I decided to try damping the speaker frame (as suggested by Omega) so back down to Wal-Mart I went. Came home with several packages of "Feltac" polyester furniture protector strips (1"W x .5"H x 58"L).
A few hours and a whole bunch of trimming and cutting later, I ended up with what you see in the attached picture. Definitely made a difference in balancing out the sound more to my liking. The key part of the damping (IMHO) is shown as "A" in the picture. There's about a 3/8" metal groove between the speaker frame and spider that just can't be doing anything good for the sound. "B" and "C" are probably key as well. I wish I had an RTA!!!!
Here's a link to what the Horn Shoppe is doing with their latest and greatest Fostex:
Horn Shoppe 126E mods
On a side note, I have become very aware of box resonances when listening to "box" type speakers nows, including our floorstanders. I went over to a buddies last night to listed to his new 2-way mini-monitors with CSS WR125 drivers and was quite disturbed by the resonance (otherwise the speaker did some really nice things).
A few hours and a whole bunch of trimming and cutting later, I ended up with what you see in the attached picture. Definitely made a difference in balancing out the sound more to my liking. The key part of the damping (IMHO) is shown as "A" in the picture. There's about a 3/8" metal groove between the speaker frame and spider that just can't be doing anything good for the sound. "B" and "C" are probably key as well. I wish I had an RTA!!!!
Here's a link to what the Horn Shoppe is doing with their latest and greatest Fostex:
Horn Shoppe 126E mods
On a side note, I have become very aware of box resonances when listening to "box" type speakers nows, including our floorstanders. I went over to a buddies last night to listed to his new 2-way mini-monitors with CSS WR125 drivers and was quite disturbed by the resonance (otherwise the speaker did some really nice things).
Attachments
Visaton B200
Now if only those drivers were waterproof, Dave wouldn't have to worry about fitting them in the living room.
We first listened to them at my place many months earlier, and with a diagonal room placement, there wasn't enough space between the panels for me to scoot behind. (Dave - you still have those photo's?)
Tom: there's a quality to the bass response on an open baffle that's hard to describe, but the smile is easy to detect. Even the FR125/WR125's are amazing in this configuration - although sensitivity and Xmax limitations could be a problem.
Now if only those drivers were waterproof, Dave wouldn't have to worry about fitting them in the living room.
We first listened to them at my place many months earlier, and with a diagonal room placement, there wasn't enough space between the panels for me to scoot behind. (Dave - you still have those photo's?)
Tom: there's a quality to the bass response on an open baffle that's hard to describe, but the smile is easy to detect. Even the FR125/WR125's are amazing in this configuration - although sensitivity and Xmax limitations could be a problem.
I'm actually using one wire from each pair for + and the other wire from each pair for -. Sounds just the same as using the 10' lengths of standard 10ga speaker wire that I run in the living room.
They call the cone material "pearl mica P.P." so I'm not exactly sure what its made from. It feels somewhere between a treated paper and propylene.
I had thought that they might do better mounted vertically. I've actually had the fresh pieces foam core to make baffles for that set up for several months now. Just haven't come across the proper time/motivation quotient needed to get me to do the work yet.
I'm interested in trying to mod these with phase plugs. The whizzer is paper, and the dome in its center is about 3/4".
Kensai
They call the cone material "pearl mica P.P." so I'm not exactly sure what its made from. It feels somewhere between a treated paper and propylene.
I had thought that they might do better mounted vertically. I've actually had the fresh pieces foam core to make baffles for that set up for several months now. Just haven't come across the proper time/motivation quotient needed to get me to do the work yet.
I'm interested in trying to mod these with phase plugs. The whizzer is paper, and the dome in its center is about 3/4".
Kensai
I'm wondering how low these B200 OB mounted go before you get to -3db? See, I'm interested in playing with these, but I don't have the cash for any more than (2) B200 drivers. I do have a HSU Research VTF-2 sub that crosses over up to about 125hz, but I'm not sure if I'm going to leave a big hole in the spectrum trying to do this.
Assuming the these speakers will mate with the above subwoofer, would this system be able to do double duty with home theater as well at moderate levels?
Assuming the these speakers will mate with the above subwoofer, would this system be able to do double duty with home theater as well at moderate levels?
Hmmm, so then how do you determine the correct width of the baffle to tune the bass response so that is is easily crossed over to the sub? Adjusting the baffle width is a type of Baffle Step Correction (new concept to me) is it not?
How does width vs height of the baffle play out?
Wait, maybe I shouldn't be asking all these questions. I think I've just about talked myself into a pair of these
How does width vs height of the baffle play out?
Wait, maybe I shouldn't be asking all these questions. I think I've just about talked myself into a pair of these
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