connectors. That's a simple cable and I attached to the player after I finished. While thinking what went wrong as described above, I remembered this small detail. I put back the original power cord of the CD Player and... That's it. The new power cord was the answer for all the sound changes.
I could never imagine that a power cord could affect the overall aspects of my entire system. I've been very skeptical about power cords influences in sound systems (at least in my DIYs). From now on, It will never question anything related to cables and wires. Maybe this cable gets better after a burn in process, but that's a subject to another discussion.
Now, back to the EnABL and my original cable, the sound is fantastic!! I've made some over 1 hour listening loud volume and no fatiguing sound at all , very well balanced sound and smooth high frequencies.
The stock driver was a good driver with some flaws. Now it's a very good sound reproduction driver.
Next weekend I will present them to some friends on a local DIY meeting and I'm sure they will get impressed.
thank you for all the support.
HF
After the dry period of the micro gloss, I turned on my system to do some EnABL final result assessment listening. The sound, as I already described, was quite different. It was not just small details of the sound, neither subjective aspects. The sound changed completely and I was listening to a driver almost worst than its stock version. harsh high freqs, poor mid-lows and fatiguing sound.
I was very concerned about that and wondered what I did wrong. I was very careful and picky during all the cone treatment stages and I started to think that the glossing was not a good thing.
What really happened: After glossing the speakers and waiting them to dry, I've built a DIY power cord for my CD Player. I used cheap solid wire and cheap Hubble connectors. That's a simple cable and I attached to the player after I finished. While thinking what went wrong as described above, I remembered this small detail. I put back the original power cord of the CD Player and... That's it. The new power cord was the answer for all the sound changes.
I could never imagine that a power cord could affect the overall aspects of my entire system. I've been very skeptical about power cords influences in sound systems (at least in my DIYs). From now on, It will never question anything related to cables and wires. Maybe this cable gets better after a burn in process, but that's a subject to another discussion.
Now, back to the EnABL and my original cable, the sound is fantastic!! I've made some over 1 hour listening loud volume and no fatiguing sound at all , very well balanced sound and smooth high frequencies.
The stock driver was a good driver with some flaws. Now it's a very good sound reproduction driver.
Next weekend I will present them to some friends on a local DIY meeting and I'm sure they will get impressed.
thank you for all the support.
HF
Last edited:
did you happen to "test" and hear the same degree of difference between power cords with any other speaker system in the house?
It's good to see the how to thread getting some action again. Maybe there's one to do on building power cords?
OT Of late I have not seen a lot in the area of building that I'd want to jump on. Maybe it's just me.
The AN has been of interest just because it's big. But I never play loud anyway.
Please do follow up on what others think of hearing the EnABL treatment.
OT Of late I have not seen a lot in the area of building that I'd want to jump on. Maybe it's just me.
The AN has been of interest just because it's big. But I never play loud anyway.
Please do follow up on what others think of hearing the EnABL treatment.
Hi Chris,
I never heard differences between power cords before that, but I don't think I have tested enough.
Hey Guys,
come on, what about the PVA spot? Should I do it or not?
Thanks!
HF
The answer is yes, you do want to do this. Do you have a bottle of white wood glue on your work bench? This is pure PVA and can be used. Not the tan stuff, the white only. Surround to basket attachment glue is also pure PVA and can be gotten from Parts Express in the USA.
Use a round wooden toothpick. Cut off the conical taper, flatten the barrel and use it as the applicator. Dip this end into a bubble of PVA and touch it to the paint dot at the center of the small pattern, on the center of the dome. Turn the driver upside down so the bubble will dry as a sphere. If it does not do this, add another small amount. Then after complete cure of the PVA, once it has been clear for about 4 hours, cover the hemisphere with 1 coat of 50% gloss coat.
Bud
Use a round wooden toothpick. Cut off the conical taper, flatten the barrel and use it as the applicator. Dip this end into a bubble of PVA and touch it to the paint dot at the center of the small pattern, on the center of the dome. Turn the driver upside down so the bubble will dry as a sphere. If it does not do this, add another small amount. Then after complete cure of the PVA, once it has been clear for about 4 hours, cover the hemisphere with 1 coat of 50% gloss coat.
Bud
Despite the jokes I think there is a real reason why my CD Player is so sensitive about cable changes. I have moded it a lot and removed some RFI/EMI and capacitors from the output stage.
Now, with the fonkens, as it has more resolution and is less forgiving, any small change in my system are very noticeable.
