Digitally controlled preamp/headphone amp

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2. Comparison to Cmoy, Pimeta, Mint, PPA, Millet
In reading through the Tangentsoft web pages (http://tangentsoft.net/audio/), I see there are several different designs for headphone amps. How does the Kook compare with them? Where does it fit into this line up? In your opinion, might I be better going with one of those, or do you think the Kook is closer to what I'm looking for?
I think most of the Tangentsoft headphone amplifiers use the BUF634 to drive the output, which provides greater output current to drive any headphone out there. I would think that the 45mA output current of the OPA2227 used on the kookaburra would be enough to drive any headphone as well. Keep in mind that if you are planning to change the op-amps that you make sure the op-amp you choose has high output current in order to drive your headphones.

If you are planning to use the Kookaburra for the sole purpose of a headphone amp, I would choose one of the headphone amps from Tangentsoft over it, as they are designed for that purpose. The kookaburra is designed as a preamp stage, although it will do very well at driving headphones.
3. Cigar box, heat dissipation
I've been thinking about how I would house this amp. I've looked around at different enclosures and at other people's solutions to this. My favorite so far is the use of a cigar box, such as this: http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=155049
Would there be any problems with heat dissipation with such a solution?
Excellent idea. The only heat generated by the kookaburra is from the voltage regulators, and is very little that a completely sealed box won't be a problem.
4. Parts
Ideally, I would like to order the parts for this all at once. I am planning to order the transformer as well as the Kook kit from twistedpear. In addition, I will need:
-Fuse
-Fuse holder
-1/4 inch headphone jack
-RCA connectors
-Wire
-Cigar box
-A knob or pot...??
Is there anything that I'm forgetting? Those that completed this kit, could you please chime in as to what you got and how much it cost? Can you clarify what kind of pot is necessary? I found most of the stuff I need on digi-key and mouser... but not sure if I'm selecting the right parts.
The potentiometer is included in the kit. Since the pot is not in the signal path, choice of a high quality pot is not nessisary. Any 5k single (as in not dual) pot will do. The rest of the parts you can obtain at your local radio shack / electronics supply store. I have found that my local industrial electronics supply store is considerably cheaper than radioshack. You'll need a power switch as well, and the fuse should be a 0.5Amp fast blo type.
5. DIP vs. SOIC, changing out opamps
In researching this stuff, I've been repeatedly hearing about the OPA627. I'd like to start with the standard 2227, and then maybe later try the upgrade. If I plan to do that, would I be better to get the DIP package rather than the SOIC? Can you simply unplug the 2227 and plug in the 627?
The OPA627 is a single op-amp, the kookaburra requires a dual op-amp so it cannot be used here. I have used a pre-amp that used the OPA627 (search for "Freebird") and I cannot tell the difference between that preamp and the kookaburra. If anything the kookaburra sounds better (with the OPA2227). If you were wanting to try a different op-amp, I would recommend the OPA2132 or OPA2134 and yes they can simply be swapped. If you want to test different op-amps, I would suggest buying an 8-pin DIP socket, so you don't have to resolder every time.

Good luck!
 
rotary switch???

hello all,
i've had my kookaburra board populated for some time but can't seem to figure out how to wire this thing up to input 3 sources. If possible i would also like to be able to turn it off with the same rotary switch.

i am using a lorlin 4pole 3position rotary switch, this one here.

if it matters for grounding i will be using this as a headphone amp and preamp.

thanks in advance for any info.
larry
 
jim,
as you can see from my previous post i'm not a diy wizard, however, i have some experience with some of what you are asking. here goes:

1-2. i have heard the ms1s with a pimeta and they sounded quite nice. it tightened up the bass and gave it some more heft but these phones are pretty good unamped. i have also built a millett hybrid and it is a nice match with my grados, but not as "crisp" as the pimeta. i haven't listened yet with my kookaburra so i can't make comparisons.

