Digitally controlled preamp/headphone amp

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BrianDonegan said:
Thanks!



That's all Russ.


Yes, but your kitting is first class and sets the standard here on DIY audio!

It is a LOT of work, and I hope people appreciate it.. If anyone has done a GB they know what I'm talking about.

The two of you (Brian and Russ) make an excellent team. First class design and parts.

For all others, I am ONLY a HAPPY customer; I have NO affiliation with them. I only feel it is imperative to stress the quality of thier kits.
 
Yeah, I'm still kicking myself over the time wasted getting the right mix of components as I could only order boards from them at the time, it took quite a few upgrades before I could see what had everyone so excited. In my ignorance I did not believe components made that big a diffirence at the time.

It might even have worked out cheaper buying the whole kit (had I payed for it) , thankfully a forum memeber donated most of the components to me so I could focus upgrades on proper input caps & large tranny etc...

Also I have since built a few kit PCB's from other sources, and have never seen the quality I got from these guys.
 
kestrel200 said:
It couldn't be so simple as just adding a jack and wiring it into the output path could it???

Thats pretty much it. ;) :drink:

Headphone jacks have three tabs, one for GND, Left, and Right signal, just wire the jack to the 3 pin header either directly or via the supplied(with the kit) 3 pin connector.

I drive Senn. HD600s with my Kooka daily.

Cheers!
Russ
 
How did you go with the build guide?

I think twistead pear audio products are so well done that the PCB is self explanatory. I checked every R and there were no mistakes (kook and My-ref).
I only have a few questions but I think I will trial-and-error (with my variac).
My boards are stuffed. I only wait for the transformers and completion of my DIY box (i have to build even my heatsinks here :bawling: )

If these beauties sound half as good as they look, I am lost :D
(my house has so many rooms lacking good stereo )

Enjoy :)
M
 
Its alive.

it works very well nice little project :) and great service when the PIC wasnt programmed i got a new one in the mail right away thank you..

even though i did not put the relay in yet so i have to remember to turn the powered speakers off first (event 20/20 modified amps)

the only thing is for my application it clips a bit soon. the opamp inside the PGA2311 limits the output. it is driving a +10 db line input and runs out of headroom.

It doesnt matter if the output drivers are at +- 12v since the signal is allready clipped.

i am going to do a bit of surgery and use a PGA2310 instead it should work if i just move the analog supply pins 12 and 13 to the plus and minus 12v rails instead of +- 5v? i know it has a tiny bit worse distortion figure but I can live with that

by the way you might wonder why the pot is not mounted. it is just for testing. i am going to have the pot on a remote wire in another small enclosure. by my desk. thet was the whole point of building it so i do not have audio wires running all over the place picking up noise.
 

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neutron7 said:
the only thing is for my application it clips a bit soon. the opamp inside the PGA2311 limits the output. it is driving a +10 db line input and runs out of headroom.


I had the same issue with my Proceed AVP driving my Alesis pwred speakers. I did sugury on the pwred speakers and changed the input gain. Now they work like a charm on "consumer" gear.
 
its just a bit of grounded aluminium that covers the top of the chips and signal circuit area. i dont know if it actually made any difference but it cant do any harm.

This thing is In a very electrically noisy environment with light dimmers, computers and lots of other stuff close by. so it needs all the help it can get.

it only took a couple of minutes to make. i found a tool i forgot i had
makita JS1600. lots of fun :)
 
Hi guys,

I finally found the time to build the Kookaburra! Its sounds great!

I only have a problem with my transformer. I hooked it up for 230V and between green and brown/red there is nicely 15,8V. But there is no voltage between blue brown/red. I think there is a small cut in the wired.
Is there someone who had the same problem?

I now used an old transformer to test the kookaburra, but that one is to big to build in.

Regards Bastiaan
 
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