I will rollback some mods of the CD Player because now I need it more flat. With new speakers I need to re-tune my entire system.
Sometime we think that the problem is the new speaker and forget that the entire system (not only cables) was build based on the old speakers.
thanks
HF
Now, with the fonkens, as it has more resolution and is less forgiving, any small change in my system are very noticeable.
I will rollback some mods of the CD Player because now I need it more flat. With new speakers I need to re-tune my entire system.
Sometime we think that the problem is the new speaker and forget that the entire system (not only cables) was build based on the old speakers.
thanks
HF
Last edited:
I was recently shocked into making outraged squawks, upon finding out that some folks actually are applying EnABL patterns to their solid sleeve speaker and interconnect wire. Seriously!
I fear I scared them off with my bumptious response, shouting, waving of arms uselessly and the like, so I have no further info on this rare plumaged bird.
If your cables can possibly make a difference, you are going to know about it with EnABL'd drivers. Nothing hides any more. But I am just stretched all out of shape by the above notes.
Bud
I fear I scared them off with my bumptious response, shouting, waving of arms uselessly and the like, so I have no further info on this rare plumaged bird.
If your cables can possibly make a difference, you are going to know about it with EnABL'd drivers. Nothing hides any more. But I am just stretched all out of shape by the above notes.
Bud
Hey Folks,
please, pay attention.
Do not tatoo EnABL patterns in your ears!!
A little OT: About the power cord, it's just a matter of thinking in the relation between a power cord and an electric circuit. We are adding a circuit with resistors, capacitances and inductances between the indoor outlet and our equipment. It can be good, or it can be bad. But it really can affect depending on how this circuit interact with your equip. Depends on hundreds of factors. No mistery. Just science. Forget about this powerplant stuff...
thanks
HF
please, pay attention.
Do not tatoo EnABL patterns in your ears!!
A little OT: About the power cord, it's just a matter of thinking in the relation between a power cord and an electric circuit. We are adding a circuit with resistors, capacitances and inductances between the indoor outlet and our equipment. It can be good, or it can be bad. But it really can affect depending on how this circuit interact with your equip. Depends on hundreds of factors. No mistery. Just science. Forget about this powerplant stuff...
thanks
HF
Last edited:
hello,
in hot pursuit of some materials, i wonder whay product you use planet10 to color the cone and what kind of polly scale you use.
i have bought the kit, but i want to color the dots, so i guess i will need to buy another polly scale acryl in stead of the stealt flat finish; (can you give me the number of the black color: thanks)
and how do you color the cone ? i have seen some very nice pictures of it
thanks
greetz
in hot pursuit of some materials, i wonder whay product you use planet10 to color the cone and what kind of polly scale you use.
i have bought the kit, but i want to color the dots, so i guess i will need to buy another polly scale acryl in stead of the stealt flat finish; (can you give me the number of the black color: thanks)
and how do you color the cone ? i have seen some very nice pictures of it
thanks
greetz
Engine Black is F414290 (1 oz bottle, 1/2 oz bottle likely has a different number). I usually use food colour insead of water in the puzzlecoat to achieve the desired colour. Black needs other help (i use a little of the acrylic paint (that i use for finishing the basket stiffening) + some black ink)
dave
dave
thanks a lot planet10;
food color ; isn't that a bit to acid, (i think of tomato's ...) or do you try to get a ph 7 or so ? i donno, just wonders.
so are you saying that you dope your accrilic paint with ink ? cause i have the stealth version, and i want to get it a bit black, but it doesn't have to be black as night.
thanks again
food color
; isn't that a bit to acid, (i think of tomato's ...) or do you try to get a ph 7 or so ? i donno, just wonders. so are you saying that you dope your accrilic paint with ink ? cause i have the stealth version, and i want to get it a bit black, but it doesn't have to be black as night.
thanks again
No. For spots i use the appropriate colour of polyscale (or given that i have at least 25 different colours, mix pollyscale colours until i have what i need).
Ink is used in the puzzlecoat/mod podge because the black food colouring turns it a sickish dark green.
dave
if possible could someone please 'virtually' EnABL this driver for me? don't want to **** it up straight away.
the lower ring on the whizzer cone, i think would sit where that area where the dustcap was attached. i'm still slowly working on removing this glue.
thanks for your help
the lower ring on the whizzer cone, i think would sit where that area where the dustcap was attached. i'm still slowly working on removing this glue.
thanks for your help
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.