4. although you will have to order a few things seperately the kit makes things MUCH easier for newbies without an extensive parts bin. you will wind up spending more with the other amps you mentioned having to order large quantities of parts, different vendors, etc. I would definitely order the transformer with the kit as well. I like this for a headphone jack, you can get it from mouser or partsexpress with whatever else you choose.

5. if i ordered the kookaburra again i would go for the dip, you can socket the position and switch opamps very easily. i believe it would be possible to try the opa627 but you would need a browndog adapter and mount 2 chips (i think tangent sells these). but as others have said it sounds just as good if not better with the other, much cheaper, opamps.

6. i'm not sure if it is possible, but looking at the size and weight of the board i would opt for a mint or even a tiny cmoy amp.

good luck!
 
Wow. Thanks everyone for responding.

dB, Thanks for your detailed message. Regarding using the Kook as a headphone amp -- I do really like that I can get the whole kit and only have to purchase a few extra things. That makes things a lot easier for a beginner like me. Regarding the parts -- I forgot about the power switch -- thanks. I didn't realize that the potentiometer was in the kit, but I see it now. I will need just a standard knob though, I'm guessing. And, about the OPA627... yeah, you're right about that, I'll probably be perfectly happy with the 2227, but will get a DIP8 socket, just in case I want to try others (maybe with the Browndog adapter that giantsteps mentioned).

tilt, wow man... that looks great! What enclosure is that?

Russ, if it works well with your Senns, I'd imagine that it'll do just fine for my Grados. I've read elsewhere that the AD8620 sounds better with the Senns and the OPA2227 and OPA627 sounds better with Grados. Do you find that to be the case?

giantsteps, Also, thanks for such a detailed response. If you do get a chance to listen to the MS1s (or any other Grado) with the Kook, I'd love to hear your impressions.
although you will have to order a few things seperately the kit makes things MUCH easier for newbies without an extensive parts bin.
Exactly. I think it is so great that Brian and Russ are doing this. It creates such a nice way to get started in this hobby. I'm so excited! :)
 
fathom said:

Russ, if it works well with your Senns, I'd imagine that it'll do just fine for my Grados. I've read elsewhere that the AD8620 sounds better with the Senns and the OPA2227 and OPA627 sounds better with Grados. Do you find that to be the case?

My personal favorite for any headphone I own so far is the AD8620 hands down. :) Does not seem matter much which cans I use. The OPA2227 is no slacker though, in fact someone could probably swap them and you probably would not realize it. It realy is a good opamp. :) I think it is one of the most underrated opamps out there. Probably the best bang for the buck opamp in my opinion.

Have a lot of fun with your project whatever you do.

Cheers!
Russ
 
Construct said:



The AD8610 and other such JFET-input opamps are fairly easy to implement and swap around. However, the AD8397 is a bipolar-input opamp which, generally speaking, requires the circuit to be tailored to the opamp. With an AD8397 you will run into relatively large DC offset. Furthermore, the AD8397 tends to oscillate easily, from what I can remember.

Good opamp, from what I've heard, but not a candidate for this particular circuit.


im still gonna try it :p
some one stop me quick :)
 
Tilt, I don't have the part to test, so you will have to do this on your own. Reading the datasheet, I don't see anything that scares me much . :) I would try it only on output at first (you actually will never need that kind of current driving capability on input), and measure for DC offset and oscillation before you hook up your cans(don't make an expensive mistake).


If the chip gets warm, its oscillating. The PS is pretty well bypassed at the chips so I think it will behave.

Just be careful and let us know how it works out.

Cheers!
Russ
 
tilt said:
Is this amp capable of fully driving headphones with an impedence of 400 ohms?

Knowing the impedance is not enough, you need to know sensitivity too. I can tell you it drives my HD600s (300 ohm, 97db) just fine, capable of playing much louder than I can listen too. I don't think I personally have ever owned cans with higher impedance than that, so I cannot make direct comment, but I would not be affraid to try em out.
 
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