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DIY Enclosures LLC - a new chassis manufacturing company in the USA.

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Hi Michael!

I just want to say that my ongoing amp fun is starving for new enclosures! Unfortunately I'm one of these black box guys so I have to wait until you make the new run.

I really hope that everything - quality, looks, price - stays the same so that it fits perfectly to my other gear.

Oh most important that I can order them at all!! I'm a bit worried wether I could order at partsconnexion at all....I think it would be great if you could continue to sell them directly!

All the best, with kind regards, Hannes
 
I placed some masking tape over the hole location on the front side, marked the location on the tape, and drilled away (using a drill press). I got a nice clean hole on the front and had to do some minor deburring on the back. I used a larger drill bit for the deburring. Of course, the wall of the hole is bare aluminum. With the LED in place, that's not too big a deal (to me, anyway). I suppose the wall could be painted to match the anodizing.

I also suppose that some cutting fluid on the drill bit might be a good idea, but it wasn't a problem to drill without it.

For mounting the LED, I plan to gorilla glue a piece of MDF onto the chassis plate behind the face plate and drill a hole sized to press fit the LED in place.

How do you plan to mount it?

Good luck!
 
I used a mill to make a bigger hole for a switch, but a drill in a drill press will work. Cover the area with masking tape, and drill from the front to the back. Some lubrication is helpful, but not required for a small hole. Just make sure you have a sharp drill.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I'm starting to wonder if there will ever be new stock. I built my gainclone in a silver 1712, info and pics here. I'd like my preamp and DAC to match, but the silver faces are sold out. :(

Cheers,
Alfred
 
Re: Drilling hole for LED

quietdragon said:
What is the best way to drill a small hole to mount an LED without damaging the finish?
Wow! Thanks for all the great answers.

I see you all recommend a mounted drill (drill press) for a great finish.

I don't currently own a bench drill. Perhaps this is a good excuse to buy one :D

I have a plastic LED holder for a 5mm, but I just had a look and fear that it is too short (about 0.125in collar). I didn't read the web site properly and didn't count on such a thick front plate.

Like hegestratos, I plan to mount my PCBs on an internal plate, and then attach the plate to the chassis base.

hegestratos, what kind of LED holder did you use? What kind of LED?

hegestratos, I saw the pictures of your great project on your web site. Did you use the rubber feet?
 
Re: Re: Drilling hole for LED

quietdragon said:
Like hegestratos, I plan to mount my PCBs on an internal plate, and then attach the plate to the chassis base.

This worked really well for me. I think I will do the same for my next projects, even though they will not have a heavy transformer mounted in the middle of the case. I will probably still use quite a thick plate to give the case some more structural integrity, and so that I can just tap thread into the mounting holes in the plate.

hegestratos, what kind of LED holder did you use? What kind of LED?

There is no LED, except for the LED in the switch. The switch is a vandal-resistant type push button. It has has nut at the back that holds it in place. I find that most LED holders are quite ugly, so I try not to use them.

hegestratos, I saw the pictures of your great project on your web site. Did you use the rubber feet?

I do use the rubber feet, but I didn't fix them to the case. So it's just resting on them. That's OK so long as I don't want to move the thing around. I might end up "mounting" them with double-sticky tape.
 
My site diyenclosures.com needs to come down since I'm not processing orders through it anymore. I still have some parts left on-hand to sell if anyone is interested. Might move to ebay or something to sell the rest. Here is what I have:

DIY-1013 - completely out of stock
DIY-1712 - completely out of stock
DIY-0908

* Black and silver chassis still available with ventilated or 2mm top panels, IEC or blank rear panels.
* For face panels, only the gold blank face panel is left, but I have black, silver, and gold preamp-style front panels left.

DIY-0610 - Black and silver chassis available with ventilated or 2mm top panels, IEC or blank rear panels. Only gold blank face panel is left.

***Since nobody seems to want the gold panels, I will sell any chassis with a gold panel for 1/2 the price, including the DIY-0908 with the gold preamp panel and knobs included.***

Here are the prices:

DIY-0908 with gold face panel, blank rear panel - $42
DIY-0908 with gold face panel, IEC rear panel including power module - $46
DIY-0908 with black or silver preamp style face panel, two knobs of your choice, blank rear panel - $115 *add IEC rear panel - $122
DIY-0908 with gold preamp style face panel and two knobs of your choice - $57 *add IEC rear panel - $61
DIY-0610 with gold face panel, blank rear panel - $35
DIY-0610 with gold face panel, IEC rear panel - $38

Should be a nice opportunity if you don't mind gold, or painting the panel another color.

Just email me and I will send you a detailed PayPal invoice. I only charge the shipping rate that USPS or UPS gives me.
-MW
 
I am unable to contact you through email due to a site restriction (newbie) :-( Although I was interested in a 1712 I think I could adapt the 0908. I wish to reserve the following:

DIY-0908 with gold face panel, IEC rear panel including power module - $46

Please contact me at diyaudio[dot]com[at]photopics[dot]com to make arrangements.

Thank you,
Jeff
 
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